South Shore Marina NJ

Double post..

And Mike, looks awesome! Glad you're stoked on the success! I know a couple weeks ago you were super bummed, awesome to see you crushing it now.

When you say no push, I need to ask- compared to what? Have you had success surfing a boat or wave? I ask because I've experienced this with many people where they haven't actually learned to surf and when they don't have immediate success they feel that the wave has no push- and this is on all different boats, brands, etc. Most of the time, when you're still learning the technique, it feels as if there is no push. More often then not, the push is there, but the technique that's required to "feel" the push isn't. It just takes some time. A good starting point on the 238 is fill everything except for the bow, quick surf around 80, tab around 70, then I'll normally empty the non-surf side quickfill until the lip cleans up. If you have enough crew, skip this step and just sit them on the surf side. 11ish mph. This may not be a perfect set up or exactly to your liking, but it will undoubtedly produce a surfable wave. All in all, there is difference between the wave having push, and not being able to feel it. One has to do with the boat, the other the rider. The best thing to do is to dial in a starting point and leave it alone until you're actually surfing. When you're constantly changing set ups you end up chasing your tail and just spend all your time getting use to the new set up rather then focusing on developing proper technique.

Are you asking about buying a perfect pass set up and then adding this GPS kit? If so, just buy a perfect pass stargazer set up. It's already GPS based.

I always used speed box in our old ski boats for barefooting. Then I just installed a Precision star GPS speedo from perfect pass. Much easier then propping my phone up on the dash..

The distance between the exhaust riser and the exhaust port is irrelevant. As long as the exhaust is underwater, its the level of the highest point of the exhaust in relation to the water level outside the boat that is important. Hence the reason extra weight in the back of the boat seems to be the common denominator hear..

Well then, I'll have to challenge you to go get a tape measure and find an Ri237. He said the water was 20" over the platform. So measure 20" over the platform and tell me if you still think the manufacturer is in the wrong, lol. It's way over the rub rail and practically coming in the boat. Even if he's exaggerating or over estimating a few inches, it's still excessive. The point of high free board is to provide a safer, drier, more secure ride while the boat is weighted. It doesn't mean you should sink the back of the boat under water. And as for being within weight capacity, thats true, however, the weight still needs to be distributed. If you had ten people in the boat they likely wouldn't all be sitting on top of each other in one corner of the boat. This needs to be taken into consideration when stacking lead in the boat. The exhaust flapper is still in the thru-hull in the transom.

Well.. there's your problem. Without a doubt you're getting the water level over the level of the risers on the engine. To be honest, 20" over the swim deck is kind of insane, and on an Ri237 that's definitely over the rub rail and probably close to or over the rear storage compartment/transom seat. An engine should never rely on an exhaust flapper to prevent hydrolocking. You need to be aware of the water level in relation to the exhaust risers when putting that much extra weight in the boat. Even a flapper that's working perfectly will let some water past and if you're weighted too much, it will eventually flood the engine. You'll have to chill with the lead or atleast redistribute it. If not, you will have this issue again as this is a matter of too much weight in the rear of the boat.. If it really did hydrolock, and the boat was really weighted that deep, you can't really blame the boat on this one.

Mike if you need a commercial address with a loading dock to ship to you can have it shipped here. Should definitely save you on shipping either way. Just give me a heads up so I know when to expect it..

For what it's worth, I don't even see it posted here in the classifieds. You need to post it anywhere and everywhere. It does take a good bit of effort to sell these boats, they're pricey no matter how you slice it and a small percentage of people have 60k + to drop on a luxury item. Plus it's still a niche in the scheme of things..

In general, they do. FX22 not as much as some of the more desirable models.. How about posting a link to your ads? Maybe we can make some marketing recommendations.

Be patient, if possible. List it on only inboards as well. You'll find a buyer if you can wait it out. Part of the problem is that you can buy a brand new Supreme or other comparable boat for just a little more, and it's brand new with a 3 year warranty. Dealers struggle with this all the time.. haha. Bottom line is if you're patient you will sell if for it's market value.

What do you mean "bumping it to get all the water out" ? If you're starting it on the trailer with no water, that could very well be your problem. As soon as these things run dry the neoprene has no lubrication and builds heat and will chew them up in a hurry. It doesn't take much.

Has he considered an Ri? We have a 2016 that is absolutely perfect, 100 hours. It was my demo boat last season. I out the first 50 hours on it and sold it in late July. The customer finished the season with it and traded it in over the winter on a 237. We can probably work within that budget! http://www.boattrader.com/listing/2016-centurion-ri217-103016746

And I was just busting ya about the tab, there's a lot on these boats and easy to lose track of things until you have some time in it.. Keep us posted on how you make out.