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Showing most liked content since 09/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    No August or September Pic and Video thread...? Shame on you guys! I just whipped together an edit from my ride last week and wanted to share it with y'all! I know I've been away from here for quite some time, but I still love the Crew! Hope everyone had a great summer!
  2. 6 points
    Post up pictures of your finished boat garage!I built my 24ft boat a new detached garage when I built my new home recently. I fully insulated and installed a wall unit so I could heat/cool the space. Its done a great job, only thing I did not realize when I bought it was that the lowest heat setting is 61 degrees and there are times when it would be nice to set it too 50 degrees. But its been very efficient since I was careful to insulate well and use a LOT of spray foam and I cannot complain. Moved in Sept 2018....and FINALLY just got the garage set up like I had been planning, just need to properly organize all my tools and boat stuff now. When I designed the garage, I wanted to be able to maximize the space since the boat is roughly 27ft long on the trailer with the tongue folded and swim platform on (I use it to get into boat) and about 9.5ft wide from fender to fender on width. The garage is 32ft long X 16ft wide with 12x12 garage door (ceiling of garage is 13' tall). Since it has 2x6 walls, inside comes to basically 31ft long X 15ft wide.I wanted to be able to bring the boat home from a day on the lake, and from inside the boat, remove everything if I wanted to without having to climb in/out of the boat. Same for loading up, so I can choose what surf boards, kids toys, etc.....that we want on the lake that day without getting out. I usually remove the seats to make sure the boat dries out and I never get any mildew or wet smell....so I built 3 wood racks on the side for the seat, and 2) 4x8 metal racks that hang down from the ceiling 42". This allows me to reach all the main things for the boat by either standing on the gunnels (I installed decking on gunnels for grip), or standing on the rear walk-thru transom. Then I also added as many metal shelving units at rear that I could (have 3 installed so far) those are for tools, boat supplies, oil change equip and all the other fun stuff....and am putting a "Gladiator" wall system up to hang things like rakes, shovels and other misc. On left wall, I still have 8 of those to install which will finish filling up that wall.I got this all done while boat was at the shop over the last 2 weeks...brought her home last night and backed her in for the first time and am pretty happy with how things turned out, everything fits perfectly, tho just barely in some areas. I planned to epoxy the garage floor in the Spring and think that I will put down something (maybe a colored line in the paint), so when I back in, I know to keep my tire on the line since I only have roughly 6" on each side of wiggle room to keep boat where I want it so I still have access to walk down either side of the boat since there will still be some things on the floor. I need to install some kind of "tire stop" as well so I can keep the depth correct.
  3. 5 points
    We put together a series of videos on how to best optimize the surf wave on your Centurion boat. The videos are broken down into Wakesurfing 101, 201 and 301. Here are some details on each video: Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 101 – This video is for when you are first getting started and goes through the basics of how to create a great surf wave that anyone will be able to jump on and enjoy. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 201 – Once you have the basics down this video will help you take it to the next level. In the 201 video we show you how you can use all of the features on your Centurion boat to customize the surf wave based on the rider size, rider skill level, board they are riding on and more. If you are ready to take your wave from great to amazing this video will help you do that. Setting Up Your Wakesurf Wave 301 – In this video we go the extra step to show you how the professional riders and drivers set their boats up. This gets to a level of customization and intensity that is more than a lot of people want to get into but if you want to see how we set things up for pro riders, check this one out! We hope these videos will be helpful and that you can use them to get the most out of your boat. Happy Surfing!
  4. 5 points
    What’s up everyone, so it’s been quite a while since I first got my boat and started this old thread but I thought I would just give a little update. Ended up getting the Aviator tower and went a little crazy with the stereo among many many other projects on it haha. I will say that I am very appreciative of this site as there has been a ton of content that I researched and read through that really helped me out along the way!
  5. 4 points
    Brought the Fi home today. We did purchase it from Pat and his crew at Northwest Boat Sports in Oregon City. Very attentive hard working team. They are all ready to step up to help their customers. Ian took us for a demo to show how to set it up for wakesurfing awesomeness. Brian was great helping with the details. It has been a pleasure to do business with them. Looks like we might have light wind tomorrow so hopefully will get on the water. Picked up a new Soulcraft with the boat so ready to step up our game. All the best, Hein & Kim
  6. 4 points
    We are bringing our Fi25 home on Tuesday. I'll be happy to answer questions as we get to know it. All the best, Hein
  7. 4 points
    Been wanting to build some wall racks for my surf boards for about a year, and now that I have a dedicated boat garage I finally got around to making them. Designed it to hold 5 boards. I put together the surf board supports 2 separate nights (top 3 the first night and bottom 2 the second night). It evolved a bit the 2nd night and I am going to revise the top ones to match the bottom sets since it looks a lot cleaner and the racks did not need to be so long. First few I did at 30" long, mostly cause I bough 60" pieces of 1" PVC and just cut them in half, I did the others @ 24" and also did end differently and they turned out a lot better. Pretty simple design, used 2x4 as the base and drilled 3/4" holes into it and used a 45 degree PVC angle fitting on the 1" PVC pipe and then glued/screwed them into 2x4 to hold them in place securely. PVC is then covered in foam pipe insulation and I also put some strips of adhesive foam insulation over the face of the 2x4's to protect the boards since they rest against it due to how I did the angle. I have 13ft ceiling in the boat garage, and placed the wall rack high enough so after I back the boat into garage after surfing, I can just put the boards back into the racks from inside of the boat without having to climb in/out with them. Anyway, figured I would share the pics, I know I like looking at pics when others post DIY stuff, I have gotten a lot of ideas from seeing stuff like that. Just broke out the wet suits, supposed to be in the 20's next week, usually we ride till Thanksgiving just been raining a lot lately in this area making it kindof dreary.
  8. 3 points
    A few things here: The Fi25 and Ri257 ride almost identically in rough water - you will be VERY happy with either one. The Ri257 has a tow point above the swim platform that is ideal for tubes. You can ski from this point but from my experience, the tower is a better spot. As far as this goes, it is one of the common misconceptions I run into when talking to people about skiing. People consider it near blasphemy to talk about water skiing from the tower, but for 90% of people who ski it is actually a better tow point than a pylon. It allows recreational skiers to get up easier and reduces overall drag once they are up. The benefit of having a lower tow point really only matters if you are pulling HARD through the wake and honestly if you are pulling hard enough to justify going to a pylon you aren't going to want to ski behind a Fi25 / Ri257 anyway. To give you some background I am a tournament skier, I own a Carbon Pro boat (along with a Ri257) and spend time in a buoy course regularly. When I ski behind a Fi25 or Ri257 I am barely impacted by skiing from the tower. This point causes me some frustration because for most people skiing from the tower is not just ok, but it is actually BETTER than skiing from a pylon, but when I suggest it I get weird looks like I don't know what I'm doing haha. Jack (one of our guys here) gets the same reactions and he can run into 34 off in a course (which if you aren't familiar is REALLY good). The Ri257 ski wake isn't quite as good as the Fi25, but they are close. Out of the box the Ri257 puts out a slightly better surf wave while the Fi25 has a slightly better ski wake. They have the same running surface and the only reason for the difference is the Ri257 is slightly heavier. That said, most people wouldn't be able to tell a difference between them as far as ski wake goes. As far as stereo control goes, you can have an automatic volume adjustment installed but you can save a lot of cost and actually get better functionality by installing an app on your phone called Volumatic. It is AWESOME and a lot better than the volume controls that are set to RPM in my opinion, plus it only sets you back about $10. The Supra SE550 has some great features and is a really nice boat. There are some nice features on Supra but for me there are at least 2 BIG things you will miss out on vs. a Centurion. The most important factor that can't be overcome with modifications is the rough water ride. If you are using the boat on Tahoe the water can get ugly fast and having a boat that won't beat you up or scare you going through 5-foot waves is a must in my book. The next one is the surf wave on the Centurion is a lot better out of the box. You can get the Supra to throw out a great wave, but if you do much research you will find that pretty much everyone is running 1,000 lbs. of lead to get it to surf on the level of a stock Fi25/Ri257. If you cruise around a lot that is a problem since you can't get rid of it. The other downside that is just speculation from me is that the ski wake on the Supra wouldn't be as good. Supra boats have a very stiff wakeboard wake and from my experience, that translates to a stiff ski wake. I haven't skied behind one, but I have heard the ski wake is actually worse than a Centurion just because of the wake shape. The best thing to do if you are looking at one is taking them both for a drive, the difference will become clear very quickly. Lastly, the H6 engine will work fine for you but you probably wouldn't be disappointed with the 550 (for 2020 it will be the new LSX engine). If you cruise around a bit the added power and reduced RPM on at cruising speed is really nice. As far as reliability goes, its a bit early to tell on the LSX but thus far they have had no problems at all and should be more reliable than the XR7 (550 Supercharger) was. The main benefit is similar power but the engine is naturally aspirated so longevity and reliability should be better. It's a new engine for the boat world but it has been bulletproof in cars for a while so we anticipate really good things. If there is anything we can do to help you out on the boat decision process at all let me know. Thanks!
  9. 3 points
    Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.
  10. 3 points
    Wakedirt, in my experience, shapers don’t work well on a 226....the wave is really good listed....that being said, I went down the path of a GSA system. It’s pricy, but it’s worth the money......it does require at least 4K in ballast to throw a big wave.
  11. 3 points
    Although I didn’t build it, I get to keep my boat in it and can work on it during the winter in Vegas.
  12. 3 points
    Originally we added on to the garage to be able to keep the boat at home, only down fall was had to put tower down to put it in the garage but, could stand it back up once in. This last year we finished up the new boat garage with a board walk. This is where she will live unless a hurricane is coming.
  13. 3 points
    That’s awesome, glad I could help. Love to see these forums helping fellow boaters.
  14. 3 points
    Ride it up. Thank you Belton Brosephers
  15. 2 points
    If you are going to list it, you need the rub rail close to the water sitting still. Here is my 08 Avy. Little exaggerated, the run tail is usually just at the water level. Then here is my buddy at 6’7” surfing with his 8yo daughter. I would call up wakemakers and have them build you custom sacs that fill the locker and go up under the seats also. Have each bag it’s own reversible pump to fill and empty. It takes about 8min to fill/empty my custom sac. If you want to list it, you can. If you want to use the suck gate you can. Best of both worlds and just buying bags once. I started out with the 1100’s and then bought the custom. I bought bags twice. lol.
  16. 2 points
    Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.
  17. 2 points
    The BEST boat is the one that is paid for. I have an 07 Avy and love it. You can do everything with it. Yea, you can spend 3x as much for a new boat with all the bells and whistles, but your money may be better spent else where. Yea, I drool at the new boats, them remember mine is paid for and maintenance costs are not that much. We surf and board just fine behind our boat.
  18. 2 points
    I'm pretty sure It's the 90 amp fuse on the starter. I put the tester on the cable side and got 12v. Put the tester on the other side with the nut and got zero's. The stereo not working was throwing me off but that ended up being a 10amp fuse on the back of the deck. Picking up a fuse from the dealer tomorrow and we'll see what happens.
  19. 2 points
    We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein
  20. 2 points
    I just had a flawless week on Lake Powell with my 2014 SV233.
  21. 2 points
    One more photo of the rear view camera in use. I'm not sure the image wouldn't be better without the glare film but it's a keeper none-the-less. Driver is totally able to monitor the rider while still looking ahead. You can also see that we don't use cruise control due to the constantly varying magnitude and direction of the current in the Columbia river. GPS based speed control will absolutely not work for us. We ride by the using the tachometer. A smidge over 3600 rpm seems perfect for us. GPS speedometer can be as much as 3mph off depending on whether we are going upstream/downstream or at some angle across the flow. We were seeing 2-3 mph while floating at idle. If anyone else wants to try one then I would be honored to machine some of the brackets I used to install it. They are mounted with 3M VHB tape so should be removable with no damage the dash itself. Below are a couple photos of the bilge alarm install. The float switch is on the ground side of the alarm so just needed one wire going back. The alarm is secured under the dash with VHB and power wire goes forward from there to the positive post where the breakers are. I made an inline fuse holder with two flag style crimp terminals and stuck a 3A ATC fuse in. I ran the switch wire to the rear from the dash via the space behind the panel next to the driver (where throttle is located) until it emerged under the seats in back. Then just ran it along the back of the under seat storage towards the rear and then down into the bilge near the V-drive. Other lead from switch is grounded to the engine. I used the same wire routing for the rear view camera cable. Below. Fuse holder behind dash. Next couple photos. Buzzer is up under here: I like to keep the bilge ventilated with a box fan when the boat is in storage so moisture can dry out. I open up a seat back in front and also the fuel tank sender hatch. Flow-thru air comes out in those locations. The 18x18 furnace filter on top of the fan keeps dust from being blown in. Fan runs 24/7. All the best, Hein
  22. 2 points
    Calling all Fi23 owners! With it being such a new boat, how about we get a discussion going to share all mods, tips & tricks related to the Fi23. Here’s some of our fun mods so far to get things started. Cheers!
  23. 2 points
    I’ve been out on my 2019 Fi21 twice now. Once surfing and once wakeboarding. Water here is still 50F so we didn’t stay out too long! Surfing we just did everything full (pnp and ramfill), surf tab 70, stinger 40 and 11.8 mph. No lead yet. With 4 in the boat and 1 surfer, this wave was amazing! Not sure I need to carry the lead around all the time. Wakeboarding we went twice, once no weight, once with just ramfill full. This is the nicest, easy to balance side to side wakeboard wake that I have had (and I’ve had a 2017 G23 and a 2018 Xstar). I realy couldn’t believe how not finicky it was to balance side to side. Also very adjustable with the stinger plate from peaky to rampy. Super impressed. Our boat came with the 16x15 prop stock. We are not at elevation (about 1000’), and it performs great. Did not struggle surfing and cruising 25-28mph is a breeze, still below 4000rpm. I cannot be happier with this boat!
  24. 2 points
    Nice boat Hein! We just joined the Centurion and FI 25 family ourselves!
  25. 2 points
    Finally got the time to sit down and do a more detailed write up. Myself and a friend installed the SV version of these InfinityWave surf tabs on my 2014 Centurion SV244, we installed the tabs one evening and then I ran and finished the wiring a couple nights later on 04/13. Since the weather was crappy that weekend, my first LAKE TEST was on the evening of 04/17/2019. I can honestly say that my expectations were exceeded and after only 2-3mins, I had found the right deployment angle to make an excellent surf wave on the regular side. We only had a couple hours and myself and 2 buddies spent it surfing. I totally forgot to see what goofy wave looked like or get any pics or video without a surfer on the wave. I will do that next time out and post up more information. Initial reaction when getting the InfinityWave tab system….they look and feel very well made, its a beefy system and the finish is very nice. I love the fins on the bottom of the tabs since one thing that concerned me putting tabs on an SV244, is I knew that the factory Quicksurf tabs that were installed on the 2015/2016 models where not up to par and most owners I talked to or heard about preferred to still list the boat for the surf wave since they did not feel like the wave using the tabs had enough push/power. I believe with a deep V boat, the hull wants to direct the water outwards, not back toward the surf wave, so without the fins on the bottom of the tab which help direct the water coming off the bottom of the hull toward the surf wave, you don’t get surf wave that feels like it has power. I have Ramfill on my boat and since its important for the tabs to be up as far as possible under swim platform when retracted, the best position I found puts the actuator bracket mount behind the Ramfill tanks….so rather than run the actuator wire thru the hole in the bracket, I drilled/chamfered a hole for the wire approx. 3.5” toward the center of the boat & 3.5” higher than the bracket position so I could avoid the Ramfill tanks and get access to the wire. Actuator wire is 5/16” diameter, so I drilled a 3/8” hole (starting with smaller bit and running in reverse till well thru gelcoat), after the 3/8” hole was drilled I then got another drill bit slightly larger and ran it in reverse to chamfer the hole so I could avoid spider cracking and remove sharp edges due to wire running thru that (most people will not run into this and can run the wire thru the extra hole in the actuator bracket). Then I ran the wires thru hull and sealed the holes on both inside/outside of the hull. I then ran and zip tied all the electrical up to the bottom of the top deck along the outer perimeter and ran everything up to the drivers helm carefully concealing the wires and securing them with zip ties. For now, I am just fabricating a temp bracket to mount the switches below the steering wheel for easy access. My Ballast setup on this boat: Ramfill = 1,250 each side for total of 2500lbs. PnP bags in each rear locker at 700lbs each for total of 1400lbs. PnP bag under bow seats is 500lbs. Then I also have 500lbs of lead bags, I place 300lbs under the bow filler cushion and the other 200 lbs to the left of drivers feet on the floor against the built-in cooler. I fill the Ramfill tanks to 100% on both sides and then I DRAIN off the non-surf side Ramfill to 80% to give a slight list to boat. So basically 1250 Ramfill on surf side and 1000 Ramfill on non-surf side which gives a total of 4,650lbs of ballast. In video’s I posted links too above were taken on 04/17, total of 3 guys on boat including the surfer. Speed is 11mph and center trim tab is at 40%. PCM ZR409 engine at 800ft elevation and my rpm was at 3,150. Previously I ran the same ballast set up but used Nauticurl suck gate and with all things the same, my rpm was at 3,400, so using these InfinityWave surf tabs brought the rpm’s down for sure. Love that since its easier on the engine and I will save a little gas money to boot. Extremely happy with my purchase and wanted to post my experience since I know others are looking at these tabs and probably have similar initial hesitation like I did since these tabs are fairly new to market. Combine the performance of these tabs which I can now experience behind my boat with the great price and customer service and you have a winner!
  26. 2 points
    It's great that you are happy with your tabs. I worked hard on the design with a lot of prototypes.
  27. 2 points
    Couple pics surfing the wave yesterday evening....more pics and details to come as soon as I have time to put it all together. Also gonna get pics/video of only the wave next time to show the shape/form. If you are on the fence about getting these surf tabs from InfinityWave @Shaka, its a no brainer at the price they are selling them for. Results could not be better in my opinion and I have high expectations when it comes to anything on my boat! Honestly, I was nervous about this initially since I knew the factory QS tabs where not too great on the 2015/2016 SV models. The shape of these tabs along with the fins under them to "direct" the water coming off bottom of the boat toward the wave to give you maximm push....works perfect and it seems that the lack of fins properly directing the water flow toward the surf wave was the flaw in the factory tabs. A deep-V hull is directing the water out, not at the wave and my best guess is that was why the factory tabs did not deliver results that owners were expecting and why many of the SV owners with the factory tabs list boat instead of using the tabs. These InfinityWave surf tabs certainly addressed tho issues.
  28. 2 points
    These are the 3 final after pictures of how the new 19mm Stainless buttons look. 1st 2 pics I had the navigation lights on so the button would all light up (otherwise only the ignition button stays lite when its clicked to the "ON" position to provide power to the boat. This ignition button is the one that I have had trouble with in past with it always working. Starting late 2017, the ignition button would occasionally decide to randomly not work after I had been on lake for a while. I would shut down and then when ready to go, it would not work. Then typically about 15-20mins later, it would start working again for not apparent reason. Annoying since it would leave me stranded. I got it replaced under warranty and it worked good all last year (tho when on water I rarely turned it off), when surfer's where switching out, I would just hit "engine stop" to shut down the boat but leave ignition button active.....then when ready to go, just hit the "engine start" button. What made me decide to replace was the first time I went to start the boat this Spring, the ignition button did not want to work for about 5 mins (panic mode since ready to leave for the lake and all packed up with people waiting, lol). Luckily it ended up working, but was tired of dealing with this issue.
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    Don’t forget the loud mic..... who doesn’t love that when the lake lice come to close to your rider.
  31. 2 points
    Yes, the knob alone is $40, but you need three 2-chnl RCA cables to make it work. If these end up being long runs, quality RCAs are not cheap. if you use the Roswell 5m 6-chnl RCA, you are creeping into the $100 range. The other down side is, you are taking a single pre-amp head unit output, and cutting it in half through the switch out to each amp. Depending on the system amp goals, this can reduce output or result in high gain levels at the amps. Adding a line driver absolutely addresses this, but add another $100. At this point, you are now getting close to the price range of a WS-420SQ. Now you get master volume and a dual 4-band EQ PLUS sub level volume.
  32. 2 points
    So i bought the avalanche.. Lots of research now for getting it set up a bit better :-)
  33. 2 points
    I recently purchased a 4" seat riser from WakeBallast.com. Customer Service was impressive and delivery was very fast! (Just an FYI....they have a 15% discount code for Centurion guys, the code is "centurion-crew"). Listed price on the website is $269 with free shipping (then deduct the 15% discount). Obviously I am not affiliated with them, just impressed with everything about this seat riser and think this is gonna make an already enjoyable experience even better. I like to be aware at all times on the lake cause so many people out there that are not paying attention and have almost been run into several times over the years, so I always use my bolster so that I am looking over the windshield. Its not bad, but sitting on the bolster is not as comfortable as using the actual seat and I also thot this would make my wife happier. Considering she is willing to drive for me when we go out so I get to surf, making her happy and keeping her comfortable is a priority! Not only does the 4" seat riser raise the drivers seat to the perfect level for me without using the bolster...but a nice side perk I discovered today after installing it, is if I want to stand while driving, I can raise the bolster and while standing, comfortably lean back against the seat/bolster without the seat hitting me in the back of the knees and making it uncomfortable to stand for a while. I am attaching pics below of parts of my install as well as the finished product. The website says these 4" seat risers work for all the RI/FI models as well as 2013-2015 SV233/SV244 models with the Springfield Seat Mounts (My boat is a 2014 SV244 and has the Springfield seat mount). They also said on the FB page that this riser will fit the Supreme 238....but verify that as the website has a typo. Added bonus, this seat riser doubles as a strongbox. The front panel is keyed so you can put valuables in there and lock them up. FYI...these sell out FAST! They just got new stock in 5 days ago and have already sold 13. The website shows that there is only 1 left right now but if it shows them out of stock, Shane said to call them since sometimes they have them in stock and the website does not show it correctly. 2 things I personally did at the install. The 1st, I needed to do to complete the install....and the other was just my OCD kicking in. *I don't know if the hole pattern is slightly different on my boat compared to the new RI/FI boats, or if they are all slightly different due to these boats being handmade, but the 4 hole pre-drilled pattern at the bottom of the seat riser was a little bit off compared to the factory bolt holes, off roughly an 1/8th inch front to back....and then side to side. I just drilled the existing 4 holes at bottom of seat riser to a slightly larger diameter of 1/2" each (they came pre-driled at roughly 3/8" dia). Took me 15mins and once bolted down to the factory base, the riser was perfectly stable with zero movement. I also added a very thin piece of rubber backing between the top of the actual Seat platform that is part of the boat and the bottom of the seat riser where bolts go in.....and also at the top of the seat riser and the bottom of the metal seat base that is part of the Springfield seat mount. Not necessary, but figured it keeps the metal on the seat riser from rubbing directly on either one of them and keep it looking perfect that much longer, also figured that rubber helps to hold it down tight without any squeaks or rubs down the road. (To clarify, I added 2 - 3" wide strips at bottom/top of the seat riser). *I Included 1 picture showing the added strips of rubber, its the 6th picture attached below and you can see the grey colored strips adhered to the bottom of the metal seat base laying on the floor of boat (7th picture is close up showing the slight spacing that the padding adds between the top of the seat base and the bottom of the metal seat base). The rubber padding is only about 1/16" thick, adhesive on 1 side and a rubber "grid" pattern on the other. (Its actually sold to put on the floor of house in areas where you have a small rug and don't want it too move, sticks to the floor and the rubber helps to keep the rug in place). Something I had laying around and thot it would be useful for this install. Attaching link below as well as the pictures I took today as I installed this. https://www.wakeballast.com/centurion-boat-for-ri-and-fi-model-4-inches-seat-glove-box-riser-lift-free-shipping/
  34. 2 points
    Water resistant connectors for the speakers and the hinge point at the tower. Rough placement of the speakers before I modified the brackets for the speakers to face aft over point to the side some.
  35. 2 points
    @InfinitySurf is correct on that one. For years Centurion did things differently (essentially we sold boats at MSRP) and we had A LOT of problems. People thought that we were hosing them and it took a long time to explain why we weren't giving them a $30k discount and the other dealer was. As far as integrity goes, a dealer should acknowledge that MSRP is an over-inflated number and if they don't you shouldn't trust them, hence my statements here on this forum. For lending, it would put any boat company that actually sells boats at full MSRP at a true disadvantage as most banks are only willing to finance 90% of MSRP max not including tax, freight, prep, registration, etc. That means people would effectively need to put 30% down to even qualify and upwards of 40% to get the best rate. We aren't trying to pull a fast one on the banks by any means, but if I have a choice between having a program that favors the bank's equity position vs. getting our customers the best possible rate I will go with the best rates for our customers.
  36. 2 points
    The problem with above statement is that only informed/educated buyers think like you/us (the 1%'ers). Most people are sheep and like BoardCo said, if the "perceived discount" is way higher on a Malibu....the majority of people are not smart enough to realize that Centurion is a better boat, nor will they do the research. In their heads, the vast majority of people will think that Malibu MUST be a better boat for no other reason that its priced higher and because of the "big discount", the dealer must think they are special and they would be stupid not to get the "best boat on the market for such a great price", there is already that perception since Malibu sells the most boats due to the corporate spin and marketing gimmicks they started years ago (clearly it worked). Believe me, the banks know exactly what is going on, they are the ones who started most of these games, they HAVE to lend money to stay in business. You are not "convincing" them to do anything, they just want you to fall within the parameters that they set in place and if you do so then its all good. If it didn't work for the banks, they would change it. All they want is for their numbers to look good on their filings to their investors. Believe me, I know exactly what you are saying and where you are coming from and in many ways at the core, agree with how you feel. Just not the way the real world works anymore cause there are not enough honorable/informed people to keep an honorable business, in business. So if Centurion does not "play the game", they could easily go under for that reason alone.
  37. 2 points
    Warranty and service vary from dealer to dealer, but generally most Centurion dealers are top notch from my experience. There are exceptions for sure, but generally speaking they do a superior job to what you get from your average Malibu dealership. As far as QC goes, nobody is on par with Toyota in the marine industry and honestly, they can't be. The technology and engineering that Toyota can afford, along with production capacity will draw out patterns for issues that can be addressed more easily. It's the benefit of building hundreds of thousands of vehicles vs. hundreds of boats. With that said, the QC that goes into Centurion, Supreme and Nautique is the best in the business. There is a reason a Centurion boat has a 8-10 day build time and a Malibu is 4-5. There are multiple steps in the process that Correct Craft does that are either minimalized by other manufacturers or omitted entirely. This accounts for a lot of issues that customers are seeing with boats that are being built by companies that are more accountable to their shareholders than their customers.
  38. 2 points
    I use sewlong covers I liked the quality and fit of my boat cover they did and customer service is amazing. When I get my new board racks and contacted them they didn’t hesitate to make me covers. He gave me a few different options and I chose to send them a rack for a perfect tight fit. (They didn’t have a template for my racks) As he was working on them I asked for a swim deck cover and he already had the patern for it. Total turn around time from shipping my racks to getting everything back was only a week and a half! Big shout-out to sewlong there awesome!
  39. 2 points
    Since boats come so we’ll equipped now days there’s almost no reason for mods anymore. So I’ll keep sharing what I do to my boat since I’m not gonna spend what factory’s want for these new boats. This summer I replaced the garbage factory board racks with Samson racks and had sewlong make covers for them and a swim platform cover. They turned out amazing! Im waiting on my heater to come in and will have that installed mid November. Also ordered a couple surfinity blankets and seat heater kit for the driver and observer seats. Once everything gets installed I’ll be riding and using my boat all year!
  40. 2 points
    Boat builds in December. Ill take delivery early February then need to do the stereo instal
  41. 2 points
    We are the largest Centurion dealership in the world and haven't had a single customer of ours hydrolock a boat. I have heard it is possible to hydrolock one if you are just running stock ballast, but I imagine we would have seen it if that were the case. Every hydrolock issue I have heard of is from guys running additional weight AND having people sitting at the transom which sinks it even deeper in the water. If you aren't running additional lead you shouldn't have a problem, though I wouldn't let the boat sit for a couple hours fully ballasted. If you are running lead it's simple - just dump Ramfill or PNP at the rear before going swimming and you will be fine. Welcome to the only downside to a boat that can pack 5,000+ lbs of ballast.
  42. 2 points
    Have this boat. Ripped out the hard tanks and replaced with sacks. If you surf goofy do the Asymmetrical wakeplate mod. The SV230 is the original surf boat and still hangs with the new boats.
  43. 2 points
    Moved into my new home about a month ago and built a detached garage for my baby so she now has her own home. Most exciting part....I no longer have to fold the tower! Stays much cleaner now too being fully enclosed since before the front and back has ghetto tarps to keep out the rain, but did not keep out dust, etc. 32ft long X 16ft wide detached (also made entire roof truss system into a 12ft wide X 32ft long storage area). 14ft high ceilings with 12x12 garage door and at last minute, I decided to insulate, finish with drywall/paint....and installed a wall unit that has Heat & A/C. Got this picture yesterday when I came back from surfing. Bought a new Ram 1500 about 2 weeks ago too with 3.92 gears, 5.7 Hemi and the tow package, rated for 11,340lbs towing and 1840 payload (total 17,000 GVWR....so realistically 9k is the most you can "legally tow". Handles my SV244 with easy and is much better feeling than the Chevy I have been using for the last 2 years. Even tho the tow ratings are similar on both trucks, the Ram is more powerful and just handles better and brakes are WAY better when backing down a steeper ramp.
  44. 2 points
    I guess I can add some pictures to this thread.
  45. 2 points
    Little shout out to my slalom skiers.
  46. 2 points
    I forgot about the whole fuel game, You need to stabilize the fuel...I'll steer clear of the best stabilizer argument and you pick the brand but you need to stabilize the fuel. There are differing theory's on this as well and most of it relates to the ethanol blended fuel being hygroscopic...O.K. my spelling might be wrong but it means it wants to absorb moisture from air. Some people fill the tank because that doesn't allow room for the moisture i.e.water, others go halfway and then take a fresh shot of fuel at the start of a new season. I go with sort of the latter, On my last few runs of the year I make the trip across town and get the blue gas available at one station in my town...this is the non ethanol stuff. I run that on my last few runs and think I probably get most of the ethanol out of there, I go about halfway at the end, stabilize that and take a fresh shot at the start of the season. Fogging is another one, you cant fog down the neck like you could back in the old carb days. I have seen a few different ways to do it and I think PCM and Merc both recommend mixing up a cocktail of gas/stabil and 50-1 two stroke in an auxiliary fuel tank and running that for like 10 minutes or something...last I check I think they were still recommending this for the boats with Cats as well, but I can't imagine a cat would be loving two stroke oil. I run my boat on my freshly stabilized fuel for a bit to get everything warmed up. Then I change all my fluids etc. When I change my fuel filter I add a little elixir in the filter, then install the filter, turn the ignition on and fill the filter, start the boat and let it get nice and smokey, then kill it. My technique is not the preferred technique recommended, it's just what I do and it is not correct. Cruise the internet, there are so many theory's on fogging and storing, and so many arguments on what products to use, pick a lane and go for it...talk to your local dealer or boat shop and see what they are doing. My local shop has been on the seafoam thing for a while and having good luck so that's what I have been using. Full disclosure, I decided to not steer clear of the what product argument, I do not work for seafoam, I don't have any documents or graphs showing anything relevant to anything, I am a total backyard mechanic, I barely graduated high school, All my time in college was focused on football and I never finished my degree, So I'm really just a guy with a bunch of tools and access to google.
  47. 2 points
    Pull 6 plugs on the engine/manifold to drain. Pull heater hose on one end of engine and blow to clear hose and radiator. Remove intake strainer and dump out water Pull v drive plug Turn on ballast pumps to ensure no water between ballast pump impeller veins Open and close QF valves to ensure no water Extra pooh: top off gas tank, pour appropriate stabil oil change oil filter change replace impeller every other year quick inspection of all hoses/wires/belt/lines
  48. 1 point
    This site could use a category for keeping these older boats maintained. I just posted a similar post regarding my 2002 Elite V and a drip. Here is what i’ve found - If you have the stock bilge pump (mounted on a block of wood in the rear of the bilge area most likely under the alternator) you’ll see even if it does a perfect job it would leave 2-3” of water in the bilge. The rear brass plug gets you down another inch - but you will have still have some standing water inside. My thought is it depends on how your boat sits on the trailer at what angle. You have several hull pass-thru points - could have a thru-hull transducer, strake mounts, rudder pinion seal, or prop shaft seal leaking. By the way, I went with one of the new Whale style bilges mounted lower than stock and really like the amount of water it removes - and to a lower level. That was one of the first things I replaced, along with upgrading all of the bilge and ballast hoses. Not a bad job. Hope this helped give you some ideas.
  49. 1 point
    @BHamm I also heard that InfinityWave.net is producing/selling A-plates and double wing plates for the Centurions as well as the surf tab systems. You should check them out. Don't think the wing plates are on the website yet but you can get more info by calling them or @Shaka could give you more info on the plates they are making for your boat. https://www.infinitywave.net/?fbclid=IwAR2d7R94nv6maobCykyfexcqEkPhA7qYIH--CA42kd_Af51Iuvm-S4XNjro
  50. 1 point
    two pair 14ga to each light or a single pair 12ga for both lights would be how id do it.

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