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  1. 2 points
    On the Asymmetrical trim tab, I would worry about that down the road after the ballast is dialed. I did do the Asym plate and it was really useful for cleaning up the goofy wave and making wave length/height adjustments. Here's my Asymmetrical plate thread for anyone who is interested:
  2. 1 point
    Hey Adam, Short answer, yes. You'll also want to add sacrificial anodes to your underwater gear. see link below: https://www.piratescave.co.uk/blogs/blog/what-are-anodes-on-a-boat-used-for/#:~:text=Boat anodes are an essential,- aluminium%2C magnesium and zinc. In addition to flushing the engine, I would thoroughly clean the underwater gear and trailer after each use in salt water. You really don't need to add the fresh water line to be honest, you could do the same with a Fake-a-Lake. https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-50073761-Seasense-In-Board-Flusher/dp/B002L557KK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2SMCFYTWXYMHZ&keywords=fake+a+lake&qid=1670249412&sprefix=fake+a+lake%2Caps%2C407&sr=8-4 You probably already know, but running your boat in salt water will significantly devalue it to most potential future buyers if/when you decide to sell. I hope that helps. Best of luck!
  3. 1 point
    Nevr-Dull always worked well for me. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding-Polish-5-oz/15125758
  4. 1 point
    I have no such issues like above.. was just searching for Avalanche info and came across this thread. Much thanks to you @Dan gib for following through on these threads and posting. Finding a solution to the problem is helpful to many, even if it feels likes its on deaf ears. Kudos my man!
  5. 1 point
    Alright lets all show our Centurions. Here is my 2008 Centurion Avalanche C4 Just picked it up Friday
  6. 1 point
    Very nice ride KC! Congrats! Are some of those pics at Havasu?
  7. 1 point
    I'm not sure which latches came on your boat, but my '07 Avalanche and my '19 ZS232 both had/have these: https://www.boatoutfitters.com/surface-mount-cam-latch-black-with-chrome-handle
  8. 1 point
    Hey @jtyron and @Bigcatpt you guys were totally right. The sideswipe is LOUD... my wife was like nope love this boat but not getting it unless we get a FAE... called up the guys in Austin, 4 weeks later installed, Just dipped it in the water last night for the first cruise ! purrrrrrs like a kitten!!! Thanks for the heads up on FAE. In love with this boat!
  9. 1 point
    We had an original all yellow(!) 2004 Enzo SV230, purchased new in spring of ‘06. We loved it and had until 2014, when kids had gotten car keys and no longer wanted to hang out with Mom Dad LOL. I had the honor of being a driver for the 2008 World WakeSurf Championship, hosted here in Nashville. I was active on the “Crew”, and even ran across my Centurioncrew.com T-shirt the other day (like new!). Long story short, our sons have gotten married and returned to the area, we have other friends that appreciate lake life, so…we decided to get a boat! Bought a beautiful 2020 Vi24 maintained well by the PO. We are so stoked and so happy to be back in the Centurion family! Pics are here (hopefully): https://link.shutterfly.com/idR62Ana7rb
  10. 1 point
    @volzalum is spot on. Honestly, you'd be better off scraping that whole sprinkler valve setup as well as the aerator drain valves and installing reversible (Ballast Puppy/Johnson/Wakemaker) pumps for each ballast location.
  11. 1 point
    Your tower is a Double Up tower. Check greatlakesskipper. They might have a factory cover for a good price. I was able to get 2 covers from them for my previous boat (2007 Avalanche with Double Up).
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for the reply! Replaced the valves in the back and updated the computer and we were off to surfing! Can't thank #boardco enough for their help! Still get some ghosting but nothing like before. Still have to address the the annoying minute beep but will order a reader for that. Have you or anyone else had grounding issues with this year boat? When I flip my toggle to navigation everything turns on as if I push ignition button....not sure if that normal or not? Again thanks for the reply this boat is all new to me!
  13. 1 point
    Depends how far you want to go up under the seat, my custom starboard sac would work. You can add more to the finger if you want to go farther up under the seat.
  14. 1 point
    Also it’s a 2006 23’ typhoon but the late year model with the deeper-v hull w/o the cut outs and the c 4 wrap around seating…
  15. 1 point
    Yep. You're good to go. This is what the older hull with the cutouts looked like: https://www.riverdavesplace.com/forums/threads/2002-centurion-23-concourse-mercury-350-mag-open-bow.176722/
  16. 1 point
    does it have the rear hull cutouts in the outer corners? if so it won't surf as well as the later typhoons. they changed in '06 as far as i know but there may be some mid-year changes that i haven't heard of. if it's a continuous V in the rear, it will put out a great wave for surfing by just slamming the corner. i just upgraded to 1600lb bags on mine and the wave is awesome. another non-desirable on these is a walkthrough on the starboard side, so check if it has that. it's not an issue if you don't have any goofy riders, but might affect resale as most want the C4 model. the exhaust is referred to as "sideswipe." i converted mine to a single exhaust in the rear (link here), and Fresh Air Exhaust also offers conversion kits. most sideswipe valves have broken by now on these, and it's more expensive to replace both actuators than it would be to convert to FAE. if you don't mind the exhaust sound you could just leave it, but it gets loud at cruising speeds. i would check if there are 3 separate ballast pumps or if it's the OEM sprinkler valve system. if it's sprinklers, you'll want to add two more thru-hulls and dedicated pumps on them, otherwise your ballast fill times will be SLOW. you can do those for around $200/per, well worth it. all in all, a great surf boat with lots of room and handles chop well with the deep-v.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. Glad to hear it’s not just me and I wasn’t missing something. We had to replace the starter this weekend (which was zero fun) but afterwards the v drive light worked correctly. Maybe I was just understanding it incorrectly the first time out. Now onto gauges, stereo, and ballast pump issues. This is a great forum for help. Thanks again
  18. 1 point
    the priming thing happened with mine when i was doing my first impeller change after buying the boat. the PO didn't use it much in the 5 years he owned it so must have never changed it, and the old one wore a ring where it rides against the pump housing. i see you already installed the plate that goes between the two halves of the housing to fix the issue when you install a new impeller. call Steve Buttrick at C&S Marine Pumps. i got my impeller from him, and when i went to install it he had included a note in the box that stated this exact issue being common for the Merc motors. super good guy to work with a he was a fraction of the cost of others that i was shopping around. i bet he can talk through what it would take to get yours fixed. C & S Marine Pumps Inc 149 s Highway 97 Cantonment , Florida 32533 Cell (850) 380-1731
  19. 1 point
    Just as a follow up, I wound up buying a 2019 Ri237. Purchased from Boardco and Tyler was great to deal with. Have already put 60 hours on it down in two trips to Havasu. Wave is fantastic. Day one, struggle fest. Day two, wave looking good. Day three, four, five, six etc, wave dialed. My SV230 threw a great wave. This is similar wave but much more predictable, better in chop, better push from the back, and really everything I was hoping for. Let me know if anyone thinking about a similar switch has questions and thanks for all the help.
  20. 1 point
    Hey Jason, Yes, my understanding is that deploying the Asymmetrical plate downward will help clean up the goofy wave. I had an ‘07 Avy (similar running surface) before my current boat and I had a custom Asymmetrical plate fab’ed for it. The cleanest goofy wave I could get was with the plate deployed beyond 50%. The FAE will not only reduce CO2, but will reduce engine/exhaust noise. Some have said they can create a little bit of spray, but it’s negligible.
  21. 1 point
    As you probably already searched and found, this fault is Intake Air Temperature higher than expected (>200 deg F). Is the fault persistent after allowing some cool down time? What boat/year/model/engine are you working with? I would check the spark arrestor for any type of debris/blockage, clean the spark arrestor while I was at it, then test. If the problem persisted, replace the IAT sensor. I also found this. See page 46: http://www.wakeflot.ru/doc/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf
  22. 1 point
    It takes the Diacom software to clear it. Post in one of the Facebook groups and see if there are any members nearby that have the software and adapter to connect to the PCM engine.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks for the heads up. The actuators to switch sides definitely work. I used them all last summer and just took them off the boat. I'll put them up in the Classifieds.
  24. 1 point
    Shane, Its holding up fine, although we try and keep everything pretty clean, no shoes, etc. Yes happy with it. Way better than carpet.
  25. 1 point
    Why not consider the 8" Icon-8 over the 8" Rev-8? Volume can be controlled by the volume dial, but the larger speaker will deliver better sound quality.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Troy, just got off the phone with perfect pass and have one on the way!
  27. 1 point
    You can probably get this made by SendCutSend. They are a site that you send a cad to and they will machine whatever you like.
  28. 1 point
    To my knowledge (I had an ‘07 Avy C4) the floor plan never changed.
  29. 1 point
    they should be the same as long as you're getting C4 versus the walkthrough template. as far as alternatives, i like aquamarinedeck.com, they're cheaper and still great quality, i'm just not sure they have a template to pick off the site. worth emailing them to get a price though.
  30. 1 point
    That is not normal. Mine travels from 0 - 100 moving at every 5% increment. I actually set it to 45 at the most aggressive, and usually am about 55-60 for my normal surf style setting. My wife prefers skim so she likes it mellow like 90-100.
  31. 1 point
    Thank @jtryon and @Troy. R I got the FLY HIGH FATSAC 650 CENTER LOCKER / REAR SEAT BAG & SUPA TSUNAMI PUMP (650 LB) and it fits great.
  32. 1 point
    That's going to be hard to find. But you should be able to find the manual for your engine. Sorry.
  33. 1 point
    That's exactly what I ended up doing after a days worth of trial and error. Listing seems to help with the size of the wave more than the tabs. I dialed a starboard wave that was very surfable but was unable to produce a clean lip on the port side for my regular riders. Thanks for your input
  34. 1 point
    Hi Shane, I think this might be the one I used (now called a 650# sac: https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-rear-seat-sac.html But like @jtryon said, you just need a sac that is 10 x 26 x length from rear locker to observer seat.
  35. 1 point
    dimensions for my typhoon are 10" height, 26" width under the passenger seat, so you can start there on wakemakers' site and get whatever length you need. check here, for instance they have a 50"L x 25"W x 10"H which gives you 500lbs, or a 60" long for 610lbs, or 70" long for 710lbs.
  36. 1 point
    Those early boats had a hodgepodge of ballast system from the factory. And who knows what any of the other owners had done to it. In reality you are probably going to be scrapping a bunch of it to get you a good functioning system anyway. It would be really helpful to see what you are working with for starters. Can you take some pictures and post them here? Take pictures of your switch panel, all pumps, thru hull intakes, tanks or fat sacs, valves, etc. They we can tell you what is useful and and what is not. Then you can build the ballast system from there. The good news is the Avy throws an amazing surf wave. To give you some additional information about how the ballast system usually worked in those years. There was a single water intake either in the bottom of the boat (near the T-handle plug) or in the rear of the boat under the swim step. The water would come in to a single Jabsco pump that is set up as a non reversible pump (they can be set up as reversible). The Jabsco pump would pump water through a manifold system with 3 sprinkler valves. There were 3 switches on the dash (Port, Stbd, Center) that would activate the Jabsco pump and the corresponding sprinkler valve that would direct the water to the correct hard plastic tank. Each tank had about 250# weight capacity. Each of those hard tanks has a Mayfair aerator style pump screwed into the rear or it that is used to empty the tank. A few thoughts about this.... 1. The hard tanks are way too small to do any good in the port and stbd lockers. They will need to come out unless you are just going to tube and wakeboard. Not enough weight for surfing. 2. The center hard tank can stay and be reused. 3. The sprinkler valve manifold is the weak link in the system. It slows down everything will need to be ripped out if you want to upgrade your system to bigger fat sacs. 4. Unfortunately you will pretty much want to start from scratch to get a good system with more intakes in the hull, adding a couple Jabsco or Johnson ultra reversible pumps, 1100# sacs in the rear lockers, 480-580# sacs under the side seats, and a couple hundred pounds of lead bags for the back corner of the lockers. Lots of people can help you get a good system designed and installed if you are handy. Help us understand what your starting components are and we can go from there.
  37. 1 point
    @Bigcatpt knows his stuff when it comes to setting these boats up. His ballast build posts and insight were a big part of my ballast design/build.
  38. 1 point
    The hull is the same through all those years
  39. 1 point
    I’m also interested in this mod
  40. 1 point
    I can’t contribute much to this convo, but to second what Troy said, my dealer also told me the ZS throws a better surf wave then the FI. Could have something to do with the Fi 21/23’s 32” of draft vs 36” of the supreme and other centurions. We were sold on the style and looks of the ZS, wife and I both love it, the lower price also helps.
  41. 1 point
    Hey @newtonabbie, Me again! Haha! Unfortunately this site doesn't get near the traffic that it used to. When I first joined in the 2010 timeframe, this place was hoppin' and was such a great place to get boating and specifically Centurion information. I don't do social media, so it's my only boating outlet. So, we took a real good look at the FI23 as well in our search. I loved the upgraded tech, ramfill, fit/finish of the FI23 over the ZS232. My wife actually preferred the look of the ZS and decided she would prefer to go the ZS route even BEFORE she knew the $$ difference. Hahaha! That, and of course the cost difference, drove us toward the ZS. The size/interior space is very comparable between the 2 boats. The ZS actually sits a little taller (has higher freeboard) and as such is a little heavier/more tow weight, but its marginal (maybe 150-200 lbs). They have VERY similar running surfaces (Opti-V on the FI, Tapered-V on the ZS) and very similar weight when fully ballast loaded. They both throw a phenomenal surf wave. I never got to the point where I tested the FI, but based on the input of my local dealer, they said the ZS wave is actually a little better if you're looking at wave alone (leaving out all of the other obvious upgrades of the FI over the ZS). In reality, The running surfaces, weight, size, and surf systems are so similar on the 2 boats, I doubt most would be able to tell the difference in the waves.
  42. 1 point
    13-year-old thread brought back to life, wow! since it's bumped up, there's a great thread on this site called "winterized my black scorpion" with everything a scorpion owner needs to know on proper winterization.
  43. 1 point
    we got our RI230 and by night with the small white interior lights where dazzling my blue eyes. Directly i decided to do a small fixe. If someone has the same issue i m more than happy to share the file to 3d print those little covers. text me if you would like to have the .STL file or the G code for the 3d printer Hello everyone
  44. 1 point
    I've been a Nautique owner for the past 15 years and I decided to give Centurion a try. As such, I just bought a used 2017 RI257. I love the boat so far, as does the wife, however, it would be great to add the top side hatch to the pedestal behind the driver seat that the 2020+ RI's have. Has anyone done this to their pre-20 RI? Or at least, does anyone know if the pedestal is the same between a pre-20 and 20+ RI257? P.S. I live in the Reno/Tahoe area and would love to connect with some other Centurion owners... -Bill
  45. 1 point
    I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.
  46. 1 point
    pics of our 84 tru trac from back in the day
  47. 1 point
    what i found out this weekend is with the listed (100% rear bag 100% port side QF at 10.4) is good for skim boards, but not so good for boards like the Liquid force Fish style board. For some reason i can ride all day long with the skim style without the rope, but on the Fish i cant even let go. I think the speed is to slow for the longer board. Dont ask me why, cause i dont know but i just ordered a new surf style board should be here in the next week or so and ill update to see if that one rides better and slower or faster speeds.
  48. 1 point
    If you want more power you need to go with at least the 450. The 409 and the 343 have almost identical torque curves which is what moves a boat. Granted the 409 makes more horse power but at an RPM range that is not used in a wake boat.
  49. 1 point
    Thanks guys! We are at 7500 elevation and altitude HP loss along with a heavily weighted boat are the real issue here. I've tried swapping props but do not want to trade off top end speed for hole shot. Looking for alternatives and this one seemed pretty good.
  50. 1 point
    i know this is bringing up an old thread but have just done this on mine. had to remake the cup holder section to reposition the cup holders and to make room for the speaker. there is also a hole for the speakers cushion frame you just have to cut the vinyl, but the speaker is out there to get damaged by careless kids. in the cup holder holder area i feel is less likely to get damaged by a stray elbow or foot.
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