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  1. 2 points
    From what I have heard around here that hull with the back cut outs on the transom make it hard to get a good wave….
  2. 2 points
    Since we are back on the custom DIY ballast install topic I wanted to show a bit of what my install was about. So for a baseline my boat is a '03 Elite V Air Warrior with the factory center ballast only which uses a jabsco Water puppy to fill the hard tank under floor. My plan was to install a ballast system which would fill/empty on the move and would work equally as well for surfing as it does for wakeboarding. I wanted the majority of the ballast to be hidden but not take up ALL of my storage. The system consists of me adding 2 Launch Pad V-Drive Bags (from a previous boat, and will be upgraded to Flyhigh 750's) in the rear lockers and the Flyhigh wrap around bow bag in the front. At first I had the bow bag piggy backed onto the center ballast but that has since changed and is now on its own pump, thru-hull pickup and vents due to the slow fill and for more adjust-ability. I hoped to do like many others and keep track of every fitting, hose, clamp and pump but I have lost track after changing things here and there along the way. Parts - It started by ordering two Simer "Blue water" utility pumps from hardwareworld.com one for each Launch Pad in the rear lockers.Later I ordered one more for the bow bag. From boatownerswarehouse.com came the brass thru-hulls for the inlet/outlets, chrome thru-hulls for the vents and a number of pipe to hose adapters. From my local home depot the rest of the threaded pipe to barb hose adapters, ball valves, clamps, check valves and bulk hose was bought. Carling technologies dual throw / dual pole switches with lights were purchased on ebay. Switch covers to match my "Contura IV" factory switches were actually ordered from the dark side over at my local Mastercraft parts department. Finally the bow bag and flyhigh fittings were purchased on ebay as well. First thing was to make a rough diagram of the rear ballast setup. Here is the start to the parts for the install. First hole cut was the starboard locker vent. I put it in the factory location next to the bilge and center ballast vent. (3/4" chrome plastic 90 degree thru-hull) I replaced the factory black plastic for the chrome look thru-hulls. I cut a hole on the port side in the same location as the vents on the starboard side. Installing a chrome thru-hull. I choose to put the intake/output thru-hulls in the bottom of the boat so they were always underwater unlike the factory thru-hull on the stern. Here is the factory thru-hull for the center ballast tank. Yes I know it is VERY dirty. That has all been cleaned up. The previous owner kept the boat in the water and did not clean it very well, these pictures are from just after my purchase of it this spring. The thru-hull in the bottom on the hull were measured, mocked up, and cut just in front of the V-Drive. Again very dirty but there were some yellow marks showing my center of each hole, it was taped up and holes cut. Some silicone sealant put around the o-rings on the thru-hulls Both holes cut, thru-hulls in the holes, ball valves threaded into thru-hulls and hose attached. Under the dash I put fuses into the factory labeled holders, verified wire colors and then attached the powers and grounds from the fuse box to my switches. Wired up the switches and put them into the panel. I used 25 amp fuses as the Simer draw a higher amperage than the Johnson or Jabscos. ] The Simer Pumps are mounted in the front of the locker on the seat backs. Attached the hoses from the ball valves, and attached hoses then leading to the lower fittings on the bags. I ran the 10ft wires from the simer pumps up to the switches. Later I found the factory pump wiring in the Starboard locker tucked up under the edge so I used that and removed the extra wiring. Some of you will notice the giant rectangular holes the previous owner cut into the seat back for "bass ports" for the huge sub boxes he had in the lockers... I am building some covers to put over the pumps to protect them, and using those ports as vents with some slotted covers on the seat side. The poor boat was butchered by the audio install shop / last owner. I set the bags in the lockers, attached the vent line to the 5psi check valve (so the bags will go into a vacuum when emptying) and attached the check valve to the TOP of the bag. Here you can see how well the pumps empty out every last drop of water with the check valves shutting off the vent hose. That pretty much wrapped up the rear install. The original front install was very easy to do the piggy back as well. I removed this plug on the back of the factory center tank. Attached a matching threaded to barb adapter to the hole, and ran that hose to the front. The flyhigh bag is almost a perfect fit under the seat. Here it is on top. Here it is set under the seats empty. Here is the hose tucked up under the observers seat from the center tank. I put the hose on the port side lower flyhigh fitting because I wanted to try to be able to fill that side of the bag first seeing as how most of our riders are regular (port) riders. I forgot to take any pictures of drilling the bow bag vent thru-hull but I put it right below the starboard front tower mount just below the rub rail. I attached the vent line to the center upper fitting on the bow bag then to a check valve and then the vent thru-hull. Finally here it is full. It will pop the seat cushions up if no one is sitting in them. After all that agian I decided I didn't like the piggy back system and scrapped that idea. I put one more thru-hull in the bottom of the boat, and mounted the bow pump in the drivers foot area. From the pump I ran the hose to a Y and to both sides of the bow bag so it would empty correctly. I am VERY happy with how it works and now I just have to clean everything up and make it look pretty. I figure it puts 500# in front, 880# in the rears and whatever the factory center tank is 200-400#(?). For wakeboarding with a full crew of 6-7 it is too much weight for me to have it all full. The boat planes out, but has a hard time on the stock prop. If it is just myself and my wife it is still a bit too much but I am kind of a wimp... But for surfing with that crew of 4-6 sitting surf side, the surf side locker full, center tank full, and the bow bag full the wave is great! Just incase we have a light crew I have 4 launch pad 85# bricks to move around. So there you have it, that just ruined my whole evening putting this together...haha
  3. 1 point
    There are actually 4 of them in your boat. 2 large and 2 smaller forward. You can try calling centurion. They might be able to point you to a vendor. Otherwise, you’ll have to make them. I’d use plastic as thick as the U-channel on the floor will hold. I’d also reinforce them with U-channel aluminum on the engine side. 209-384-0255
  4. 1 point
    I haven’t heard much in terms using a wake shaper on an Enzo. My opinion is that you probably don’t need it. That Enzo hull likes to lean. Start by filling your Enzo sac on the port side, keeping the starboard empty, and running at 10.5 mph. You’ll probably end up needing more weight, but that will give you a good baseline to start from. Adding weight to the rear/under the port side seats will make the wave bigger. You can play with the speed too (I wouldn’t recommend over about 11), but if I recall correctly, 10.5 is what most of us were running with Avys/Enzos back in the day.
  5. 1 point
    Maybe something like this? https://www.cutandcouple.com/product/material-suction-and-discharge-hose/?attribute_pa_hose-i-d=4&gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoeemBhCfARIsADR2QCsnNVPBAdd86cnrf4nd568rTae4yZNneciL7hMEgsLSC9F14A-YVtsaAh5CEALw_wcB
  6. 1 point
    take a look at page 68 in this doc. https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/2016-EX343_ZR409_ZR450_XR550_XS550-Owners-Manual-min.pdf According to this, there are no block drains. only exhaust manifolds and a few hose removals.
  7. 1 point
    Honestly the holes are inside the transom they don't pass into the hull so no leak would occur so don't think I did anything but sure throw little marine sealant on or silicone if it makes ya warm and fuzzy wont hurt anything.
  8. 1 point
    Ya I also have my sub above the foot rest its a bazooka tube the big one it works well, when it goes I def planning on cutting one in I know its been done here before. My thought was just use the fiberglass as a box maybe add some poly stuffing might sounds like crap not sure could also port the box.
  9. 1 point
    People have cut a whole in that area and added a sub. However, it’s relatively thick fiberglass and not very easy to cut. I used to have a 2007 Avy, and my sub was on top of that area and worked out great there for whatever that’s worth.
  10. 1 point
    Yes, I went with the 316 stainless. The 2 1/2” was a perfect fit. I very happy with the new setup.
  11. 1 point
    Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.
  12. 1 point
    Hit up fresh air exhaust FAE. They make stainless steel muffler replacements. I just put one on my boat.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    was the IAC valve replaced? i might start there, there's a thread on it on this site showing normal symptoms, so if those were what you were experiencing prior to the no-start the IAC valve could be the culprit.
  15. 1 point
    Awesome upgrades. Great job on all the work.
  16. 1 point
    Come to think of it, I think you’re right. The change was ‘23, not ‘22. It happened late last year, but they were ‘23 models. I’m not sure what all of the charges are, the dealer should have more detail on that, but either way, the ‘21 is a legit boat. Especially if you’re getting it for $15K less than a new S220.
  17. 1 point
    Both boats are great options, and neither one needs extra weight to throw a second to none surf wave. Base on what you’ve said, assuming they’re similarly optioned, I’d go Fi23 all day. The Fi23 is a foot longer, will have better tech, and the Centurions have slightly higher grade vinyl than the Supremes. All that said, I should also note that the Fi23 was redesigned for ‘22, so the ‘21 isn’t the most recent model of the Fi if that matters to you. The ‘21 and ‘22 both have the opti-v hull.
  18. 1 point
    The 396 hrs for an 8 yr old boat that has been well maintained wouldn’t scare me away. That said, the FS44 only has 142hrs for $2k-ish more.
  19. 1 point
    It’s not possible to upgrade the valves, just look for a 2022 or newer. At lower elevation the 6.0 HO will move that boat fine. If you ride with a big crew or run lead, or plan on going up in elevation Id go ZZ6, keep in mind the ZZ6 will be the more desirable mill and better for resale down the road. 2907 prop or similar will be necessary with the 6.0.
  20. 1 point
    Hi guys, So, i installed a wetsounds rocker remote control inorder to have a physical button instead of being committed to the touch screen. What i was really hoping to be able to do is control the master volume. My main question - does the supreme 2021/2022 headunit have an auxiliary that can be plugged into? Right now i have my device installed and setup on bluetooth. The bluetooth connects to my phone and allows me to control pause/play and change songs forward or back. I cannot control the volume with this type of set up. I was hoping to connect directly through the aux and hopefully be a able to control the master volume. Worst case scenario, the current set up allows me to easily hit pause if a rider falls down and we want to back off the radio or skip a track in a playlist.
  21. 1 point
    Had to do the same thing with my 07 Avalanche. Ended up costing 6 grand, but the guy had to basically rebuild all the seats. Foam was toast all the way through. If yours aren't in the horrible shape mine were in, the upholstery shop should have an easier time replicating yours. I was the last job this guy was doing before retiring and moving - talk about a going away gift.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Hi, Has anyone installed mechanical stereo volume controls? Looking for dedicated buttons or rotating knob as I find the touch screen only volume controls less than ideal. Boat: 2021 Centurion VI22 Stereo: Centurion CHAMP Audio Package w/1 pair BLACK Pro Rev10 Wet Sounds Tower Spkrs, Integrated ICE Stereo, AM/FM USB On-Screen Controls, 8" BLACK Interior Spkrs and 12" Sub Thanks!
  24. 1 point
    Yes - devise is the BT-RS. The headunit is the supreme factory all in one unit. It controls everything. There is not a "stand alone" radio headunit on the boat. The Iphone connects to the supreme headunit and basically all music is played from the phone. On the phone itself, i can control song selection, play/pause, and skip. I can NOT control volume on the phone. The BT-RS is connected to the phone and basically allows me to do the same. Play/Pause and skip track - but no volume control. The touch screen headunit allows me to do everything. Zone control, volume control, and pause play skip tracks. I can NOT connect the BT RS straight to the headunit via bluetooth and i cannot find an aux port to physically connect to the headunit. The latter is what i was hoping for in order to control the master volume. I actually called supreme to ask and was told that these new all in one units did not have an aux option. So for now going to leave it how we have it unless there is a creative way to override it and control volume from the BT RS. Im just not much of a touch screen person, especially when under way. Its not an issue, just personal preference.
  25. 1 point
    I took it by the dealer and they immediately said the hull failed. The boats headed back to the factory.
  26. 1 point
    My local dealer didn’t have much to say besides “it’s safe to use” so I called Centurion. They acknowledged there was an issue (obviously) and said they would contact the dealer. I totally get problems can happen during manufacturing so I’m not mad about the defect. Just want it fixed…. Will update this thread as this progresses.
  27. 1 point
    Just picked this up, works quite well. I can grab my drink or put it down without taking my eyes off the lake ahead. Heavy enough it doesn’t move around even over most waves. Called the beverage bandit.
  28. 1 point
    Since you are using -4 cat's I'm assuming your talking regular and not goofy? I ask because there is a lot of talk about which way cats is supposed to work ( from the other thread the RI's use + for goofy side and - for regular side) this could be a killer thread but we should all help each other 1st by specifying what side we are talking about just to stop any confusion. If we all get on the same page with listing our setups I think we can create a good database. Boat RI 217 with 409 - 1235 prop. Lake : Deep water ( 150+) For my goofy riders im using: Center tab 50 70/0 for tabs All PNP full (timers reset for longer fill times to make sure they are full) 85-90/100 for ram fill Cat's @ 0 ( but want to test more with the + setting ) Speed 11.2-11.6 Crew- 3-4 I love the above goofy wave its steep but super smooth and long. With that said, I actually want to mess with a little less rear weight as I think I am over using the center tab to flatten the boat out. I want to test 65/75 on the ram fill with 20-30 center tab, my guess is this might equal a longer wave but slightly less steep. I don't have many regular riders but will start to keep notes.
  29. 1 point
    Usually to get a longer wave....add bow ballast, or in lieu of that, you can add some center trim tab. Weight in bow is likely better tho, that is how I get my wave longer in my SV244. You can also speed up some to make it longer, but I like 11-11.2mph, so I add bow ballast and/or trim. It will knock down the size of wave a little...but if you have 100% full in rear, you should have plenty of counter to have a high enough wave either way.
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. Is the steering wheel similarly difficult to turn when it's on the trailer? You probably need to grease your rudder or replace your steering cable, or both. You don't have power steering, it's just a cable that runs from the helm to the rudder. Someone on here has had at least temporary luck in greasing the cable by forcing grease down in the sheathing, but it's technically not a servicable part. As a rule of thumb, always leave your steering wheel turned all the way to the left when the boat is parked. That keeps the end of the cable inside the sheathing and protected from moisture in the bilge.
  31. 1 point
    Thanks in advance for reading this. I have a 97 ski centurion that I am reupholstering and I need to remove the drivers seat. It sits on a black platform just barely inches off the ground. There is a slider bar that lets you slide the seat forward and backwards while you are sitting in it. No matter where the seat is slid it is impossible to access some of the screws that bolt the platform to the boat deck. I have no clue how to remove this seat! It is driving me crazy! There must be an easy way to get this seat to slide off from the platform. It would be impossible for the factory guys to install these seats otherwise. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help is helpful.
  32. 1 point
    adding grease to the rudder helps it seal out water it will do nothing for hard steering.If the boat steering wheel does not spin with one finger when out of the water it is time for a new cable.................H
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