Chexi

I thought I would share this in case it might help someone in the future. I have a 2015 Centurion SV233. Recently, when on the water, my Bluesea 6011 battery combiner switch failed internally. This was obvious, because the turn dial became quite sloppy. This resulted in being dead in the water, that was until I took the black rectangle off its wall and moved some positive battery cables around on the switch, manually combining the starter battery with the starter cable. I looked into this after the fact, and as it turns out, the original design of this switch was under-engineered, and this same failure was quite common. The replacement switch (same part number) is made of a more robust plastic and has a retaining ring built into it to avoid this problem. You can tell whether you have a new one based on the color of the back of the switch. If it is red, you may be dead (in the water). If it is black, you're in the clear Jack. Note, the black one has tall post dividers on the back, which can make installation difficult to impossible. I just snapped some of them off (or broke pieces of them off) with a pliers to accommodate the wiring. You may want to check which one you have, and if you have an old model, buy a new one to have on hand and keep it in the boat (with your tool set). Take a photo of the wiring on your phone before you unhook anything. Also, you may want to download the schematic of the isolator/combiner and keep it in the boat. You can find it in the PDF instructions link here: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m-Series__Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_65A. If you do not have the schematic, here is the pin layout. 12 o'clock = power line to engine/starter, small dash line to small thermal breaker 3 o'clock = starter battery (to large thermal breaker), automatic bilge fuse power line, and 1 line of the combiner relay (does not matter which, it works in both directions) 6 o'clock = secondary (audio) battery and the other line of combiner relay 9 o'clock = power line to Amplifier distribution block Here it to hoping you never need this (and if you do, that you remembered your socket set and 1/2" socket.

Ken, are you planning on putting together a Centurion boat owners get together this year?

Thank you all for these recommendations. I really appreciate it and you all for taking the time to provide this guidance. My washy side wake cleans up to a degree when I am on that side, but not fully, and I am riding with no ballast other than 500 lbs of lead under the main cabin seats. I will try the center plate and if that does not work try the ramfill and the bow PNP bag next time I am out. Funny thing is I am not actually trying to make the wake bigger. For the hydrofoil, height and popwise, it's pretty good without all the ballast (although wake to wake is a bit wide on this boat compared to what I had been used to). You can actually make the wake too big for foiling... if it is taller than the distance between the wings and the board, it is a problem, because sometimes we want to cut through the wake and not jump it, and you can't do that if the board is going to crash into the wake due to it being too tall.

Note, it is not super washy, and I can get it clean on 1 side (tends to be cleaner on starboard side), but it is difficult to get a nice clean wake on both sides at the same time, even above 22 mph.

23 and faster.

Anyone have any tips on getting a clean (both wakes) wakeboard wake on an SV233? I can get it close with a few bumps on CATS, but still not perfect (this is with no ballast other than 500 lbs of lead under the side seats). I do not actually wakeboard anymore, I hydrofoil, and it would be nice to have a clean wake on both sides when foiling. It would also be nice if my touchscreen/computer was not a complete dumpster fire, but that is another matter.

Tower is ugly. Hopefully it is at least taller. Boat looks ugly too. fI23 looks way better. Maybe it was the gel design, but it looked too square. Tower is not helping. Speaker pods... ugly. As an owner of downfires, Centurion should just go back to ws rev10s.

Video the problem next time it happens and show that to your dealer. I had a hell of time with a problem that would not show itself at the dealer. Video recorded it on the lake, emailed to dealer, and dealer mechanic said, "looke like you are getting dc voltage ou tof the distributor. Change it." Did, and it worked. This was after trying to chase the problem myself for months and taking it to another dealer who could not recreate the problem, do could not diagnose it. This was on 351 gt40 super air nautique, but the principle is the same. Video the problem.

Travis, will you be on lake austin, travis, or anither lake (home lake)?

Harold, after you get your new fi23 and have a while to test it out, please let me know how it compares to an SV233 (assuming you have spent a decent amount of time on an SV233). If not, then I guess you can't. I really like my SV233, as it can put out a very good surf wave and a good wakeboard/foil wake with CATS. However, I do find the wakeboard/foil wake a bit finicky. Also, more storage is always better, but if the wake/wave is not markedly better and more consistent, I probably cannot justify the upgrade. Thanks. Scott

Saw your boat today at skidock. Considering one myself (have an sv233). Please post your impressions. I hydrofoil 50% of the time and surf the rest, so wakeboard wake is important to me. Thanks. scott

If it is just one day, you can run the boat and warm the engine up. It will stay warm for a day. -5 below freezing is nothing. If you have a heater though, that might not hold the heat in as well as the engine. If you use the 100 watt bulb thing, be sure your drop bulb is a metal cage and not plastic. a 100 watt bulb will melt a plastic one (and anything it touches like a divider). Don't ask me how I know.

Downfire is fine for in boat and surfing. Way weak for wakeboarding or foiling. Swapping out the amp for a ws syn 4 in bridge mode helped, but still pales in comparison to rev 10s.

Nice looking boat in the video for sure. However, the surf wave looks worse than my SV233, and the wakeboard wave no better. Video can be deceiving, but that surf wave is not remotely clean and not really monstrously big either. I do wish Centurion would drop the Roswell speakers and go back to Wetsounds. The difference really is material.

I took my 2015 SV233 to a hydrofoiling fly-in last weekend and received a lot of complements on the wake (running 20 - 26 mph). With CATS, I was able to get a pretty clean wake on both sides, and the riders really like the size, shape, and amount of pop for foiling. This is with no ballast, or in one case with 1 PNP at 30% to even out the wake. That was great feedback. My only issue is that I had to play with CATS a ton to keep a clean wake on both sides (even for the same rider at the same speed). Every time a rider would fall and we would have to restart, there was a good chance that I would need to make a CATS adjustment after getting the rider back up. Also, sometimes I would have to clean up the port wake, sometimes the starboard. People were not really moving around. I have a sneaking suspicion that my ramfill gates are letting water in when closed. I have the Valterra Valves. Do other people with ramfill and this hull have to adjust CATS this frequently, or does this sound like a valve issue? Another thing I noticed is that if I start off not straight and then correct, the boat will start with a list and stay on a list (even without being weighted to list). I suspect that this is either (a) the deep V hull leaning over or (b) same problem as above just compounded by starting off leaning. Thoughts?