Chexi

I thought I would share this in case it might help someone in the future. I have a 2015 Centurion SV233. Recently, when on the water, my Bluesea 6011 battery combiner switch failed internally. This was obvious, because the turn dial became quite sloppy. This resulted in being dead in the water, that was until I took the black rectangle off its wall and moved some positive battery cables around on the switch, manually combining the starter battery with the starter cable. I looked into this after the fact, and as it turns out, the original design of this switch was under-engineered, and this same failure was quite common. The replacement switch (same part number) is made of a more robust plastic and has a retaining ring built into it to avoid this problem. You can tell whether you have a new one based on the color of the back of the switch. If it is red, you may be dead (in the water). If it is black, you're in the clear Jack. Note, the black one has tall post dividers on the back, which can make installation difficult to impossible. I just snapped some of them off (or broke pieces of them off) with a pliers to accommodate the wiring. You may want to check which one you have, and if you have an old model, buy a new one to have on hand and keep it in the boat (with your tool set). Take a photo of the wiring on your phone before you unhook anything. Also, you may want to download the schematic of the isolator/combiner and keep it in the boat. You can find it in the PDF instructions link here: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m-Series__Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_65A. If you do not have the schematic, here is the pin layout. 12 o'clock = power line to engine/starter, small dash line to small thermal breaker 3 o'clock = starter battery (to large thermal breaker), automatic bilge fuse power line, and 1 line of the combiner relay (does not matter which, it works in both directions) 6 o'clock = secondary (audio) battery and the other line of combiner relay 9 o'clock = power line to Amplifier distribution block Here it to hoping you never need this (and if you do, that you remembered your socket set and 1/2" socket.

Ken, are you planning on putting together a Centurion boat owners get together this year?

Anyone have any tips on getting a clean (both wakes) wakeboard wake on an SV233? I can get it close with a few bumps on CATS, but still not perfect (this is with no ballast other than 500 lbs of lead under the side seats). I do not actually wakeboard anymore, I hydrofoil, and it would be nice to have a clean wake on both sides when foiling. It would also be nice if my touchscreen/computer was not a complete dumpster fire, but that is another matter.

Thank you all for these recommendations. I really appreciate it and you all for taking the time to provide this guidance. My washy side wake cleans up to a degree when I am on that side, but not fully, and I am riding with no ballast other than 500 lbs of lead under the main cabin seats. I will try the center plate and if that does not work try the ramfill and the bow PNP bag next time I am out. Funny thing is I am not actually trying to make the wake bigger. For the hydrofoil, height and popwise, it's pretty good without all the ballast (although wake to wake is a bit wide on this boat compared to what I had been used to). You can actually make the wake too big for foiling... if it is taller than the distance between the wings and the board, it is a problem, because sometimes we want to cut through the wake and not jump it, and you can't do that if the board is going to crash into the wake due to it being too tall.

Note, it is not super washy, and I can get it clean on 1 side (tends to be cleaner on starboard side), but it is difficult to get a nice clean wake on both sides at the same time, even above 22 mph.

23 and faster.

Tower is ugly. Hopefully it is at least taller. Boat looks ugly too. fI23 looks way better. Maybe it was the gel design, but it looked too square. Tower is not helping. Speaker pods... ugly. As an owner of downfires, Centurion should just go back to ws rev10s.

Video the problem next time it happens and show that to your dealer. I had a hell of time with a problem that would not show itself at the dealer. Video recorded it on the lake, emailed to dealer, and dealer mechanic said, "looke like you are getting dc voltage ou tof the distributor. Change it." Did, and it worked. This was after trying to chase the problem myself for months and taking it to another dealer who could not recreate the problem, do could not diagnose it. This was on 351 gt40 super air nautique, but the principle is the same. Video the problem.

Travis, will you be on lake austin, travis, or anither lake (home lake)?

Harold, after you get your new fi23 and have a while to test it out, please let me know how it compares to an SV233 (assuming you have spent a decent amount of time on an SV233). If not, then I guess you can't. I really like my SV233, as it can put out a very good surf wave and a good wakeboard/foil wake with CATS. However, I do find the wakeboard/foil wake a bit finicky. Also, more storage is always better, but if the wake/wave is not markedly better and more consistent, I probably cannot justify the upgrade. Thanks. Scott

Saw your boat today at skidock. Considering one myself (have an sv233). Please post your impressions. I hydrofoil 50% of the time and surf the rest, so wakeboard wake is important to me. Thanks. scott

If it is just one day, you can run the boat and warm the engine up. It will stay warm for a day. -5 below freezing is nothing. If you have a heater though, that might not hold the heat in as well as the engine. If you use the 100 watt bulb thing, be sure your drop bulb is a metal cage and not plastic. a 100 watt bulb will melt a plastic one (and anything it touches like a divider). Don't ask me how I know.

Downfire is fine for in boat and surfing. Way weak for wakeboarding or foiling. Swapping out the amp for a ws syn 4 in bridge mode helped, but still pales in comparison to rev 10s.

Nice looking boat in the video for sure. However, the surf wave looks worse than my SV233, and the wakeboard wave no better. Video can be deceiving, but that surf wave is not remotely clean and not really monstrously big either. I do wish Centurion would drop the Roswell speakers and go back to Wetsounds. The difference really is material.

I took my 2015 SV233 to a hydrofoiling fly-in last weekend and received a lot of complements on the wake (running 20 - 26 mph). With CATS, I was able to get a pretty clean wake on both sides, and the riders really like the size, shape, and amount of pop for foiling. This is with no ballast, or in one case with 1 PNP at 30% to even out the wake. That was great feedback. My only issue is that I had to play with CATS a ton to keep a clean wake on both sides (even for the same rider at the same speed). Every time a rider would fall and we would have to restart, there was a good chance that I would need to make a CATS adjustment after getting the rider back up. Also, sometimes I would have to clean up the port wake, sometimes the starboard. People were not really moving around. I have a sneaking suspicion that my ramfill gates are letting water in when closed. I have the Valterra Valves. Do other people with ramfill and this hull have to adjust CATS this frequently, or does this sound like a valve issue? Another thing I noticed is that if I start off not straight and then correct, the boat will start with a list and stay on a list (even without being weighted to list). I suspect that this is either (a) the deep V hull leaning over or (b) same problem as above just compounded by starting off leaning. Thoughts?

Looks a lot like mine, but black on the nose instead of charcoal metal flake, and different tower speakers. Funny, I had been wishing for this exact color scheme after buying mine (or perhaps charcoal, not metal flake), but after seeing these pictures, I am now happier with mine. Nevertheless, a very good deal.

That instagram link did not floor me. I am confident that the wave can be better. I have seen waves that good or better on sv230/240 and sv233/244s. Always tricky on video/pics, but that wave looked fairly ordinary.

I do not use my QS-pro much, but it really is not an expensive upgrade (and in my case, I got them to add it for free). I do use it a bit from time to time, but do not really need it. My wife prefers to use it when driving the boat than to listed, at least if there is a lot of boat traffic, and it certainly creates ridable waves (better than the best I could get out of my old classic super air nautique), but l agree that listed is better than QS-pro. Now, listed versus suck-gate, that one is up for debate (although on this hull, you probably still want a bit of list even with a suck gate). My experience is that using a suck gate (in my case the Mission Delta) creates a wave with too much push (at least regular). I still need to play with it more, add bow weight and increase speed in order to really assess it, but the couple of times I used it I had to basically put 100% of my weight on my back foot the entire time in order to not crash into the back of the boat. I am sure that this could be dialed in. One thing is for sure. The wave is pretty massive with a weighted SV233 and a suck gate.

Yes, and no. I have a 2015 SV233 with quicksurf pro and would agree that listing makes for a better wave. I may add a little quicksurf pro tab as well (say like 15 - 20%) on the off-side, but I am still listed. Using a straight quicksurf pro setup with exactly even weighting will not give you the best surf wave in my opinion. To the OP, what you get with an SV233 of that vintage is an incredibly tweakable wave. There are so many things you can manipulate (weight, CATS, Trim, Quicksurf Pro). However, assuming standard rotation prop, your regular side wave will be better, and the only thing you can do to get as good of a goofy side wave is to use a suck gate. That is not to say that you cannot get a good goofy side wave, because you can, but without a suck gate slapped on the side, it will not be as epic as the regular side. Also, if you are looking for a boat that can, with the push of a button, switch from regular to goofy with both waves being equally epic, the SV233 is not that boat. You can do a 1 button switch and go from a very good regular side to a rideable, but washy, goofy side, but to really clean up the goofy side would require more adjustments. You can do it by saving a profile (so two button presses, one for changing quicksurf and the second to change profiles), but it will take a little time to adjust, and some weight change will be necessary (at least it has been in my experience). If you want to bounce back and forth from regular to goofy and back, etc. while riding, there are better options. However, if you just want a boat that is fast to change for different riders, the SV233 is a very good choice. Changing things is very quick . For reference, my two sports are foiling and surfing. Foiling I use no ballast, just a bit of CATS to clean up the wake on both sides. Surfing I use quite a bit ballast, and we have regular and goofy riders. No one is complaining about the very small amount of time to change the setup (and I have no problem switching from foiling to surfing, back to foiling, back to surfing, etc.). Even going from completely listed on one side to the other takes maybe 5 minutes (half of which you can get done while the one rider is getting into the boat and drying off), and there are better setups than that that take a lot less time to switch sides (see CO Surfer's description above). This assumes that you are not running an extra sac on the seats or floor, which you do not need.

I have used these other guys a few times and been very happy. http://shop.domednumbers.com/products/centurion-registration

Is it a marine alternator that is ignition protected?

Nice long pocket.

I am guessing that rattle can is spray paint?

If you ever need/want another rider on Lake Austin, let me know. Also, if you ever want to go out on my lowly SV233, let me know. I launch at the Cuernevaca launch. Scott

Makes one wonder where those shafts are being made. Steel quality varies significantly.