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KThompson

Crew
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Posts posted by KThompson


  1. I have a 2014 Enzo bought new. My biggest and really my only complaint is customer service. If you need to get any warranty work done it’s a fight. You will have to do a lot of the work to get it done. I have tried two different dealer. Not sure if it’s the dealer by me or fineline.?!?!?  I would concern a different brand just on that alone. 


  2. 23 hours ago, InfinitySurf said:

    In 2014 I believe that even tho the 5yr warranty started, vinyl is technically 1yr full coverage, then 2nd and 3rd year they provide parts and you pay for labor if its a warranty item. Their warranty now covers everything but it has changed every few years and also depends on if you are 1st, 2nd or 3rd owner. I have found Fineline to be excellent on all warranty work that is legit. Explain what is going on, be polite and ask what they can do to help...be prepared to send detailed pictures. fyi, they may ask you to ship them a cushion to look at it for themselves too. Nicole is the person to talk to for sure.

    Hey I remembered you talking about your boat having the dimples in the vinyl. Now that I am going over my vinyl I am starting to find said dimples. Is this what your vinyl had?  Don't mind  the yellow stains,  my travel cover bleed all over my vinyl this last week. ??

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  3. Well my troubles continue. I had my boat at the shop to get some  work done. We have had a lot of rain the past few weeks. The travel cover bleed all over my vinyl. There are yellowish stains everywhere! Will centurion cover this? I am feeling very disappointed and discouraged. Let's hope they step up. 


  4. Does anyone have any tips to getting warranty work on the vinyl/interior? I have been working with my local dealer for the past month and it seems no progress is being made.  I have been told that they are waiting on centurion to get back to them. 

    My boat is a 2014 ss210. Bought a left over 14 at the end of 2015. I am definitely not impressed with how the vinyl is holding up. I bought the boat new and after 2 year of use it seems to be falling apart. The piping is ripping, the edges on the under side of the seats has wholes, the vinyl is flaking off on the back seat and drivers seat. The travel cover has left black marks on the back seat. Has anyone else had these problems? The boat is always stored in my garage with the cover on. I have about 160hrs and I am OCD about caring for my boat. 

    I am concerned about buy another centurion if the interior doesn't hold up and if centurion doesn't stand by the warranty. I thought they were all about customer service???? 

    Does anyone have any suggestions? 

     

     

     

     


  5. 1 hour ago, NW Boat Sports said:

    No, like this. Customer did this last year, didn't vibrate. This is MC we fixed last week. MC driveshafts are usually offset to the rudder on the other side! Yikes!...Note damage to strut bearings as well...

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    All I see is ????. Suck I will check it out tomorrow and post pictures if I have questions. Might have to call my insurance guy. 

    Thanks for your help 


  6. 37 minutes ago, NW Boat Sports said:

    Yes damage to the rudder can cause it to be hard to turn. Same with a bad steering cable. Prop, strut, rudder made of metal that easily bends. Shaft usually bent if the strut bends. Look at the strut from behind, move the prop until you can see the strut, you will be able to tell if its bent. It's is usually obvious or the strut will tail off to one side or the other at the end.

    So the gapping around the shaft will not be even? Am I understanding you right? 


  7. On 8/29/2017 at 0:16 AM, Silverblade said:

    Just in case any one else is looking for this info in the future the company that makes all the brass parts on the bottom of the boats (ours and many others) is called Marine Hardware. They make the famous tuneable rudder that many of us have.

     

    The are in Florida and Washington state and were able to help me out, 

    Jason

    Were they able too look up the rudder by make and model? Sounds like I will need to replace my rudder too. Any advice? 


  8. 2 minutes ago, Wylie_Tunes said:

    The hardest part about changing a rudder, is reaching the tiller arm attachments and the thru-bolt nuts if you pull the rudder box also. Its not pressed into the rudder box, but dont expect it to fall out. Just place a soft surface under just in case, or have a helper. If its bent bad, id replace complete rudder/box assembly.  

    I am guessing once I look at the top end it will all make sense?!? 


  9. 58 minutes ago, NW Boat Sports said:

    Not too difficult to remove. IIRC couple 9/16ths sockets. Depending on where your prop guard is you might have to jack the boat up away from the trailer to get the rudder out. 

    They might not sell the rudder without the port, so going to be a few hundred. Call your local Centurion dealer.

    After loosening the couple does the rudder just fall out? Is it pressed in?  Sounds easy?!?!  Is there any particularly things I need to know when removing and installing the new one? I don't wanna screw my boat up any more then I already have. 

    With out the Port??? Does the rudder come in a kit? 


  10. 20 minutes ago, Wylie_Tunes said:

    Sure looks bent based the narrower gap between the rubber and bass compared to fore and aft. 

    That was my thought. I have never looked too close at it. Just wondered if the gaping is normal? I found a few other pictures on here and the rudders appeared to be the same. But hard to tell. 

    Does anyone know the cost of a new rudder? Or how to remove them? I haven't had time to craw inside to look at the top side. 


  11. I Was in the middle of a proud daddy moment watching my little girl and should have been watching for shallow rocks. Definitely bent the prob. I was able to bent it out for the day. I will be dropping it off to the prop doc to get it fixed. While pulling  the prop I noticed that the spacing on the front and back of the rudder were different.

    I was able to threw the boat in reverse and kill the motor before catching the rock.I know I was going less then 10mph. I am thinking around 5ish. 

    There does not appear or feel that there is any rubbing. It appears that there is not any damage or rub marks on the rubber. When the rubber moves the spacing stays the same.

    The only thing I noticed is that when turning to the left it gets hard towards the end of the rotation. Possible just from the bent prop? 

    I will get the prop fixed and do a water test. 

    What are your thoughts? Bent or not bent. 

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  12. I have thought about going with lead but there is a few times I have a full crew and it seems that it would be a pain to load and unload the bags. 

    Do most guys leave the lead in the boat and just forget about it?

    I was planning on trying to put a 600lbs in the bow.  With a bag you can adjust the lbs as needed.  With lead once you are on the lake there is no adjusting. 

    How do most guys do it? 

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