h2ohangtime

This was an issue with our Typhoon when we picked it up last year. The water line to the PSS had come undone and was just dumping water into the bilge.

Hey Crew...likely a dumb question here, but better safe than sorry. I'm doing some spring maintenance on my '07 Typhoon w/330 Black Scorpion. Is changing the fuel/water separator simply a matter of unscrewing the old one, refilling the new one with fresh fuel and spinning it back on? For the inline fuel filter, do I just pull the lines off the barbs on each end, swap the barb fittings to the new filter, and put it back in? Any other pearls of wisdom here? I want to make sure that nothing is under pressure or could cause a big problem--my old boat needed to be depressurized before working on the fuel system (Nautique FCC). Thanks!

That makes sense to me. Probably best to go with the open way first and then close it up if that doesn't work out. Thank you!

Thanks! Anything that would preclude one from just filling the void with foam, trimming it flush, and then re-glassing with several layers of mat?

Anyone have pics of this project on an Avy/Typhoon? Is it as simple as cutting along the planes of the floor and starboard hull, re-glassing with several layers of mat and resin, then re-carpeting?

Foot REST, but I think you got it. Thanks!

After exhaustive search here and on WW among others, I still haven’t found a clear answer as to whether or not I can cut out the molded-in footwear under the helm of my ‘07 Typhoon C4. I’m trying to build a system with 4 JL MX650’s, a ported JL 10W3, and a JL M1000/5 or Alpine PDXv9. Problem is that I can’t find a good way to install the box without getting rid of that footrest/hump under the helm. Is it structural? Just cosmetic/meant for a factory IB sub only? Has anyone cut it out and had good results? Any pics?

Yup, picked her up Sunday. Trailer brakes needed some work, so it's in the shop for that, but we'll be at the lake this weekend.

Here you go--this one should show it pretty well:

Thanks Dan! Do you have any problems getting the wake shaper to hold? It looks like the lip on the side goes a lot closer to the transom than on the Avy--I was thinking of going with the same setup you have if my 750's don't get the wave big enough. Do you list it at all or is the weight balanced 50/50 in the rear?

Right on, thanks again. Since this one is an original-owner boat and it's been maintained at the same place since they bought it, I'm more hopeful that this won't fall through like the last Avy I was looking at. Inspection this week and then we'll go from there.

Thanks Troy--I'm regular, but may have the occasional goofy rider. I was thinking about upgrading the wake plate to the Bennett eventually, but not right out of the gate. I would assume I could couple the A-plate with the Bennett actuators? I was specifically looking for the Tribal Tower because of how low it folds and the associated head room that you talk about. Thanks also for the note on the platform brackets--I'll keep apprised of that.

Troy, the steps and the cutouts are two different things that seem to confuse people. This version of the Typhoon doesn’t have the big cutouts at the transom like the older ones, but its hull has steps that run port to starboard around the halfway point of the length. My understanding is that a lot of bigger boats had that design to increase efficiency and minimize drag—I just don’t understand why the Typhoon was the only one of the Centurion line to incorporate them. Here are pics of the transom and the hull steps.

Hi there Crew, I’m about to pull the trigger (fingers crossed) on an original owner, nicely maintained 2007 Typhoon C4. We will be using it about 50 surf/25 wakeboard/25 tube until the kids get bigger and the tubing goes away. I know the Typhoon has the stepped hull, but everything I’ve read here and on WW states that the surf wave is about the same as an Avalanche. Does anyone know what the design goal was behind the steps? Please let me know if you have any thoughts on this boat. Is there any reason I wouldn’t be able to get a good wave out of this, assuming we start off with 750’s in the rear and a wake shaper/suck gate? Thanks!

Hi Crew, I'm looking at a 2006 Avy that has a bit of gel coat cracking going on. It's around the nav light plug (which I've seen on multiple boats, pretty common) and some smaller ones along the top cap, above the rub rail. Given the pics, would you consider this a deal breaker, or something that's ok to purchase with the understanding it needs to be fixed? What's a ballpark figure for a good fiberglass shop to fix these? Thanks! https://www.dropbox.com/s/bqyo61d81uskuch/IMG_0418.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/gcaafid4by8mqxw/IMG_0419.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/98gzowh5944siui/IMG_0420.JPG?dl=0