h2ohangtime

Interesting--mine go all the way through to the rear lockers. I'll throw some silicone on them just to be safe. Thanks!

Hey @Dan gib @Avy06: One last question--when you reattached the new transom plates, how did you seal the holes? Just use silicone on the back of the plate, or did you put some on the bolt threads as well? Seems like sealing the bolt threads might be overkill, but it IS below the waterline in a lot of cases. Thanks!

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

Is it possible/common for a grenaded impeller to warp the housing? Boat is a 2007 Typhoon with the 5.7 Black Scorpion. Impeller shredded on the trailer during spring cleaning and setup—no problem, I thought. Cleaned out the housing (have all 8 splines) and found no debris in the transmission cooler or anywhere else downstream. Backflushed everything I could. Installed new impeller and upgraded plastic pump housing cover with the wear plate. Also R&R’d the thermostat while I was at it. The issue is that the impeller is not priming/pumping water. With the engine running and water flowing into the pump (installed T and hose fitting in the output of the V-drive), there’s no water reaching the transmission cooler. This tells me it’s one of two things: an ill-fitting impeller the pump housing was warped when the original impeller shredded Is there anything else I should be checking? I DO get a lot of water flowing out the thru-hull intake as it goes backwards through the v-drive, but the pump still wasn’t drawing water when in the lake, either. I have NOT tried to rev the engine to get the pump to prime, but maybe that’s the next test? I certainly don’t want to overheat again. I’m at my wits' end trying to figure this out and get us on the water. Appreciate any other ideas you have. *** Cross-posted @ Wakeworld ***

Is it possible/common for a grenaded impeller to warp the housing? Boat is a 2007 Typhoon with the 5.7 Black Scorpion. Impeller shredded on the trailer during spring cleaning and setup—no problem, I thought. Cleaned out the housing (have all 8 splines) and found no debris in the transmission cooler or anywhere else downstream. Backflushed everything I could. Installed new impeller and upgraded plastic pump housing cover with the wear plate. Also R&R’d the thermostat while I was at it. The issue is that the impeller is not priming/pumping water. With the engine running and water flowing into the pump (installed T and hose fitting in the output of the V-drive), there’s no water reaching the transmission cooler. This tells me it’s one of two things: an ill-fitting impeller the pump housing was warped when the original impeller shredded Is there anything else I should be checking? I DO get a lot of water flowing out the thru-hull intake as it goes backwards through the v-drive, but the pump still wasn’t drawing water when in the lake, either. I have NOT tried to rev the engine to get the pump to prime, but maybe that’s the next test? I certainly don’t want to overheat again. I’m at my wits' end trying to figure this out and get us on the water. Appreciate any other ideas you have. *** Cross-posted @ Wakeworld ***

Jake, I know it's a little late now, but I'm in the market for a cover too and Westland exact-fit was a no-go for me mainly because I (and probably you too) have a Kal Kustom boat where the tower was installed there instead of at the Centurion factory. Given that, they couldn't guarantee the fit for the tower cutouts and I didn't want to spend $900 to find out. Hopefully yours fits just fine, but thought I'd throw that out there.

I won't give exact numbers but for retail, I think what they're asking is pretty well in line. If you can get out of there for $36-37k, you're getting a pretty decent deal.

We bought our '07 Typhoon just about a year ago this week. If surfing is your priority, you won't be disappointed as long as you have some additional ballast to throw in it. I took out the hard tanks and replaced them with 750's, but I'm thinking of upgrading to 1000's eventually and putting some additional weight further forward to extend the pocket a bit. We surf with even weight (both rear 750's and the 250-ish center tank full) and we also use a homemade shaper/suck-gate that cleans the wave up pretty well. Wave height is about hip-to-waist-high (I'm 6'0") depending on how many people are in the boat and has good push. Going from an '02 Super Air Nautique to the Typhoon, I'm not impressed with the wakeboard wake on the Typhoon, but I guess that's a matter of comparison. There are several things I want to upgrade, starting with the crappy ballast pump system. Eventually, I'll have a fill pump for each bag, but for now it uses the stock single fill pump/sprinkler valve manifold and multiple empty pumps. To clarify what was mentioned above, the 2007 has a STEPPED hull (fore to aft, around the middle of the hull), but it doesn't have the transom cutouts of the previous Concourse era. The transom cutouts are what you want to avoid. Good luck with your search/purchase.

This was an issue with our Typhoon when we picked it up last year. The water line to the PSS had come undone and was just dumping water into the bilge.

Hey Crew...likely a dumb question here, but better safe than sorry. I'm doing some spring maintenance on my '07 Typhoon w/330 Black Scorpion. Is changing the fuel/water separator simply a matter of unscrewing the old one, refilling the new one with fresh fuel and spinning it back on? For the inline fuel filter, do I just pull the lines off the barbs on each end, swap the barb fittings to the new filter, and put it back in? Any other pearls of wisdom here? I want to make sure that nothing is under pressure or could cause a big problem--my old boat needed to be depressurized before working on the fuel system (Nautique FCC). Thanks!

That makes sense to me. Probably best to go with the open way first and then close it up if that doesn't work out. Thank you!

Thanks! Anything that would preclude one from just filling the void with foam, trimming it flush, and then re-glassing with several layers of mat?

Anyone have pics of this project on an Avy/Typhoon? Is it as simple as cutting along the planes of the floor and starboard hull, re-glassing with several layers of mat and resin, then re-carpeting?

Foot REST, but I think you got it. Thanks!

After exhaustive search here and on WW among others, I still haven’t found a clear answer as to whether or not I can cut out the molded-in footwear under the helm of my ‘07 Typhoon C4. I’m trying to build a system with 4 JL MX650’s, a ported JL 10W3, and a JL M1000/5 or Alpine PDXv9. Problem is that I can’t find a good way to install the box without getting rid of that footrest/hump under the helm. Is it structural? Just cosmetic/meant for a factory IB sub only? Has anyone cut it out and had good results? Any pics?