h2ohangtime

Interesting--mine go all the way through to the rear lockers. I'll throw some silicone on them just to be safe. Thanks!

Hey @Dan gib @Avy06: One last question--when you reattached the new transom plates, how did you seal the holes? Just use silicone on the back of the plate, or did you put some on the bolt threads as well? Seems like sealing the bolt threads might be overkill, but it IS below the waterline in a lot of cases. Thanks!

Hey @Avy06: how is this working for you so far? Our platform bracket busted on Monday, so I'm about to pull the trigger on the Alloy Marine ones for our 2007 Typhoon. Did the new 2-1/2" bolts work well with the thicker transom plate, or did you need something longer? I'm assuming you went with the 316 stainless instead of 18-8, but if you have any more details to share, it would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there Crew, I’m about to pull the trigger (fingers crossed) on an original owner, nicely maintained 2007 Typhoon C4. We will be using it about 50 surf/25 wakeboard/25 tube until the kids get bigger and the tubing goes away. I know the Typhoon has the stepped hull, but everything I’ve read here and on WW states that the surf wave is about the same as an Avalanche. Does anyone know what the design goal was behind the steps? Please let me know if you have any thoughts on this boat. Is there any reason I wouldn’t be able to get a good wave out of this, assuming we start off with 750’s in the rear and a wake shaper/suck gate? Thanks!

Is it possible/common for a grenaded impeller to warp the housing? Boat is a 2007 Typhoon with the 5.7 Black Scorpion. Impeller shredded on the trailer during spring cleaning and setup—no problem, I thought. Cleaned out the housing (have all 8 splines) and found no debris in the transmission cooler or anywhere else downstream. Backflushed everything I could. Installed new impeller and upgraded plastic pump housing cover with the wear plate. Also R&R’d the thermostat while I was at it. The issue is that the impeller is not priming/pumping water. With the engine running and water flowing into the pump (installed T and hose fitting in the output of the V-drive), there’s no water reaching the transmission cooler. This tells me it’s one of two things: an ill-fitting impeller the pump housing was warped when the original impeller shredded Is there anything else I should be checking? I DO get a lot of water flowing out the thru-hull intake as it goes backwards through the v-drive, but the pump still wasn’t drawing water when in the lake, either. I have NOT tried to rev the engine to get the pump to prime, but maybe that’s the next test? I certainly don’t want to overheat again. I’m at my wits' end trying to figure this out and get us on the water. Appreciate any other ideas you have. *** Cross-posted @ Wakeworld ***

Is it possible/common for a grenaded impeller to warp the housing? Boat is a 2007 Typhoon with the 5.7 Black Scorpion. Impeller shredded on the trailer during spring cleaning and setup—no problem, I thought. Cleaned out the housing (have all 8 splines) and found no debris in the transmission cooler or anywhere else downstream. Backflushed everything I could. Installed new impeller and upgraded plastic pump housing cover with the wear plate. Also R&R’d the thermostat while I was at it. The issue is that the impeller is not priming/pumping water. With the engine running and water flowing into the pump (installed T and hose fitting in the output of the V-drive), there’s no water reaching the transmission cooler. This tells me it’s one of two things: an ill-fitting impeller the pump housing was warped when the original impeller shredded Is there anything else I should be checking? I DO get a lot of water flowing out the thru-hull intake as it goes backwards through the v-drive, but the pump still wasn’t drawing water when in the lake, either. I have NOT tried to rev the engine to get the pump to prime, but maybe that’s the next test? I certainly don’t want to overheat again. I’m at my wits' end trying to figure this out and get us on the water. Appreciate any other ideas you have. *** Cross-posted @ Wakeworld ***

After exhaustive search here and on WW among others, I still haven’t found a clear answer as to whether or not I can cut out the molded-in footwear under the helm of my ‘07 Typhoon C4. I’m trying to build a system with 4 JL MX650’s, a ported JL 10W3, and a JL M1000/5 or Alpine PDXv9. Problem is that I can’t find a good way to install the box without getting rid of that footrest/hump under the helm. Is it structural? Just cosmetic/meant for a factory IB sub only? Has anyone cut it out and had good results? Any pics?

Jake, I know it's a little late now, but I'm in the market for a cover too and Westland exact-fit was a no-go for me mainly because I (and probably you too) have a Kal Kustom boat where the tower was installed there instead of at the Centurion factory. Given that, they couldn't guarantee the fit for the tower cutouts and I didn't want to spend $900 to find out. Hopefully yours fits just fine, but thought I'd throw that out there.

I won't give exact numbers but for retail, I think what they're asking is pretty well in line. If you can get out of there for $36-37k, you're getting a pretty decent deal.

We bought our '07 Typhoon just about a year ago this week. If surfing is your priority, you won't be disappointed as long as you have some additional ballast to throw in it. I took out the hard tanks and replaced them with 750's, but I'm thinking of upgrading to 1000's eventually and putting some additional weight further forward to extend the pocket a bit. We surf with even weight (both rear 750's and the 250-ish center tank full) and we also use a homemade shaper/suck-gate that cleans the wave up pretty well. Wave height is about hip-to-waist-high (I'm 6'0") depending on how many people are in the boat and has good push. Going from an '02 Super Air Nautique to the Typhoon, I'm not impressed with the wakeboard wake on the Typhoon, but I guess that's a matter of comparison. There are several things I want to upgrade, starting with the crappy ballast pump system. Eventually, I'll have a fill pump for each bag, but for now it uses the stock single fill pump/sprinkler valve manifold and multiple empty pumps. To clarify what was mentioned above, the 2007 has a STEPPED hull (fore to aft, around the middle of the hull), but it doesn't have the transom cutouts of the previous Concourse era. The transom cutouts are what you want to avoid. Good luck with your search/purchase.

Hey Crew...likely a dumb question here, but better safe than sorry. I'm doing some spring maintenance on my '07 Typhoon w/330 Black Scorpion. Is changing the fuel/water separator simply a matter of unscrewing the old one, refilling the new one with fresh fuel and spinning it back on? For the inline fuel filter, do I just pull the lines off the barbs on each end, swap the barb fittings to the new filter, and put it back in? Any other pearls of wisdom here? I want to make sure that nothing is under pressure or could cause a big problem--my old boat needed to be depressurized before working on the fuel system (Nautique FCC). Thanks!

This was an issue with our Typhoon when we picked it up last year. The water line to the PSS had come undone and was just dumping water into the bilge.

That makes sense to me. Probably best to go with the open way first and then close it up if that doesn't work out. Thank you!

Thanks! Anything that would preclude one from just filling the void with foam, trimming it flush, and then re-glassing with several layers of mat?

Anyone have pics of this project on an Avy/Typhoon? Is it as simple as cutting along the planes of the floor and starboard hull, re-glassing with several layers of mat and resin, then re-carpeting?

Foot REST, but I think you got it. Thanks!

Yup, picked her up Sunday. Trailer brakes needed some work, so it's in the shop for that, but we'll be at the lake this weekend.

Here you go--this one should show it pretty well:

Thanks Dan! Do you have any problems getting the wake shaper to hold? It looks like the lip on the side goes a lot closer to the transom than on the Avy--I was thinking of going with the same setup you have if my 750's don't get the wave big enough. Do you list it at all or is the weight balanced 50/50 in the rear?

Right on, thanks again. Since this one is an original-owner boat and it's been maintained at the same place since they bought it, I'm more hopeful that this won't fall through like the last Avy I was looking at. Inspection this week and then we'll go from there.

Thanks Troy--I'm regular, but may have the occasional goofy rider. I was thinking about upgrading the wake plate to the Bennett eventually, but not right out of the gate. I would assume I could couple the A-plate with the Bennett actuators? I was specifically looking for the Tribal Tower because of how low it folds and the associated head room that you talk about. Thanks also for the note on the platform brackets--I'll keep apprised of that.

Troy, the steps and the cutouts are two different things that seem to confuse people. This version of the Typhoon doesn’t have the big cutouts at the transom like the older ones, but its hull has steps that run port to starboard around the halfway point of the length. My understanding is that a lot of bigger boats had that design to increase efficiency and minimize drag—I just don’t understand why the Typhoon was the only one of the Centurion line to incorporate them. Here are pics of the transom and the hull steps.

Hi Crew, I'm looking at a 2006 Avy that has a bit of gel coat cracking going on. It's around the nav light plug (which I've seen on multiple boats, pretty common) and some smaller ones along the top cap, above the rub rail. Given the pics, would you consider this a deal breaker, or something that's ok to purchase with the understanding it needs to be fixed? What's a ballpark figure for a good fiberglass shop to fix these? Thanks! https://www.dropbox.com/s/bqyo61d81uskuch/IMG_0418.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/gcaafid4by8mqxw/IMG_0419.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/98gzowh5944siui/IMG_0420.JPG?dl=0

Hi all—been lurking for a while and am in the process of closing a deal on a 2006 C4 Avy in very nice condition. Before I do, I have a couple questions as I’m hesitant to trust anyone in a used vehicle transaction. This is being sold by a guy in Rancho Cordova, CA who both services and buys/resells boats. We’ve agreed on a price and will be lake testing this week followed by him taking me through the boat mechanically. At this time of year, a third-party presale inspection is tough to come by without waiting a couple weeks minimum. 1) I’ve read that the boat history reports are essentially a waste of money—is there anything else I can do to verify that nothing major has happened to the boat? Can my insurance agent look for past claims based on the HIN? 2) Many of you have talked about the Enzo sac that sits in the rear locker and then goes forward under the port or starboard seats. In this boat, there’s a bulkhead under both rear seats that divides the under-seat storage from the locker. Is that standard? 3) Anything I should be looking for when it comes to red flags that there was some previous issue with the boat that’s been covered up? Thanks in advance for any guidance...I’m looking forward to joining the community of Centurion owners one day soon. Tony

Jake, I'm not sure what the accident details were. There were enough question marks about the boat's history and the work that was done to it (albeit good work) that I didn't want to take a chance. There's another one (yellow) by you in Fairfield/Vacaville that I've been looking at as well, but I'm not a fan of the Evo tower so I haven't really pursued it. The nice part is I have the luxury of waiting--my kids are still pretty young so I don't have to get it NOW. Just want to be ready to jump on the right deal if it pops up.