jimzonaboat

Last trip of the season my Avalanche went into power reduction mode. I was cruising around and then backed off the throttle at which point I got the buzzer every minute and no throttle. I turned the boat and batteries off for about a minute and then back on and the throttle operated normally for the rest of the day. My engine information is: Year: 2006 Make: PCM Excalibur 330 Model: 15-570V-01 (5.7L 350 CID LH MPI) (GM) Serial #: 462755 Firing Order: 18436572 Manuf: 6/21/2006 I went ahead and bit the bullet and got the TechMate Scan tool from Rinda Technologies to see what was going on under the hood. This is the information it provided: Code 81 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Fault TAC Error, PPS 1&2 Correlation Fault TAC Error, Limited Authority In the PCM Digital Throttle Control Diagnostic Supplement (attached if anyone needs it) it lists a variety of combinations, but this exact combination isn't mentioned. Anyone experience this and what the fix was? This happened last year as well and the shop replaced the Throttle Position Sensor on the Throttle Body. Digital Throtle Control Supplement.pdf

Just an update for anyone tracking this thread. So far this season I have only had this trouble code pop up one time (actually twice in the same day to be specific). I was easily able to reset the ECM with the TechMate Scan tool. I started keeping that on the boat just in case. When I got the boat back home, I reseated all of the connections: 2 at the ECM, 1 at the Pedal Position Sensor (where the throttle links to), and 1 at the Throttle Body/Air Intake. So far it hasn't acted up again this year. Hopefully that's all it took was to reseat the connections...fingers crossed!

Well, I got absolutely none of the actual boat projects done this past winter that I had wanted to do - like the ballast upgrade. I also haven't been on here much at all! I did manage to finish my new garage though! It took a lot longer (and a lot more $$$) than I thought. I can now keep the boat indoors, A/C, waxed and polished, and not to mention doing all the maintenance indoors in the A/C. Boat and owner are super happy and now getting out to the lake and coming back home are much easier without having to take everything out and put it back in each trip! Onto the ballast setup for surfing next!

So I have spent the majority of the day reading through just about every post on ballast upgrades and decided to tackle a first draft of some plans to upgrade my factory ballast for surfing. The boat is a 2007 Avalanche with the walk-through transom and I plan to only surf the port side but will also still wakeboard. It is a Storm Series, and has the hard Port and Center, and bag under the walk-through. There is one fill pump that goes to 3 diverter valves in the back for independant control, and each ballast has an independant drain pump. My goal was to maximize the existing factory system while upgrading and adding to it using all of the information that I've read through on this site and some of the other external blogs about Avalanche ballast upgrades. The attached is what I think I would start out with to upgrade the pre-piped factory system. Once I get to surfing and see what this shapes up to be, some of the other ideas I would encorporate would be additional sacs on the seats, brick on the platform, etc. Anyone care to offer feedback or thoughts on this? Seems inline with the general consensus and what folks have recommended. 2007 Avy Ballast Upgrade Design.pdf

rawinnin - good idea; I think I'll end up using the back drain also as a fill once I get a 2nd pump! But it would be a good idea to have the 2nd drain for the factory drain pump as well.

Just got my bimini in from Fineline. I had been looking for a bimini for the Evo tower for quite some time and finally bit the bullet on one. I've read a bunch of posts for others that were looking for something so just thought I'd share. Metcraft was the OEM for the tower, bimini, and racks back then but had gone out of business. I had previously talked to Centurion after learning that and they said they had the plans to make one. Looks pretty nice so far! When I get it installed (will be 2 months until I can do it) I'll post more pics of the final installation in case anyone wants to see how it turns out.

Just following up on this post and hopefully this will help others avoid what has now been a $1600 waste of money and so far a headache. When I finally got back to the States last fall and got started on some of the boat projects I had planned - I spent the majority of a day scratching my head, cussing a bit, researching online, etc to see how to install this Bimini. Keep in mind - I ordered this from Fineline/Centurion as I was told they could make one for the tower since Metcraft had gone out of business. Overall it looks good (when not installed on the boat) but I don’t think this was made for my boat; or if Metcraft gave Fineline/Centurion the schematics they are very wrong. The major things I noted are as follows: 1) There were a few set screws missing and no screws to fasten the mounts to the tower. No big deal, as I have plenty of stainless steel screws and set screws. 2) The tower already had holes drilled and tapped for the mounting brackets, however the mounting brackets for the tower have a flat surface on them, which makes it nearly impossible to have a good fit on the Evolution Tower which is curved. This makes it so that the screws carry a lot of extra torque which isn’t good on that cast aluminum tower. There are shims that I was supposed to have received - and Fineline did send them to me after I followed up with them, but even with the shims the brackets don't fit entirely snug. 3) The width of the Bimini where it connects to the mounts is way too wide. On the main part of the tower (main curved cast aluminum part), the brackets are 69” center to center. The long poles on the Bimini were 78-79” center to center. This makes it virtually impossible to mount the Bimini on the main part of the tower. You can’t actually, without severely bending the Bimini and putting way too much pressure on the brackets which will cause them to strip the screws because they can’t be flush mounted - hence needing the shims. 4) I’ve already got at least one hole stripped on the tower. I was extremely careful in mounting this as I knew in advance from others online that it was a delicate tower for the screws. Needless to say I’m pretty disappointed with it. As is, I can’t use it. I spent over $1600 for the Bimini with S&H and for that kind of money it should have fit out of the box! Basically where it stands right now, I need to find someone that can re-work the frame to size it correctly for the tower, which I'm sure will be more $$. If not this was a huge waste of money. I could have bought a lot of sunscreen otherwise. In my opinion - anyone wanting a bimini for the Evo Towers - don't bother with an OEM unless you live in Merced, CA and can bring your boat to Fineline... So much for shade this year

OK - now that I got my dang boat garage out of the way (See post here) I can finally get down to business with the custom bag. Anyone have any thoughts on the attached? These are the best dimensions I can squeeze on the port side with the Sideswipe exhaust.

Yea that's going to be my first step to look at all the connections. I'll let it sit for the moment though since the cover is on the boat and it's in my neighbors driveway...at least until my nice new boat garage is finally finished

I haven't been out at all this summer yet but.....Agree with WakeDoc on the downtime off the grid. I usually have my phone in a pelican case for emergencies, but never hear it ring or take it out. I absolutely love having a boat and am even building it it's very own garage this fall. It's so relaxing and enjoyable with family and friends and making those memories. I think it's something you have to like and be committed to though, and it doesn't hurt to be mechanically/electrically astute and like tinkering with things. That helps on the maintenance cost for sure.

^^^ "some bad tush design" ...that's not what I said LMAO

I check craigslist every once in a while. I think it would be nice to have for the room and to relax, but not for $450; especially seeing that I'm either in the driver's seat or riding, it wouldn't really benefit me much. You might see if a local upholstery shop can make you one to match. You could probably have one made, and have it embroidered with some bad tush design for less than $450. Of course, if money ain't a thang....

Looks like the oil drain line to me. I usually run it through the drain plug in the back and then hook a 12V pump up to that line after the engine is warm. Sucks the oil out quick; as Skibumm noted otherwise take a while.

uh oh...sorry to hear that RhuntIII

I had put together a little tour of Lake Anna a while ago for some of my friends new to boating. Thought I would post and share for anyone else areound central VA that might be new to boating or to this lake. I'm sure there's plenty more stuff that could be added, but what I've pointed out are the main points of interest for 1) wakeboarding/surfing and 2) drinking I don't know what else you'd want to know... Lake Anna - Tour.pdf

Looks good! Since my GF is claiming the shirt that came with the membership I'll need a couple! Will PM.

Just thought I'd link to two other posts in case anyone wanted to revisite those threads - some lively conversation to boot. See pg 2 on the first link about half way down for Centurion Rudder tunning instructions that Kevin posted. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/3117-boat-steering-issue/page-1?hl=tunning and http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/2055-free-wheeling/?hl= grind on the rudder

That's awesome...the helmet rocks. We need video so we can 1) hear the bitchy wife and 2) have a soundtrack to said wife while hubby surfs. hmm...what song will you pick to play while he's surfing? Wait...why were they not allowed to take photos? Someone was taking their job too seriously...

I think I'd almost be willing to buy you a GoPro to get this action on film and post for all of us....there's no way that would fly on my boat unless she was a perfect 10 and naked...

Anyone get a 4 peice Deckadence setup for the Avy with a walkthrough? I'm trying to decide if I want to replace all of the factory carpet or just the main and the bow. DMF sounds like the way to go.

Check your manual for the Walters V drive model that you have, but that sounds like normal operation to me and I think there all the same in that regard. I had the same question when I got my boat and sure enough it's in the Walters manual. You can find them online, this is the particular page I found it referenced on (http://www.pearson424.org/manuals/VDrive/pages/Page09_jpg.htm). It even says that 1200 RPM is about the right RPM that it should go off.

I started doing this on mine as well last year, a little bit at a time each outing. You'll start to notice a change.

Those are good tops; I looked at them as well. Also; I have read a lot of good feedback about http://www.sewlong.com/

Thanks Troy! I think all my major connection parts are good to go on the list I have. Rev 4 design attached. 2007 Avy Ballast Upgrade Design_v4.pdf

FT...bringing up the cost is going to make me cringe again I'll send you a PM.