lyonboarder

I will be storing my boat in heated storage 50 degrees. Any reason to winterize the boat? Other than the heat in storage going out, any other benefit to winterizing? When I had my boat in SoCal I never winterize it. Now I am in Utah.

Some research on the web brought me to this comment from etrailer.com that makes sense: "The best length for the cable of a breakaway system...will be where the pin would get pulled right as the trailer would come uncoupled. The reason for this is that if the trailer would come uncoupled and the safety chains were to catch the trailer you would still want the brakes to apply."

If my trailer became detached from the ball, I think the breakaway cable will pull before the safety chains fail. The breakaway cable is short enough that it will engage before the chains are fully extended. Is that wrong? Great write up!

Spot on. I for the life of me cannot understand why every boat dealership does not also run a storage facility. The "A" customer looks like this: Buys the boat from the dealership, stores it in their owned lot, dealer services the boat in the off-season and give me front-of-the line for emergency repairs during season.

DEEP POCKETS! I am a CPA and have done work for boat dealerships. Very very very hard for owners to handle the cash flow of a dealership. Seems too often boat dealers are also boat lovers with no business or financial sense. Cannot manage the slow winters or the downturn in the economy. Each market will have its down time. How many people can really afford a $100K+ boat? Most are on credit or home equity. Doesn't take much for that to dry up.

I have an 06 Avalanche with only the center hard tank. I had the exact same issues getting the tank to fill as you describe. Pump worked fine, just could not get the system to prime and start filling the tank. My solution was to remove completely the Orbit sprinkler valve. Solved my problem. In your case with multiple tanks, you may need to REPLACE the valve with something better.

Exactly as Nick213 said above. I can fold mine down by myself.

Thank you. I think those 6 blue plugs are "freeze plugs." Is that the correct term? Are they typically removed during winterization? This was the first time I had to winterize my boat as I moved to a cold climate.

I had my boat winterized last October. The shop is now claiming they forgot to invoice me for a broken drain plug that they replaced. Apparently the broken drain plug is plastic and blue in color. I have only the stock center ballast tank. I am only aware of the following drain plugs on this boat: 1. Transom drain plug-brass 2. Engine bay drain plug near the tranny-Brass with t-handle 3. Ice Chest-expandable rubber screw down drain plug Are there any other drain plugs on this boat related to winterization?

Thank you for all the suggestions. I contacted Acme and they suggested the 1619 (13.5 X 13.75 .105cup).

07 Avalanche. Current prop is #497, 13x17.5, 1 1/8" that came on the boat. I have moved from SoCal about 1,000 elevation to UT about 5,400 elevation. Need suggestions for a prop change.

Thanks. Ended up going to Deer Creek. I think I need to change my prop going from low elevation of SoCal to Utah. Noticed a lot less pull.

Just moved back to Utah after being away for 25 years. I see others on this forum are from Utah. What lakes/reserviors do you suggest that are close to North Utah County? Is anyone going out to Utah Lake anymore?

But how do I get the metal frame to slide back down over the window?

There is not a screw, or even a screw hole. I think that is why this side came off. I noticed the other side does have a screw just above the gunnell securing the frame so it cannot come up.