Praesto

Couldn't edit my last post - Now I am considering doing this myself. It looks like it may be easier than I thought. Do I simply connect the distribution block to the ground and current power source using a wire that is = to the gauge of X+Y amps, then use a wire of gauge X to connect ground and power to amp X, and vise versa for Y. If so then that problem should be solved. Connecting the amps to the speakers and splitting the RCA connector is obviously really easy. Tuning is not hard either. The only problem I would need to work through is using the distribution block with the grounds and power. Do you have any you might recommend so I can get it on order?

I will try to find a reputable shop to do the install. I don't want to try a self install and damage the speakers/amps before I even get to use them. I will hook the speakers into the amps, and split the RCA so that all I have to get the shop to do is ground/power the amps. Should make it relatively low cost.

Sounds like I should just have a professional do the install. Such a pain cause that will probably cost a couple hundred head unit is Head Unit: Jensen MSR3012

Do I get a splitter for my head unit? It appears to have 1 red and 1 black RCA connector in the back. It would be easiest for me to use a splitter and then split them in the compartment where the amps are housed (That way I don't have to start taking the boat apart too much) After I get that figured out, does this sound right: Step 1) Connect Sub to Polk 1100.5, this part is easy because there is only 1 place to connect it Step2) Connect left in boat speakers to channel 1 on amp, and right in boat speakers to channel 2, this should be easy once I identify the speakers if that's all I have to do. Step3) Connect right tower speakers to AMP1 R+/R- and left tower speakers to AMP1 L+/L- tower speakers Step4) Power+Ground both amps and connect RCA connectors This looks pretty straight forward. The only part I may have trouble with is power/grounding both amps. The power & ground are already in place for the amp in there, but not exactly sure how to do the new amp. Can I splice off the current power/grounds?

Speakers on order, will get the amp you recommended. If possible, I would like to hook this up myself. It will save me a ton of money. How do I test which speaker wires go to each speaker? The wires are all ran through the tower and into the battery/amp compartment already. It sounds like I need to figure out what runs where, then figure out where to put each speaker wire / the sub.

Thanks for the info, I can go ahead and do that. Do I need to change my battery setup, or is that good? As a final question, should all the speakers be wired to their amps, then both amps wired to the one head unit?

Currently I have: Amp: Polk 1100.5 details here Sub: Polk MM 1040 In Boat Speakers: Kicker 06KM613 Head Unit: Jensen MSR3012 Battery 1: Dual-Purpose Flooded Marine Battery, 810 MCA, Group 27 Battery 2: Marine Starting Battery, 1050MCA, Group 27 Would like to add: Tower Speakers: Kicker 41KMS674C I can add another amp if necessary, how should I power everything? I am new to this and trying if possible to DIY it. The tower speakers are all wired from my last pair, but I think the amp set-up was wrong. Also I can add another battery if necessary. I actually bring an extra battery incase I run into battery issues, I also have another battery I could bring if necessary. Both of these two are a little older but they work in a pinch.

One day, maybe I can afford one of these...

I would have no problem putting space between the amps, was just s little curious. Do you have any other amp recommendations for the tier speakers? I think right now this is all powered through the head unit, is that right?

I would have no problem putting space between the amps, was just s little curious. Do you have any other amp recommendations for the tier speakers? I think right now this is all powered through the head unit, is that right?

You could die before even using the boat.

In the picture on Centurions website, they indicate that the boat itself is 30 feet, so I guess it's just a bad picture. (To see what I am talking about, click this link, scroll down and look on the left: https://centurionboats.com/boats/fi25/). I understand now that when they say Garage specs they mean with the trailer. I thought these boats cost more than 100K to be honest, that's not too horrible a price. But, if someone has to finance it for 20 years to afford it, they shouldn't be buying the boat to begin with. Financing 100K for 20 years at the average lifetime return of the market turns that money into 450K. I feel like, if you can't afford it financing for 5 years or less, you should look at a used boat or something. Within a 20 year period there are going to be some major maintenance costs (I had to replace an engine year 8). Just my thoughts, the boat itself is gorgeous.

Couple questions - Who the hell can afford these boats, and also why do they say 25 feet long when it's almost 30?

How bad is your boat to consider reupholstery?

Last season I believe we fixed all the issues, this season will be the truthsayer for whether or not we were successful. First time out this season went great though. The time and money spent was last season when we got a new alternator and batteries. Overall just looking for speakers that will sound pretty good when someone is boarding, not an audiophile and don't need to drop $1200+ on the revs/exiles. Alright, so then it sounds like I may need another amp for tower speakers, which is fine but good to know. I think the original issue was the alternator was bad, resulting in a failure to charge the batteries. I will be using the boat a lot this week coming up, so I will be able to do a strong test on performance with the new equipment. I actually don't usually listen to music while anchored, I assume that's nearly impossible to do without running the boat while anchored? I don't mind getting another amp if necessary, or getting another/changing a battery. Just want to focus on getting it all right. Seems like I may need to hire a professional to wire it all together. I already have the wires running through the tower and into the amp. The amp sits under the glove box against the wall behind the bow seat. Is there any potential of fire by having two amps close together?