Praesto

Looking to fix the stereo system in my boat. It has not really operated well since I originally had it installed. I will be purchasing some new tower speakers and have some questions. How do I know how much my amp can handle/do I need another or a new amp? I have the polk 1100.5 amp, it's appeared to have been serving me well since I purchased it, but I don't know if it provides too little, enough, or too much power. I know the very first thing I need to do is provide equipment information, and I won't have that until this weekend. However I am looking at new tower speakers and so far I like the Kicker KMS67 HLCD speakers. The speakers can be found at the link below. https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Wakeboard-Component-Speakers-Tweeters/dp/B010ESOYUE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1530111151&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kicker+kms67+hlcd I will provide head unit, in boat speaker (4), and sub information when I have it this weekend. Do I have enough power? I have a two battery hook-up, but historically they seem to run low and give me issues. Currently, I have a new alternator, and two batteries that are less than 1 year old. I can provide amp information this weekend, but together they were expensive. They were recommended by a guy at west marine who uses them on his boat. He seemed extremely knowledgeable and actually talked us down from spending more money by educating us. One is a starting battery, the other is a running battery. I am about 95% sure that one is the 1050MA group 27 battery found at the top link, and the second is the dual purpose 810 group 27 found at the second link. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--marine-starting-battery-1050mca-group-27--15020126?recordNum=8 https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--dual-purpose-flooded-marine-battery-810-mca-group-27--15020191?recordNum=9 Is this a sufficient set-up? I have a bettery switch and usually leave both on for running. Also, due to historical battery issues, I carry and extra fully charged battery. If I run into battery issues while I am out, I hook it up and go straight back to dock. These are my first two questions, once I make sure I have adequate power, and can get everything to work, I will probably reach out with wiring questions. I am not good with wiring and could benefit by finding a local buddy to help. As always, thanks in advance for any and all support from the crew! -P

Couldn't edit my last post - Now I am considering doing this myself. It looks like it may be easier than I thought. Do I simply connect the distribution block to the ground and current power source using a wire that is = to the gauge of X+Y amps, then use a wire of gauge X to connect ground and power to amp X, and vise versa for Y. If so then that problem should be solved. Connecting the amps to the speakers and splitting the RCA connector is obviously really easy. Tuning is not hard either. The only problem I would need to work through is using the distribution block with the grounds and power. Do you have any you might recommend so I can get it on order?

I will try to find a reputable shop to do the install. I don't want to try a self install and damage the speakers/amps before I even get to use them. I will hook the speakers into the amps, and split the RCA so that all I have to get the shop to do is ground/power the amps. Should make it relatively low cost.

Sounds like I should just have a professional do the install. Such a pain cause that will probably cost a couple hundred head unit is Head Unit: Jensen MSR3012

Do I get a splitter for my head unit? It appears to have 1 red and 1 black RCA connector in the back. It would be easiest for me to use a splitter and then split them in the compartment where the amps are housed (That way I don't have to start taking the boat apart too much) After I get that figured out, does this sound right: Step 1) Connect Sub to Polk 1100.5, this part is easy because there is only 1 place to connect it Step2) Connect left in boat speakers to channel 1 on amp, and right in boat speakers to channel 2, this should be easy once I identify the speakers if that's all I have to do. Step3) Connect right tower speakers to AMP1 R+/R- and left tower speakers to AMP1 L+/L- tower speakers Step4) Power+Ground both amps and connect RCA connectors This looks pretty straight forward. The only part I may have trouble with is power/grounding both amps. The power & ground are already in place for the amp in there, but not exactly sure how to do the new amp. Can I splice off the current power/grounds?

Speakers on order, will get the amp you recommended. If possible, I would like to hook this up myself. It will save me a ton of money. How do I test which speaker wires go to each speaker? The wires are all ran through the tower and into the battery/amp compartment already. It sounds like I need to figure out what runs where, then figure out where to put each speaker wire / the sub.

Thanks for the info, I can go ahead and do that. Do I need to change my battery setup, or is that good? As a final question, should all the speakers be wired to their amps, then both amps wired to the one head unit?

Currently I have: Amp: Polk 1100.5 details here Sub: Polk MM 1040 In Boat Speakers: Kicker 06KM613 Head Unit: Jensen MSR3012 Battery 1: Dual-Purpose Flooded Marine Battery, 810 MCA, Group 27 Battery 2: Marine Starting Battery, 1050MCA, Group 27 Would like to add: Tower Speakers: Kicker 41KMS674C I can add another amp if necessary, how should I power everything? I am new to this and trying if possible to DIY it. The tower speakers are all wired from my last pair, but I think the amp set-up was wrong. Also I can add another battery if necessary. I actually bring an extra battery incase I run into battery issues, I also have another battery I could bring if necessary. Both of these two are a little older but they work in a pinch.

One day, maybe I can afford one of these...

I would have no problem putting space between the amps, was just s little curious. Do you have any other amp recommendations for the tier speakers? I think right now this is all powered through the head unit, is that right?

I would have no problem putting space between the amps, was just s little curious. Do you have any other amp recommendations for the tier speakers? I think right now this is all powered through the head unit, is that right?

You could die before even using the boat.

In the picture on Centurions website, they indicate that the boat itself is 30 feet, so I guess it's just a bad picture. (To see what I am talking about, click this link, scroll down and look on the left: https://centurionboats.com/boats/fi25/). I understand now that when they say Garage specs they mean with the trailer. I thought these boats cost more than 100K to be honest, that's not too horrible a price. But, if someone has to finance it for 20 years to afford it, they shouldn't be buying the boat to begin with. Financing 100K for 20 years at the average lifetime return of the market turns that money into 450K. I feel like, if you can't afford it financing for 5 years or less, you should look at a used boat or something. Within a 20 year period there are going to be some major maintenance costs (I had to replace an engine year 8). Just my thoughts, the boat itself is gorgeous.

Couple questions - Who the hell can afford these boats, and also why do they say 25 feet long when it's almost 30?

How bad is your boat to consider reupholstery?

Last season I believe we fixed all the issues, this season will be the truthsayer for whether or not we were successful. First time out this season went great though. The time and money spent was last season when we got a new alternator and batteries. Overall just looking for speakers that will sound pretty good when someone is boarding, not an audiophile and don't need to drop $1200+ on the revs/exiles. Alright, so then it sounds like I may need another amp for tower speakers, which is fine but good to know. I think the original issue was the alternator was bad, resulting in a failure to charge the batteries. I will be using the boat a lot this week coming up, so I will be able to do a strong test on performance with the new equipment. I actually don't usually listen to music while anchored, I assume that's nearly impossible to do without running the boat while anchored? I don't mind getting another amp if necessary, or getting another/changing a battery. Just want to focus on getting it all right. Seems like I may need to hire a professional to wire it all together. I already have the wires running through the tower and into the amp. The amp sits under the glove box against the wall behind the bow seat. Is there any potential of fire by having two amps close together?

You can use a tarp to cover it until yours comes in. Also, if you purchased it from a shop that has it covered inside, ask if they will continue to keep it until you get the cover in. Do some research, covers come in all shapes and sizes and provide various benefits. If your worried, I assume you’re storing the boat outside. I can tell you from personal experience that the sun will beat it and you will want something that goes below the run rail.

I didn't get the best chance to smell it, my first concern was getting the people off the boat (we were still at the dock getting the boat started) and the smoke went away fairly quickly when I opened the engine hatch. I am not exactly sure how the centurion codes are read through the software. I can ask next time I go in. The boat was running when the original code turned on, and we idled back to the dock. However the boat was not run for a few days while waiting to take it to the dealership or at the dealership.

I know I seem to be fraught with issues. After finally getting my 2 beep issue fixed it appears I have yet another issue. I will just provide some information and try my best to organize it. 1.) My oil pressure switch went bad on the v-drive, light on the dash stayed on so I fixed that. Upon fixing it the light went off but the two beeps didn't go away 2.) We took the boat to an ex-centurion dealer and they agreed to erase the codes for $50 (pretty cheap in my area) While there they mentioned there was a code "related to fuel" not sure what that meant 3.) We put the boat back in the water and while trying to get it running it makes makes a noise as if someone took off the systems exhaust and a fair bit of white smoke came from the engine compartment. The white smoke came from the belt side of the engine 4.) Freaking out (Because as many of you might know from my other threads) I just got a new engine less than 2 years ago. I go get the trailer and get ready to pull it out 5.) After talking with some people I was convinced to turn it back on to see if what I feared had came true (Blown engine again) and the white smoke did not come back, but it did sound rough for a little before calming down After looking at it I notice my belt is in absolutely horrible condition so I am getting a new belt, I am also going to make sure to have the fuel/water separator replaced. When I take the boat in, what else should I ask that they do/fix? The two beeps I believe came back so I was going to ask them to diagnose/troubleshoot those. I am starting to feel very annoyed with my constant bad luck (or so it feels) I have included a pic of the screen the guy was willing to take for me (kinda a poor pic but maybe it will help?) I am thinking all of this is related to bad fuel, how does everyone take care of their fuel over the end of the season or even during the season? Changing the fuel water separator twice a year (beginning of season and mid season) and treating with marine stabil doesn't seem to be enough. Lastly, there seems to constantly be a little water in the hull, is this normal?

Hi All- I am having a late start to the season this year, been on the boat only three times so far :(. Anyways my batteries are bad and I was looking for some recommendations on top notch batteries. Separately, are there any third party companies that make board racks for the 2007 Centurion Cyclone C4? I have the pro-flight tower. I tried monster tower and their board racks can't hold any weight and still stay up, I feel like they are purely for cosmetics. I even tried purchasing a kit of the adapters, added in rubber for grip, and tried everything else. Looking for something functional. Thanks for any and all help! I am trying to pick up the batteries in the next couple days since I was stranded by dead battery last trip out

This worked but the two beeps still continue, how do I turn those off? (Similar to turning off the check engine light in a car)

Hi All- as per my previous thread in a different section (linked below) I ran into a problem with the v-drive light. I purchased a new oil pressure switch for the V-drive, pulled the old one out and am working on putting the new one in. However It is getting very difficult to get it threaded down completely, This might be a stupid question but is it supposed to be screwed in all the way? If so I may consider unscrewing it and seeing if something is in the way. This is my first time changing this and the boat will be out of commission unless I can solve this. Any help is appreciated. EDIT: In this thread on wake world this guys is NOT threaded all the way down, but he complains about a leaking issue.. Not sure if that is just because of an old switch or threading http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=803008 Thanks!

I can go ahead and just put it all together when I get back just that way. Hopefully it works!!

Went out this past weekend and the v-drive light was on above 1200 RPM. Research indicates this means get a new pressure switch for the v-drive, this constant costs make money tight. $50 for the switch, hoping to get it on order soon. As for the battery compartment I think I will completely re-do it. I do not like how the amp is located in the far back and difficult to get to. I plan to do something clean like this. I really need to clean up the audio anyways because it was a poor installation and needs to be done correctly.

Are you recommending to put the maintainer in a battery box? That seems a little odd a short it would be deep inside. The batteries already have boxes. I was thinking of either removing all the carpet or installing something like painted pvc and attaching everything to that.