I went to a Chevron oil class and stayed at Holiday Inn so I'm like an oil pro...JK...anyway the class was put on by Chevron so I had to make sure I viewed it through that lens but the guy made a lot of sense so he didn't do the greatest job selling his product. He basically said if you run a certified oil with the proper viscosity for the machine you are putting it in and change it at the recommended intervals it makes little difference what you run and will not void your warranty (look up the Harley lawsuit they tried to spec only Harley oil not a rating, they lost the suit and now spec a rating) He also said viscosity and thermal breakdown that you see advertised is essentially a myth that would require a station wagon pulling a loaded semi trailer to mars and back uphill both ways to make happen(that said we are running these boats under some serious loads). The true culprit of oil break down was particulates and contamination, both of which can be taken care of by changing your oil within proper service intervals.
All that said oil is so cheap and the gap between the price of dinosaur guts and synthetics is almost a non issue if you feel better about the engineered stability of synthetics go for it. The filters are mostly marketing unless you are talking about one rated down to really tight on microns like the Mercedes Fleece filters. Mercedes specs a 10000 mile oil change or annual and get extended service intervals by filtering to a smaller microns but keeping flow by using fleece instead of paper. other manufacturers have followed suit.
I personally would just change oil often, it's cheap and we are pushing on these boats with a lot of weight and pushing a boat through water is essentially driving uphill all the time.
I use that Mitivac, warm up the motor, couple pulls on the mitivac handle and walk away or work on something else, 5 minutes you hear it sucking air and you are done. Since I do all my own service there is no need for a filter wrench, spin it to snug and then throw a quarter turn I believe is spec, I probably over tighten filters a little but I can always get a filter I did off by hand.
I mess around with synthetics on some of my stuff, I have noticed 2 things. If you put it in old stuff it will leak, if it has a small leak it will be a big one with synthetics. Second older motors (especially pushrod motors) the synthetics seem to make the motor noisier on the top end. On my 98,000 mile Harley I ran synthetics since about 10,000 miles, on a trip I had an issue and dumped my oil, had to refill with Rotella....top end was significantly quieter. I have torn the top end apart on that bike a few times to modify and everything in there always looks great, so even if it is noisy it is doing its job of protecting metal to metal interfaces.