Leaderboard

What’s up everyone, so it’s been quite a while since I first got my boat and started this old thread but I thought I would just give a little update. Ended up getting the Aviator tower and went a little crazy with the stereo among many many other projects on it haha. I will say that I am very appreciative of this site as there has been a ton of content that I researched and read through that really helped me out along the way!

Couple pics surfing the wave yesterday evening....more pics and details to come as soon as I have time to put it all together. Also gonna get pics/video of only the wave next time to show the shape/form. If you are on the fence about getting these surf tabs from InfinityWave @Shaka, its a no brainer at the price they are selling them for. Results could not be better in my opinion and I have high expectations when it comes to anything on my boat! Honestly, I was nervous about this initially since I knew the factory QS tabs where not too great on the 2015/2016 SV models. The shape of these tabs along with the fins under them to "direct" the water coming off bottom of the boat toward the wave to give you maximm push....works perfect and it seems that the lack of fins properly directing the water flow toward the surf wave was the flaw in the factory tabs. A deep-V hull is directing the water out, not at the wave and my best guess is that was why the factory tabs did not deliver results that owners were expecting and why many of the SV owners with the factory tabs list boat instead of using the tabs. These InfinityWave surf tabs certainly addressed tho issues.

These are the 3 final after pictures of how the new 19mm Stainless buttons look. 1st 2 pics I had the navigation lights on so the button would all light up (otherwise only the ignition button stays lite when its clicked to the "ON" position to provide power to the boat. This ignition button is the one that I have had trouble with in past with it always working. Starting late 2017, the ignition button would occasionally decide to randomly not work after I had been on lake for a while. I would shut down and then when ready to go, it would not work. Then typically about 15-20mins later, it would start working again for not apparent reason. Annoying since it would leave me stranded. I got it replaced under warranty and it worked good all last year (tho when on water I rarely turned it off), when surfer's where switching out, I would just hit "engine stop" to shut down the boat but leave ignition button active.....then when ready to go, just hit the "engine start" button. What made me decide to replace was the first time I went to start the boat this Spring, the ignition button did not want to work for about 5 mins (panic mode since ready to leave for the lake and all packed up with people waiting, lol). Luckily it ended up working, but was tired of dealing with this issue.

Here are some pics...

Don’t forget the loud mic..... who doesn’t love that when the lake lice come to close to your rider.

Yes, the knob alone is $40, but you need three 2-chnl RCA cables to make it work. If these end up being long runs, quality RCAs are not cheap. if you use the Roswell 5m 6-chnl RCA, you are creeping into the $100 range. The other down side is, you are taking a single pre-amp head unit output, and cutting it in half through the switch out to each amp. Depending on the system amp goals, this can reduce output or result in high gain levels at the amps. Adding a line driver absolutely addresses this, but add another $100. At this point, you are now getting close to the price range of a WS-420SQ. Now you get master volume and a dual 4-band EQ PLUS sub level volume.

So i bought the avalanche.. Lots of research now for getting it set up a bit better :-)

I gotta say, I am STOKED about how good these InfinityWave surf tabs performed and how good they look on the boat! The first lake test yesterday went flawless and I could not be happier with my decision to pull the trigger on these! Easy to dial (took less than 3mins adjusting the tabs to find perfect surf wave). Takes very little deployment angle. Using the same ballast setup I was using before when running the Nauticurl suck gate. The rpm's dropped over 200rpm compared to using the suck gate and speed was 11mph instead of 10.8! With center tab at 40% (see below FB video), rpm's are running at 3150. Taking the center tab to 0% to make the surf wave the biggest possible, rpm was 3400. With the Nauticurl and speed at 10.8, rpm's were running 3400-3450 at 40% and 3650+ when taking trim tab to 0%. Soon, I will be posting a much more detailed review and writeup on the InfinityWave tabs. In meantime, Here is a link to the Centurion/Supreme Facebook page that one of my buddies on the boat took and posted to show 2) video's riding the wave and some pictures! WHOOP . https://www.facebook.com/groups/1882458648689246/ https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108049606/?type=3&theater&ifg=1 https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108249611/?type=3&theater&ifg=1

Finally got the time to sit down and do a more detailed write up. Myself and a friend installed the SV version of these InfinityWave surf tabs on my 2014 Centurion SV244, we installed the tabs one evening and then I ran and finished the wiring a couple nights later on 04/13. Since the weather was crappy that weekend, my first LAKE TEST was on the evening of 04/17/2019. I can honestly say that my expectations were exceeded and after only 2-3mins, I had found the right deployment angle to make an excellent surf wave on the regular side. We only had a couple hours and myself and 2 buddies spent it surfing. I totally forgot to see what goofy wave looked like or get any pics or video without a surfer on the wave. I will do that next time out and post up more information. Initial reaction when getting the InfinityWave tab system….they look and feel very well made, its a beefy system and the finish is very nice. I love the fins on the bottom of the tabs since one thing that concerned me putting tabs on an SV244, is I knew that the factory Quicksurf tabs that were installed on the 2015/2016 models where not up to par and most owners I talked to or heard about preferred to still list the boat for the surf wave since they did not feel like the wave using the tabs had enough push/power. I believe with a deep V boat, the hull wants to direct the water outwards, not back toward the surf wave, so without the fins on the bottom of the tab which help direct the water coming off the bottom of the hull toward the surf wave, you don’t get surf wave that feels like it has power. I have Ramfill on my boat and since its important for the tabs to be up as far as possible under swim platform when retracted, the best position I found puts the actuator bracket mount behind the Ramfill tanks….so rather than run the actuator wire thru the hole in the bracket, I drilled/chamfered a hole for the wire approx. 3.5” toward the center of the boat & 3.5” higher than the bracket position so I could avoid the Ramfill tanks and get access to the wire. Actuator wire is 5/16” diameter, so I drilled a 3/8” hole (starting with smaller bit and running in reverse till well thru gelcoat), after the 3/8” hole was drilled I then got another drill bit slightly larger and ran it in reverse to chamfer the hole so I could avoid spider cracking and remove sharp edges due to wire running thru that (most people will not run into this and can run the wire thru the extra hole in the actuator bracket). Then I ran the wires thru hull and sealed the holes on both inside/outside of the hull. I then ran and zip tied all the electrical up to the bottom of the top deck along the outer perimeter and ran everything up to the drivers helm carefully concealing the wires and securing them with zip ties. For now, I am just fabricating a temp bracket to mount the switches below the steering wheel for easy access. My Ballast setup on this boat: Ramfill = 1,250 each side for total of 2500lbs. PnP bags in each rear locker at 700lbs each for total of 1400lbs. PnP bag under bow seats is 500lbs. Then I also have 500lbs of lead bags, I place 300lbs under the bow filler cushion and the other 200 lbs to the left of drivers feet on the floor against the built-in cooler. I fill the Ramfill tanks to 100% on both sides and then I DRAIN off the non-surf side Ramfill to 80% to give a slight list to boat. So basically 1250 Ramfill on surf side and 1000 Ramfill on non-surf side which gives a total of 4,650lbs of ballast. In video’s I posted links too above were taken on 04/17, total of 3 guys on boat including the surfer. Speed is 11mph and center trim tab is at 40%. PCM ZR409 engine at 800ft elevation and my rpm was at 3,150. Previously I ran the same ballast set up but used Nauticurl suck gate and with all things the same, my rpm was at 3,400, so using these InfinityWave surf tabs brought the rpm’s down for sure. Love that since its easier on the engine and I will save a little gas money to boot. Extremely happy with my purchase and wanted to post my experience since I know others are looking at these tabs and probably have similar initial hesitation like I did since these tabs are fairly new to market. Combine the performance of these tabs which I can now experience behind my boat with the great price and customer service and you have a winner!

It's great that you are happy with your tabs. I worked hard on the design with a lot of prototypes.

I WAS using a Nauticurl suck gate.....these surf tabs replaced the suck gate, so the Nauticurl will now be sold since I have no need for it any longer. Yay!! Surf tabs are much more convenient, have more uses that just for surfing (clean up wave for wakeboarding, jump on plane quickly if you have ballast loaded and wanna go to another cove, etc), lower the rpm's while surfing which is easier on my engine long term as well as lower fuel usage (since a suck gate creates a lot of side drag). They also look great and add value to my boat so when the time comes to sell, I am sure that my boat will be in high demand since it will be a turnkey system ready to go. I will say tho that I have zero intention of selling since adding these surf tabs literally gave me every option that the newest boats have. It may have been my only excuse before to upgrade and blow a serious amount of money....so it also allowed me to easily convince the wife to spend $2k on these tabs, compared to selling the boat and then having to stack another $50k on top of that to get a boat that is 5yrs newer. No way I would have done that anyway cause I have been perfectly happy with my ride and I don't make enough money to spend it like that. Now tho, I literally couldnt come up with an excuse if I wanted too. Frankly, I have been considering adding GSA for the last 2 years but could not bring myself to spend $4k for them....not to mention I have heard mixed reviews on how effective GSA is on the deep V boats. But to spend only $2k....and on tabs that were designed SPECIFICALLY for the Deep-V hull, I was all in on making that happen! You are right, the tabs do stick out the sides of the platform some as the pics show, however its worth mentioning that this will not be the case for everyone since my boat has a smaller swim platform called the "surf sized" platform so it does not interfere with or cut into the surf wave. I will just make sure kids on my boat are aware of the tabs and keep my eye on them when swimming or jumping off the back to be sure they jump out, rather than to the side. All these boats have some potential for danger tho and I already have the center trim tab and FAE sticking out, luckily never had any issues there I don't think mine is much different than the new boats with the trim tabs and we get onto the platform from the rear anyway when getting out of the water. Have you seen the GSA surf tabs? Those are quite long and all my friends that have GSA have those tabs sticking out past the end of the swim platform, these come off the side some since my swim platform is not as wide as some, but do not stick out past the back at all and to me, its more likely to be an issue if they extended past the end of the platform rather than sides. I don't personally know anyone that has been injured, tho I am sure it happens occasionally.

@Dkagele The short version....the InfinityWave surf tabs were flawless at our test yesterday evening and I could not be happier with my decision to pull the trigger on these! Easy to dial (took less than 3mins adjusting the tabs to find perfect surf wave). Same ballast setup I was using before. The rpm's dropped over 200rpm compared to using the suck gate! With center tab at 40% (see below FB video), rpm's running at 3,150. Taking the center tab to 0% to make the surf wave the biggest possible, rpm was 3400. I will be posting a much more detailed review and writeup on the InfinityWave tabs. In meantime, Here is a link to the Centurion/Supreme Facebook page that one of my buddies on the boat took and posted to show 2) video's riding the wave and some pictures! WHOOP . https://www.facebook.com/groups/1882458648689246/ https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108049606/?type=3&theater&ifg=1 https://www.facebook.com/brandon.penrod/videos/pcb.2300131463588627/10218483108249611/?type=3&theater&ifg=1

Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.

Sure will! I planned to post a full review with pics and video as soon as I can test & dial in. I am expecting/hoping test will go great. Finally gonna get to test my new InfinityWave surf tabs this evening. I planned to go out on Sunday but the weather here was really crappy all weekend, so heading out with my 2 surfing buddies this evening. Tabs are very well made and my install went smoothly. I connected the tabs directly to my 3rd battery so I can put them up/down without boat being on. I dont think that will be any issue since when not using the boat, its garaged with batteries all turned off and NOCO 3-bank charger hooked up and that 3rd battery is a backup to my 2nd battery which is for accessories/stereo. I don't see any reason why they wont work great, these tabs have the 4 fins under them which directs the water flow under boat toward the wave to give it the push you want. The original "QuickSurf" tabs on the SV boats did not have those fins and were smaller in size than these....and from what I hear didn't work that great and speculation is that a large reason is because the water wasn't "directed" to the wave properly since due to deep v hull, the hull wants to push the water away from the boat rather than behind it (I heard many people with those QS factory tabs on 2015/2016 Centurion boats were getting a better wave listing their boats rather than using the factory QS system) so I was initially nervous about it. After a good deal of research tho, I am pretty confident that I will have good results with this design, plus of course the owner tested these on his own SV230 boat. InfinityWave tab design is similar to the re-designed 2019 surf tabs that Supreme also came out with recently for on their 238 and I hear they are much better this year than in previous years. Since Supreme is also a deep-v boat, should work similar and you know they put a lot of R&D into the new design. Previously, been using a Nauticurl suck gate since 2017 for my surf wave, puts out a very nice clean wave with great push and length. This is a big boat, so takes more to sink the hull, no replacement for displacement! The ballast I have is: Ramfill = 2500lbs; 500lb bow bag under seats; 2) 700lb PnP bags in rear lockers & 500lbs of leadwake bags (so 4900lbs total available....tho if you see my setup below, I am dropping approx 250lbs of that, so using roughly 4650lbs of the ballast). Typical crew for me is 3 guys total including me.....if I get more than 4 guys on boat, I start dropping some ballast to account for the extra weight at rear since on my boat that amount has been perfect. Sometimes if its rough out, I also put a little less lead in the bow so I dont take any big waves over the bow tho majority of that is the driving style. Still, the SV has a lower nose and free board than many of the newer boats so I stay aware of that since I boat on a large lake with big cruisers, so chop can get extreme at times. I like a long wave with plenty of real estate to play on, so was filling all ballast 100%, then drain off Ramfill on NON-surf side to 80% full to give a slight list toward surf side. 300lbs of my lead added to bow under bow filler cushion (including bow bag under seats a total of 800lbs in bow) and the other 200lbs in cabin against the built-in cooler to left of drivers feet. Partial reason for the listing... is there is only one spot on my hull to mount suck gate and with the extra ballast the gate was a little too deep in water. I found if you bury the suck gate too far in water, the wave is not as good so the list brings it up a little out of water and gave me an excellent wave. On test, I plan to start with same ballast setup and see what happens and tweak from there. Frankly the suck gate wave I have is incredible, so if these surf tabs give me similar results, I will be very pleased. I am not really expecting a "better" wave (tho its possible), I just want better convenience, looks, functionality and ability to do wave transfers on the fly. I have 2 friends that are pro's that ride behind my boat occasionally and say the wave is comp quality, I know I love it, but am a noob compared to them and many others on this forum. Using my center tab to adjust, I can either make a steep barrel wave going to 0-10% deployed.....or a more skim style putting tab down to roughly 80%, depends on my rider. Personally I like around 30% since I ride surf style and have been trying to get better at my air's, etc. Tab surf system will not only be easier to deal with, but also will make the boat a little more efficient since the suck gate obviously creates extra drag. My rpm difference is 3100-3200 listing vs 3400-3600 using he suck gate depending on the attitude of my center trim plate setting. Speed is 10.8-11mph and I am at 800ft elevation with the ZR409 engine and using a #1847 & #1433 props (same size props, just slightly different cup which is too slight for me to notice any difference). Totally pumped about going surfing later today!!

That looks great! I may need to get some if/when I change out my head unit to a wetsounds. I’ll have to have a new plate made to accommodate the wetsounds remote.

I have 3 cigarette lighter sockets in my 2014 SV244 and want to replace them with hardwired, double usb units, have no use for the cigarette lighters and these boats dont have factory usb ports. Anyway, looks like plug & play for the one in the rear locker and the one in the glove box. The one by ignition key, below the throttle is the one I really want to replace. I noticed the plug on the back of that one is modified. Instead of 1 positive and 1 negative, it has 1 positive and then 3 separate negative wires hooked to it, 2 of them coming out the wiring loom, so figure it must be important, or maybe that is the fuse protection. Anyway....since the new unit doesnt have the negative side with ability to put 3 spades on it, can I just crimp those 3 wires together and put them all to the single negative on this new unit without an issue? (Dont have picture at moment, but can get some). The one's I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGQ92S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its a 3.0 and another with 24amp charger. Since Its plug and play for me and I wont be adding any in-line fuse like some of these offer, am I good? I assume there is already fuse protection for the cigarette lighters. I assume some of you have already done this so was hoping for some feedback in case I am not thinking of something. I also just ordered new button assemblies to replace the 4 I have on my dash console.....Ignition/Start/Stop/Horn. I have had several issues with that ignition button not always wanting to work (as you know, if that doesn't work, you are not starting the boat). Got warranty last winter and it worked fine all last summer tho i rarely use it and just hit the "stop" button when switching riders and always leave ignition button on cause I dont want to deal with potential issue. Anyway, the new one did it too me again last Sat when I went surfing. So I found some on Amazon that look nice (a lot like the ones on the RI boats), stainless with blue LED. Seemed like the 16mm buttons would be too small to push in comfortably (and some reviews said you had to use pinky finger cause button was too small), so I ordered the 19mm, which means the hole will need to be 3/4", its currently 5/8". So I am gonna drill out the aluminum dash insert and see if I can correctly wire these buttons right the first time! I am going to do one at a time to be sure if I do mess up, I know where I did it rather than having to trouble shoot all 4. I took good before pics too. I got 2 of the regular buttons for the "start & stop engine" buttons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFMWH6V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 for the horn: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNQHWZT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This one looked cool to me, but not sure how it will look, I may just use one of the buttons in first link since it still says "horn" next to it, lol. 1 for the "ignition".https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZR7MMXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1This one can not be a momentary switch, I thot it looked cool to have the power symbol on it, plus with that LED on, you know its working. I will post up pics of both of the mods when done.

10s are a much better sound vs the 8s if price difference is not the concern get the 10s you can always turn it down but the more balanced sound, mid bass vs highs, is better sounding all around over the 8s all day.

I have not been able to finish this yet since I have been putting the time I have into installing my new InfinityWave surf tab system. Another few hours on that project and I will be ready to lake test (if the storms in my area will move out soon). For the 4 new control panel buttons I am replacing tho....I did get a chance to drill out one of the factory holes (the button for the factory red "Engine Stop") so I could test fit it and see how it looks. I think this is a mod that will end of looking and working great! The new stainless button is the 2nd one down on right side of control panel at helm. The factory holes are 5/8"....and the new stainless 19mm momentary buttons need a 3/4" hole. (the 16mm options are too small IMO and would require using pinky finger to depress), so decided to get the larger ones and drill the holes out larger. Figure if I was able to muster up the courage to drill a bunch of new holes in my transom....a couple on the inside of the boat was nothing, lol.

I have started the InfinityWave surf tab system install on my 2014 SV244. I am totally pumped about this and look forward to testing as soon as these storms move out. Here are some teaser pics in the meantime. Tabs and actuators/wires all fully mounted and in place... just need to finish permanently installing my wiring and then fabricate my bracket to mount the switches at the helm since I dont want to drill into my dash at this time. Tabs look really good and I temp wired everything together last night to test it all, everything worked very well and I am excited at the prospect of soon being able to control my surfing with the switches! Shaka is very responsive, these guys are obviously dedicated to making sure that everything works well and they provide a quality product for a very fair price. I think this is gonna be a homerun!

Which can ruin the seal, It needs that water to cool and lubricate.

This was an issue with our Typhoon when we picked it up last year. The water line to the PSS had come undone and was just dumping water into the bilge.

Looking like that’s what I’m doing too. Good job

Gonna be a tough find to get stock one tho you may get lucky. What I did was make my own in 2017. I ordered a piece of 1/2" HDPE online. I ordered the piece a little longer and wider than needed. I used a piece of cardboard to create a template and cut it down a little at a time so it would be perfect size (leaving 1/8-3/16"" space around it so when vinyl added it will still fit. Then traced the cardboard template onto the HDPE and then cut it out. Think I paid about $60 for the piece including shipping. Link below is where I bought mine, just enter the size and thickness you want (1/2" thick is plenty...I would not go thinner than that personally) https://www.interstateplastics.com/Hdpe-Marine-Board-White-Sheet-HDPWEM~SH.php Then had local upholstery shop add the foam, padding and vinyl, think they charged me $90. Turned out really nice. 1st pic is the one they did originally with some extra vinyl the shop had laying around. 2nd pic is after I had it replaced with factory color

Love arc audio. I have used them in the past and would not hesitate to use them again.

I like arc amps, I had 5 of them in my avy and there still rock solid to this day as from what I heard from the guy that bought it off me!

Well guys, The Rockford amp didn't work out. It had a popping sound any time I turned a switch on or off and a bad whine with the blower motor running, no alternator whine. Roswell amp had no popping or whine. I troubleshot it for weeks, I think it was just a weird impedance issue with my stereo's RCA's. I ended up swapping to an ARC Audio KS300.4 for the in boats and downfires. I had to rearrange my amp rack and do a bunch of swapping around, to make the wiring work (I didn't have anymore power and ground 4ga). I should be done with all the moving around and rewiring tonight and post more pictures. Shout out to Scream Marine for working with me on troubleshooting and swapping amps out. I think the ARC sounds better also.

The hull would do it for me... the FI is the only one with Opti-V. Although the ZS is incredibly cool and the RI is just beautiful. I'd split the middle on the price and get the FI.

I believe the ri217 does have it as an option, but the fi21 does not. If you want it in an fi you need to go up to the 23 or 25.

I have an 05 sv230 and will be doing this job soon. got the cable but the damn sideswipe exhaust is the only thing that i can see really getting in my way. ill try to chime back in when im done. If you get done before me let me know what secrets you have for the enzo

@InfinitySurf thank you for taking the time. I actually met and hung out with the wake ballast guys out in Arizona this past fall at a competition. I'll definitely check out that seat riser. I'm not tall and spend alot of time driving. Thanks for the reminder. You pretty much confirmed my thoughts on silent stinger, transom bag, and ski pylon. Yes, for sure... I've seen all those BoardCo vids. They do a fantastic job! Thanks again, Mike

I didn't see this post till just now! thanks for the pictures troy! that jump is exactly what i was thinking of doing and using a Deutsche connector in case i needed extra room to knock the tower down. The only thing that I am still having a hard time getting an idea of is going from the bottom tube into the boat i see the first picture where you are showing the cables. is that base plate hollow? where is the hole that allows the wires to come out of the lower tube and into the boat.

Oh - I should also mention that I did not relocate the puck when I replaced it. I left it in the original location behind the dash.

Good thinking Troy! FYI I see you used the plastic tubing around the wires on the tower but you used the braided wire cover in the observers compartment. From my experience the braided stuff is way better... I used the plastic tubing like you did and it faded and cracked whithin the first season. The braided wire wrap lasted the entire time I owned my direct drive.

Here is the wiring jumping from the upper part of the tower to the lower part. I used a connector to be safe Incase of an issue and I need to disconnect.

From all the info I’ve herd you will list slightly on the surf side but it’s pretty even maybe a couple hundred pounds more on the surf side. Listing will definitely give you better gas consumption.

Do a custom sac. We list ours (starboard only) and the wave is great. Since you are going port side no real need for an a-plate. Just do a custom sac with a dedicated pump or two and you will be set and it wont burn much fuel. 1100's fit in the lockers but they don't fill all the way up. but I do believe you get more than 750 in them. edit: here is my thread about extra pump and stuff.. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/8473-ballast-version-2/&tab=comments#comment-104044 my custom starboard sac. https://p5.zdusercontent.com/attachment/192179/Owj7PzQnk6ft7jxCyg2c4aMUd?token=eyJhbGciOiJkaXIiLCJlbmMiOiJBMTI4Q0JDLUhTMjU2In0..Fh_1dIWoH4eYRku1nWCw4A.82VTsc1K73zYceIuKMNBU_Z8Gn8bvY6XsAvQ0kaWo4pKZDoisTVkG4M-x_9JZulEVfiea4FkPGyf5CF7EdG-LLa6CXJTo3Yelr7XOGd1XUF6J7MlNTHOtbL92L24ZwiLblV_4iE_pDtil5lBvz0DOScIY74uE8BV0dkEtmy6T9D3n8IKpbZ9Y-wh_zqOcDmPSbcJjc0nomZFHNrOyWwJzZHxyXRcRSW28oaveQ_xMzlBpDrehIjWbwM2VZl-lvfddiZGJc961N6wLVrW9bnQrw.qWguIk2qxhKMV10lz7u05A

I would remove the belt and hand check everything. Total speculation, but maybe you have a bearing that is seizing up or worn out? Something is locking up the belt and not allowing it to turn, makes sense that you should be able to feel an issue if you wiggled them all by hand to see what kind of play you have or if one does not want to turn freely (The ones you can turn without engine on, like the water pump). May even be worth having someone start the engine briefly while you are back there to see if anything is not looking right, or making weird noises. Perhaps you will find your issue that way. Good luck.

Regarding your custom sacks, could you post a picture of how you have the drain pumps hooked up? Do you have the pumps loose attached to the sack or did you use the pump bracket from the hard tank and mount the pump sitting upright? Thanks getting ready to remove the mid ship tanks on my 2008 Enzo.

Good job brother!!!

I’m currently out of town on business but I can take more pictures when I get home. I mirrored the starboard factory wire for the port side speaker wires. I used a string with a screw taped to it and a magnet to get the string through the tower then taped the wires to the string to pull the wires through the tower. When I pulled the tower up on the port side the rubber and tower had a hole through it already. I did have to drill a hole in the side of the boat. The rubber left a mark on the hull so I knew where I had to drill the hole at. Fairly easy, just time consuming and best to have a buddy help. Hope that helps. If you need more or it doesn’t make sense, let me know

Great Job man! I wish those speakers were in my range when it came to price but ill be putting something similar together for my enzo. Looks like your tower is set up similar to mine and im trying get an idea how to run the wires through the tower and down to the amps. Any way you can show some more pictures on how you routed the wires from the tower all the way down to the amps? I really want to get ideas on the jumps from tube to tube and then through the hull.

I think switching transmission to fix a goofy wave (or vice versa) is a waste of money. If you're a lister an A-plate will fix the problem. Yes Infinity Wave will fab up an A-plate or a double wing plate. We have yet to put them on our website because it's really a custom job and we don't a lot of them. If you want one please feel free to contact me.

1st pic... is the only picture I could find that shows the 45 degree angle at rear of bunk, hard to see....but this was a picture I had when my FAE was installed in 2017, you can see the angled bunk on left side of center trim plate. 2nd pic shows the boat/trailer, this was last summer when I was building my new house. 3rd pic was Oct 2018, about a month after finishing the house. I don't have any pics of the trailer without boat on it since I trailer everywhere, but I will be sure to get some before and during pics of the new bunk install. Gonna take the time to clean up the trailer really well when I remove the old bunks, touch up any areas of paint that have corrosion starting (I ordered some paint from Boatmate), and then buff and wax the entire trailer. Thinking of putting some clear 3M strips in a couple areas on trailer that are prone to rock chips to prevent future issues with that.

Did you surf the makai? I surfed one at the wake 9 polar bear the was ok with a extra 1000lbs and 8 grow men in the boat. It was about on par with the sl supra. It for sure is a big boat but the wake is nowhere close to a centurion wake and in my opinion it lacks sex appeal. I have crawled all over the zs232. It is a nice boat it's a huge boat that sits higher on the trailer then a ri257 so i expect big things from it. Given the choice between the zs232 and makai I would go supreme all day

I drove over 9 hours to get mine and would do it again in a heartbeat

Recently purchased my second boat. Went from a 20' Bayliner to this 2002 Sky Supreme V220 Pro. Had it out for the first time today. Anyone else have this year of Supreme? I have some questions about acceleration and steering. From the PNW!

Any tips on the goofy side? I’m picking mine up Thursday.....

I run with both rear locker bags full, Ramfill at 100% on surf side, 0% on non-surf side. CATS somewhere between -20 to -30 for goofy; 20 to 30 for regular. Trim tab around 20 to 30. Significantly more trim for goofy if everyone decides to sit on the port side of the boat. I had a bigger crew (4 adults, 3 kids) this past weekend and had to crank the trim past 50 to get it to clean up. I also have 200 lbs of lead in the SB locker, 150 lbs in the port locker. The corner of my rubrail on the surf side is a couple inches under water sitting still. It's about 4-5 inches under water when moving. Wave is very good. I run anywhere from 10.8 to 11.8 depending on who is surfing. My locker bags are not factory. I have a Wakemakers lbs 40"x25"x15" bag on the port side; 50"x25"x15" bag on the SB side. The 50" bag is a little too big. i ordered the boat without the PnP bags so I added all of that gear myself. It works through the touchscreen since it's a 2016 boat. i have QuickSurf but every time I use it, it kills he wave. One day I'll figure it out but my listed wave is really good this year with the lead so there's not much incentive for me to screw with it much.

The Fi21 doesn’t have the rear sliding seat, if that is something you are after.