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I just had a flawless week on Lake Powell with my 2014 SV233.

I finally got a chance to install my Gatorbak bunks after having them sit in the garage since Feb. Turned out really nice, this stuff is high quality and seems like it will stand up well. I also replaced the 2x6 with pressure treated and decided to install new lag bolts (galvanized)....I may thru bolt a few of the connections later this summer. 1st 2 pics show the carpet on my 2014 Boatmate. It was getting pretty worn and had torn on one of the front bunks. One thing that bugged me about the carpet is that it collects debris and scratches my black hull no matter how carefully I load my boat. Also, the bunks stay wet for like 3 days after dunking the trailer. Next 2 pics show 3 of the 6 bunks installed (excuse the messy garage, I need to organize it)....I forgot to get final pictures with all the Gatorbak bunks installed since I dropped boat in water to do the work on trailer and after removing the old bunks found that the brackets on trailer had rust starting so I sanded/primed/painted all the brackets to stop the corrosion...this put me behind schedule so I was in a rush at very end to go pull the boat back out since it got dark on me. I will update final pics when I drop the boat in next time. Final 2 pics are of a 4ft bunk with the Gatorbak on it. Initially I did not order the end caps and was going to fabricate my own thinking I needed to do the 45 degree angles on the bunks like they came from factory but did not like how they turned out and also realized that the 45 degree angles were not needed, so I went ahead and ordered 12 of the end caps. I think it gives it a more finished look. The one thing I wish I had done was order the black color stainless screws, they were much more expensive than the regular stainless, guess they are not that noticeable tho. Total for Gatorbak was about $550. $453 for the pieces of Gatorbak I needed.....$72 for the 12 end caps plus the stainless screws. I forgot what I paid for the new pressure treated 2x6 and the new galvanized lag screws and washers. All in all tho I think it was well worth it since its not something I should have to worry about again, no more wet carpet bunks against the hull for days risking blistering the gelcoat and no more scratching my black hull.

Oh sorry, I thought that they both were based on the same main section. Just extra supports. Looked very close. I would still think Centurion may be able to assist. Thanks!

I "think" a drift to one side is normal due to prop rotation but a hard "pull" would not be normal. Also (I am really trying to be mature here and hold in my giggles) but how does one grease their rudder? Ive never done this in the 4ish years Ive owned my 2000 Elite.

Yep I went to the same event and now have a shiny new Fi25 sitting in my shop. Love this boat

Nice speaking with you Nick, just to update others... our unit is mounted tucked away under the platform above the waters running surface. So zero effect on wake and boat performance while underway.

Everything is back together. No leakage at all now. No vibration at all. So far so good. I left it in the water on the dock. Still makes me nervous that its going to sink. lol. I could do a full write up if anyone needs help with changing this part out. The scariest part was jacking my boat up from the back end to remove the rudder. I only had a floor jack. Wish I had 2 stands to jack it up from the hooks in the back but I had to go with what I had.

FYI....one thing I did that helped a lot. The Gatorbak comes in tight rolls, so before cutting it to size and doing my install, I laid them out on the new 2x6 bunks in the sun for the day to relax the rubber. I think it made the install go smoother. I took my time on the install to make sure both sides looked as straight as possible and used clamps to hold it in place while I drilled the holes for the screws. I placed a screw every 8" along each side. Install instructions were good and I cut the Gatorbak bunks 1/4" longer than the actual measurement between the end caps so the ends would be tight (I mention this cause I did not do that on the first one and ended up with 1/8" space no matter how tight I pulled and ended up going back and cutting down the 2x6 a little so it would turn out perfect). I also first pre-drilled/screwed off each end so ends would stay tight before screwing together the rest of the bunks on.

Looks great!!

Byerman, I just went through this on my 2014 SV233. In the beginning My screen acted the same way yours is doing. I would turn off batteries, then trip all breakers. Look under the helm and inside the observer's seat. There are also 2 plugs in the back of the touchscreen, I would unhook those as well. After letting set for a minute I would plug back in and it would work. I was assuming that I might have left the key and touchscreen on while towing at 75mph and this created the problem because my GPS and ZeroOff would not work but never had this confirmed. So the end result was a touchscreen replacement that I replaced in the winter of 2018-2019. I was able to have this issue covered under warranty so I'm not sure of the cost but rumor has it 1500-3500 dollars which is ridiculous if you take into consideration on what a new Mac desktop costs. Better bring this screen issue to the dealer because this is a known failure and if they are new they might not know and depending on when you purchased your boat you might be at the end of your warranty.

After reading the suggestions here, I removed the batteries and called Fred's Marine in Layton. Centurion is relatively new to them but they are the dealer. Fred called Centurion and asked them about the problem. He explained to me that the screen has a different electrical supply than the screen. It made sense that the screen seemed to work but none of the accessories worked. He suggested that it could be a simple tripped breaker. It was not a tripped breaker but it seemed to be an electrical problem. I followed the wires from the batteries to the computer. I took the wires off of the breakers and all looked fine. When I put everything back together, the computer all of the accessories worked. I haven't taken it out yet but with the computer running the valves normally entering "trailer mode," I think that it will work on the lake. Thanks for all of the comments.

All of our Malibu customers have been happy. They are on VLX, VTX, LSV, and I believe the MXZ as well.

I think that would work quite well and switching sides would not take long at all. If I remember right, Quickfill is about 500lbs per side. Next time I get out, I plan to try running ballast fully level without any list to see how the wave compares. My guess is that it will also be quite good if not as good, since my buddy with GSA runs level. If that is the case, you would not need to stop at all for transfers. Since one of the reasons I wanted this Infinity Wave tab system is so I can work on surf transfers, running level and the wave being as good would be perfect. On the initial lake test, I ran the same set up as I was running with my Nauticurl suck gate since I wanted to compare the surf wave. Part of the reason I had some list with the Nauticurl was to bring the gate up a bit since there is only one good place on the hull to stick it where the gate is fairly level with water (below the 1st step down on the side of hull), like surf gate systems, if you bury the gate too far in the water the wave is not as clean or powerful. If gate is out of water too much, then you are getting a rooster tail of water and it tend to come in the side vents at transom. We just did not have enough time out to test everything I wanted to last Weds. I also want to see how the goofy side wave looks tho I am sure it will be great since at least on my boat, goofy side is a little bigger/better due to prop spin. I will be sure to get more pics and info next time out and post up that info as well. On storage, I am in a little better shape I guess. Since I also run the bow bag under bow seats and put lead under the bow filler cushion I lose the bow (when kids are not out, that is where I put the docking fenders and extra boards/bags)...but with Ramfill instead of Quickfill, I have the 2 areas under side seats since I don't have PnP bags there and those lockers are not very deep cause of the Ramfill tanks, but that works well for life jackets, anchor, ropes, etc...and course I have the area under observers seat as well. Doesn't really bother me tho since I trailer and only take what I need for that day.

Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.

Hey Byerman.. I completely hear you and am so empathetic when reading your post. That sounds nearly identical to what I've been through this past year-- right down to losing ALL confidence in dragging the thing clear to Lake Powell and having it fail. TWO failed trips last summer (electrical failure - wouldn't start, and then pulley's failing the next week) and then the shaft drilling a hole in the gas tank a few weeks ago on our first day there (actually ALL incidents were the first day every time :-/ ).. That said, I'm not really sure what MY advice would be. As several others have pointed-out in this thread alone, all boats have issues and it's luck of the draw. I've also had several business associates and friends over the past few months reminding me of this very point. However, given so many of the "common" issues and compounded or 'severity' of the issues that we've had with Centurion, it simply HAS to be create a sense of bias and an argument AGAINST when considering a Centurion again. And, clearly, in the 3-4 years since your boat was built, the QC issues continue-- consistent or not, they're there. I've got two close friends with Nautiques and two with Malibu 23LSV's. One of the Nautiques (a 2018) had total engine failure on the second time out and had to have them replace the engine entirely. The others have all just had minor issues like throttle (by wire) linkage issues and various small hinge or interior problems. So I DO agree that all boats are just made with a different sense of QC than a car (given the fact that there are so many less moving parts that it's simply ironic). I also know of (not personally) a couple people with 2017 Ri257's like mine who've only had a couple of the issues I've had which were quickly resolved and they're completely happy since purchase. Also know of a guy with a new Mastercraft X46 who's had no issues since purchase last spring. I guess it really boils down to which roulette table you wanna roll your dice on. As I said early-on (a few weeks ago) in this thread, the lay-out, size, and functionality of the Ri257 has me hooked-enough that I'm gonna put my faith in this new '19 I ordered and hope I have a good experience moving forward. None of my buddies' boats really impress me (size, gas mileage, layout, or functionality) quite as much as mine has. However, another year (2017 & 2018) like I've had without even feeling confident in taking a group out for an entire day and I'll never utter the word Centurion again. Bottom line-- it's a toss up. Sorry about your experience. If it's been anything like mine, the expense of boat ownership didn't even come CLOSE to non-ownership.

I'd go over to wakegarage, it's a site for the do it your selfer type guy. There are a lot of guys who have made slapper kits, and a few who have done the trim tab route. There are also a bunch of home grown wake plates, one guy has one with the exhaust in it. Even if you don't see exactly what you are thinking it's a good place to spitball your ideas and get feedback. It isn't brand specific and there is no My boat is bigger than your boat stuff. Mostly guys with slightly older boats doing home brew projects to try to get something comparable to the newer boats. also good info on boat maintenance etc. for the do it your self guy. I don't own the site, I don't get a commission, the site is free and I am not trying to down talk this site, I love it here, but for the projects I think that's the place.

You have a cracked exhaust manifold and or riser.. If it was a head gasket you would get water in the oil.

Nice Rhunt glad it was nothing major! I need to suggest something you need on the boat though...... https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=ipad+screen+cleaner+wipes&tag=hydsma-20&index=aps&hvadid=175283458217&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=651082244542889640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031894&hvtargid=kwd-41992571155&ref=pd_sl_2g2a3u61ik_b&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7-fatNKY1QIV1LfACh2VyAo8EAAYASAAEgKA2_D_BwE lol

If you're just talking about the engine oil, it's basically the same as a car except easier because the remote oil filter is a lot easier to get to. Personally with warm engine I just pull the drain plug on the stern and run the oil drain tube out the drain hole then over the side of the wake plate and into a bucket. 15w-40 is recommended and I won't get into the brand name oil wars, but FWIW I use Rotella.

LMAO! Yep, I think it's ridiculous that we have to make a "normal/none" rider profile to just have everything "square". What's the purpose of the "deactivate" button? Doesn't seem to do anything for me!

Going to steal Dark's thunder, create a user profile called "none" with everything neutral and empty and just select it when done