beau t

I did a new shaft and bushings last year and found my shaft/gearbox off a little. Instead of dropping the rudder i chose to pull the v-drive gear box off, its a easy job a couple connectors and water lines, either 4 or 6 nuts hold it onto the transmission shaft and pulls off, mine had a seal leaking between the 2 so i needed to replace it anyhow. There are plenty of vids or write-ups explaining how to do the alignment, a shop is not going to be as critical on this as you will be (in my opinion), i got mine down to 2 thousands when i started it was 18thousands but didn't have to bad of a viberation.

if removing the cap kept it running did it shut back off when you reinstalled the cap? Im only asking because here we have dirtdobbers that like to build (nest?) in open lines which could be a vent line maybe?

Have the injectors been cleaned or replaced, do all of the spark plugs look the same as in is 1 black or a different shade than the rest. I didn't see anything listed about this above. with a car you can do a distribution test to check the injectors and should be able to do it with a marine engine to but i have not got to play with a computer that hooks up to marine engines to verify. this is just throwing out ideas since you have a long list above of stuff thats been done. Also can you free rev the motor and it not cut up?

Are you referring to the filter for the ballast? Either way if its clear don't spray it with brake clean to get the trash out of the bottom mine turned white instead of clear from it lol. if you can find a strap wrench thats plastic instead of metal i would try that but be careful! I do industrial maintenance and we have bigger versions (kinda)of the housing you are talking about and have a special wrench to install and remove the housing i would imagine they make a smaller version of it if you would feel more comfortable with that maybe a marina would sell it? This is at west marine it may not be the correct 1 i just picked a pic not knowing the right size. Clearance

Hey all, As i was getting around to draining my boat for the winter i dropped 1 of the blue plugs into the bottom of the boat, while searching for it i found a bolt head and then the plug. The bolt head had me curious so i got looking to figure out what it was from and found 1 of the bolts that goes down to the holding water bulb(??) broke and 1 of the bolts for the alternator broke on the pulley side, the other broke bolt that went to the water bulb also has the alternator bracket under it. I took it apart and got the broke bolts out to replace, so i got online to search and this seems to be a very common problem so when its time to put your boat back into service you may want to give it a glance. From what i read i was 1 of the lucky ones it never left me stranded on the lake so I'm grateful lol.

Have you tried spraying it with some kind of penetrating oil , normally its the o-ring that has froze up (in my experience), I'm guessing you have already tried a filter wrench also? Anyhow after you get it off when installing the new 1 if you will put a little dielectric grease around the o-ring it will make it easier to get off just don't go crazy with it just a light film around it. Now if you have to pull it off it looks like it has o-rings around #11 and #12 make sure you have wrenches on #5 and#6 to back hold them while breaking loose #11 and #12 - inspect the o-rings for damage and replace if needed. Edit if this sounds elementary i don't mean it that way just don't know your mechanical ability, and nice job providing a pic for us to know what your asking.

FREE WHEELING By HOOGE, March 15, 2010 in Centurion Boats General Discussion If this doesn't take you to the discussion put it in the search up top it will give you a better understanding of the steering system. Im not a computer guru so if it didn't take you to the discussion my apologies lol

I did mine over the winter, the shaft had a grove in it so i also replaced it, had a minute leak on the transmission v-drive gearbox input shaft so i also pulled it out and replaced it to. i pulled the seal out searched for a new one to find out they wanted to sale a whole gasket kit, luckily i was able to read the numbers off of the old seal and cross reference to another brand. I could of had it done in a day if i didn't keep getting sidetracked.

I have a 07 elite v c4 with the perfect pass it is in the upper right hand corner of the gauge layout, maybe 3.5 to 4 in, and congrats on the new boat!

I bought mine with no manuals either (Elite c4) and so far i have been able to figure out any issue that has came up, if your able to work on your own stuff you can probably figure out just about anything needed if not the members on here are more than happy to help out from what i have found, there is a lot of knowledge on this site.

Nice write up i have thought about adding something in the front of my 07 but haven't made it that far yet, all i have seen are the speakers in the sides so this is a different approach and its hidden i like it.

My 07 has the standard motor (not scorpion) that has a drain attached to the top side of the exhaust riser left side looking at the motor from in the boat, its a oil drain that can be feed out the drain hole at the back of the boat to drain the oil out if you are unable to get oil extractor tube all the way in. This method will probably take longer but you can start draining it and come back hours later and it will be drained if its a cold motor.

sorry wrote switch should of put sensor thanks RUNTIII for replying

does the light stay on after you get above the 1000 or 1500(?) rpm thats specified on the sticker above or below the light, The light should go off at 2PSI or higher form what i read from another site, if its not going off above 1200 rpm but you can't find anything wrong its probably the switch from what I'm reading the switch will set the light if it goes bad - makes sense but it would be nice to know for sure before buying a switch. Hopefully someone with better insight will chime in.

Does it pop the fuse if you move them with the boat stopped in the water? Have you put a amp meter on it to see what kind of load is being applied? Does it have any kind of sticker on it stating what the amp load max is? Im going to assume it either has limit switches or a encoder are you going past the mechanical limits before it blows the fuse as in its in a mechanical bind. Like i stated previously i have never worked on these but this would be what I'm checking. Side note if the computer that originally ran it is not operational can you find a local shop that rebuilds lets say instrument clusters for cars to see if they could repair it ? I do industrial maintenance and we have a local to us guy that repairs our motor drives that may be another avenue to investigate.