rhino89523

What he said ^ numbers are usually printed close to helm. If that doesn't work you can use the length. If you don't have a removable floor pull a fish through when you remove the cable to save you some time on the install.

I can't wit for your review of the Camera. I thought about doing that on my boat. I have a camera I installed on my Motorhome and have cameras factory installed on my truck and wife's car. I have glare issues...not sure if it is just my eyes getting old or what. Screens mess with me a bit so I am curious how you will like the mirror/camera in the sunlight. Your installs are top notch.

My prop guy has turned into a buddy so we kind of mess around with pitch, cup, size etc. ....It isn't a perfect science. I would call them up and ask them what they can do. Let them know you are low on rpm when tugging heavy or whatever and see what they can do. From my experimentation with props over the years I have found bigger ears give better thrust but cost you on the top, four ears instead of 3 can sometimes give you a little bit of the best of both worlds scenario. pitch is pitch and is fairly predictable in results, cups I like a little cup but my old boat seemed to spin out if I put too much cup on it in the turns. The important numbers they usually want are RPM's...the problem for most of us is we tug so heavy. It used to be just what is your wide open RPM when you have the throttle maxed, if it was above the range of said given motor you took more pitch and if it was below it you flatten it out. My current prop on an empty boat you would probably blow up the motor if you ran it wide across the lake but she sit's nice on the RPM's now when tugging. Try to find someone in Washington you can talk to, if not I can give you the number to my prop guy with a warning...A lot of people don't like his demeanor and he is so busy I don't think he cares a bunch who likes him and who doesn't. For whatever reason I get along with him really well.

Which can ruin the seal, It needs that water to cool and lubricate.

Boat, Truck, Stereo....all looks unbelievable from my vantage point, I have to be thankful for what I have not what I don't have but looking at your set up makes me feel like I'm in the Ghetto...haha!!! I'm not a hater good on you, really really nice looking install.

Could be a water leak somewhere in the motor that only dumps when the motor is running and the sea water pump is bringing water up to the boat. There is the line that goes to that PSS seal as well as every other water line to the motor and exhaust. I'm just guessing and grabbing at straws.

If you have a serpentine belt You have an idler pulley probably more like 2 with the tensioner. They have little skateboard wheel bearings in there and they go out all the time. I'd do like infinity said, you have to pull the belt anyway, you might be surprised what you can feel. not knowing Your boat you also have 2 water pumps the one that runs the motor and the sea water pump or whatever they call it and those both will have a belt. The water pump for the motor usually blows out the weep hole in the bottom bearing when it takes a dump, and you will be able to wobble it most likely when the bearing goes. The sea water pump is jammed in there so tight, if it is jamming up you are probably losing chunks of rubber and you want to get that out of there and service it before it passes that garbage everywhere.

I did mine on my Avy and it took me a little over an hour. The big nut is a mean woman but you can get it. I cut mine at the helm bound it together with the new one and just pulled the new one through with the old one. Hooked it up in the back centered it up and attached it to the helm...done. I was all prepped thinking it was going to suck because I knew what they wanted at the boat repair shop and it was really easy...I had to follow it up with a new seal, and shaft bearing...still not bad but much worse than the cable. Aligning the motor takes a little doing.

When you send that prop off, most prop guys can change pitch and cups...I forget the extent with a brass prop but if memory serves its like one on pitch with a little more flexibility on cup but for me cup only affects the top anyway the pitch seems to be the factor that makes it the tug boat..

I have some Ghetto sumo sack or something under the walkway, and another big like 800 sumo I fill up over the walkway until it's bulging over the edge. I run one of those bags that runs up under the port side to the observer and fills the locker. I don't fill my center tank because for whatever reason at altitude with a 911 prop it wont push it when the center is full but I can swamp the rear with the other ones and it's fine. I run a homemade gate as well and it works sweet. I usually have enough people to keep the bow down but have another 800 I can fill if needed. I personally need it with a little bow high attitude to stay engaged, I weigh like 260 and am 6'4"....my kids I can run it without even having a bag full, no gate, just whatever and they can surf in another time zone.

Tower looks sweet, I dig the naked look of the boat without the stickers on the side as well. Really nice looking boat.

I have no idea but most of the cables have some white lettering on them about 6" down from the attachment point, that number usually has the length as the last part of the number or you can go to the google cave and get the info using that part number. That's all I have got, sorry can't be more helpful.

1/2" outer square I can usually break with a big crescent wrench worst case scenario, they also make a socket for this if need be in 1/2" and 3/8" drive. For the 1/2" inner square I just use a 1/2" drive socket wrench. Not sure why you need to get this undone but if it's for an oil change I just do mine through the top side with an extractor.

You have to pull the coupler to replace the shaft seal but you can move the shaft by pulling on it after the coupler bolts are removed. If the coupler is towards the front like the one you can see in Davetres pictures above, do like the guys say and use a puller. If the coupler is under and behind the Vdrive undo the 4 bolts, pull on the shaft, from under the boat if you have to, it helps to twist it a little while you pull. Make enough room you can get a socket wrench in there and remove the nut, there is also a set screw on the side of the coupler. once the nut is removed and the set screw loose pull the couplers together enough you can get a socket on top of the shaft...you will be using this as a puller basically. Now you need 4 nuts and bolts that are long enough you can pull the two coupler halves together with the socket between them and the socket will push the shaft out. After the shaft pops loose from the coupler you can either replace the seal or slide the shaft all the way out and do cutlass bearings as well. Some boats the shaft will slide by the rudder once the prop is removed, some you have to remove the rudder. To replace just the seal you should be able to do it without completely pulling the shaft make sure to use something over the shaft threads when you install the seal, most kits come with a protector. Dont forget to check alignment when you put the whole thing back together.

I'd call a prop repair shop, My prop guy has hundreds of props all over the place in varying levels of hammered to fixed.