rhino89523

Mine is a 47-862232A 2 that I think got replaced with 47-8M0104229 for mercury numbers or I have run the Sierra 18-3016-1 but all of these numbers are sea water pump specific, I know for my year boat there were 2 possibilities and the difference was weather the housing was metal or plastic. As far as doing the job goes it's pretty easy, pull your belt off first, then decide if you are going to deal with it in place or remove the whole housing. For me it was easier to pull the whole thing off of there and put it all together keeping everything clean etc on the workbench instead of laying in my ski locker. You almost can't screw it up other than pushing the pump vanes in with the wrong direction. Take a picture when you get the cover plate off or remember which way the pump vanes oriented themselves. Put a little groovy lube or whatever you are using as lube on the impeller and just twist it into the housing the direction you want the vanes to flow, put the cover back on with the Oring and remount the housing and you are done. It's pretty tight back in there but not all that bad. I don't have the other part number. I am in pretty good with a local boat shop, so I just took mine apart and then went in with the impeller in my hand. They probably have them on the wall at west marine or wherever you go for boat stuff.

I'm not Mr Centurion so don't totally know your motor, if it's a Chevy the solenoid is on the starter, it's the smaller round thing that all the wires go to and you are looking for one of the smaller wire posts that sit on solenoid. If it's a Ford motor the solenoid stands alone. Either way look for your starter. If the starter has one big battery terminal size wire to it...chase that back to where the wire connects, thats the solenoid, if it has more than one wire your staring at the solenoid.

I run one of those enzo style sacks that fills the whole locker and under the seats up to the observer, then I think it's like a 400lb in the locker under the walkthrough with an 800lb filled as far as it will go in the walkway, usually have enough people to keep the bow down but when it's just the boys out I throw another 800 filled mushy so probably 500ish up front...then a home made suck gate and the wave works pretty good.

I seem to remember some guys actually having problems with plastic distributor bases on some motors a few years back where the heat had warped the base of the distributor so the cap wasn't fitting right, I think by pushing down on the cap it went away so he replaced the distributor and it was fixed. I'd look at it first of course before throwing more money at it. If everything else checks out I'm leaning toward an ECM malfunction since you have other random electrical stuff going on but don't take my word for that....ECM's are like a G

You have three things going on. Sounds like neutral switch you have out of the equation. So now you are pretty much down to the starter solenoid or the switch both can be tested with a test light. From under the dash your switch has three or 4 poles, you just need to find the one that usually only has one wire to it and make sure when you turn the key that pole lights. Same on the solenoid look for the small wire that is connected to it...whatever end isn't lighting up that's the problem.

Don't know your truck at all, but many trucks have an actuator that comes off the rear axle back up to the frame that controls bias of the braking system so that when you put a load in the back of the truck it can sense the weight and knows you can use more braking bias into the rear of the truck. I'm going with that as the possible culprit because I feel like you would know if your brakes were straight up bad. Your truck brakes I am thinking you would hear the metal to metal contact if they were straight up gone...doesn't mean you shouldn't check them but if they are discs they have a warning tab on the pad that squeaks annoyingly before you hit metal and drums just start sounding horrible when you hit metal to metal. I personally never top off my brake fluid, I can tell where my pads or shoes are at by where the fluid is in my master, then I bleed/flush when I replace the pads. Master will be full when the pads are fresh.

I made a gate with a suction cup glass handler from amazon, attached a leash to it for like $8 and 2 shelf brackets, 2 deep sockets as spacers to get the angle and a cutting board from Walmart. I'm in the whole set up maybe $30 and it works perfect...I'll be building an automated system next. It's just too easy to build one...The Ronix set up guys have replicated with a plastic skateboard ramp off Amazon that was like $20 I think. Don't spend hundreds of dollars, all it does is delay convergence and about $30 on Amazon will get you everything you need all stainless parts or a plastic skate ramp and some velcro. Pic a lane and just build it, takes like 10 minutes and all you need is a drill to build a suction gate. The skate ramp just takes a bunch of velcro and the ramp. Guys have also built ones that attach to the swim deck instead of the side of the boat.

I weigh 280 and have zero problems surfing behind my Avy with a walkway and I'm goofy. It took me a minute to figure it out and I am an ocean surfer. I like my suckgate wave better than my listed wave for push....my kids can surf in another time zone.

I use the RV stuff but could use the green as my neighborhood has no cats, they just don't last long between Coyotes, Raccoons and the bigger cats. I try to bring home a six pack of ferals from the ranch every now and then for rodent control. Sometimes one will stay around for a while mostly I think they re-enter the food chain.

More weight with a suck gate is how we are rolling, automated would work good too. Wake garage has a bunch of projects with guys building automated.

I thought those used MR43LTS gapped at .45 or Platinum 41-932 or 41-993 @.60 Either way even if my numbers are wrong I would stick with AC for a Chevy motor, autolites on a Ford keep the NGK or ND's for the imports and the Bosch plugs for the germans. For whatever reason the manufacturers OE stuff seems to run the best for me.

You could do the line pinch and narrow it down, if you just pinch the water line that goes to the shaft seal before pulling it out of the water it would eliminate that line and any water coming out of there would be bilge water. You could also just leave your plug in on the trailer and fill your bilge with water, if it starts leaking as soon as the level gets even with the shaft seal it would be an easy sell to the dealer. I'm sure they don't want to do the work...shaft seal replacement sucks and it comes with an engine alignment that also sucks....pretty time consuming job. My best friend lives in Durango, great town.

Most of those new dripless seals have a water supply line attached, depending what outlet they used to attach to the seal housing you could be pulling pressurized water off the motor, or draining some sort of engine cooling line. If you can get half a look at where your prop shaft seal line hooks up for coolant you could pinch it off for a minute before pulling it out of the water to be sure. The only other possibility is the shaft seal itself is leaking and you would know because your whole bilge would be full of water. There is simply not enough space in the housing for it to hold that much water....my guess is you are draining the orifice the seals coolant line is hooked to and probably not a big deal at all. I am not a dealer or a boat mechanic as a profession...I just work on everything myself or I cant own a multitude of toys I would barely be able to afford one. So take my guess for what its worth....near nothing, ask my wife.

O.K. I got back on this over the weekend as all my parts showed up and I wasn't working on other things or on vacation. Everything went in very easy but aligning the motor/vdrive to the shaft, getting the coupler to within a thousandth (they say 3 thousands I was able to get 1) was not that easy and took a few hours of tweaking motor mounts. Other than that, nuts and bolts. My shaft was way out...probably what ruined my cutlass bearings. Boat is new to me and at this point I think I have addressed most all of the things that run under the motor that people say are a pain in the tush.

I'm a vinegar guy for water spots. I polish when I put it away at the end of the year with Meguiars products, depends how it's looking for what product...ie how much cut I want or just a polish, High speed buffer for that. I wipe down after each use as I'm a trailer guy as well. I like furniture polish for my one step wax between full polishes, I use furniture polish on my Harley as well. Interior I like the 303 for Vinyl , I used highly diluted purple power on my gatorstep copy product with a stiff brush for any stains and I used a magic eraser (very light they are abrasive) on my vinyl for any spots. For me the interior is easier to keep clean by controlling the products I let on the boat...cheetos or any orange colored chip or cracker, sunflower seeds, cigarettes, red wine, are some of the products on my current banned list. I make concessions for smokers and allow them to smoke while standing on the swim platform and my wife has been known to sneak on a bag of Doritos from time to time. She is a clean freak and in much better shape than me or most anyone really so I have learned to let her get away with a bit more.