rhino89523

I have no idea but most of the cables have some white lettering on them about 6" down from the attachment point, that number usually has the length as the last part of the number or you can go to the google cave and get the info using that part number. That's all I have got, sorry can't be more helpful.

1/2" outer square I can usually break with a big crescent wrench worst case scenario, they also make a socket for this if need be in 1/2" and 3/8" drive. For the 1/2" inner square I just use a 1/2" drive socket wrench. Not sure why you need to get this undone but if it's for an oil change I just do mine through the top side with an extractor.

You have to pull the coupler to replace the shaft seal but you can move the shaft by pulling on it after the coupler bolts are removed. If the coupler is towards the front like the one you can see in Davetres pictures above, do like the guys say and use a puller. If the coupler is under and behind the Vdrive undo the 4 bolts, pull on the shaft, from under the boat if you have to, it helps to twist it a little while you pull. Make enough room you can get a socket wrench in there and remove the nut, there is also a set screw on the side of the coupler. once the nut is removed and the set screw loose pull the couplers together enough you can get a socket on top of the shaft...you will be using this as a puller basically. Now you need 4 nuts and bolts that are long enough you can pull the two coupler halves together with the socket between them and the socket will push the shaft out. After the shaft pops loose from the coupler you can either replace the seal or slide the shaft all the way out and do cutlass bearings as well. Some boats the shaft will slide by the rudder once the prop is removed, some you have to remove the rudder. To replace just the seal you should be able to do it without completely pulling the shaft make sure to use something over the shaft threads when you install the seal, most kits come with a protector. Dont forget to check alignment when you put the whole thing back together.

I'd call a prop repair shop, My prop guy has hundreds of props all over the place in varying levels of hammered to fixed.

I'd pull the drain plugs and blow out a heater if you have it. I'd also change my oil before storage...I just like storing on fresh oil.

I had to do real similar, when I bought my boat they had slammed the dock or something. I got a real good deal on the boat because of this and thought "I can live with some scratches" I didn't even make it all the way home before the OCD kicked in and I stopped at an autoparts store and started test sanding /polishing one of the areas. My wife was flipping out on me when we hadn't even used the boat yet and I am out in the backyard removing all the stickers and have the sides of the boat all wet sanded...which actually looks like crap until after you polish the boat. I basically stayed up half the night polishing the boat with my wife shaking her head and thinking i'd lost my mind. When we used it the next morning she was O.K. the boat I like better without the tribal Avalanche stickers, and the scratches removed I think raised the boat value a good 5g or so...they were deep. I used the same process as infinity...but started grittier.

I like AC plugs in Chevy motors, the number you listed I believe is an AC number and at $6 each I'm betting are iridium . I'd buy them from amazon...I will put money PCM isn't making there own plug so I would not be paying their markup to get an AC box.

Ripping!!!!! @DarksideR

For me filters and oil come from Walmart, impellers come from a local boat shop. They are really cool to me, I make Christmas wreaths at Christmas and bring them one, they go easy on the markup on me for parts...about the same as I get online and they let me drill them in the offseason for advise. I have a local prop guy for props or if I hit something can straighten me out on the shaft or strut. I do all of my own work but try to keep good relationships with local people who deal with stuff. My stupid Christmas wreaths seem to go a long way, 12 packs do as well. I just let these guys know I appreciate them if they help me or hook me up with parts, advise or whatever. I don't know what the magic formula is but it seems like maybe a lot of boat owners in my area are super demanding or tough to deal with. The guys working on this stuff seem to dig talking a little shop with someone who does their own work and understands the struggles they deal with first hand.

I forgot about the whole fuel game, You need to stabilize the fuel...I'll steer clear of the best stabilizer argument and you pick the brand but you need to stabilize the fuel. There are differing theory's on this as well and most of it relates to the ethanol blended fuel being hygroscopic...O.K. my spelling might be wrong but it means it wants to absorb moisture from air. Some people fill the tank because that doesn't allow room for the moisture i.e.water, others go halfway and then take a fresh shot of fuel at the start of a new season. I go with sort of the latter, On my last few runs of the year I make the trip across town and get the blue gas available at one station in my town...this is the non ethanol stuff. I run that on my last few runs and think I probably get most of the ethanol out of there, I go about halfway at the end, stabilize that and take a fresh shot at the start of the season. Fogging is another one, you cant fog down the neck like you could back in the old carb days. I have seen a few different ways to do it and I think PCM and Merc both recommend mixing up a cocktail of gas/stabil and 50-1 two stroke in an auxiliary fuel tank and running that for like 10 minutes or something...last I check I think they were still recommending this for the boats with Cats as well, but I can't imagine a cat would be loving two stroke oil. I run my boat on my freshly stabilized fuel for a bit to get everything warmed up. Then I change all my fluids etc. When I change my fuel filter I add a little elixir in the filter, then install the filter, turn the ignition on and fill the filter, start the boat and let it get nice and smokey, then kill it. My technique is not the preferred technique recommended, it's just what I do and it is not correct. Cruise the internet, there are so many theory's on fogging and storing, and so many arguments on what products to use, pick a lane and go for it...talk to your local dealer or boat shop and see what they are doing. My local shop has been on the seafoam thing for a while and having good luck so that's what I have been using. Full disclosure, I decided to not steer clear of the what product argument, I do not work for seafoam, I don't have any documents or graphs showing anything relevant to anything, I am a total backyard mechanic, I barely graduated high school, All my time in college was focused on football and I never finished my degree, So I'm really just a guy with a bunch of tools and access to google.

http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2018.pdf Here is a chart for 2018, not sure if you guys have seen this...or something like it. You have to scroll down to where the chart is for the ratings...I didn't see a half ton that will tow 12,200 but I just took a quick glance. @InfinitySurf

I do all my own service on everything I own, If I owned your boat I would do it, it isn't that hard. I don't know the particulars of your boat but it is essentially oil changes in motor and checks or changes in tranny and drive, water dump or replacement with coolant, dealing with impeller....many go every other year, couple lube points and inspections, wax it up, clean it out, make sure its dry, cover it up, wait for summer. I like doing my own services and maintenance, the only negative I can think of is if something goes wrong I can't go on the internet and rant about my mechanic...I have to look in the mirror and yell at that guy.

If you space turning the pump off it will burn the impeller up. No big deal on the in because you have water running through it and it will just blow out the overflow but when you reverse and pump out if you run it dry you are spinning a rubber impeller up against the housing wall with no coolant. on mine the switch got bumped and I started smelling burnt rubber. Also after a bunch of years those impellers can get brittle and crack.

I'd go 4x4, you could probably get by most of the time with 2wd but 4x4 makes it a sure thing. The MPG difference isn't that huge on the Sequoia as it is with other cars. I think it's only like 3/4 of a MPG between the 2 rated combined mpg.

Going with more pitch on the prop in theory should make it worse. If you are running a 12 pitch going to a 14.25 pitch will be worse. The second number...pitch is essentially how far the boat will move per revolution of motor, for pulling you want that second number to be lower, but 12 is already pretty low, usually somewhere around 10 is as low as you can get....you may have a motor issue or just be too weighted. You may have to do a reduction on the gears in your V-drive depending what gears you are currently running.