Jump to content

rhino89523

Crew
  • Content count

    149
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

rhino89523 last won the day on June 24

rhino89523 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

28 Excellent

About rhino89523

  • Rank
    Rope Thrower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Reno, NV
  • Interests
    Boating, Dirtbikes, Timbersleds, old cars, motorcycles

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Avalanche

Recent Profile Visitors

576 profile views
  1. I'm with Troy, I would run it until it started making noise you will probably be O.K. we have a snow blower at work that runs an 90 degree angle box to get from the John Deere motor to the fan. It fills with water from it being packed in snow going through heat cycles and it sucks water in through the breather vent. It runs in varying degrees of contaminated fluid depending on time of year usage etc. Its a 1976 and still works great and I've never had to change out bearings in that box. We even forgot to store it on clean fluid one year and it still works. Before getting beaten up...no I don't recommend water in the gearbox but you have done everything you can for now other than running it. Heat is good to burn out water in fluids. All motors and gears boxes pull in a little condensation and running them is what burns it out. Point of my whole rant...run it for now you will probably be fine. There isn't a lot going on inside those V drives.
  2. Prop Seal drip

    Old style shaft seal is meant to leak a little past the seal, it is usually the other way from the lake into the boat not from the boat onto the driveway but it is designed to leak a drip or two for the lubrication as stated above. the new style seals get lube from the motor and push that through for lube so it is possible the motor is draining out a bit...mine does for a while after I run it on the fake a lake and when moving it around the house.
  3. Pss shaft seal install

    If you were just replacing the seal I think you might be able to do it without removing the prop. In my case I needed to replace the cutlass bearing as the reason and replaced the seal because I was already there.
  4. Are you weighted at all when it wont get on to plane? will the boat rev up when not in gear? How did you get the prop specs needed? was it the exact same with the old prop? when the boat isn't in gear and is sitting on the trailer can you spin the prop somewhat easily by hand. You could have something going on with the motor You could have too much pitch on the prop for the weight and elevation you are running. You could have some bind somewhere in the drive train like an extremely out of alignment shaft or hammered bearings...you would probably hear this. My guess is you still have too much prop, no way to really know unless you can really lighten your load, go to a lake at a much lower elevation, or buy/barrow another one. Any idea what prop you have? The pitch should be stamped on it by the nut.
  5. I don't know your boat at all, but most props are stamped right where the nut that holds it on is. Look at that first and it should give you a diameter and pitch. Then you need to think about what you want it to do vs what it is currently doing. At that point you should be able to talk to either a prop guy or one of the companies that sell props and see what they suggest. A lot of the prop houses have a suggestion guide and maybe your boat is listed. I prefer to go off the existing prop and go from there. Generally more blades, bigger ears, flatter pitch make more thrust but cost on speed. I personally have a local prop guy who I work with and we try stuff and I just see what I like and what works best. He lets me try things and as long as I don't ding them I don't have to buy them. You can play with the cup as well. I know I just sent you on a goose chase but you really can narrow down what you want to do by starting with what you have.
  6. Most boats will run once started even with a dead battery if the charging system is working properly. I know you had your alternator checked but it seems like one of your wires isn't hooked up right or corroded. I don't know what alternator you have. If you have a one wire I would be looking at the one wire both ends and connections. If it is not the internally regulated style and you have a voltage regulator I would check all the connections to that and the regulator itself plus the charging wire back to the battery.
  7. What he said ^ numbers are usually printed close to helm. If that doesn't work you can use the length. If you don't have a removable floor pull a fish through when you remove the cable to save you some time on the install.
  8. I can't wit for your review of the Camera. I thought about doing that on my boat. I have a camera I installed on my Motorhome and have cameras factory installed on my truck and wife's car. I have glare issues...not sure if it is just my eyes getting old or what. Screens mess with me a bit so I am curious how you will like the mirror/camera in the sunlight. Your installs are top notch.
  9. My prop guy has turned into a buddy so we kind of mess around with pitch, cup, size etc. ....It isn't a perfect science. I would call them up and ask them what they can do. Let them know you are low on rpm when tugging heavy or whatever and see what they can do. From my experimentation with props over the years I have found bigger ears give better thrust but cost you on the top, four ears instead of 3 can sometimes give you a little bit of the best of both worlds scenario. pitch is pitch and is fairly predictable in results, cups I like a little cup but my old boat seemed to spin out if I put too much cup on it in the turns. The important numbers they usually want are RPM's...the problem for most of us is we tug so heavy. It used to be just what is your wide open RPM when you have the throttle maxed, if it was above the range of said given motor you took more pitch and if it was below it you flatten it out. My current prop on an empty boat you would probably blow up the motor if you ran it wide across the lake but she sit's nice on the RPM's now when tugging. Try to find someone in Washington you can talk to, if not I can give you the number to my prop guy with a warning...A lot of people don't like his demeanor and he is so busy I don't think he cares a bunch who likes him and who doesn't. For whatever reason I get along with him really well.
  10. Which can ruin the seal, It needs that water to cool and lubricate.
  11. RI257 WET SOUNDS SYSTEM XXX15

    Boat, Truck, Stereo....all looks unbelievable from my vantage point, I have to be thankful for what I have not what I don't have but looking at your set up makes me feel like I'm in the Ghetto...haha!!! I'm not a hater good on you, really really nice looking install.
  12. Could be a water leak somewhere in the motor that only dumps when the motor is running and the sea water pump is bringing water up to the boat. There is the line that goes to that PSS seal as well as every other water line to the motor and exhaust. I'm just guessing and grabbing at straws.
  13. If you have a serpentine belt You have an idler pulley probably more like 2 with the tensioner. They have little skateboard wheel bearings in there and they go out all the time. I'd do like infinity said, you have to pull the belt anyway, you might be surprised what you can feel. not knowing Your boat you also have 2 water pumps the one that runs the motor and the sea water pump or whatever they call it and those both will have a belt. The water pump for the motor usually blows out the weep hole in the bottom bearing when it takes a dump, and you will be able to wobble it most likely when the bearing goes. The sea water pump is jammed in there so tight, if it is jamming up you are probably losing chunks of rubber and you want to get that out of there and service it before it passes that garbage everywhere.
  14. I did mine on my Avy and it took me a little over an hour. The big nut is a mean woman but you can get it. I cut mine at the helm bound it together with the new one and just pulled the new one through with the old one. Hooked it up in the back centered it up and attached it to the helm...done. I was all prepped thinking it was going to suck because I knew what they wanted at the boat repair shop and it was really easy...I had to follow it up with a new seal, and shaft bearing...still not bad but much worse than the cable. Aligning the motor takes a little doing.
  15. When you send that prop off, most prop guys can change pitch and cups...I forget the extent with a brass prop but if memory serves its like one on pitch with a little more flexibility on cup but for me cup only affects the top anyway the pitch seems to be the factor that makes it the tug boat..
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.