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2010 Elite V Oldman WB SS

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About 2010 Elite V Oldman WB SS

  • Rank
    Fresh Fish

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Wakeboarding, Slalom Skiing, Wakesurfing

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  • Boat
    Centurion Elite V C4

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  1. Budget Ballast System

    I was thinking I could get away without them if I used wyes instead of tees. Then again, since the port bag is on the same line as the center tank drain pump, and the port bag is on the bilge pump drain line, I may have to add them. If I can access the vent/overflow line for the center tank, I may vent the to bags to that same line and use wye fittings. I don't think it would be necessary to have the check valves in that case.
  2. Budget Ballast System

    Not sure how I missed this before but this is very helpful Troy. I was planning to fill my center tank and both rear bags with the factory ballast puppy but now I have a new idea. I am planning to add an aerator pump to fill the small center tank since it has a 5 pin switch wired for a fill pump and drain pump. That will allow me to keep that existing switch and have a switch dedicated to that tank which is the only one I need for wakeboarding. For surfing, I will then use the ballast puppy to fill and drain both bags (at least for now). I plan to drain both bags back through the bottom of the hull although I did consider going through the side like you did. I plan to vent the port bag to the center tank drain line and the startboard bag to the bilge drain line. This gives me a separate port for overflow of each bag. My diagram is not as fancy as yours but you can get the idea of my proposed setup.
  3. Budget Ballast System

    Thanks for the input fjohnp. I only have one existing solenoid valve so I would have to build a manifold to add two more valves for the bags. That is tempting since the wiring is already there but I am not that experienced with wiring (not sure how to connect the existing wire bundles to the pump and valves since they are not located next to each other) while I am comfortable working with hose and manual valves. I also figure I can always add the solenoids in place of the manual valves later but I am probably more likely to add one or possibly two pumps if I am going to be messing with wiring. I only have 3 holes on the port side of my boat and none on the starboard. The holes are for the vent line for the center tank, the drain line for the center tank, and the bilge line. I had originally planned to drain the bags to that drain line for the center tank but based on quite a bit of input from others, I now plan to drain the bags through the bottom intake with the ballast puppy that I am using for filling. This seems simpler and will save me some hose, check valves, and quick connects. Therefore, I plan to use the old center tank drain line as my vent line for the two bags.
  4. Budget Ballast System

    It was nice last weekend so I took a look to see what I had for wiring and switches. In addition to the center tank which is wired with a 5 pin switch, I have wiring and connectors (no switches) for port and starboard tanks/bags but unfortunately, the connectors for switches are also 5 pin. It looks like all three zones are wired the same at the panel (inputs from battery and wiring for inputs from pumps and also I think a solenoid valve). Right now, the only solenoid valve that is present is the one for the center tank. There are two coils of wire, one is lableled port and the other starboard sender. I assume those are for future solenoid valves for the port and starboard side. I also found a wire in the engine compartment for a second pump. Not sure if that would control both rear tanks/bags or if there is a separate wire I have not found for a third pump. I assume the 5 pin wiring for port and starboard zones would allow filling with the existing ballast puppy used to fill the center tank (or possibly that pump 2 wiring) and that I would have to connect other wires to new aerator drain pumps for those zones. That would be easiest from an electrical connection standpoint but I would have to add pumps, hose and valves. My current thinking is to remove the solenoid and probably the strainer, and replace that 5 pin center tank switch with a 7 pin switch that would allow me us the ballast puppy for filling and draining. At this stage, I am planning to use this same pump to fill and drain the port and starboard bags. Since I have a single switch and pump at this point, I will control the fill and drain of all zones with manual valves. Not ideal but still better than filling and draining with a portable pump. I am also planning to add overflows to the bags and plumb them to the line that is currently used to drain the center tank. If I use a wye, I am thinking I can go without the check valves on these lines. I appreciate any input folks may have.
  5. Budget Ballast System

    Thank you fjohnp! Winter is here but I may trace the wiring if we get a nice day. Otherwise, I will figure it out in the spring.
  6. Budget Ballast System

    I got my boat back this weekend and took a look. I saw some coils of wire with connectors near the transmission and ballast intake (1st picture) Are these plug and play wiring for two more ballast zones? I do not have switches for those zones but there are spaces to add them on the panel. I have not removed the panel yet to see if there is any extra wire under there that connects to the battery and the coils near the engine. If there are already wires for two more zones, I will probably add two more pumps. If not, I will probably just use my existing impeller pump to fill and drain the bags as well as the center tank. I assume I can do that by disconnecting the Johnson drain pump from the drain terminals of the switch and connecting the reversible impeller pump to those terminals. I assume I would also have to move the hose coming from the impeller pump to the center tank from the current fill point on the tank to the low point where the Johnson pump is currently connected for it to drain the tank (2nd picture).
  7. Budget Ballast System

    Thanks for the info. I was thinking of staying with a single pump and upgrading it to a higher flow rather than adding pumps. Using larger hose for the bags is also a good idea. When I get my boat back next week, I will have to take a look at how I am going to do the wiring for the various options folks have provided.
  8. Budget Ballast System

    I think there may be a sprinkler valve in my boat. It is on the rear wall of the boat and is located prior to the filter. It has a spring inside. Is that a sprinkler valve or check valve? If it is a sprinkler valve, is it a critical piece of equipment or can that be bypassed? I was also wondering about that filter. If I add a new manifold and pumps, is another filter needed? Regarding the manifold, it looks like Wakemakers no longer carries it. https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-distribution-flow-manifold.html Are there other sites that supply it or is it just as easy to construct my own manifold with PVC pipes and valves? If I do that, I could probably construct the manifold after the existing intake rather than adding a new through hull fitting and possibly add a second through hull fitting and pump later. If I do install a DPDT switch to allow fill and empty of my stock hard tank, do I need to reroute the input into the low point where the Johnson drain pump is located in order to be able to drain the tank with the impeller pump?
  9. Budget Ballast System

    Thanks Wylie. Pardon my ignorance but what is a DPDT switch? I assume it lets me use the existing impeller pump to drain as well as fill the hard tank. I am curious why Centurion chose to fill with the impeller pump and drain with the aerator pump. Maybe it would be difficult to drain with the impeller pump because the hose run from the pump to the tank is fairly long. Is it difficult to replace the existing switch with a DPDT switch? If I do that I assume I could still add valves and sequentially fill and drain the bags as well as the center tank with that single impeller pump. I realize filling and draining will go much faster with additional pumps so I just need to decide whether to spend the $ and get over my fear of adding a through hull fitting. I am also concerned about running the wires through the sides of the boat and installing new switches but I may have to do that anyway if I replace the switch. My boat is getting winterized now so when I get it back, I can reassess how difficult that may be. If it is not too difficult to replace that switch, I am leaning towards replacing that switch and adding valves and possibly overflows to the bags next year. Then possibly the following year, or when I get tired of turning valves, I could add the separate through hull fittings and impeller pumps. I sure appreciate everyone's time and advice.
  10. Budget Ballast System

    The check valves I saw were almost as expensive as the aerator pumps. I guess they are good because they are automated but it seems you could use a manual valve after filling to prevent the back siphon at a fraction of the cost. Regarding impeller pumps, I have been told by many that they simplify the installation but they are so much more expensive. That is why I was going to try to fill the bags as well as the center tank with my existing impeller pump and use valves to switch the bag I am filling. I understand that will require me to drain through additional aerator pumps so I guess I need to decide on the advantage of the simplicity of the reversible impeller pumps vs the additional cost and having to drill holes through the hull which I would like to avoid. You mentioned just adding one additional through hull fitting if I go with the impeller pumps. I thought you needed a through hull fitting for each impeller pump. Is it possible to install just one additional through hull fitting and pump from two separate impeller pumps or would you just install one fitting and one pump and fill the bags sequentially? I am not too worried about the time it takes to fill as we are already filling sequentially now with a portable pump. The biggest thing we are trying to eliminate is the difficulty in emptying the bags with a portable pump and having to have folks hold the pump, hold the connector in the adapter to fill the bags.
  11. Budget Ballast System

    The fill pump is a Jabsco ballast puppy and the drain pump is a Johnson aerator pump.
  12. Budget Ballast System

    Thanks for the great advice. If you have the vents/overflows, why do you need the check valves and where should they be placed?
  13. We have a 2010 Centurion Elite V C4. Since it only has a 250LB center tank, we added a 750LB FatSac in each locker and have been using a portable pump to fill and drain them. Filling is not bad, but draining is a bit tricky. I am looking to add a bit of automation next year. I am considering just adding tees, valves, and hose and using the existing fill pumps to fill one or both FatSacs. This will prevent me from having to add new fill and drain pumps and switches for the FatSacs. I am also considering whether to run drain lines with valves from the FatSacs to the drain pump for the stock center tank but was considering the alternative of using valves with a short hose to drain them into the bilge and letting the bilge pump kick on. Has anyone tried that? Thanks in advance for any experience you wish to share.
  14. We have a 2010 Centurion Elite V C4. Since it only has a 250LB center tank, we added a 750LB FatSac in each locker and have been using a portable pump to fill and drain them. Filling is not bad, but draining is a bit tricky. I am looking to add a bit of automation next year. I am considering just adding tees, valves, and hose and using the existing fill pumps to fill one or both FatSacs. This will prevent me from having to add new fill and drain pumps and switches for the FatSacs. I am also considering whether to run drain lines with valves from the FatSacs to the drain pump for the stock center tank but was considering the alternative of using valves with a short hose to drain them into the bilge and letting the bilge pump kick on. Has anyone tried that? Thanks in advance for any experience you wish to share.
  15. Looking to winterize my 2010 Elite V C4 with 5.0L 305 cid PCM engine for the first time. Has anyone winterized using a flush buddy or fake-a-lake device on the hull or does everyone just drain the water and pour antifreeze in through the highest hose in the system as shown in the manual. Is there any advantage to either approach? I would think if you use the flush buddy and Camco winterization kit, you would not have to drain the engine first since you would be forcing water through the system. Since the engine is fuel injected, I was also wondering whether I could just spray fogging oil into the spark arrestor or whether I need to remove each plug and fog each cylinder. Last question is whether it is sufficient to just replace the primary fuel filter or whether it is also necessary to replace the filter element inside the fuel control cell? Appreciate andy assistance you can provide.
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