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kiddhardware

Crew
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About kiddhardware

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  • Boat
    Centurion Avalanche

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  1. 2006 Ski Centurion Avalanche w/BS 330. Last summer I hit a rock that did some serious damage to my prop and bent the shaft. I purchased a new shaft and coupler, prop and strut. Originally, the strut looked bent so I replaced it. Before I replaced the strut the prop shaft was off center of the rudder. I found this is common and a design that was used for a few years to make it easier to remove the shaft. I've also peeked my head under a few other Centurions similar to mine and the shaft is offset on a few. No vibrations or issues that would indicate a problem before the damage. The new strut is straight, installed and now I'll need to drop the rudder before I can replace the shaft. This is where I hit pause. If I use the non offset strut I believe the shaft alignment will change. Has anyone done this before? Replaced an offset strut with a straight one. The offset of the original strut caused the boat to pull hard right under load and that's something I won't miss. My options are to buy another strut that is offset or take it to the shop for a full engine and driveline alignment. Thoughts?
  2. 2006 Ski Centurion Avalanche w/BS 330. Last summer I hit a rock that did some serious damage to my prop and bent the shaft. I purchased a new shaft and coupler, prop and strut. Originally, the strut looked bent so I replaced it. Before I replaced the strut the prop shaft was off center of the rudder. I found this is common and a design that was used for a few years to make it easier to remove the shaft. I've also peeked my head under a few other Centurions similar to mine and the shaft is offset on a few. No vibrations or issues that would indicate a problem before the damage. The new strut is straight, installed and now I'll need to drop the rudder before I can replace the shaft. This is where I hit pause. If I use the non offset strut I believe the shaft alignment will change. Has anyone done this before? Replaced an offset strut with a straight one. The offset of the original strut caused the boat to pull hard right under load and that's something I won't miss. My options are to buy another strut that is offset or take it to the shop for a full engine and driveline alignment. Thoughts?
  3. Thanks for taking the time and effort to respond. I took a dial indicator to the shaft and it's .030 toward the prop and .020 before the prop strut. Both the shaft and the strut are bent so I no longer suspect that I need to adjust the motor mounts. I removed some cooling hoses from the engine and the v drive and I can now feel the Walter shaft coupler and there is plenty of space for me to remove the bolts. Hopefully the coupler won't be too hard to pop off and the shaft key hasn't been compromised.
  4. I have a 2006 Centurion Avalanche with a Scorpion 330. A few weeks ago I hit an underwater rock going between 11 and 13 MPH and that took off about half of two blades of my Acme 1579. The rock formation wasn't solid so my prop most likely broke apart after being hit. I replaced the prop and I'm getting vibration going above 5 MPH and the vibration is not coming from the steering wheel. I called a few shops, with fingers crossed, hoping I could get in before Labor Day Weekend. A few didn't want to do the job because of how hard it is to get to the prop shaft. One guy even told me that my strut was probably bent too. I inspected my strut and I don't see and dings or nicks that indicate it hit something. I also inspected the shaft coming out of the boat and it has shifted to the right side of the hole. Dial indicator show shaft at .005 off. Not sure if it was mounted very well so I'll re do it with the prop off. Also, looking and the shaft seals, both side of the seals are pressed to the right side. 1. Can I loosen the motor mounts and see if I can nudge the prop shaft closer to center of the exit point on the hull? I've had by boat in the shop twice for preventive work. One was for replacing Cutless bearings and the other was for the shaft seal all within the last 100 hours. I have a walk through transom so I only have access to one side of the motor and I cannot see the drive shaft or the nuts to the strut. I've seen a lot of posts on Centurioncrew about removing the drive shaft but I haven't seen much on how to get to it. 1. Could I unscrew the motor mounts and use a hoist to lift the engine 6 or more inches? Would that be easier than moving the v-drive? Thanks, Shane
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