ReSession

Not sure if you guys have seen this but it was on Reddit a few weeks ago...this numbnuts managed to sink his boat at the launch doing everything wrong in high winds and waves. You'll see him around the 3:20 mark but the action takes place around 7 minutes in. (no audio)

I'm already on to my next project (pulled my stock tank and plumbed the 750lb sac in the port locker on Easter Sunday...just waiting for the rain to end so I can get some decent pictures. I discovered it was a no-go for a custom sac that I was planning to use because after I pulled the tanks, the compartment on my Ski Supreme V220 had some funky tapers that would have brought the size/weight down significantly!) Part of the above job involves relocating the battery to the starboard compartment (running out of room for storage which is why I'm going with the starboard locker versus the main port side storage compartment). I plan on keeping 1 of the stock batteries (as it's always charged/recharged to 100%) and I just purchased an Optima D34M deep cycle battery to use for the stereo/accessories. Plan: Both the + and - wires running from the engine are currently 2-gauge My plan is to run a 6 ft 2-gauge wire from the stock ground (-) connection (replacing the current one which isn't long enough) and run that to the negative (-) connection of Battery #1. From there, I plan to run a 4-gauge negative wire to the negative terminal of Battery #2, to connect them in a series. I will then run a shorter (2-3 foot) piece of 4-gauge positive wire from the #1 and #2 positive connections on the Perko switch to their corresponding #1 and #2 positive battery terminals. I will then run an 8 ft 2-gauge wire from the positive terminal on the Perko switch to the positive connection on the boat's starter. Questions: Will I have any issues with 1 battery draining/not recharging correctly with 2-gauge going into 1 and then having it piggy-back connected to battery 2's negative terminal (or should I use ALL 2-gauge)? Should I attempt to connect/splice the ground wire together, as the Perko manual shows? If so, what's the best connection to use here to ensure proper connections? Does anyone see any issue with me running 2-gauge in from the Starter/ground, but then using 4-gauge to connect the batteries in negative parallel (and the 4-gauge from the Perko switch to the + battery terminals) I plan to use the Optima Battery for accessories. If we call this battery #2 in the diagram I drew, do I connect my amp/accessory +/- wires to battery #2 just as I would without this new Perko? What's the best way to connect these wires with the new Perko in place? Thanks!

Dang, sorry about that - maybe I need to pay my dues? It's 4'9" and I'm in Burlington, VT - 05408 is the zip I'd ship from!

Interesting - I used to have a Samson one mounted from my Illusion tower on my on my V226 but this tower is even further back so I didn't think there were any options for tower-mounted mirrors on the Aegis. I'd definitely be interested in checking it out! I've had this boat for 4 years and never needed a mirror (Vermont authorities could care less if there's anyone else in the boat with you while surfing...or let alone having hull numbers or current registration! ) but now that I'm opening a wakesurf school this summer, I purchased a BBTalkin' 2-way waterproof communication system that work great for coaching (we used them at the Hi5 Wakesurf Campl in Costa Rica I went to last week!) since there will be times where I'm both the driver and instructor and a mirror is going to be key for this application. I sit on the bolster as well and don't like the idea of anything right off the top of the windshield so I'm open to suggestions!

Reviving this thread as I'm in the market for a new mirror (I have the Aegis tower) and looking at the new Roswell mirror mount combo...curious if anyone has purchased one and your thoughts? https://www.roswellmarine.com/product/mirror-mount-combo/

You can talk to LOTS of people about gel coat blistering and you'll get just about as many reasons as to why it happened...If you talk to a fiberglass guy about it, they'll tell you that it's a manufacturing defect. I've heard them claim this happens during the process of clearing their gel coat spray lines (flush with water, followed by high-pressure air) and that if any water remains in the lines, there's going to be gel coat issues. But when it only happens to the sections that come in contact with your boat, that theory seems to fly out the window! In my opinion, there has to be an issue with the gel coat manufacturing when this happens. WHY ON EARTH WOULD A BOAT BLISTER IN WATER WHEN IT IS MEANT/BUILT TO BE IN WATER??!! Personally, I think the whole water PH theory is goofy, because that would mean you'd hear about everyone's boats developing blisters on your same lake no matter the manufacturer. Every dealer would be recommending you bottom-paint your boat if the water was crap, right? Does Mineral Lake have more than your average amount of minerals in it? You're already hearing from other Centurion owners that moor their boats without touching it and no blisters...why is that? You can literally have two of the exact same boats moored on the SAME lake, and one will have no issues and the other will develop gel coat blisters (if there's an issue with the gel coat spray process). See if you can find any other Centurion owners on your lake experiencing the same thing to help build your case. Your boat is covered by a 5 year hull warranty, contact your dealer and work with Centurion to rectify the situation Also, once you get the gel coat blisters fixed, make sure to replace those carpeted lift bunks with rubber ones to avoid dealing with this in the future! I had read about guys having blisters under their carpeted bunks in the past so I made sure when searching for lifts, I went with Sunstream that used rubber bunks.

Guys, Thanks for your responses - definitely cannot wait to get this school going (especially since it's a balmy 1º outside as I type this, overlooking a half-frozen bay!). It will be interesting to see what type of action we'll get, but I'm betting we'll attract enough attention to stay busy a few days out of the week? I want to get some brochures to put in the local hotels "What to do when you're here" section, along with tap into some local business partnerships (there's a big paddleboard retailer that comes to mind). I've been checking out various surf school sites, using http://boardersmag.com/articles/top-wakesurf-school-in-the-usa as a guide. Then I started to find some closer schools like http://www.adkwaterski.com (2.5 hours south on Lake George), http://www.lakelifelessons.com (3 hours southeast on Lake Winnipesaukee) and said "OK, if they can run a surf school in this same climate but still far enough away that I won't have to compete with them, I'm making this happen!" >>> as far as the garage height goes, sounds like my best bet is changing from 2 smaller bays to one larger bay (9' is going to be my max height, otherwise it will begin to interfere with the ceiling height on the second floor, compacting it to 7', OR flattening my roof pitch in a very snowy area which isn't going to happen!). @Cdifranco - you got it my man!

Hey guys, I've been away for awhile (herniated a disc in my lower back in the spring which put me down all summer) but was able to get out surfing a half-dozen times in September! In any case, I've been working on putting together a new wakesurf school in Vermont for the 2018 season since it's my passion and love to teach others and turn them on to the sport! I started Wakesurf Vermont LLC, secured an insurance policy through SportsInsurance.com (including waiver), been working on building out my site and social media presence (feel free to check out www.wakesurfvt.com, still in-the-works) , and about halfway through getting my captain's license through Mariners Learning System online module. Legally, this will allow me to take up to 6 paying passengers on my personal boat. I also completed the USA Waterski Level 1 Instructor certification, Red Cross CPR certification and passed TSA's background check. With all of that going on, I also have building and septic permit applications submitted to build a 2-car oversized garage (24' wide x 36' long by 25' high). My plan is to market the "Wakesurf Vermont" experience and draw tourists and guests to my lake house location to offer them wakesurf lessons, weekly lodging (including optional dock space if they have pleasure boat), lake tours (for those windier days), boat/gear consultation and other local entertainment options. I'll be advertising through Air BnB plus Facebook and Instagram. I've opted for two 9'x9' doors, which is about as high as I can go without affecting the roof pitch - you can check out a pic of the plans @ https://wakesurfvt.com/air-bnb/. My question for those that park their boats in a garage, am I going to have any issues with getting my boat in through this door (other than having to put down the tower, which I'm guessing I'll need to do)? I have the Aegis tower on my 2014 SV233, but not sure how tall it is up? One other question...If I upgrade to an FI23 or Ri237, will these door dimensions still work? Looking for any feedback you may have in regards to my master plan, too! There's plenty of tourists in Vermont and nowhere in the state (or within 2+ hours) can you find someone willing to take you out on the lake and teach you how to wakesurf, so I figure for around $125/hour, I'll be happy to be that guy

Right on, that’s an easy solution going with one 18’ wide door vs two 8’ wide doors. I failed to mention that I’ll only be parking it in the garage for the winter, but I don’t want to find out it’s not wide enough when I have the option to choose now.

Guys, I don't have any experience buying a girl's board but trying to find something that will be a good beginner>>>advanced surf-style board (with 3 or 4 fins). My gf is 108 lbs and finding it challenging to keep enough speed to stay in the pocket on this little Liquid Force with 1 small center fin she's been riding. She's not really interested in skim-style so that helps narrow down the selection. Plus...I have plenty skims she could ride. The boards I'm considering: Idol Surf - 4'2" JC Sig >>> http://www.idolsurf.com/product/wakesurf-jcsig/ *Likes = riders up to 135lbs and has 3 fins Soulcraft Super AV - 4'5" >>> http://www.soulcraftboarding.com/boards.html *Likes = riders up to 140lbs, has twinzer fin setup, her initials are AV and she loves sea turtles Erie Ashley Kidd - 4'6" >>> http://www.towanza.com/erie-ashley-kidd-pro-wakesurf-board *Likes = comes in pink and she loves Ashley Kidd's surfing One of the biggest purchasing factors right now is availability...so if I need to wait 4-6 weeks, forget it! Any thoughts...any glaring omissions with regard to my selection?

Guys, I have a buddy looking to pick up a 2017 Ri237 and wanted to get the crew's opinion...my head is stuck thinking that this is a bigger boat than his current one, yet going to get a boat considerably bigger/heavier with the same size engine that's in my 233. I understand that the transmission was geared differently, but can any 237 owners out there comment on the plus/negatives to going with the Gen 5 (versus a bigger engine)? My guess is there's got to be a loss of top speed...thought I read around 32-34 mph? Also, what's up with the prop change? Were there issues with the 2017's? Last question is...did you guys have any warranty issues with your 237's that you needed to have fixed? This dealer is several states away (closest is in NH, but he's looking in Georgia). I just want to help him get the right boat when spending this type of dough!

Guys, I have a buddy looking to pick up a 2017 Ri237 and wanted to get the crew's opinion...my head is stuck thinking that this is a bigger boat than his current one, yet going to get a boat considerably bigger/heavier with the same size engine that's in my 233. I understand that the transmission was geared differently, but can any 237 owners out there comment on the plus/negatives to going with the Gen 5 (versus a bigger engine)? My guess is there's got to be a loss of top speed...thought I read around 32-34 mph? One thing I read/heard was that the 237's don't travel in a straight line if you let go of the steering wheel (whereas I can literally take my hands off the wheel with a surfer behind me and never have to touch it). Is this true? Also, what's up with the prop change? Were there issues with the 2017's? Last question is...did you guys have any warranty issues with your 237's that you needed to have fixed? This dealer is several states away (closest is in NH, but he's looking in Georgia). I just want to help him get the right boat when spending this type of dough!

After having some boat lift challenges in the lower water depths, my dealer arranged for me to take my boat to get it weighed at the local concrete factory to determine if we have a lift warranty issue (which it appears we do!) - my Sunstream lift is rated at 8000 lbs at 4' lift and 7000 lbs at 5' max lift level, I even upgraded to the bigger model for when I upgrade my 2014 SV233. Centurion's site states 4600 lbs dry weight...today I weighed the trailer separate, trailer + tow rig, and then weighed everything together! With my SV233 fully gassed up and all my gear plus a few boards, it tipped the scales at 5680 lbs. The trailer adds another 1300 lbs, total tow weight = 6920 lbs I'm curious to see how Sunstream will respond?

Toss it in rice or take it to Staples and have them dry it out for you...it'll come back to life!

Having riders upfront was a mistake since these Malibus already ride super low. Wind can whip up in an instant and change the game real quick! Staying under power and heading into the waves, throttling up to keep your nose up is the best move here. When you turn under power, you expose your gunwales to the waves...especially in the trough. There was no need to be pulling power turns...that likely dipped the nose under a roller and it was all over. No thought to have life jackets on...seems like inexperience was the biggest factor here! I have the coast guard's number programmed in my phone...if I'm in a major issue, I'm calling them first! Weather tip >>> weather.com has an awesome future forecast map to show you approaching storms up to six hours out. I always use this to see when/where they're hitting.

Ok, I'll share some info from my dealer re: cost since I'm likely upgrading '...the new Fi, well equipped with all ballast options, racks, Bimini, quick surf, metal flake gel upgrades, Etc will retail in the upper 90's. If you do the downfire system that will push it over 100k...' Said it surfs better than the FS, burns less gas and comes standard with the 6.0 409hp too

I forgot you guys do canopys down there...we have one guy in our bay that has one, it's the local seagull hangout! It's a $4-5k option for me so your number makes more sense!

$15-19k? No way! Mine was under $12k for reference. Just got off the lake, it's been a strange summer for weather!

My bad for hijacking...although I did want to bring some attention to the whole 'dry weight' versus how much these suckers (fully loaded) actually weigh! It's like ballast weight with Centurions...depending who you ask (even at the manufacturer) you get a different answer! When buying things like $5-$10k lifts and $70k+ tow rigs, it would be really nice to know the TRUE numbers so we don't make the wrong purchase. As @Bongo Fury once told me, Go Bigger. If you ever decide to upgrade your boat, you'll end up sorry and need to upgrade your lift. This is the route I intended to go (as I'd like to upgrade in the next year or two) but now battling this lift and max capacity. I'm sure we'll get it figured out...last summer the battery on the lift wasn't holding a charge and I'd have to swap out my boat battery with the lift battery which was a pain. Over the winter, we figured out it was mis-wired from the manufacturer so we solved that problem I used my neighbor here in Colchester at New England Marine - he's a 67 year old 1-man-show that builds the docks and then sets them up for the entire bay here! We have a really shallow bay so there's many 100/150/200' docks out here to get us to the deeper water. I did pull my boat down there last summer, my girlfriend's parents have a place there on the bay (do you know Lee that drives the red 'Vette?). I recall talking to your buddy as well...wakesurfing, stereo, the normal stuff! I'm definitely going to make a trip or two down there, although I won't be parking the Jeep under the oak tree during acorn season again...cost me $500 to have 5 dings removed from them falling on it overnight! I'll make sure to hit you up. Visa versa if you come up to Champlain. As far as the SRT goes, it's a beast for towing! For fun, I'll pass cars in the right lane at 80mph and forget that I have anything behind me when I'm in Tow mode. The 8-speed transmission on this thing is amazing. It's rated for 7200 lbs and I've never had an issue (which makes me also believe my boat + trailer are less than 7000 lbs). I've actually been looking very close at the '18 Durango SRT as my next rig.

Ayoh fellow Vermonter! Funny you posted this because I'm having some challenges with my 8000 lb Sunstream lift and 2014 Enzo SV233. I haven't had the opportunity to actually weigh my boat, but hoping some of you can 'weigh in' on this discussion? And if anyone's actually weighed their boat and can give me some numbers for comparison, that would certainly help me avoid having to do the same thing (I hurt my back late winter and trying to avoid pulling the boat out to weight it only to find out someone else has already done it!) Centurion specs state: 4600 lbs dry weight (which includes the tower) 72 gallon gas tank (6.3 x 72) = 450 lbs Gear + Tower Speakers (believe I'm being generous at 300 lbs), but let's put it at 500 lbs I also have 400 lbs of lead weight (which I remove to reduce extra stress on the lift). Total boat weight = 5500 lbs OR 5900 lbs if I decided to keep ALL my lead weight on board. Hoping we're all on the same page so far? I'm not way off here am I??? So, here's my dilemma on my lift - Sunstream SL7012AR specs state: 7000 lbs maximum capacity at 4' 8000 lbs maximum capacity at 5' When I first started using the lift last season, I didn't have any issues with it lifting the boat and lead and even a few people in the crew. But as the water starts getting lower and the lift has to work to 'get over the hump' of the biggest load lift, it stalls...won't go up further, as if it's maxed out with weight? So then I started unloading the lead bags and getting people (including myself) out of the boat to get it all the way up. When we move the lift out to deeper water, there isn't an issue...but I'm WAY under max capacity, no matter how you look at it? And if I can pull my boat on/off the lift, shouldn't that mean there's enough space for the lift to work and get me up? Simple Math: 8000 - 5500 = 2500 lbs under capacity 8000 - 5900 = 2100 lbs under capacity 7000 - 5500 = 1500 lbs under capacity 7000 - 5900 = 1100 lbs under capacity Does this sound right? Is something wrong with my lift? I'm trying to figure out why I paid MORE for the bigger lift (planning for a future upgrade) when it won't even get this boat all the way up?!

Went out this weekend for the first surf session...Saturday it was super windy and wavy and only had 3 guys total and left my 400 lbs of lead weight on the dock because I wanted to see what it could do right out of the box? It was a nice wave and I was really impressed with the goofy wave too...rode both sides, everything seemed to fill up in about 5 minutes and super easy to switch over to the other side! After filling up the rear port PNP sac (750 lbs), I realized there's more room at the top of the compartment that will likely allow me to add another 150-200 lbs with the 1100 sac that I originally was going to go with. I am also going to get some foam and make some square templates around my rear cup holders and attach them from under the compartment as I could see they will want to pop out with the pressure of the sac against them. The new system that keeps the divider boards in place works very nicely...they added some reinforcement bars but there are also 3 'hooks' that basically fit in right where the engine housing lowers down...once they're in place in the channel, the dividers are never going to pop out/into the engine compartment. We were going around 11-11.2 and had the CATS at 50%...didn't want to mess with that yet, figured I'd get the weighting down first along with trim tab settings, then start adjusting from there. We rode anywhere from 0-100% trim tab...I liked it more in the 50-70% range. We had 2 ladies in the bow (totaling maybe 230 lbs) and 4 others lounging around in the back...driver and starboard passenger, then 2 port side passengers. I filled up both Quickfills (port and starboard) and then filled up the Port Pro and Port Plug-n-Play. I also brought out 200 of my 400 lbs of lead weight and laid them in the compartment under the Pro ballast sac. I will be adding the 200 lbs additional under the Plug-n-Play sac this afternoon when we go out and see how that does? It's gonna take a little more dialing in, but I'm very happy with my wave and like knowing it's only going to get better! Here's a few pics and quick vid from Sunday.

Right on! I just got my boat in yesterday- I'll take a look at my settings this weekend and let you know? Keep in mind I have CATS but went without Ramfill because I wanted max surf weight in each compartment (plus I've added 500 lbs of lead).

A muskrat chewed my pad a few seasons ago and I have a replacement pad I need to swap out...been holding off on this project just because it seems like a pain but your goo gone marinating process seems like the best/quickest method!