boardjnky4

fantastic, thanks for the update!

Since I'm stuck with the prop I have, I'm going to have it re-pitched to a 15.5x14x.105 at Nettles.

OK that's a big difference from my 409/1.72:1 setup

Almost never, it's just a data point to benchmark from. I was led to believe the RPM decrease would be significant. With the speed control constantly changing things, it would be impossible to measure a 50 rpm difference. Heck the difference in chop/wind at any given moment can change the rpm more than that. I guess I was just expecting too much.

So I was eye'ing up the 15.5x15x.075 as well. That's just a really strange cup for a 15 pitch prop. What engine is in your boat? A PCM 6.0? Please let us know what your top speed and rpm end up being.

right right. So I might need to shim my strut just 1/8 or 1/4 inch to get rid of that cavitation. I do run some lead in the bow that might be causing more cavitation than needed at empty ballast, top speed. However, I'm seeing same RPM while wakeboarding and wakesurfing. Also seeing no difference in fuel consumption (DIACOM confirmed). As such, doubt that weight in the rear will help.

I have a 15.5 now with 5/8" clearance. I went from a 15x13x.105 to 15.5x13x.105 and I lost 2mph on top speed. Same RPM when surfing and wakeboarding. A bit curious as to how I lost top end and didn't drop RPM. Do you think that cavitation or slippage would due to clearance would cause that? Jim at Acme seemed to think it might be he couldn't put his finger on it.

Nicely done!

Get a chance to install it yet?

I'm really interested in how this turns out. Not a Centurion owner anymore, but sincerely interested for my current boat. I believe I can already squeeze a 15.5" on my boat, so I really only need to gain .25-.5" to get a 16" on. Where did you order the plate? Somewhere local? Once concern I have is within the shaft log. How much clearance is required around the shaft for driveline flex? Is there any flex?

It's definitely not an I/O Edit: Actually looks like it could have been in one section where you could see the boat. Really rare for boats that large to not be inboards though.

There is no way the interior of that boat is as roomy as an A20.

I'm running a PPI 600.2 for the 6.5" HLCDs

I have the smaller 6" speakers on my Axis and like them.

I don't think Aerator pumps are as bad as they are made out to be. I have them in my Axis and they work just fine. Not quite as simple plumbing, but they also draw way less amperage so you don't need long runs of expensive wiring either.

I would love to see a write-up on this setup. Sounds awesome!

Check the iac valve muffler. It's a stupid little part that causes these symptoms. Look it up on google.

Looking for information on speed and rope length. What speed does it clean up at with stock ballast? With no ballast? What rope lengths work best? How does the 22 and 24 footer differ? Also, what about the ss 210? Thanks!

Thanks guys. The reason I ask is because I have to compete behind one of those boats (not sure which one). I was just trying to figure out how the rope length will compare to what I usually ride behind and if the wake will be clean on both sides at 22.2-22.5 mph. Are the wakes pretty narrow or pretty wide?

Smoking hot deal

I doubt gps upgrade would solve this problem. Let them fix it.

NC is Spotter, Mirror OR CGA Life Jacket

The story is that the speakers are knock-offs. The design is more-or-less stolen from Bullet Audio. Not the entire speaker is the same, but much of it is. If you don't care to run knock-offs, then go for it. I did it out of cost necessity. I didn't buy them over Bullet/Wetsounds/Exile. It was either Krypt HLCD or no speakers.... Nobody lost business to anyone else in this case because I wouldn't have bought the real ones anyway. They are great speakers for the price. Loud and clear when wakeboarding at 65/70 feet.

I put the same on my boat with a Precision Power p600.2. Sounds GREAT!

In ocean surfing they would call that a chop hop. I can't imagine it's TOO hard.