bomoseen avy

A little bit too late at night and too cold to ride but hopefully I’ll get behind the boat relatively soon and post my thoughts

Got back from work tonight and moved lead around a little bit. Put 280 pounds in the rear port locker, 200 pounds in the rear starboard locker and left 240 pounds in the bow. I then filled all my ballast up; both QuickFill’s, both rear lockers, and both mid lockers. Speed at 11 tab mostly ran all the way down especially for the goofy side. Lake calmer without as much chop compared to my other outing. It seemed that the best set up was draining about half the weight out of the starboard mid boat ballast bag with that set up here are my regular and goofy waves

So I got the boat back yesterday. I rechecked my Deutsch connectors and found the lines from the actuators we’re not sitting firmly in the harness. Firmed those up and the system works fine! Got most of my lead out and put 280 pounds evenly distributed in the bow and 160 pounds in each back end of the rear lockers. Filled both QuickFill, both rear lockers, and both mid boat PNPs. PP at anywhere from 10.8 to 11.4. Ended up running the wake tab all the way down at 100 to keep the bow down. Air temperature in the mid 60s And water temp here in Vermont also low so I didn’t stay out very long. Got one ride in. Initial thoughts: No spray with FAE on either side. That was a relief to see as I was worried about the goofy side. Goofy wave looked spectacular. I am a regular surfer so didn’t spend any time over there but very easy to get compared to the listed or suck gate wave. Regular wave not the typical beefy hi wave I’m used to with either listed or suck gate set up. It was a bit windy out so there was chop and I only had approximately 320 pounds of crew with my two kids. Slowed the speed down a little bit and the wave got taller but squatty. Messed around with the tab a little bit and similar effect. Didn’t seem like too much weight for the engine so I have a couple more lead bags and I’m gonna put in the port rear locker corner. I may then empty starboard PNP a bit next. Based on Mrwick’s experience I may then change the tab angle to see if that helps. Also probably reach out to Ryan next week after the holiday. Any other experience is greatly appreciated. I’ll try and take some pics and video next time out.

Mine too. I've had a bit of a hiatus as boat is off to be summerized. Hoping to get it back anyday now. I did power up after install and although unit faceplate responded appropriately, no tab movement. When I get the boat back I've got to check all my connectors and go from there...

Fly high tube sac=370# is biggest you can fit in the locker. Throw a 400 on the walkthrough and fill the port locker and port seat (custom avy sac is 1500#) I always ran my avy listed for regular wave with a 400 pound bag in the bow, custom avy bag full, and if light crew 400 bag on top of port seat. I did hear people running a surf gate with 1100 on the Surfside and 8 to 900 on the non-service side with 400 in the bow. https://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-tube-sac.html?75=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIksr92pOE2wIV3I2zCh3MHwlNEAQYASABEgKwYfD_BwE

Again thanks for all the help!! I'm not interested in style points as long as function is good!! I really appreciate all your input

So the only other issue is the loop from the GSA ground wire is much bigger than the screws on the ground bus. Did u have that on yours? Do I just pick up a smaller loop and replace the current one?

Sweet! The circled lug in the previous picture is power!! With the perko in position 1+2 it has power with key in all positions (acc/off/on.) None of the wires from the hot lug run to the presumed ground bus. (That red to the ground bus was spiced to the stereo switch on the console by the throttle.)

You bet. I will check it tonight. Thanks for all the help!!

And is this the accessory power block? OK to take the black cover off?

Sorry to belabor the point but I know literally nothing about wiring. Took another look under the dash tonight. Below the common ground bus block previously pictured I found this under a red rubber cap (circled in green.) is this also for a ground?

Awesome!! Much appreciated! Now the GPS makes sense...

Out of curiosity, why is there a GPS on this thing?

Overall feel like I made good progress today. Couple questions for those who have done the install: my actuator wires enter away from the upper mounting bracket. I’m assuming just bead some silicone on the inside and outside of the hull and call it watertight? once the power supply is hooked up, looks like the lone deutsch there connects to the plug on the actuator cable hookup? does it matter how you connect the two cable terminals to the black box controller?

Need to find a power source and a ground. The wire loops look huge compared to what I found. Assuming this is run off the Perko but not sure how to confirm. Any advice on hooking to power is appreciated. Me and electrical stuff are not best friends

The instructions talked about being careful hooking up the potentiometer, that it only went one way and not to force it. Hope this is correct

Thanks for the words of encouragement!! you know I honestly thought the hinge issue would be the biggest hurdle; the spacers took some time but obviously the right tools are a huge help. I was surprised by how much I did NOT like drilling with the hole saws in the upholstery under the throttle. The 5/8 bit was unnecessary on the face plate for the potentiometer IMO. Anyway, ran the wires on starboard side. Our helm is nice to work in behind the throttle, east to get to...

My actuator wire needs to run into the transom away from the mounting bracket to avoid the false floor or quick fill. That’s why it’s not running through the actuator. Just like MrWick’s Supreme install. I’ll tackle that after I mount the other side.

Chamfered the holes, loaded the bracket, holes, and both sides of spacer with 5200 fast cure. Set screws and cleaned up the mess with acetone.

Drilled top hole after double checking tab displacement and angles. Put a temporary screw to hold bracket in place. Then drilled holes in plastic spacer. Finally able to mark and drill bottom holes in bracket.

I don’t have adequate tools so a friend ripped the plastic for me on his table saw. My jigsaw didn’t work. Friction heats the plastic and it all coagulates so the jigsaw becomes useless. I took the ripped plastic and used his oscillating saw to cut the outline of actuator mounting bracket. Mucho better. Then used my Dremel with sanding head to finish the shape which worked great (better than palm sander.)

Got the plastic to fab the spacers this week. Optimal actuator mounting bracket placement according to GSA is 1/1.5 inches above tab hinge. This means I mount the top screw of the bracket above the “ridge” in my transom and make a spacer for the bottom 2/3 of the bracket that hangs over.

can u tell me what you used for pad/polish; was it a cutting pad/creme or more polishing? dual action orbital polisher or straight rotary? Great job boat is schmexy!!

So empty line is bottom back, fill is through top, vent through top. If running listed routing vent to opposite side good idea. Check valves also helpful. Lotsa good info on plumbing ballast on this site if you are inclined to do it sooner than later