Jump to content

DrNate

Crew
 View profile  See their activity

  • Content count

    2,740

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    44

Posts posted by DrNate

  2. Posted

    8 hours ago, Jlagos said:

    Definitely would second guess the recommendation to not dilute 50:50. From what I've learned, undiluted antifreeze is unable to unload the heat it absorbs readily and can result in an engine running hotter. The water (distilled) makes the antifreeze more dense and actually increases the boiling and decreases freezing point. 

    X2.  I'd say the mechanic you talked to is an idiot.  Horrible advice

    • Haha 1

  3. Posted · Edited by DrNate

    13 hours ago, InfinitySurf said:

    @RhuntIII I did not try that and its a great idea! If I went over the smooth pulley last I am sure I can make it go on there, just barely would not stretch over the tensioner pulley and I didnt even think of doing it over smooth pulley last. Appreciate that.

    Motorcraft oil filter....I did a bunch of research on oil filters and that one came up as a quality filter (obviously plenty of others) and its easy to get in my area.  I bought a bulk pack since I change oil at least twice. Middle of summer and end....every 40-50hrs. Since I change often, I figured as long as its a quality made filter, I wasnt worried about something that filtered long term and gonna use these up.

    Got one other question for ya, I may have to post a new topic on this one....but in doing research on the DEXCOOL antifreeze that is on all the GM, PCM engines (when I winterized in Fall, I opened bolt on heat exchanger for 30 seconds and drained some of the anti-freeze, so I need to top off my reservoir tank now. But when googling earlier today to see where I could buy it,a bunch of stuff came up where GM has a bunch of lawsuits where supposedly the DEXCOOL can eat up gaskets/risers, cause issues with aluminum parts. The coolant can corrode and clog up radiators and cps, erode water pumps, rot radiator hoses and cause overheating (this is on cars mostly of course), but the boat engines are not that different and now I am worried about possible issues down the road. After texting my dealer today asking about it, he said the same thing. I asked him if I should drain, flush and replace....but he has not responded yet

    So now considering draining and flushing the existing DEXCOOL and replacing with something else. Any of you guys heard of these issues and switched to another brand? Dealer said that Sierra makes a propylene glycol that is green, its the stuff used in the Raptor engines

    It's kinda funny that you brought this up Infinity because I had just finished doing a ton of research on DEXCOOL because I, too, have it in my 409.  The manual says to check the PH level with red litmus paper and if it turns blue, it is alkaline and you are good.  I bought litmus paper to check mine and the PH from the new DEXCOOL (50/50 mixture) was 8.4 and so was the DEXCOOL in my boat, so I am happy.  The manual does say to also replace the DEXCOOL after 5 years.

    I have read the nightmare stories about DEXCOOL and automobile vehicles as well.  The most important thing is that if you decide to switch from DEXCOOL to regular anti-freeze it is IMPERITIVE that you drain every last drop of DEXCOOL out and MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that you got it all because it DOES NOT play nice with regular anti-freeeze

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    18 hours ago, Nick213 said:

    We'll Nate,

    Board racks aren't what they used to be, any quality rack cost "racks" these days. My thought with my next set is NO MORE bungee cords. I can get a set Samson board racks again for the cost of a triton. I would have gotten them already if it wasn't for the mount not being available for my tower.

    PTM clamping board racks are my second choice but there not any cheaper.

    https://www.wakemakers.com/ptm-edge-clamp-force-board-racks.html?547=29954&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzcyR9vf72QIVXLnACh2QbQ6JEAQYASABEgLGaPD_BwE

    Do you know which clamping board rack brand comes on the Mastercrafts?  I've heard stories of them cracking boards

  10. Posted · Edited by DrNate

    14 hours ago, WakeDoc said:

    Have you checked the transmission cooler to make sure you do not have any impeller pieces?

    No, but that is a good idea.  I also talked to another long time inboard owner yesterday that suggested that I try the easiest thing first:  Torque the bolts that hold the risers and exhuast manifolds together to make sure they're not just loos and loosing the seal at higher pressures.  Seems like a simple thing to do but don't want to over-torque them.  Anyone know what these should be?

  12. Posted

    Mr. Wick, I have no idea about the lake water PH but it seems like it might be aggressive.  I wanted to update this thread.  We finally got out on the water yesterday for a lake test.  At lower RPM's there are no leaks at all.  At higher RPM's after much running there is the tiniest of leaks in the riser gaskets, on both sides, where a drop of water will come out every 3-4 seconds, run down the exhaust manifold and turn into steam from the heat of the manifold.  Very little water reaches the bilge, in fact we ran all day and never bilged and at the end of the day, when removing the plug, no water came out.  So I ask again for you opinions because I've read where people have replaced the riser gaskets only to have more problems.  

    I also wanted to add that I checked the coolant level of the degas bottle constantly all day and it never moved from the "max fill" line where I had filled coolant to the other day.  So I am pretty confident there is no coolant leak.

     

    thoughts?

     

     

  13. Posted

    Very few forums I have been on where there can be a civilized discussion about gas vs. diesel and GMC vs. Ram vs. Ford.

    Gotta love this place.

    I have a Ram 2500 Cummins and tow the boat and commute to work as well.  My commute is only 2 minutes and is flat though :) .  Main thing is towing up and down large hills for me, makes all the difference as my old gasser couldn't handle it but if that's not an issue for you then might be a no-brainer on the gasser

  23. Posted

    4 hours ago, Shaka said:

    I had this issue last summer. My boat was was hydrolocking. Turns out water was getting into the cylinders from rusty risers. I caught it early enough that it did no damage other than frying a couple of starters. It could have been much worse though.

     Yeah, that's scary.  Everything I read says that exhaust manifolds on a fresh water boat should last 20 years.  I guess not necesarily

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy..

  I accept