Very cool. I wondered how well the box anchor works. Now I know. Ditto on the Dani

Don't know why this is listed in Charlotte, NC (the boat is in VT) but if valid and not a scam, it appears to be a great listing.  https://charlotte.craigslist.org/boa/d/2014-centurion-enzo-sv233/6502012732.html

Up,up, and away . Very nice.

Good ideas, don't know why I i didn't think of the tape previously. I'm always looking for the most complex fixes possible. The saran wrap also a good thought to keep the adhesive off. 

All very good points. I haven't figured out a way to keep the little bit of water that enters the cover openings around the gladiator tower yet. 

I store without cushions but my boat is exposed to the outdoor elements (with boat cover on). If it were to stay in a heated storage barn, then I would leave them in but keep storage bins etc cracked open to allow for some air movement. If the boat is DRY then no need to open compartments. I would say its likely overkill in heated barn. 

So I am aware that the best prevention of mold is to control moisture at all times. However, sometimes water gets past the barriers we put up an we do not realize the problem until after mold has formed. There are a couple of products available that try to prevent mold formation and  was wondering if anyone has tried them. I did find an article in practical sailor website which gives a favorable review of the products. Amazon reviews also look pretty good. 

3M Marine Mildew Block Spray

Concrobium mold control (I know it can be purchase in Home Depot. 

That appears the be the simplest solution. You could also have a filler cushion made for the middle section that inserts over the step area for when your cruising around. Shouldn't be an overly expensive add on. You could add an accent color, centurion logo, or even CENTURION CREW emblem to the seat if you wanted! 

Wave has transformed nicely with the increased ballast. Do you think the beaver tail you added has provides benefit?

I too find this interesting . Yes, the wake makers system is the same as the go surf assist  It's just been repackaged. 

I have looked at the GSA for some time. What is the capacity of your stock ballast? I can search for this answer but easier to just ask. 

Nice. If you have a long trek with it back home it's nice to have a dual axle however be careful with tires they appear as if they maybe older. How does the cover look? It's another expense that can creep up on you quickly. Other than a bimini hopefully she's mechanically sound and you can get some time on the water with it prior to the cold season. iboats.com is one of many sites that will have new biminis. $300-400 depending on quality you choose. 

Go with the Avy if you "know" it's a solid boat. The vdrive configuration will give way more space. Also your children's legs are going to start stretching real soon and space will become tighter. In the 21- 22 ft range, the foot difference is very significant and will likely feel like 2 feet when compared to the direct drive. Have you thought where you'll put the cooler in the T5?

You'll likely pay at least $600 per year for the insurance. So your savings are now $1000. How about tax and tag? Depending on the state they can be quite expensive. In SC yearly tax on NEW cars are $500 and decrease from there but often couple of hundred dollars. You'll always buy something new for it, oil change etc, etc. On the other hand its always fun to have a new toy. Extra cars rarely save you money. Save the money.  I would put it into debt. 

You will notice that moving a person from side to side will affect the ramp and wash on the wake. You DON'T need to ballast the boat equally at all times. You will also notice putting a person in the bow will also affect the wake. Finally, weight distribution can have a greater effect on boats with a deep V bottom than a boat with less of a V.

Nice look. When my tag finally comes in, I will definitely need to look into this site. 

I would guess that the automatic mechanism within the bilge pump is stuck in the on position and is faulty. It is often a float that moves up and down with the water level. As the water goes up, the float follows eventually triggering the pump to turn on when it reaches a high enough level. If you have an Atwood pump, you will find the float when you remove the bilge pump from the strainer basket. 

Nice look and match with boat color. 

Awesome, thanks for the help Dr. Nate. Interesting idea about pop rivets kevin

I'm sure I am not the 1st to loose one of the small bimini set screws but I maybe the only one to loose all 4 in one day. I was wondering if anyone knew the size of screw used for the bimini on the gladiator tower. They look like the ones below. 

I too purchased a product (from west marine for $75 - had coupon)  similiar to the Mityvac. Essentially the exact same thing but does not have the "convenient pump out option".. I have to open the top drain spout and pour out the used oil. I like that you can clearly see how much has pumped out with little guessing. I attached a double ended female coupling (I picked up from home depot) to the evacuation tube that I now screw onto the engine drain hose. No mess. Funny, I had used it on other boats without difficulty but the 1st time on the centurion I could not get a drop of oil out. Tried all kinds of things and then finally decided to turn on the engine briefly ( 5 seconds) and the oil flowed out incredibly fast. Pressure from the engine running (?) must have cleared what may have been obstructing the drain hose. Subsequent drains with no problem.

 https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123?recordNum=5

This weekend my bilge collected less than a 1/2 gallon.

You can switch to synthetic but as infinity surf stated it will not alter the change interval on the oil. Especially pushing that much ballast the oil will take a beating. I previously read a thread that Indmar released addressing  this question and mentioned how the oil will shear down to a lower grade during use which is why it was important to use a heavy duty motor oil such as the 15w40. So I'm surprised the dealer is using a grade not recommended by the manufacturer and I would assume that could void a warranty claim. If your going to change to synthetic may as well grab a filter advertised for synthetic which I think supposedly filter out a higher % of particles. I'll search for the thread I mentioned. It was at another site. I always find it interesting how the oil pressure gradually decreases (some) on the oil pressure gauge as it starts to heat up but never budges on the cars and trucks I've had.

PCM has sent out service alerts for this concern and they state it must be drained to proper levels. Apparently the problem of overfilling the oil capacity is exacerbated by listing the boat. I don't know the year of your boat but this was the service alert in 2011. 

http://www.pleasurecraft.com/serviceupdate/sap2011-01.pdf

Also for some, they need to replace the original oil dipstick with a newer version. Fortunately, my engine did not require this. Simplistic fix just need to obtain proper dipstick. 

http://www.pleasurecraft.com/serviceupdate/sup2011-02.pdf

Done.... thanks for the help several months ago prior to purchasing my enzo 240. I'll get pictures posted hopefully soon.