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Jlagos

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Posts posted by Jlagos


  1. The bilge is (should be) wired to power at all times EVEN if the batteries are turned off. This ensures the pump always has power should water enter via rain or a leak and the batteries have been turned off. You will often see a small wire attached to the battery post. If you want to check, add enough water to your bigle and turn off the power when the sensor triggers the pump on. It should still run if enough water is still left in the bilge.


  2. Great point Hokiebob, when something funny us going on electronically I always disconnect power entirely and if stored off the water for extended time I disconnect the battery entirely. I found my cranking battery completely dead and unable to be revived after the float mechanism in the bilge pump got stuck in the on position. Also agree with "Infinity" that Noco makes a great product. I have one of those and also have a "Battery Minder" which works by a different method. It will not quickly charge your deep cycle battery if you want to get back on the water with with your sound system fully charged in a couple of hours but i like it during the winter and when stored.


  3. So it's very easy to check the pump rate. The black portion is the cartridge that will screw out of the yellow pump housing. The wing like appendages at the top are used to unscrew the cartridge. You dont not remove the housing from your ballast tanks. At 9 o'clock in your picture you can see a locking lever that you need to slightly unlatch. If you dont disengage this latch it will not come out until you break it. Take a look at the Johnson pumps online and you'll see the 2 parts and the unlocking latch that lays horizontally on the housing. Simply disconnect the electrical connection and connect the new one. Once you've done it, you could literally change one in a minute.

    • Like 1

  4. Does the same happen when in neutral? Can you rev above 3000 rpms and keep it there for a moment? Rember that in neutral the engine does not demand the same fuel flow as when overload but at least you can tell if the engine can sustain a high rpm. Like volzalum said check the fuel pressure and also check the connections in the fuel pump and sending units. I would try to see and run with the fuel cap off/open. Is a vacuum developing and therefore stalling the engine. Does the engine start immediately after stalling? 


  5. Multiple locations on the web will ship very quickly. I just ordered 2 water impeller pumps (one is for next year) from skidim.com and they shipped it that morning. They are located in SC. Depending on where your located it should get there by the weekend. I can't imagine it would be very difficult to change. A couple of hoses and bracket bolts to unscrew. The most difficulty thing is always the accessing the part that needs changing. I believe Skidim may also cross reference the engine you list and help make sure the parts are properly chosen. By the way, never order water pumps, spark plugs (especially the expensive ones), belts and other critical components from Amazon they are notorious for faulty, phony counterfeited products they will break. 

    • Like 2

  6. Sorry about the repeat post. Yes you have the transmission and vdrive correctly identified. The engine connects to the transmission and then the vdrive which is the  most front portion. It has the brass colored part you see spinning when in gear. I cant get my bearings straight with the picture you sent that has the connections. Like troy said, clean those connections. The pressure sensor I changed looked different 

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/vdrive-oil-pressure-switch/&ved=2ahUKEwj3prHb7oHqAhXkTDABHRzQAw4QFjAHegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw3-k4JxuYjWZ6pe9O_2Y5cp&cshid=1592157194902

     


  7. Problem 1: have you checked to see if electrical current is present at the pump when you flip the switch to drain? Your switch maybe bad. I would try visually inspect the drain lines and see how they are plumbed. I know you said you have a reversible puppy but do you also have a pump that drains separately and was disconnected electrically. When you fill maybe your overflowing properly via the overfill line but also pushing water out via a drain pump that is no longer wired?

    Problem 2: Its possible you have a faulty pressure sensor. My prior boat , a moomba, had  Walter's drive and needed a new sensor. Very easy to change. You disconnect 2 wires at the sensor and unscrewed it and then put in the new one. You can also get a pressure gauge that needs to measure the proper range. The Walter's drive i had ran at 2 psi but I never checked the pressure prior to changing.


  8. Problem 1: have you checked to see if electrical current is present at the pump when you flip the switch to drain? I would try visually inspect the drain lines and see how they are plumbed. I know you said you have a reversible puppy but do you also have a pump that drains separately and was disconnected electrically. When you fill maybe your overflowing properly via the overfill line but also pushing water out via a drain pump that is no longer wired?

    Problem 2: Its possible you have a faulty pressure sensor. My prior boat , a moomba, had  Walter's drive and needed a new sensor. Very easy to change. You disconnect 2 wires at the sensor and unscrewed it and then put in the new one. You can also get a pressure gauge that needs to measure the proper range. The Walter's drive i had ran at 2 psi but I never checked the pressure prior to changing.


  9. Volazalum, looks like you were correct it is a Walter's vdrive. Geez Scooper, do you think they sucked out all the lubricants and forgot to fill. Even though you overheated, why is EVERYTHING low. Was engine oil also low? From the partial picture, it appears you have a PCM engine. If so, dexcool should be the proper coolant. If you don't have an engine manual you can download them at the pcm  https://pcmengines.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/imagesL510010-13.pdf. the transmission dipstick looks to be consistent with 40 series transmission. It is checked with the engine running. Again double check with the manual. When running on the hose you typically dont increase above 1500 rpms as this can cause the hose to collapse and prevent water flow. I would definitely  change the impellar. 

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