Jlagos

Interesting I would have thought the 2013 had the power v-drive/transmission from PCM.

I don't know if Sea Deck still has a template but I looked recently at Gator step and they do appear to have a template for a Typhoon. May want to check with them for the year. If you look at the design on the page you should get a pretty good idea. https://gatorstep.com/product/centurion-typhoon/

I am not familiar with that model but by looking at pictures it appears to be have a center mounted engine. Just from reading other threads with similar configuaration, I would not anticipate the surf wave to be spectacular and you will need to throw a very large bag on the back seat. It would need to be filled by throwing a pump with hose over the side. Search the threads on here. There are people who surf with direct drives.

good to here of the simple fix.

Need to start with a look at all fluids including engine oil, vdrive and transmission fluid. Could you have developed a leak or did water contaminate the lubricants. The vdrive fluid does not typically require changing. Some vdrive are known to "chatter" in idle but I'm not aware of the PCM doing this. The sound will make your eyes open quickly however the sound resolves with increasing just past idle. Fuel is required in both forward and reverse and I dont understand why this would cause "clunking" sounds. The fault code was tripped by the exhaust manifold getting hot. Check your impeller which can unfortunately break at any time. Did your engine temp get hot? How about when the engine is running with water sports?

Interesting, good luck with the routing.

Welcome, most people eventually change the ballast system in order to weigh the boat sufficiently to create a bigger wave. A wake shaper will quickly facilitate creating the wave you need. There are many threads on this site so you'll have a good amount to read

If you have a strainer and your impeller is intact with all of its blades then you have no need to look else where for debris.

sounds like quite an endeavor. Have you tried changing the propeller to one with a different pitch to try and offset the loss in size of propeller?

The water strainer will be within a foot or 2 of the engine water intake and will be located before it reaches anything (some boats will not have one) . Follow the large hose from the bottom of the boat that eventually leads to the oil cooler/ transmission cooler. It is not unusual for the ballast systems to have the same type of strainer. A piece of the water impeller will not be in there because the impeller is down stream. As volzalum said, you still need to clear the codes. If your not familiar with the "water flow " to your engine look at your engine manual it will have a diagram for your engine.

I am not aware of a faulty impeller having the ability to trigger an alarm but maybe the newer boats will monitor water pressure. You mentioned you have not had a complete overheat so does that mean the engine temperature increasing when the alarm sounds? If the engine is getting warmer, then change the impeller and see what happens. If the temp continues to misbeahve make sure you have not sucked up something via the water intake so check the water strainer. If you don't have one I believe the next area to check is leading into the vdrive.

I too have this problem. My buzzer sounds off immediately with starting the engine (no buzzer if ignition is on without engine running) and then it buzzes about every 5 minutes. I took it into local dealer and they confirmed that everything is running properly and believe the fault maybe with the digital display at the helm. They contacted Medallion who makes the screen but they were closed due to the Covid19 scare. I will be contacting them soon to see if they have received a response. Does your screen (warning buzz) only sound off with the engine running or will it sound with only the ignition in the on position (engine not running)? In the mean time, I taped a ping pong ball to the buzzer to mute the sound because it's killing my ears.

Here is a link that might interest you. Turtle wax received top kudos. I wonder how there new ceramic spray product would work on gel coats? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/searching-for-spray-shine&ved=2ahUKEwiphsC0g8TpAhUxh-AKHVCpCF44FBAWMAJ6BAgFEAE&usg=AOvVaw1lqiBJeiOByOUuLDlguw9F

As rhino said water and vinegar work well and is very inexpensive. The vinegar helps with the water spots if you were not aware. I have used several products and find them to be very similar including star bright boat guard speed detailer, Meguiars ultimate detailer and 303 speed detailer. The supposed benefit of the latter group compared to the vinegar is they have UV inhibitors. If your boat is properly waxed it should make no difference. I do like the idea of applying ( at least thinking I'm doing good) the uv inhibitors. You will always need to wipe off the scum regardless. The star bright is supposed to have teflon so I wonder if this would work better. It would be interesting if you compared this product to the water and vinegar mixture and see if a difference is noticable in accumulation of scum and ease of removable.

Infinitysurf has an excellent review on the infinity wave surf tabs.

Anyone, Yesterday we were out wake surfing and suddenly the engine gave a screeching noise as if a belt was slipping and immediately I throttled to neutral. All gauge readings were normal with nothing unusual. The belt looks normal. No funny smells, sounds or vibrations. The vdrive gear oil has a normal color and level but the housing/case was hot. I seem to recall touching it in the past and it was much cooler than I had anticipated. I assume since the engine temp is running normal (163) that water is flowing properly through the vdrive to cool the unit. Am I recalling incorrectly the vdrive housing being only warm in the past and not HOT? I could hold my hand on the casing about 3 seconds before thinking youser that's kinda hot.

What about the tower. Does it have cut outside for tower feet/attachments?

It appears there are several people getting the same pattern of beeps. My 2010 enzo 240 screen reads "warning maintenance required" however I have personally completed all required maintnenace per the manual. Still waiting to get computer reading at dealer. Fortunately a new centurion dealer just opened close to me so maybe I can get in soon. Keep us upto date regarding your trouble and I'll do the same. Has your engine been connected to a computer to see if it gives any insight into the warning? It seems as though the beeping is occuring in boats around the same year.

That is the oddest request I have ever heard from a manufacturer. I can get for you the picture possibly this weekend. I assume the sv240 has the same hardware.

Ditto for me on 2010 enzo 240. All fluids and gauges are within normal limits. Found a thread that mentioned the knock sensor was a culprit however changing them did no good. Unfortunately the local centurion dealer has a back log of 5 weeks before thay can hookup the computer for a reading. Dang that warning beep sure is loud. I'll probably check into the local nautique dealer to see what's the wait there. In addition I'll change the fuel filters considering I skipped that this year. I'll let you know if it resolves the problem but I doubt it. Mine started beeping shortly after I noticed oil leaking past the oil filter gasket.

Infinity, I need to recant everything I said. You are correct and I misread the advisory. The recommendation is "dexos gen 2" and not dexos 2. So it will have the green dexos label. I need to delete my prior thread somehow.

Funny, they have always been adament about using conventional motor oil, but have obviously changed to synthetic. Its a good thing if they are willing to reassess there recommendations. Infinity, I read the thread you linked from planet natique and it appears they have some recs that I think are a little off. If you want to follow the change in the advisory you need to be aware that there are different dexos formulation. The pennzoil you mention and the Shell Rotella Gas truck (someone mentioned on planet natique) are dexos 1 gen 2 but both are "dexos 1" none-the-less. This formulation has the dexos with a green label and a small number 1 within the green square. It is meant for purely gas powered engines. The "dexos 2" has the label in blue and has a 2 in the square. The dexos 2 can be used in gas AND DIESEL engines. I suspect it may be more tolerant of the engine loads generated by surfing. It`s interesting they chose a lower viscosity oil that flows more freely when hot and cold. I found a link that lists the dexos 2 formulations .... https://www.gmdexos.com/brands/dexos2/index.html You may want to let the bretheren at planetnatique be aware of the different formulations.

Interesting you say that. The 1st time I changed the oil had the same problem. No oil came out despite lowering the hose as low as possible. Inserted extractor tube and again nothing. I had my son turn on the engine for about 2 seconds and the oil easily drained out. No problems since. I have placed a female thread on the extractor hose which screws onto the engine drain hose and not a drop of oil gets spilt. Some people are able to thread the drain hose through the hull plug opening. Didn't work with my boat. No other valve or cap to open.

Did not know that. I wish my 409 had blue plugs.

Considering you have blue drain plugs I assume you have a mercruiser black scorpion engine? Also I assume the stern is to the left of picture. If above are correct I would guess a recirculating pump or raw water pump.