DjOM21

What about the M50 Water Dragons that the factory uses?

https://www.covertlights.com/M50-xx12-1/

They claim to be 5500 Lumens each on the 12 Diode model. Which seems to be higher than the life form 9  for example for a comparable price.

If you do order another boat (Centurion / Supreme), make sure to have your dealer call the Factory Rep and see if they can kick in a extra discount for all the headaches with the S238.

I ran sumo 1000's and I busted out a divider. The fix is to get a #10 or #12 1 1/4" screws and replace the wimpy screws that come from the factory in the brackets. After that no more problems. Remember to use sealant on the screws as you are essentially screwing int the edge of the hardtanks.

Sumo 1000 and #800 pound of lead worked well all season and this was good with two people on the boat. I still liked to run 400# on the seat though when short on crew. 6 People and the wake was great.

I found storage more than adequate with this set up. I like you was not interested in mid ship water bags. Add more lead and let the forklift operator worry about it.

I find it doubtful that a FS33 is 5600#. 4600# Makes more sense. An Ri 237 is #5500 dry and that is a much bigger boat.

Yeah if your dealer is not stepping up to get all your issues sorted now in the offseason then its time for a call to Fineline to let them know. I don't know what your issues are but I am sure all can be resolved, except maybe the wakeboard wake thing. Ha!

I think Supreme is a quality boat. Even though I have had issues with my bimini, stereo, trailer, transducer and some minor stress cracks around  one tower arm - my dealer will get it taken care of in the offseason. During the  season its tough as most dealer are jammed up with big ticket  items, so knocking off these minor issues can take time. 

Is MB going to be better, who knows. Personally I think the Supreme 238 gets most things right - simple spacious classic boat that gets you all the modern convinces  for a decent price. I personally also prefer the pcm power plant to the indmar offerings. Once they add Opti-V and MORE Ballast this boat will be hard to beat. Nevertheless I am buying an Ri!

Good Luck and hold your dealers feet to the fire and get them to make it right. 

So how about a 2017 with H6 and CATS vs  a  2018 with HO 6.0 and No CATS? 

Good info gents.

The whole motivation for the question is to decide if a 18 is worth it over a 17. With the price increases and depreciation factored in I lean to a demo 2017 with a 16" prop if the surf waves are comparable.

As mentioned. Pull all the blue drain plugs and remove your hose for you heater and then blow down the line to get all the water out of your heater core. Also, read through your PCM engine manual, it should say the same thing. 

Cover up and wait for some warmer weather - we can get a few more surf runs in. I mean sunny and 15C Ambient  and 58C Water Temp is nice right? As long as the Damn wind stays away. 

Curious if the surf wave is impacted by the change  to the Opti-V hull on the Ri 237 for 2018?

 I understand that the efficiency and RPMs have improved with the hull changes and the move to a larger prop - but has this changed the wave? 

If Fineline would give this thing enough ballast to start and CATS it would be such a killer boat. Just give me a way to keep the wave face nice and clean no matter what the conditions. I don't wake board - so have little input on the wake there.

Also, if you are not running 1000 pound bags in each corner and 800-1000# of lead then yeah I could see how some people get a bad impression. I am over the whole list the boat philosophy now too. Fill the dam thing, drop the tabs and surf side to side all day. Quick and convenient. Works great for our needs  - everyone obviously is different. Still want an Ri237 with Opti- V but man the price uptick is no joke - so compromise.

S238 = Rock solid boat, great stereo, wicked power plant and roomy. Overall great value and straight up classy style. Is it perfect no - but what is?

Now I have seen some MB's that tun my head for sure - not keen on the dash at all - but other than that looks like a wicked boat. Not sure on the wave - but I am guessing it can out surf most of us.

Just buy a 257 - You demand the best surf wave , buy the biggest nastiest thing going - cost be damned. 

So can we retrofit the 2017 6.0 with the Livorsi? This boat already drives pretty great, but I may pony up the cost if it's reasonable and improves the overall experience of driving. 

Good points. 

The boat is going in this week, so I will put it through its paces and report back, 

Any update on this? 

Supreme sent my dealer a little dongle with a resistor on it. Yet to install and  may not even hassle with it if its the same part that did not fix the problem for Cwazy1.

^^^Oh ya - Speed = 11.5mph^^^^

14 hours ago, xj1514 said:

More stinger in my experience runs the wave longer, less is short pocket and very rampy. I use both, very dependent on the board for me of which style wave I ride. 

Have you tried filling the bow pnp as well?

Yes the stinger will do this but I usually have a light crew and find if its just two of us on the boat that running the stinger to far down just  squashes the power of the wave. Still surfable just more work, not my preference. With more people in the boat there may be more wiggle room with this while still being able to maintain the push.

I think my preference to lengthen the wave would be more bow weight as opposed to more stinger. I have tried the bow bag and have not noticed much of a change, but again this was with only a few people in the boat. I typically only fill the center tank and the wave is plenty long. I can get right into the break 25 feet back and ride if I want. 

I think there is a point where more weight will not make the wave better and once it's dialled that's probably as good as it will get. I had a big crew out and the boat actually struggled, so I dialled back  the ballast to smooth things out as it was no fun to drive. 

Anyway, everyone's prefernces are different. I just know that I have been getting a long, clean and poweful wave with a very basic set up and just two people in the boat and can switch sides in an instant. That is valuable for me and I think for most that need to switch often. 

Reference Checklist

1. Boat Model: 2017 238

2. Regular or Goofy: Both

3. Bow Ballast Percent: 0%

4. Mid Ballast Percent: 100%

5. QF Port Percent: 100%

6. QF Starboard Percent: 100%

7. PnP Port Weight: 1000

8. PnP Starboard Weight: 1000

9. Other Ballast Weight (ie. Lead): 800# - 200 Stb PNP, 200 Port PNP, 200 Stb midship, 200 Port Miship

10. Number of Crew and positioning: 2 

11. QuickSurf Port Setting: 0% Goofy, 100% Regular

12. QuickSurf Starboard Setting: 100% Goofy, 0% Regulat

13. Stinger Tab Setting: 0% Goofy, 0-15% Regular just to clean the wash. Stinger kills the wake unless you have a lot of people ballast on board. 

14: Picture: See below. 

I have to agree it is a great boat. I have 5O hours on mine and still kinda fiddling finding what works best. Lately I have been running quick surf  and it works well actually and is nice for switching sides since wifey is regular and I am darkside

I have sumo 1000s 200 of lead under each rear sack and 200 under each midship stacked flat on floor.  Everything full except bow bag. Surf side quick surf @ 100% and Stinger @ 0-15%. Good wave with just a driver and killer wave with 2-4 people on the surf side. Super clean on both sides when it calm, but chop /  wind can really funk things up. I was a bit surprised that QS actually works so well. I did find that when running quick surf minimize the use of the stinger tab as it kills the wave and the push. 

I would think Acme 1579 or 1619 is the best option as I believe the 13.5" diameter will be your limiting factor. The latter will have a lower pitch so theoretically should pull harder. 

I guess technically this combo represents 809hp and 1209 ft lbs of torque. 

1 hour ago, Cwazy1 said:

Yeah, you should barely be able to see over the bow for a great wave. Its all about sacrifices! 

Did you move your surf tab mount point yet? I found it made a huge difference on regular side. 

Personally I kinda like standing up when driving anyway. Let's get listed! Would help if the bolster was not so squishy.

Would be nice if this could get sorted. Sucks not to be able to enjoy this stereo. 

Just use a 4" hose clamp on cup holders. Make sure to spin  the screw towards the transom when tight, so it doesn't damage the ballast bag.

I have surfed goofy like this:

Port PNP = Empty

Port QF = 100%

100# Lead Back Corner

STB PNP (1000 Sumo) = FULL

STB QF = 100%

100# Lead Back Corner

150# Lead under Starboard Bench Seat

400# Fatsac on Starboard Bench Seat When light on crew.

Center Tank - 75%

Bow Sac - Empty

STB Surf Tab @ 55

Stinger 20 ish or just enough to clean it up.

Bow rides high and make it hard to see, other than that Seems to work ok, but conditions have choppy during  testing. Also , make sure you are in 18+ Feet of water - this makes a big difference.

I think a good setup would be 200# of Lead for each Rear Corner , 200# for each midships bench seats then 2 150# fat bricks for the seats for light crew days and  for quick transfers side to side.

I too would like the name of the font.

1 hour ago, NorSask said:

You bet!! You can find them on instagram @driftwakeweight they are out of Drayton Valley, great guy to deal with. I just DM'd him and he got back to me right away. I put my order in and he is even meeting me half way with them next week as I live 5 hours away. You can get custom colors, marine grade, double strapped with no seams, and 4 year warranty.

Nice - Good find.