DjOM21

So I am in the process of completing this mod with the 4" x 8.5" gbb sport baffle. Here are some thoughts; Leave the exhaust tips in. I pulled out one tip thinking it would be easier to install and it was not, I could just not get things lined up and ended up having to scrape silicone and reseal with 4200, which is messy and time consuming and generally annoying. So best method I found is as follows: - Undo all the hose clamps there should be 8 in total ( Per side) - Wiggle, pry, reef on the large rubber exhaust hose connected to the exhaust tip until you get one end free. Then take everything apart. - You should have disconnected one short piece of exhaust hose 7", One Corsa Piece (including electrical quick connect.), and another 14" or so of exhaust hose. - Now try to put it back together!!! - Take the small 7" piece and tap it all the way on to the black exhaust manifold. - Hook up the Corsa piece to the larger exhaust hose and reattach the other end of the hose to the exhaust tip and push it all the way against the exhaust tip / wall of the boat - Now you need to get the Corsa piece into the other end of the small exhaust hose. - The pitch of the exhaust tip leaves everything out of alignment so you will need to apply a fair amount of force to push everything down into alignment with the small exhaust hose. - At his point you will figure out you are hitting hose when getting it aligned and it wont fit - the solution here is trim the small exhaust piece back till you can get it to fit. My starboard side took less trimming than the port. Mine was about 1/2" but depending on your boat it may vary. So measure thrice and cut once. You can always take little off at a time until she fits. - Once you have trimmed the hose and got the pieces back together and spaced the way you like them - take it all apart again. - Now fit the gbb baffle into the large exhaust house as per the instructions. I think I had about 3" clear on the tip side of the hose and 2 1/2" clear ( to the mounting bolt bracket) on the Corsa side. You results may very - so measure. - Now once again put it all back together with the technique above, shimmy all the parts so you have a good amount of contact (2" or so) on all connecting pieces. - Exhaust manifold to hose - hose to Corsa - Corsa to hose, hose to exhaust tip. - Clamp it all back down - Move to other side. I think one good thing is to hit all the ends of the components with a little lube when test fitting as this allows you to move everything a bit easier. The 4" exhaust hose is so stiff and a complete donkey to work with - but doable. I have not tested the sound level or function yet, but gbb seem like a quality product and based on JP2s good review - hopefully this mod should be worth the expense and effort. However, had I figured out all I needed to do was trim some hose much earlier in the process this mod would have taken me way less time. Hope this helps.

Same problem here with a 2008 Sv230. The paddle wheel sits right near the bunk and gets damaged when I load. I think you are even supposed to put in the Trimar blank when trailering to protect the paddle wheel. Hassle. So I bit the bullet and bought Nautic Logic. I figured buy once and cry once and be done with that little paddle wheel.

I know I know - not another ballast question. But here it is: Need to know if anyone has rewired the stock ballast puppies in an Enzo SV 230 to run in Reverse. If so were you able to do it without swapping the switch bodies (ie, are the OEM switches 7 pin - boat is not near by so I cannot check.) Stock set up was 4 hard tanks and 1 Bow bag. Two pump puppies to fill through a manifold - aerators to drain..... Ripping it all out and adding two more reversible pumps to service two Enzo sacs and a manual bypass to fill the bow bag. Thanks All!

Yeah I agree that bow sac is a bit useless - I personally would rather have the storage and just throw a rider up there or my 400# fly high.

Good to know guys. Plan is to bypass sprinkler valves and then set up a system with full port ball valves and 1 1/8th" hose to use both stock jabscos to fill either port or starboard enzo sacs then drain with two aerators per bag. Sounds like it should work good. With two jabscos filling I imagine the fill time will be in the 8-10 min range. I can live with that!

Nice - Thanks Guys. I am currently thinking I may just utilize both existing jabscos as my fill pumps but route the discharge lines through isolation valves that allow me to route flow to port or starboard enzo bags. So that would give me two pumps per bag to fill but only at one time. I will have to crank ball vales to move flow - but I figure not to much of a big deal. I was then going to just keep the stock set up of two 1000gph aerator pumps per bag for the empty. Crossover the vent lines to opposite side to prevent siphoning and call it good. Any thoughts from the crew?

So - Looking at picking up and 2008 ENZO SV230. Decent deal, few scratches - have to redo some ballast, but other than that the boat has all the bells and whistles and price is decent. However after a bit of research it seems that it might be an uphill battle to get a good goofy (my side) surf going. I have read that you can add an A-Plate to help clean up the wash or that an Enzo Sac plus another 1000+ pounds will do well on starboard side. Seems like it manageable to sort these things out, just wanted to know if any one around here has dealt with this and if you found a solution you were happy with. Ultimately I could learn to ride proper (ha ha) or kick it heel side because I think its well established a Enzo regular wave is top of the pack. I am no pro surfer but want to be happy with my purchase. Anyway, I spoke with my Centurion dealer and he said he had a customer that has spent a lot of money trying to get a good goofy wave and that I would be better with an Avalanche, which I have also considered as lower price option - or an older V226 if I could swing it. Thought? - Thanks in Advance.

Yes this seems the most reasonable solution - A-plate and Weight. Did you ever sort out your spray issue? I have a line on a Centurion OEM A-plate that should work with some modification as it is a transom wall mount as opposed to the bottom mount that my current plate employs.

Yes I have read about that option. What is the price tag on that conversion?

Cool - Yeah I have the Bennett Trim tab that came with my boat, so I am good there. I mainly need to decide if I go with an under mount or transom mounted plate. I believe the OEM plates where transom mount with around 1/8" clearance from the bottom of the hull. I will do a bit more digging but will be curious to know how your set up turns out.

Thanks King. I am guessing then that the OEM switches are double pole single throw thus can not reverse polarity. Right now fill activates a Pump Puppy and Empty activates the associated aerator. So I figure these are what a guys needs? https://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moomba-ballast-switch.html I assume I can use my Factory switch plates? Thanks.

Bumpity Bump Folks - Spring is coming. Anybody made any progress?

Hey Super 1990 - I am in Alberta - Calgary and I am wondering who did your plate? & what the cost was? If you could let me know that would be stellar.

I want a set too. But price is way steep - especially for a Canadian. Although at $315 I may give them a whirl.

Stick a pipe wrench in the open end of the nipple to get some leverage and break it free. - worked for me.

Guys I am in the same boat here!! and in Calgary too. If you could put me in the loop on this that would be very cool.

Awesome indeed.

Yeah I am interested in this too. That $675 USD is $885 Canadian so funk that. I am in NW Calgary so maybe if a Cheaper baffle solution is not available we could split the cost of a GBB system and install on one of our side swipe boats to test for the rest of the crew. Either way with Hunting season around the corner, this will have to wait till spring.

So I am think that I have a thrashed transducer paddle wheel as I am not getting any speed readout on my main dash or perfect pass. All other gauges work fine. Paddle wheel looks thrashed. Seems to me they must have installed the through hull for this unit way before the boat ever saw the trailer, because this thru hull is way to close to the bunks. I am decent at loading the boat - but is is kinds ridiculous to expect that this system would actually hold up. I am currently running stargaze wake board pro. If I cap off the current transducer and add Stargazer GPS - Will I be able to tie my old dash board speedo in to pull off of stargazer module? I am assuming that stargazer will be much more accurate and that I wont have to worry about capping off my transducer every time I load the boat. Thanks Crew.

Yeah I might learn to live with it. The nauticlogic looks sweet and as mentioned 1/2 the price of the pp stargazer and you can patch it to your speedo and existing pp guage. I can pull my transducer and replace it with a blank for trailering. But he swap to gps, seems best and then transducer can just be left in to read water temp and depth. I think the only caveat is that the Nauticlogic wont service centurions past 2008 - I am guessing because of a switch to digital touch screen dispalys in 2009 perhaps?

Cool I will look into this - looks like a great option.

2008. Ok so the transducer controls the speed, temp and water depth, with the speed sensors being the wheel? I guess I can just pull the part number and replace the wheel, then use the blank when loading and unloading to protect it? Terrible placement of the through hull though. Right on the friggin bunk. Will look at the GPS upgrade as it probably would be best. I just like having everything working the way it should.

Got it - Thanks......That is an expensive piece of kit.

Hey I am down in Calgary too and have a similar boat. I would not mind seeing your set up sometime..... So if I understand - you weight both sides of the boat with 1600 lbs then use the wave control to shape which ever side you are surfing? Also, where did you get the wave control and how much was it? Tried google but no luck.

HI Guys, 2008 Enzo SV230 Having a few issues with the brackets on my evolution tower. Brackets are for the long legs of the Bimini that attached to main tower not the front support legs. I mainly need to know the orientation of the button that releases the legs. I pulled the brackets to do some work on the bolts that were securing them but forget which way they came off. They are currently attached with the release button on the top of the bracket (see pictures). I recently had a bolt strip out so I though maybe they were attached wrong, but i was transporting the boat with the Bimini on the the rear brackets, which I havr since realized was wrong. If someone could have a look at theirs and let me know the orientation that would be great. Also, my support brackets on the front arms of the tower have rubber shims - but the back ones that I am having issues with do not. Needless to say they fit pretty poorly on the tower. Is this normal or am I also missing shims? Finally, seems like starboard Sunpad is warped a bit ( see photo) any ideas how to straighten the board inside? Thanks Crew.