jtryon

here's a couple that i found before angling the exit tube much like yours.  i think you will have an easier time getting yours to stay on--mine took a couple tries.  similar to your rivet idea, i drilled pilot holes and used stainless screws through the exhaust exit ports, as well as attached a reinforcement to my trim tab.  one difference i see is that i used leftover rubber exhaust manifold tubing for the first 1' or so off the boat.

awesome!  i did the exact same thing out of abs last spring and it worked great all season.  no issues with the heat of the exhaust water--keep in mind the boat is sitting in the water when running so the lake water cools the exhaust too.  but even when running on the hose it doesn't even get hot to the touch.  nice fab work!

do you mind me asking what this avy sold for?

i don't think i'd ever do that unless a fellow member was willing to check it out for you, or at minimum hire a recommended boat mechanic in that area to check it out for you. IMO it's worth the plane ticket out to look it over yourself so there's no surprises, then have it shipped once everything checks out. you could even try to get the seller to knock $500 off to cover your trip.

i don't like that tower placement very much. looks like a tower that someone put too far back because they didn't know any better

resale is going to be tough on yellow, green or purple, if you're worried about that. IMO the best looking boat you posted is the red/grey.

i would do "slappers" as the guys on the MB board call them. malibu surfgate-style gates fully automated can be done for less than half of the wavecontrol system, and is a very proven system. martinarcher on the malibu forums has a kit with everything you need for the automation other than the actuators, and tons of guys over there use it with great success. get that, actuators and some 3/4" HDPE tabs and you'll be able to switch on the fly just like the new boats. IMO the benefit of the malibu-style system is that you don't need to run as much weight as wavecontrol which means less gas burned each time out.

two threads to look through if you need convincing:

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/4331-slappers-kcso-part-1/

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/4348-slappers-kcso-part-2-installation/

Being a material scientist, I just can't contemplate not using a vacuum bagging technique...It makes zero sense on so many levels.

not being a material scientist, what is the benefit?

for those of you who have watched the RI257 video, at 3:30 in where they show the exhaust tube that connects to the trim tab--what do you think that tube is made of? that an ingenious idea instead of the FAE that most do.

Here's an 07 Avy with the Storm 3 and walk through transom with an enzo sack:

 

 

I had the enzo sack custom made, it went from the rear locker to all the way up under the observer's seat and I calculated it to be around 1800lbs. With light crews I would also throw a 400 on the seat or a 150 brick on the swim platform. IMHO if you went with an 1100 you'd probably be putting more bags or lead on your port side, with an enzo most everything would be hidden and you wouldn't have to worry about more bags taking up seats. I never found my Avy to like counter weight, so I never ran any. Hope this helps, others will certainly chime in

the spray off the starboard side, is that from a ghetto gate/suck gate?

i have a 351 windsor in my supra but it's a PCM motor. it's a LH/standard rotation engine using a 1:1 tranny and LH prop. you can tell on the PCM motors by the tag on the motor--starting with PL is a left-hand rotation and PR is right-hand. not sure if indmar did the same?

how can you tell if your motor is rh or lh

do you know if you have a LH or RH prop? that's the easy way. LH props will naturally have a cleaner surf wake on the port side, while RH's will have a cleaner starboard surf wake. post a pic of the prop here and i can tell you which it is.

is your starter the correct rotation? if you have a LH drive and RH starter or vice versa it would still start i've heard, but would cause damage.

i can't get over how cheap the interior looks. it looks like all the seats are built out of that same thin material that you would find on one of those portable stadium seating chairs.

i would tighten it more than that, just make sure you double-check when you get on the water to make sure that tightening it didn't affect how much it's dripping. mine is pretty sensitive--if i get the drip right where i want it (every 20 seconds or so) then tighten it up sometimes it moves the main nut just enough to start dripping too much too little. takes a few tries to get it just right.

Couple of Centurions mid-atlantic:

 

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/boa/5599059733.html

that one's definitely a scam.

I used a $7 rope ratchet off amazon and a 5x7 waterproof velcro pad attached to the cover. Took a D ring and used the hook side of the velco to hold the D ring. So far it works well and I didn't need to cut a hole in my cover. It rains a lot around here so the waterproof velcro is a must.

I did the same with the rope ratchet and some strong magnets--one for each side of the cover and one side having a hook on it. haven't tried it yet but should work well as the magnets are really hard to separate once put together.

Just saw this 2011 Avy for 30K: http://madison.craigslist.org/boa/5524144719.html

does it come with only one or two per package?

i would be interested as well, if there is a smaller version that could be made.

i wouldn't think that as long as no damage is visible, which should be easy to see, the prop could pretty easily be buffed out to be as good as new for WM.

when i ordered my Acme prop from Nettles, they told me if it didn't work for my setup they would gladly take it back and ship me a lower-pitched prop. i would suggest working with Acme directly as stated above.

awesome build. is the wave better now than it was when slammed on the surf side with no gate?

 

Hey I am down in Calgary too and have a similar boat. I would not mind seeing your set up sometime..... So if I understand - you weight both sides of the boat with 1600 lbs then use the wave control to shape which ever side you are surfing? Also, where did you get the wave control and how much was it? Tried google but no luck.

i'm guessing 800 per side. the surf system is here, formerly known as "GSA" or GoSurfAssist: http://www.wakemakers.com/wavecontrol if you search gosurfassist you will find a lot more threads on the subject on various boats.

Wave looks great! Any of the goofy side?