jtryon

i got my stock replacement ones for my '07 typhoon with 3 separate rear compartments from rvandautoparts.com for like $11 each.  the part number was GSNI-5200-40 for the center engine cover and GSNI-5100-40 for the side compartments.  does yours have one big cover or three separate ones?  you will need the brackets for both sides as well if you don't have struts currently--i think the above site had those as well.

only problem with that is that it's not for a C4 typhoon, so the area on the driver's side would be much different, and no walkthrough pad.  i haven't found one of the 3 (seadek, gatorstep, aqua marine deck) that have a template yet for the C4 typhoon.  if you do draw up a template with one of those 3 companies, please let me know as i would be in the market this winter as well!

definitely use nettles for your prop repair, they are the best!  i'd stick with the 911.

misalignment is pretty likely given that you rebuilt everything recently.  did you check the alignment when you put it back together?

16 hours ago, Troy said:

I just put insulation around mine. I love that cooler. 

from the outside/bottom i'm guessing?  how'd you get at it?

it's a good system and has more features than the PP model of the most similar price point.  no one will say it's the best out though, just because they will never get the market share that PP has.  i wouldn't hesitate to buy one though if i was in the market.

if it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal, you should 100% install one first.  the best thing to do is to keep water out of the boat, particularly the bilge where it can splash on everything.

can anyone tell me where the starter relay is on the 2007 5.7L black scorpion?  i get mixed responses when searching where some show it as a round relay on the top of the starter itself, and have also seen some responses saying it's on top of the motor.

weird that they would say that, i see replacement parts here: http://perfectpass.com/?q=parts

and if you search online, there's a bunch of sites that have them, if PP themselves don't want to provide them.  example https://www.mniboats.com/Perfect-Pass-Speed-Control-Complete-Servomotor-on-p/smb1002.htm

i would keep the paddlewheel GPS and just get a replacement servo motor for $189 if your PP screen is fine.  when you start the boat, do you see the motor initialize by tightening itself a couple clicks?

On 4/6/2020 at 10:08 AM, Scooper said:

https://www.rockinghammarine.com/inventory/2013-centurion-avalanche-c4-johnson-city-tn-37615-10525368i

 

What do you guys think of this one?

looks to be in good shape, not sure if 49k is high or not.  for comparison:

https://www.onlyinboards.com/2014-Centurion-Avalanche-SS-for-sale-Clarksville-Tennessee-109015.aspx

do an a-plate and that should make the goofy wake much nicer.

i saw one in a FB group for 20k in FL recently.  it's on '04 but a C4 so that's a good find.  it's in the "wakeboard boats for sale" group, under seller's name Lawrence Tinner, if that helps find it.

you may have to blow out the speedo tube to fix that.  the tach should be running off engine signal though, so i'm not sure why that would be inaccurate.

for those that have removed sideswipe, were you able to get the old exhaust ports on either side off?  they don't budge when i take the screws out and try to hammer them out with a board between the exhaust port and hammer.  i'm guessing they're 4200/5200'd in...do i need to take a heat gun to them first?

how much loss in speed from a tsunami 1200 will i see if i go from the 1" drain outlet down to the stock 3/4" hose for draining the ballast?  i'm upgrading the broken yellow stock ballast pumps and it's pretty difficult to get at the original 3/4" thru-hull used for emptying, so i may just run new 1" hose from the tsunami drain port to the very end near the thru-hull drain and convert it from 1" to 3/4" at that point.  will that kill my drain speed?

if you're stepping up the speed i'd suggest upgrading everything else along with it so you get the true speed increase out of those pumps.  run the proper gauge wire to the pumps to handle the increased power demand, and upgrade the hose and thru-hulls along with it.  you can get 1.5" hose here for cheap: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/trident-marine-series-147-extra-heavy-duty-bilge-and-livewell-hose

nice find!

i didn't realize the stock system was just one pump.  if you have to upgrade hose anyway, consider putting a big freaking pump in there like the Rule 17A--this is the one that Ronix uses for their 3700GPH Eight.3 system (throw-over-the-side pump).  no one is rebranding it yet as a plumbed-in pump, but if you upgrade/add your thru-hull to a 1.5" and use 1.5" hoses, that pump will fill those bags super fast.  i used the Ronix system for a few years on my last boat and it would fill and drain 800lb bags in about 3 minutes.   you can find fittings and all that for 1.5" hoses here, since none of the online ballast retailers are really selling anything over 1 1/8" yet: https://store.flow-rite.com/products/marine.html?cat=64

if you want to keep it simple and don't care about blazing speed, you can just build an intake off the stock thru-hull with 3 outlets and add two more tsunami 1200's to it.  my typhoon came with an intake like this, so if you need an idea of what to build i can take some pics of it for you.  tsunami 1200's only cost around $40; were you looking to use impeller pumps instead?  don't forget two more aerator pumps to drain if you're sticking with aerators, unless you're reusing the stock drain pumps.  usplastic.com has 1 1/8" hose for $1.49/foot, so get some measurements and buy enough to upgrade the hose at the same time.

interesting you say that because i tried to get mine out for the first time since buying the boat and the t-handle snapped off.  i guess the PO only removed the rear one  when coming off the water.  i'm guessing if yours leaks it's probably a threaded hole that someone replaced with a rubber compression-style plug.

this topic is 5 years old

$2,000 is way too much to spend IMO, unless you're getting a huge speed upgrade along with it.  the center ballast is only 250lbs, so you can leave the stock pump for that and upgrade the other two for the rears.  or add a second thru-hull and two more 1200 tsunamis to it, with two filling each rear bag.

i went a different direction but can't speak to if it's going to work as well as i hope until i get it in the water in the spring--i went with a Rule 1600gph pump for each rear bag because it still uses the same size inlet and hose as the tsunami 1200 that it's replacing.  then i will move the tsunami 1200 to the drain port location on each rear bag, replacing that crappy 500gph or whatever stock drain pump.  going 1200 to 1600 doesn't sound like a big deal, but the Rule pumps are just so much more efficient in my experience than the tsunami's.  here's a pic for comparison:

i found a friend who will make me replacement light covers on a 3D printer, so i'm all set there.

does anyone have a use for the stock muffler and sideswipe valves that came on these?  i pulled all that off yesterday in preparation to do my own version of FAE.

from everything i've seen, they don't reproduce skins for anything more than a few years old.  a competent upholstery shop should be able to make it look close to original though.

i can do that...in the spring

it was showing between 12-13 at the dash the two times i had it out this fall, but now just registers nothing at all.  that's why i figured there might be an easy wire to check in the off-season.

bump...my volt meter also stopped working so i'm wondering what to check.