jtryon

bump...my volt meter also stopped working so i'm wondering what to check.

here's my research after wanting to have the PN's for these locally and not mercury-specific (read: more expensive): oil filter - NAPA Gold FIL 1060, Purolator L34631. I used the Purolator and can confirm it's the correct one, and also taller so better filtration than the stock mercury fuel filter - Quicksilver 802893Q01. amazon link here: for $12 and arrives next day. some other stuff that you may find helpful: impeller here: for $22 and arrives next day. haven't verified this fits yet but it matches all the part numbers i've cross-referenced. serpentine belt is a Dayco 5060880 which is $19 on amazon. mercury wants like $80 for theirs. i installed this yesterday and can verify it fits perfectly. the other one that i cross-referenced but can't verify fit is the NAPA 25-060878. also get an IAC valve to at least have as a spare. read up on this as it is a very common problem on these motors but easily fixed with a new IAC valve and filter.

i did a little digging after you said that and the boost pump looks to be the one right off the fuel filter on the rear port side. i will get a spare one of these and a spare tank pump. thanks! new question: what to check when the alternator isn't showing any charge at all on the dash? the old one was pretty beat up but was showing a charge when we had it out on the water twice before winterizing, but the seller included a new alt which i just swapped in. the old and new one stopped showing a charge when running off the hose in the driveway. all wires to the alt are clean.

how difficult was the install on your boat with the factory shaft seal? any tips?

so, pop the flame arrestor off and spray down the throttle body?

@InfinitySurf, do they have any with centurion templates? or how did you get the logo on yours?

it doesn't have the stepped hull thankfully, from what i've read that went away in '06. 1. i checked GLS previously and didn't see the lenses. they are a great resource for some other stuff i need though, thanks. 2. do you have a PN for the fuel pump? can it run off of the front one in a pinch? what's the life expectancy on them? i will have an extra prop and prop kit, and extra fuel/water separator. 4. PP works and is a paddlewheel not GPS--i didn't realize the speedo used a paddlewheel as well. i will crawl underneath and figure out if there are two of them. 5. that makes more sense probably with the amount of space in that front compartment. thanks!

this is my first winterization of my '07 typhoon, coming from an '88 carbed Supra. i always fogged down the carb on the old motor, easy peasy. is everyone fogging their Black Scorpion's or other fuel injected motors through the spark plug holes? or is it not necessary on these? TIA. this was a very helpful thread BTW, thanks!

thanks for the input, i may have to go that route.

Anyone either have a used one or know where I can get one made? TIA!

if you are looking to sell that custom sac i may be interested depending on what it has for fill/drain ports etc. send me a PM if so!

anyone have video of the sound while crusing and/or surfing? just bought a 2007 typhoon and it is LOUD over 17mph, not something i can deal with. I was just going to go with the FAE conversion, but if these really work i may just go with silencers.

i'm looking at an '07 avy with 130 hours and the black scorpion. would you get a compression test on a motor that has that low of hours, or lake test and decide from there? if not, at what hours do you start thinking about confirming the shape of the motor with a compression and/or leakdown test?

thanks for the advice guys

more weight!

also interested in pictures and details

wow i love the look of that, great choice!

i've never been a fan of the older MB graphics--flames are a love/hate thing. they are good boats however, but i'd probably go centurion unless you don't get a good feeling about it once you go look at it.

Here you go...no ballast in this pic, 25 mph. I was a little heavier on the driver's side hence the wash to the port side.

i can take some tomorrow when i go out but, it doesn't interfere at all with the wakeboard wake. i also added a surf flap this year to knock the spray from the exhaust down at surf speeds which helps both the surf and wakeboard wake.

thanks, PM'ing him now.

thanks bomoseen, that's very helpful.

In the various upgrade threads I've been reading I haven't found anything that answered these questions. The Avy and the Tige 24V are the two possible boats that I'm looking to upgrade to next, and I know the older versions of either of these boats (I'd be buying 2003-2005ish to stay in my price range) have small ballast systems stock. With this in mind, I came across an '03 Avy ad the other day and looking closer at the stock ballast drain location on the starboard side it seems that the 3 exit holes are really close together. If I was going with an aerator pump upgrade instead of switching to an impeller system, is it possible to enlarge those drain holes to support a bigger pump and hose or are they too close together for that? Additionally, would it just be plug-and-play to swap in new bigger pumps and hoses re-using the stock switches or are electrical upgrades needed to support that as well? I'd be wanting to go with Rule 17A (3700gph) pumps to fill the Enzo sacks that would be installed.

2006 is when they went to the 1.46 ratio from what i've heard

Example I pulled off the web....those drain holes don't look like there's much room for enlargement to support a bigger pump and hoses.