Wake it Up!

Yesterday I noticed that my tower has developed a crack right at the weld on the top starboard side of the tower where it starts to make the bend over the boat. It is a 2005 Avalanche with a G-Force tower from Pro-Flight. I have seen a couple others with this same tower and similar problems and Pro-Flight took care of them. But on the probability that my boat is now 8 years old, and they might not be able to help me, any one else ran into this issue? If so, how did you fix it? I am thinking that I can have it welded again and maybe have a beef-up plate installed to prevent it from cracking again/ What do you guys think? Here are some pics.

Well the tower is fixed, have to see how the repair as well as the rest of the original tower holds up. So far so good. Ended up putting a re-enforcement pipe inside the tower between the breaks. did this procedure on both sides and had it re-welded by a shop. This is a pic of the pipe I had inserted, ended up being 9 inches on each side. The pipe is 2" outer diameter with a 1/2" wall thickness, 6061 extruded aluminum. Pretty good chunk of metal. Here are some pics of the tower after it was welded back together. Its all back on the boat and seems to be a little stiffer than before, but I could just be imagining things. Time will be the true test. If it holds up, I will probably take the tower and have it powder coated. Anyway, I hope this helps someone out down the road. I know it really ruined my day at the lake when I noticed it. Now all is good and total cost of repair with materials was 145 bucks, way better than buying a new tower. (hopefully)

Nick, Thanks for the info. If it keeps happening, hopefully I have more money to throw at it. I have already dropped over a g on upgrades and repairs so far this year. Not to mention the money I have spent on new surf board, and other goodies. I will probably just keep repairing it myself though. I guess I will have to see how this first repair turns out.

Thanks for the input guys. I pull boarders only, no tubes from the tower. I do have heavy speakers, 2 Wetsounds 485s. Although according to other threads I have found, Pro-Flight has said the tower should stand up to them, but I believe that the tower itself is a poor design if you want a decent stereo up there. I'm sure that the tower would have never had a problem had there not been any speakers up there, but we all know that would suck. I knew I was going to be taking a risk putting them up there, but before buying a new tower to make sure, I figured I would try my luck. The weight of the speakers combined with the stellar highway system of Arkansas, stressed it too much. It did last 2 summers though. Any way, after trying to get in touch with Pro-Flight and leaving several messages with no response, and reading Nick213's post, I'm fairly certain its going to be up to me to fix it. I do not plan on replacing the existing tower though. Right now my plan is to cut the tower at the crack, insert a re-enforcement pipe, and re-weld. I also plan on repeating the process on the other side of the tower as I'm sure that side is next to go. I will post pics as I move through the repairs for others viewing pleasures.

Are you getting any kind of warning horn?

When we are just sitting on the water, they are clear and crisp as can be. But once we start moving, they sound like garbage. All wires are tight on both the amp, stereo leads, and on the speakers themselves. My stereo face seems to be loose, but its only the 485s that do it, the interior speakers sound fine, so I really dont thing that s the problem. Voltage also stays around 13 too. All grounds and power wires are solid as well. Could my wetsounds amp be bad? Any one else ran in this? Im running two 485s bridged with a SYN4 amp. All only a little over a year old. Thanks for any ideas!

I havent added anything new. All is the same as it was last year. I have dual batteries (Perko) and they are maintained by a dual onboard charger that stays plugged in throughout the week. I am thinking input power as well, or amp. I am going to try a couple more things next time we are out on the water. Thanks for your thoughts.

Ok, here is what I can answer so far, 1. I'm not sure if its clipping but it sounds like a radio station when it is losing ist signal. 2. No new noise, just static like distortion or what you mean when you say clipping. 3. I dont think its shock or vibration, but it could be. 4. If the engine is running, at idle they sound fine, it does it once i put in power and start moving. So its either power related or vibration. 5. Yes both channels. 6. I only hear it when Im behind the boat while the volume is turned up, but I can turn the volume up and its clear as day when the boat is not under way at about 3500 rpm. 7. It makes no difference what music is playing. No bass or ones with bass. It also only started doing it after we had been on the water for about an hour. It wasnt doing it at first. 8. Only listen to the stereo on AUX mode with IPOD or phones. 9. The gain is about mid way, but like I said before, sounds great when we arent moving, so I dont think the amp settings are causing it as I havent adjusted them since I first installed the system last year. 10. IPOD settings were adjusted and no difference. 11. I have not yet checked the voltage at the amp, but the batteries are well above 13. Hope that helps, I am going to try to eliminate the head unit by using a headphone/rca adapter cord and go straight to the amp with that and see if that helps next time out. I would like to think that the wetsounds gear is fine and it is something else.....

Last summer, I changed props due to damage on the old one and when I did, I dropped the pitch and went up in diameter. I'm not 100% sure what prop I went up to, but I think it was a ACME 497, I will have to look at next time I go up to where it is stored. Any way, the next time we were out on the water, the engine had developed a miss and it would backfire from time to time at cruise. I tried to duplicate this problem out of the water but it does fine on the fake a lake. It seems to only do it with the boat under way with its own resistance. I haven't changed the cap, rotor, or spark plugs in the last two years, I was going to probably start there, but I was wondering if any of you guys had heard of this before and see what else you think it might be? Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

Thanks, I'm willing to bet it is a Cap/Rotor/or plug gap issue. I have no alarm beeps, I also had the warning horn issue two years ago for a bad block pressure sensor. I also have no unusual vibration as a bent/crooked prop would indicate.

I lowered the pitch, but I'm not at WOT when it happens, just about 3000 RPM while towing and about 4000 when going around the lake. I also haven't got a warning horn, I will hook up my diagnostic tool and see if I'm throwing codes next time I run it though.

I have recently purchased a 2005 Avlanche C4 and I'm new to the whole V-Drive system. My last boat was an inboard/outboard. Anyway, today while pulling some tubers, it was probably 95 degrees outside with 90 degree water on the surface. When all the sudden, the warning horn went BEEP....BEEP, then there was silence for a few minutes, then BEEP...BEEP again. The water temp is normal, oil pressure is fine, both at idle and higher RPMS, Volts seem a little low at 12.5 ish, and fuel qty is fine. Vdrive light goes out like it is supposed to, and all fluids are good. I pulled the boat out of the water, didnt want to chance it. Does anyone know what this might be? Could my alternator be going? Any ideas? Thanks again.

I just put a new acme prop on mine and they said to torque to it to 30 ft lbs.

Hey H, who did you send the prop out to? I have two props that need to be repaired and if they can do their magic and re-pitch/cup them, that would be great!

I just purchased a new Acme 1361 prop since I messed mine up last weekend. I was wondering if anyone else has this prop on their Avalanche and was wondering how performance is affected? I am going to get my current one fixed and have it as a spare too, but the one I have on there is not stock either. Some one put a 13.0 X 16 on there, I believe it is a 517? Anyway, if anyone has any info that's awesome. Thanks.

I had a similar problem last year. It is more than likely a sensor issue. I ended up buying a diagnostic computer since the shops couldn't get my boat in in a timely manner. There is a ton of info in the thread I had for it last year. Here is the link. My link Hope this helps.

Nope, its just connected at the rudder and runs up to the rack.

Mine was doing it last year, and my speedo was inop so I changed the gauge and it seemed to fix it. But last weekend my volts went to zero while I was wakeboarding, when it did my perfect pass shut off and the boat started hauling tush. My volts came back as of now, and I chased wires and cant find anything loose. I think that these gauges are just poor quality. Has anyone here upgraded theres. I have an 05 Avy and Im at a loss as to why my volt meter keeps having problems. Volts at alternator and batteries are more than fine.

That look great man. Nice work!

Thanks H. I wasn't too concerned, but all this talk lately just made me want to clarify. Thanks again.

H, My right manifold is hotter than the left, I also changed my impeller this year and my temp stays below 170 at idle and just above 170 under cruise. That is with 72 degree lake temps. Should I be concerned? Also how do I troubleshoot if there is something causing less water flow? Thanks man.

My 05 Avy! Ignore the guy in back, thats not me!

No problem, glad I could be of help!

The grease zirk fitting is probably clogged. Take a piece of wire and see if you can get it to offset the little ball on the fitting, then see if it will take some grease. If not you will probably need to replace the fitting.

I just changed mine on my 05 Avlanche and it was a 19' Teleflex Xtreme. Part number SSC15419. Here is a link to where I found mine. Teleflex Xtreme