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Finally got rid of my carpet and replaced the old flooring with Gator Step. Took a little time to get the template right but very pleased with the results.

Sure this is my 85 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pZNl9UcEQoLYdknQXSFeNsEmpnGCzcXu/view?usp=sharing This is my 86 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7att_AaOzodIeOW9tc1KOzkRCn48Loy/view?usp=sharing

My Diacom software showed up. I installed it on a Windows 10 image in Parallels on my MacBook Pro. The software was able to read everything on my engine, and was able to clear my old O2 sensor codes. Other than the price, the software seems fairly good. It gave a histogram of how my engine has been run, the Amount of time At each RPM level, the octane of the fuel, etc. It also reads fuel flow while the engine is running. I plan to take it out this weekend and record some runs to see how the boat performs.

if it doesn't have a dripless shaft seal, you should 100% install one first. the best thing to do is to keep water out of the boat, particularly the bilge where it can splash on everything.

On my 2015 FS44, my boat came from the factory with a 15” prop. The boat performed awesomely with that prop until the end of the first season and I noticed significant Gelcoat burn. Centurion put a 3/16 Inch steel pate on the boat which only allows a 14” prop. The last 4 seasons have been very frustrating performance wise. I am about to make some adjustments to get back to a larger prop. I took measurements and have sufficient motor mount adjustments to ship the prop shaft strut to gain some back. By my calculations, I have enough clearance in the prop shaft log to change the prop shaft angle 1 degree after engine alignment. On the FS44 there is a recess where the strut anchors. I am having a Stainless plate (~7-5/8 x 3-5/8) made to sit in the recess that has a 1 degree taper across the plate (bow to stern) which is a little over ⅛ inch on the long side. This will align the strut bearings with the new prop shaft angle. Additionally, I am going to remove and reinstall the steel plate the way the factory should have done it - by recessing it into the fiberglass. Between the shim and the recessed plate, I should gain nearly an inch of clearance on the prop. I’m hoping to get to a 16 inch prop size, but may have to settle for a 15.5 inch after everything is secured. I know that a 15 worked great, so anything larger will be even better. I will document this with some pictures and discussion once I get it complete (hopefully by mid-July).

go to the engine diagnostics screen on your dash (one to lower right). Check for which code is thrown. Some will continue to alert until cleared. To clear you either need the Diacom software or take it to a dealer. Some codes will clear themselves after a few power cycles, but many require the ECM to be cleared.

I am not aware of a faulty impeller having the ability to trigger an alarm but maybe the newer boats will monitor water pressure. You mentioned you have not had a complete overheat so does that mean the engine temperature increasing when the alarm sounds? If the engine is getting warmer, then change the impeller and see what happens. If the temp continues to misbeahve make sure you have not sucked up something via the water intake so check the water strainer. If you don't have one I believe the next area to check is leading into the vdrive.

https://www.boardco.com/centurion-strut-stsl16 I think I found it.

Looks like STSL 16 to me (I think if it was an 8, it would be rounder. You may have more...and much faster responses for a technical question like this on the Centurion/Supreme FB page. Lot of activity over there

Thanks for the feedback. Makes me feel a little better. I reached out to a few other locations (not local) and got 85k (price I was thinking was fair) at both but with shipping I'm getting close to the 89k. I'm just going for it and hope that when I need them for service or future sales that they'll take care of me. I do get a discount at their shop for a few months so I'll take advantage of that as much as possible. Taking her out for maiden voyage tomorrow.

And I do get that you are talking the angle of the prop shaft to the hull, which is currently 16 degrees, and with my shift will be 17 degrees which may raise the nose slightly under thrust. I can say that the larger prop gives more rise on the rear (I had to add 250 pounds to the nose when switched to the 14 inch prop just due to prop change) so I’m hoping that with a 15.5 or 16 inch prop the rear lift will counteract the change in thrust angle of 1 degree.

My 2014 SV244 was bought new at Transition, good dealership in my experience. The ZR409 is a great motor, I have had zero issues with mine but also stay on top of maintainance. FYI...for what its worth, in July 2019, PCM put out a bulletin changing the oil specs to DEXOS2 5w-30 motor oil.... previously it was speced with 15w-40. Since boat is a 2013....you may wanna ask if some service work has already been done so you know whether you need to do it since at 500hrs or 5yr they recommend that the DEXCOOL coolant is replaced. If it has the power plus v-drive like mine, that specialty fluid is also replaced at 5yrs. The trans is regular DEXIII and I change mine every Fall. The spark plugs are also a 500hr/5yr replacement item, they are the iridium tipped plugs and a pretty penny tho when I changed mine at end of 2018 I found a $3 rebate per plug at Advance Auto (don't buy those plugs on Amazon, they are often fakes). An easy way to see if the ballast puppy pump impellers need to be replaced is too pull the boat out of the water with a little water left in the ballast bags, if the water drips quickly out of the thru hull openings, its time to replace them. I replace mine every other season. They are the green nitrile impellers and WakeMakers usually has the best pricing. Of course be sure that a brand new impeller was installed this Spring along with new oil/filter, etc. Make sure the boat has gotten the most recent software update as you need a dealer for that! Also worth asking if the batteries have been replaced and when, I installed a NOCO maintainer and keep the boat plugged in 24/7 when not in the water and it keeps the batteries in top shape. That boat will put out a killer wave whether you list it, use a suck gate (I used a Nauticurl for a few seasons), or install a surf tab system (I installed an InfinityWave system in early 2019 and love it). It is a big boat and requires some weight to displace that hull properly. I agree you will want the bigger PnP bags. I also use 500lbs of lead tho 300 of that adds to my bow weight since I also have the 500lb bow sac under seats. The #1433 or #1847 prop are the best for that boat, at 800ft elevation where I am in NC, 5-6 adults and full ballast (4900lbs total on my boat), that engine/prop combo handles it easily and surfs at a max of 3500rpm with suckgate. Listing the boat or using the surf tabs brings the rpm's down to 3200rpm. It is a very efficient hull/engine combo....I average approx 5GPH and do nothing but surf. I plan to keep mine long-term and have done just about every mod/update possible, so feel free to hit me up if you have any questions or want any mod info. (you will love that Deckadence flooring!) Good luck, I hope your test drive goes well, take your time and after starting the engine, remove the back seat so you can hear the engine and listen carefully for any strange noises....have someone else shift the boat into forward and reverse while you are back there listening.

Yes. I took off the close out panel under the helm by the drivers foot and under the observer seat storage area. Gets you a full view of both sides of the cooler. I put foam around it. I think a sticky back type radiant barrier would work better.

C4 is wrap around seating, no sundeck walk through. Lightning is the model Storm is the level of options. Had storm 1, 2 and 3 I think.

I just had to replace my steering cable on my 05 SV230 and figured I’d add a few things that might be helpful. First, as I understand it, Teleflex no longer exists and was replaced by SeaStar so the new part number is SSCX15420. I ordered from Fredwarner.net and it cost $150 w/free shipping. I followed a lot of the guidance from above, but just to add a little more, I had to remove both water hoses from the back of the water pump to make accessing everything easier. Just unscrew the hose clamps and they pull off. I didn’t need to remove the water pump or sideswipe and was able to reach the cotter pin on the pitman arm fairly easy, and I’m on the husky side. The hardest part was getting the threaded nut on the steering cable unscrewed from the shaft housing that’s held in place by the clamp with the 4 bolts. I used an adjustable wrench but I THINK it’s about a 1 ¼” nut if you have a wrench that big. You could always take the new cable to a hardware store and find the right size wrench since the nuts are the same size. The shaft housing would turn with the nut when I would try to loosen the nut, but not as much as the nut, so it eventually came off but was a tedious process. I sprayed PB Blaster on the threads but I’m not sure if that even made a difference, perhaps some vice grips would help if you could fit them in there. Once I got that unscrewed, I pulled the cable/shaft out of the housing and then tied a rope to the end of the shaft where the retaining bolt would normally be. Before I could pull the cable out from the helm, I had to remove the paneling underneath the dash on the floorboard to access the hole where the cable comes out. The cable/nut got hung up on the gas tank, so I removed the floor panel to get access to the cable. This was well worth the few extra minutes, plus it made it easier to pull the new cable back through. I also agree that it’s much better to buy a new cotter pin; I tried the old one to no avail, but a new one went in on the first try. It’s definitely helpful to have a second person to lend a hand but is possible to do yourself. All together from start to finish, it took me about 3hrs which includes re-installing the under dash paneling and floor panel along with centering the steering wheel and rudder.

Ended up replacing starting battery and all good now.

If I was draining the fuel tank on my SV.... I would remove the floor panel and then either remove a fuel fill hose to get my siphon in there, or remove the fuel sender and use that opening (personally thinking this is easiest place where you can easily see inside the tank and if you tilt the bow up, be able to drain 99% of the old fuel). Getting a siphon hose into the tank without opening up something will be difficult since about 16" below the fuel fill cap inside the fill hose, you have an anti-splash fitting with a flap and at least on my SV, the fill hose turns in way that would make it troublesome to get it all the way into the tank. Another option would be to remove the fuel fill hose on the bottom side of the anti-splash valve and put your siphon hose in from there.... problem with that is you wont be able to properly position your siphon hose and/or see to make sure all fuel gets removed. I recently removed my fuel sender and it was a fairly easy process. Hopefully you stabilized the fuel before layup and by removing all the old fuel and putting in fresh, you can avoid the old fuel gunking up your fuel pumps and injectors. May be worth putting a cleaner in there as well? I have dealt with lots of ethenol fuel issues on carb engines (essentially turns to "sand" like material once it breaks down) but not specifically on an engine like this (I have a 2014 ZR409 in my SV244). Be sure you replace the spin on fuel/water separating filter.....as well as your FCC fuel filter. I agree that replacing the existing fuel is a smart thing to do before trying to start it....its a pain in the tush but much less so than firing it up with existing fuel and dealing with what will happen if it already went thru full phase separation As far as precautions.... . think I would also change the trans and v-drive oils at the same time as the engine oil/filter. Impeller change of course.... and carefully check your belt for signs of wear. I would also grease any zerks and spray lubricant on all moving points. After you start....I would keep engine bay open, check for any water leaks or any strange noises....and make sure the engine gets fully up to operating temp and then comes down before driving anywhere. Thermostats should be fine.... if you do have the partial closed cooled ZR409, there are 2 thermostats. 1 for the raw water and 1 for the DEXCOOL on the closed cooling side.

That sounds like a bad steering cable they feel free when you're not under power but when you have some load on it they're hard to turn

I had an 85 and 86 the 86 The boat changed in 86 to look like the pictures you post in 86 the deck changed and they added an hard frame windshield before that they had plexiglass windshield

Looks like bulletlines.com has what you’re looking for. Their krypt brand I think is considered more “budget” racks. I have them on Evolution tower and work for me.

thanks for the ideas fellas, i had seen the Salt Away product mentioned in other topics so will get that for sure... the dripless seal was something i hadn't thought of and is a great idea! I will be doing everything i can to mitigate salt issues, we moved and there is a salt lake 4 km away from us that will allow us to use our boat much more than in the past.

They make a solution called "salt away" (probably others available too) that you can run thru the system when you flush it, supposed to remove all the residual salt, prevent buildup and corrosion on the internal parts. http://www.saltawayproducts.com/EngineFlushPage.htm I would agree with jtryon that you want to do everything possible to keep water out of the engine compartment. Regardless tho, I would also coat the engine, mounts, etc with something good to prevent corrosion (fluid film?) and also flush the bilge after every use and then use a fan to dry it out once the boat is home. Every salt boat I have ever seen shows the most wear/damage in the engine compartment

That's great news! Glad you're up and running. Should be tons of fun this summer with that boat.

This should be my final update in this thread. Both problems have been solved. For the steering, I followed @Timr71's suggestions and contacted Ron to get a new steering cable. Because there was also a bit of vertical play in the tilt steering assembly, I ended up replacing that, too. The new setup is solid as a rock, and it steers on a dime. For the loss of throttle, I followed @InfinitySurf's suggestions and followed the fuel. The carb looks okay. The water separating fuel filter was good. The culprit was the fuel pump. After putting the new fuel pump on and replacing the fuel filter with a new one, we took the boat out for a test. We were slowly driving along for a good bit at a slow speed. We turned back towards the ramp (so we'd at least be facing the right direction) and gave it some throttle. The boat responded and didn't let up. It was great! I kept waiting for the engine to die out on me, but it never did... it ran beautifully! MANY thanks to both Timr71 and InfinitySurf for your help! (InfinitySurf, checking the impeller is still on my list).

Hi again, all. Thought I'd post a quick update. We took the boat out about a week ago for a test run. Prior to heading out, I poured in two bottles of HEET to help absorb any water or bad gas. At the lake, we had the same problems with acceleration. It idles fine, goes okay at low speed, but dies out when going for higher speeds. We ended up getting it started and were able to drive slowly back and load it on the trailer. A couple nights later, I took off the old water separating fuel filter and poured the contents into a glass jar to see if there was water choking out the fuel system. There was no sign of water, sediment, particles, or anything. So as far as I can tell, there's no water in the fuel. (Glad to know that the filter is working well, tho.) When I went to O'reilly Auto this morning to pick up another Sierra Water Separating Fuel Filter (they can order them and have them in about a day for about $2 more than Amazon), I talked to one of the guys there. His brother used to have a Ski Nautique and Moomba, so he knows the engines and layout a bit. He said that since there's no problem with the actual fuel (from what I could see), the problem has to be in fuel delivery - most likely the fuel pump. He said that if the fuel pump diaphragm is cracked, it could have enough pressure to delivery the fuel at lower speeds. It wouldn't sputter or anything, but appear to be fine at lower speeds. But upon acceleration, when the diaphragm is working harder to deliver fuel to the engine, it won't be able to keep up, and the engine would end up stalling out. He said on trucks with the Chevy 350 small block engine, if there's a problem with the fuel pump (cracked diaphragm or whatever), the excess fuel gets squirted out of the pump as you drive, and it ends up on the ground or somewhere else on the pump housing where it can evaporate. But you can't do that on a lake, so the gas ends up being sent to the crankcase and mixes with the oil. So he said to pull the dipstick, wipe it on a clean paper towel, dip again, wipe again, and then smell. If it smells of gas, then it's probably a bad fuel pump. So I came home, followed the steps and..... It smells a heck of a lot like there's gas mixed in with my oil! I had just changed the oil in our 4Runner (full synthetic, but should have a similar smell to regular used oil), and I smelled both of them separately. The oil from the boat DEFINITELY smells of gas. So the next step is going to be to put on a new fuel pump, new water separating fuel filter, change the oil... and then at some point, I'll get the steering cable (got it from Ron today) and the bilge pump done, too. Thanks for helping out, @Timr71 and @InfinitySurf. I'll keep everyone in the loop as I move forward. I feel like I'm finally on the right path!

Welcome to the crew. Sorry I don't have an answer for you but hopefully someone can chime in. Are you on Facebook? Try the Official Centurion/Supreme Boat Owners group. Someone might know on there.

Hey, I have a 2014 SV244 and mine does the same thing when sitting still. I believe that its designed to be at center under a certain mph since if you are surfing and throttle back to get rider..if CATS fine is all the way left. or right...it would make it tougher to steer. (I rarely use my CATS since I have a surf system and dont list the boat to surf). You will also hear the CATS cycle when you drop boat into neutral, so pretty sure its doing what its designed to do tho this is just an edjucated guess. Congrats on the new boat!

I am glad you are having a good time and hate to rain on the parade too hard but I would get a look at that impeller. They are not all that expensive and if it comes apart and shoots rubber chunks all inside your motor you are going to wish you had spent the hour or so and the $40 even if for just the piece of mine.

Traci3b, I have an 06 SV230 with the evolution tower and incorporated bimini. I have had good luck ordering parts from Shel at Centurion. Below is a youtube video link of the exact tower I have. The Bimini is installed on the tower, not the boat. I would suspect that each and every part can be ordered. Anyway It might give you an idea on what to look for. It was two years ago when I was searching Centurion for a couple of the parts incorporated in this top but honestly all I remember is I spoke to Shel at Centurion and she was able to look up part #s diagrams and had the parts shipped right away. Last season I talked to the Evolution Tower people to get a price on surf board racks as mine are made for wake boards. I did a search now and cannot find a link for them. Not sure if they went out of business or not. Here is the youtube link that shows how the top is incorporated into the Evolution Tower. I would send you pics but my boat is 1500 miles away right now. Good luck.

I 3rd everyone BUT if you want true clear sound go with a sealed box... JL performs best sealed.