Leaderboard

I just had a flawless week on Lake Powell with my 2014 SV233.

Just an update, have been out three days in the last week. No problems. Been a blast, dialing in the wake now.

Cheers Buddy, I will try and get in contact with Nicole. Your help is much appreciated !

I wanted to fill an additional sac to sit on seat. I used the bow sac factory fill and empty and made extension fill and empty hoses. I also made quick connect plugs so I can swap hoses even if the bag is full. Seems to work for me.

Everyone is over on Official Centurion/Supreme Owners Facebook group

This forum is dead. Are there any other centurion forums? Malibu, Nautique, Mastercraft, hell even MB have awesome forums that are helpful for owner tips and ideas. Nothing for centurion? Thanks

Last year was my first year of boat ownership. I went looking for the best wave for the dollar boat and wound up with a 2006 SV230 for my starter boat. Last year we ran either a mission delta or a Nauticurl with 1100lb bags in the back lockers and the stock 250lb tanks under the seats. I used tsunami pumps to fill the back bags and then would have to dump one into the other when switching from regular to goofy and back. Very time consuming. End result was a decent regular wave and a not so great goofy wave. We had fun, but I wound up on a mission to make the SV230 as close to a higher dollar boat as possible with minimal investment. I started with buying 500lbs of lead. I then purchased the WakeMakers reversible complete ballast system with two ballast king pumps, one for each rear bag that I all ready was using. I also removed the under seat hard tanks and replaced with what WakeMakers recommended, which I seem to recall were 400lb bags and used the stock sprinkler system with those bags. The system fills fast and is awesome. Total game changer. I wish I had timed it last week in Powell but did not. I now had all bags that could be filled and emptied with the flip of a switch, or four switches as the case may be. Next were the Infinity Wave tabs. Shaka suggested I install a double wing plate rather than the often discussed A-plate in conjunction with the tabs so he had one manufactured for me. This replaced my fixed plate. It fit perfectly. I had to have the swim deck raised which required some routering of the deck for the curve, which may be due to some warping of the deck. It was shimmed up about an inch and looks perfect. Tabs were installed and wired to the switches. System looks great and functions even better. Shaka was able to give me some good guidance on the weight distribution but at the end of the day it took a lot of trial and error. First trip out we wound up with a very good and surfable regular wave. After more experimentation we wound up with a great regular wave that was highly adjustable. Goofy wave was more elusive and I again consulted with Shaka for some advice. He said once you get it dialed in you may have a better goofy wave than regular. He was right. Earlier in the week we spend 4 days at Powell and I had ridiculously good waves on BOTH sides. We could surf forever. Here is the weight configuration that worked best: 200lbs lead to the outside of each rear locker (400lbs total). 1100lb bag filled 100% on surf side in rear locker. 1100lb bag at 70% on non-surf side in rear locker Under seat bag filled on surf side and empty on non-surf side. Surf tab deployed on non-surf side and up on surf side. Center double wing tab down slightly, adjust up for steeper and down for longer wave, adjust to taste. Speeds at 10.5 to 11 We had a crew of 4 to 6 with no one weighing over 155lbs. Wave was UNBELIEVABLE on both sides. After two days I could take a look at the wave and make minor adjustments with the tabs to get the wave exactly where I wanted it. Surfer would give me a shorter or steeper and click, I would adjust to exactly what they wanted. To switch sides I only had to drain 30% from one side while simultaneously filling the additional 30% on the other side. Took no time at all. The one weak point was the original pump for the under seat bags. I will be upgrading that this winter. I will try to post some pictures as I get them but they just will not do justice to how great the waves are on both sides and how easy the system is once you figure it out. InfinityWave tabs get two thumbs up and worth every penny spent. I wish I could say that I installed the system myself, but between ridiculously long work days and the lack of work space I had 970 Marine in Grand Junction do the work for me. I had never used them before but my review would not be complete without giving them the highest praise possible for the quality of work done, responsiveness, and attention to detail. If you are on the western slope in Colorado, these guys fantastic.

Recently Purchased a RI237. Looking for best surf setups. Boat has Ramfill and Plug play rears. Also have 500#'s of lead but have not used yet. regular footed riders. basic set up 10.9 - 11.2 mph, stinger plate 18 -22, tab 65 - 70 / 0 on opposite tab. typical crew 4 people. Just wondering what others are running> Much appreciated. stoked to be in the Centurian family. Old boat was an Axis A22. huge diff right out of the box.

Cool. Thanks for the info. Cant wait to get back on the lake. Yeah we have a couple Malibu's with crew I ride with but after they rode behind the Centurion. A lot of chatter on who is next to jump. Thanks again. Let you know how set up goes.

Thank you for the information. I can't wait to take a look at the underside/backside of the boat in the lift this weekend and start poking around to figure out how everything is run and where all of the various pumps are located. I am treating the situation as a blessing. In 2010 when the pumps were installed they were all 750 GPH. I am taking this opportunity to upgrade each "empty" pump for my rear locker V-Drive bags on each side of the engine from Johnson 750 GPH to Attwood Tsunami 1200 GPH pumps. I may revisit the "fill" pumps in the off season and upgrade those so they fill quicker as well.

I have a 2015 SV233. We bought it in the fall of 2017. This is our first surf boat, so newbies. We are still figuring things out and could use a little help. We have almost everything on it. Quick surf, all ballast, and CATS. It does not have ramfill. I just ordered 500 lbs of lead. Most of the time it is just me, my daughter, and my son going out and he surfs most of the time. We all surf regular. We very seldom have a goofy rider (but would like a good set up for goofy). He is small, about 125 lbs, and pretty good. He can handle any wave but loves lots of push (wave snob). My daughter is small also so they can surf behind just about anything. I am having trouble when I surf when it is just he and I. I can't seem to get the push and it is like I have to stay right behind the boat or I go out the back of the wave. This weekend we were out there with more people and I was able to do better when I got a couple of larger people in the back. Some settings for each of us would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! Jonathan Scarborough

My dash is different. Try your CATS at 50. Tab at 0. At least 11mph

For 2015/2016 years, listing the boat makes a better wave than using the QuickSurf plates. 2015 was the 1st year for Quicksurf on Centurion boats and unfortunately, the factory plate design was not great at that time. The QS tabs are too small and do not have fins under the tab to direct the water coming off bottom of the boat toward the surf wave, decreasing potential push. The SV boats will put out spectacular wave tho if set up right. You said you have all available ballast bags, correct? If so, assuming you have the horseshoe bag under front seats, 2 large bags in each rear transom and 2) bags mid-ship/cabin, 1 under each seat on sides of the boat (these are called the "pro bags")....is this all correct? Then once you get the 500lbs of lead, depending on which below option you go with will determine where you will want the lead placed. More weight at the front of the boat will make the wave longer, more weight at back of boat will make the wave taller, but also shorter. This gives you maximum push but gives you less real estate to fall back on the wave. I personally use 300lbs of lead under bow filler cushion and the other 200lbs in the cabin next to or just behind the driver as this makes my wave nice and long, yet still plenty tall. I typically run my center trim tab at 30% with how I have my boat setup. The 3 options to get a better wave IMO (without using the factory QuickSurf tabs) are: 1). List the boat over to the surf side like Dreamer mentioned above and do NOT deploy the factory QuickSurf plates..... Do this by filling all ballast EXCEPT the back transom PnP bag on the non-surf side, (I am guessing your transom bags are roughly 1,100lbs each since you do not have Ramfill....do they fill the entire locker when full?), you will still fill the Quickfill tanks on both sides 100%, (these hold 500lbs on each side). Listing the boat will net a great wave with better push like you are looking for. (when listing the boat, using CATS does make a difference as it helps to crab the boat and give you maximum wave curl/push). 2). Buy a suck gate like the Nauticurl. ( https://nauticurl.com/ ) I used a Nauticurl on my boat for 2 summers with great results....with this option you fill ALL ballast 100% except only filling the 500lb QuickFill tank on the non-surf side to half just to get a slight list to the surf side since in my experience, it enhances the wave a little having a slight list when using the Nauticurl. 3). Buy InfinityWave surf tab plates so you can replace the factory QS tabs.....(this is the option I would personally choose since you currently have the factory system and these new surf tabs will net you the best overall wave that is the easiest to set up/use in my experience).......with this option you have everything needed already from the factory (wiring, actuators, etc) so you would just remove the factory QS plates, patch the holes in the transom and then install the new InfinityWave SV surf tabs (the SV tabs have a notch in them for the swim platform bump out). Re-use/re-attach the actuators you already have installed from the factory which will allow you to then use your computer to operate the surf tabs as if they are factory. On my boat, I only need between 8-10 degree's of tab deployment for the best wave. The main difference between the 2 surf plate designs is that the InfinityWave plates are larger and also have fins on the bottom of the surf tabs which directs the water coming off the bottom of the boat hull at the surf wave....this creates the extra push you want and makes a big difference in the wave your boat will produce. I installed the InfinityWave surf tabs on my 2014 SV244 this Spring and have an awesome wave. A full InfinityWave surf tab kit including actuators, wiring and tabs for an SV is currently $2300....since you only need the surf tabs and not actuators or any of the wiring in the full kit, I am sure that @Shaka would make you a great deal to buy ONLY the 2) surf tabs and the hardware you would need to install them. https://www.infinitywave.net/ With just you and your son, the 500lbs of lead you ordered will also help you with better wave no matter which direction you go since there is no replacement for displacement. I attached a few pictures of the InfinityWave surf tabs on my boat so you can compare them to the factory tabs you currently have. I replied to you PM, feel free to contact me anytime. If you are near NC, you are welcome to come surf with me anytime!

Fill the QF on both sides.You need to fill the starboard side one before you start filling the fat sacs on the port side to keep the intake low in the water. Also fill the port pro and port pnp. We have 200#’s of lead jammed in the back port corner behind the pnp sac. Wake plate at 0 and CATS at 100 going 11.2 mph should be a good starting place. Ours is a 2014 SV244 but should be pretty much the same as yours.

Thanks for the help guys, I ended up purchasing the 2010 240 and couldn't be more happy. Already had it out for the Fourth of July and love everything about it.

@Troy, the top portion of my tower got severely bent from being crunched in the boat lift. The bottom half that actually connects to the boat has not been impacted.

There’s salvage yards for boats that usually have stuff like that but shipping will prolly kill you either way you go due to the size and weight.

This site could use a category for keeping these older boats maintained. I just posted a similar post regarding my 2002 Elite V and a drip. Here is what i’ve found - If you have the stock bilge pump (mounted on a block of wood in the rear of the bilge area most likely under the alternator) you’ll see even if it does a perfect job it would leave 2-3” of water in the bilge. The rear brass plug gets you down another inch - but you will have still have some standing water inside. My thought is it depends on how your boat sits on the trailer at what angle. You have several hull pass-thru points - could have a thru-hull transducer, strake mounts, rudder pinion seal, or prop shaft seal leaking. By the way, I went with one of the new Whale style bilges mounted lower than stock and really like the amount of water it removes - and to a lower level. That was one of the first things I replaced, along with upgrading all of the bilge and ballast hoses. Not a bad job. Hope this helped give you some ideas.

Well, a few too many hours on saturday pulling it apart, repainted and installed new riser gaskets/manifold gaskets and she runs perfect!

Finally got a chance to get the final after pics of the Gatorbak bunks on my trailer yesterday when we went out surfing. Really happy with these

I have seen multiple threads where people upgraded their ballast system to bigger bags with reversible pumps like the ballast puppy. It may require drilling some holes under boat for the new ballast pumps as well as holes for the vent lines, depending on the setup you currently have but would make things much easier/faster for you. Money well spent if it gives more time surfing @Wylie_Tunes can also set you up with a full ballast system and is very knowledgeable about these boats and what you would need.

Yep I went to the same event and now have a shiny new Fi25 sitting in my shop. Love this boat

Fuel/water - yes inline - I didn't have to swap barbs, but maybe you have to? All in all, yes that easy.

I'd go over to wakegarage, it's a site for the do it your selfer type guy. There are a lot of guys who have made slapper kits, and a few who have done the trim tab route. There are also a bunch of home grown wake plates, one guy has one with the exhaust in it. Even if you don't see exactly what you are thinking it's a good place to spitball your ideas and get feedback. It isn't brand specific and there is no My boat is bigger than your boat stuff. Mostly guys with slightly older boats doing home brew projects to try to get something comparable to the newer boats. also good info on boat maintenance etc. for the do it your self guy. I don't own the site, I don't get a commission, the site is free and I am not trying to down talk this site, I love it here, but for the projects I think that's the place.

No photos attached, since its your 1st post, likely cause they were too large. Become a supporting member for $30, it will pay off in spades from the good info you can get from forum members. Its not a problem with boat, you just have to dial it in and figure out what works....which can change on smaller boat if you have 2 people compared to 8 people. You may try changing your speed some to see what happens, know others have mentioned that you need to be 22+ for clean wakeboard wave on Supreme. Play with ballast also rather than having everything 100% full. Play with tabs, etc. When you dig hard on a smaller boat, you are going to move the boat some, pulling from tower you are going to pull one side down some which would slightly change the wake till your weight changes.

I use an extractor. My ex3 engine has a 'oil drain hose' that is connected to the bottom of the oil pan and runs up. Its pretty wide diameter so nothing will get stuck. I'm pretty sure the new 409's have this hose, its capped with a yellow plug and usually zip tied close to one of the headers- mine is on starboard header between header and the plastic top cover. Mityvac 7201 is my favorite extractor. http://amzn.to/2tVXP7m And I use this oil filter extractor to make things a bit easier http://amzn.to/2sPOSwV

If you're just talking about the engine oil, it's basically the same as a car except easier because the remote oil filter is a lot easier to get to. Personally with warm engine I just pull the drain plug on the stern and run the oil drain tube out the drain hole then over the side of the wake plate and into a bucket. 15w-40 is recommended and I won't get into the brand name oil wars, but FWIW I use Rotella.

I understand with the right prop you can really increase your top end!