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Brought the Fi home today. We did purchase it from Pat and his crew at Northwest Boat Sports in Oregon City. Very attentive hard working team. They are all ready to step up to help their customers. Ian took us for a demo to show how to set it up for wakesurfing awesomeness. Brian was great helping with the details. It has been a pleasure to do business with them. Looks like we might have light wind tomorrow so hopefully will get on the water. Picked up a new Soulcraft with the boat so ready to step up our game. All the best, Hein & Kim

We are bringing our Fi25 home on Tuesday. I'll be happy to answer questions as we get to know it. All the best, Hein

We brought home our 2019 Fi25 last week and had our first session the day after. I consider myself lucky to score a session on a new toy the day after I get it. It doesn't always work out that way. One result of that quickness to rally kept me from having the opportunity to mount the rear view mirror which came with the boat. That proved to be a challenge as we tried adjust the surf settings without really being able to see the wave change. I am not a fan of mirrors clamped on the windshield anyway and wanted to try a rear view camera instead. That is the upgrade that this first post is about. We purchased a rear view camera and display on Amazon a few days before picking up the boat from NWBS in Oregon City. https://amzn.to/2DEgZTg I spent some time figuring out how and where to mount the display above the OEM dash in good view of the driver without blocking the view in front of the boat. Scratched my head a bit, took some patterns, did some CAD work and machined some parts shown below next to the display for the camera. Figured out where to place the camera on the back of the boat. Wire was run along the right side under the seats. Then continued to fit the CNC'd mounts to the dash. Happy these were a perfect fit right off the bat. This step usually requires some iteration of CAD tweaks and CNCing of more parts until the fit is right. A bit of skill and luck this time around. Used some 3M VHB to attach the mounts to the back of the display. This camera is designed with some straps that normally wrap around a rear view mirror. I trimmed those off and removed the pads that rest against the mirror surface. That is were my brackets attach to the back with the VHB. Then I mounted the camera on the dash. I will add some VHB between the mounts and dash to hold it in place. This was just a test fit to verify the position. Here is the view from the driver seat. Back of barn and CNC machine are shown in the image. We will have to see if this is angled right when on the water but think it looks pretty good. Note that the display is actually upside down. The camera is designed to be mounted above a license plate on the underside of the cover that normally is above them. Having the display upside down actually improved the wire routing which I still need to clean up a bit. So this all worked out for the better. This camera also has a built in front view cam which can 'see' through' the windshield but we won't be using that feature. It can record and do a host of other things which may be fun to try. We can actually record our sessions on a thumb drive so that might be cool. It's 1080P so resolution will be pretty good. Will post some videos when we get a chance to test it out. All the best, Hein

One more photo of the rear view camera in use. I'm not sure the image wouldn't be better without the glare film but it's a keeper none-the-less. Driver is totally able to monitor the rider while still looking ahead. You can also see that we don't use cruise control due to the constantly varying magnitude and direction of the current in the Columbia river. GPS based speed control will absolutely not work for us. We ride by the using the tachometer. A smidge over 3600 rpm seems perfect for us. GPS speedometer can be as much as 3mph off depending on whether we are going upstream/downstream or at some angle across the flow. We were seeing 2-3 mph while floating at idle. If anyone else wants to try one then I would be honored to machine some of the brackets I used to install it. They are mounted with 3M VHB tape so should be removable with no damage the dash itself. Below are a couple photos of the bilge alarm install. The float switch is on the ground side of the alarm so just needed one wire going back. The alarm is secured under the dash with VHB and power wire goes forward from there to the positive post where the breakers are. I made an inline fuse holder with two flag style crimp terminals and stuck a 3A ATC fuse in. I ran the switch wire to the rear from the dash via the space behind the panel next to the driver (where throttle is located) until it emerged under the seats in back. Then just ran it along the back of the under seat storage towards the rear and then down into the bilge near the V-drive. Other lead from switch is grounded to the engine. I used the same wire routing for the rear view camera cable. Below. Fuse holder behind dash. Next couple photos. Buzzer is up under here: I like to keep the bilge ventilated with a box fan when the boat is in storage so moisture can dry out. I open up a seat back in front and also the fuel tank sender hatch. Flow-thru air comes out in those locations. The 18x18 furnace filter on top of the fan keeps dust from being blown in. Fan runs 24/7. All the best, Hein

I’ve been out on my 2019 Fi21 twice now. Once surfing and once wakeboarding. Water here is still 50F so we didn’t stay out too long! Surfing we just did everything full (pnp and ramfill), surf tab 70, stinger 40 and 11.8 mph. No lead yet. With 4 in the boat and 1 surfer, this wave was amazing! Not sure I need to carry the lead around all the time. Wakeboarding we went twice, once no weight, once with just ramfill full. This is the nicest, easy to balance side to side wakeboard wake that I have had (and I’ve had a 2017 G23 and a 2018 Xstar). I realy couldn’t believe how not finicky it was to balance side to side. Also very adjustable with the stinger plate from peaky to rampy. Super impressed. Our boat came with the 16x15 prop stock. We are not at elevation (about 1000’), and it performs great. Did not struggle surfing and cruising 25-28mph is a breeze, still below 4000rpm. I cannot be happier with this boat!

Nice boat Hein! We just joined the Centurion and FI 25 family ourselves!

Finally got the time to sit down and do a more detailed write up. Myself and a friend installed the SV version of these InfinityWave surf tabs on my 2014 Centurion SV244, we installed the tabs one evening and then I ran and finished the wiring a couple nights later on 04/13. Since the weather was crappy that weekend, my first LAKE TEST was on the evening of 04/17/2019. I can honestly say that my expectations were exceeded and after only 2-3mins, I had found the right deployment angle to make an excellent surf wave on the regular side. We only had a couple hours and myself and 2 buddies spent it surfing. I totally forgot to see what goofy wave looked like or get any pics or video without a surfer on the wave. I will do that next time out and post up more information. Initial reaction when getting the InfinityWave tab system….they look and feel very well made, its a beefy system and the finish is very nice. I love the fins on the bottom of the tabs since one thing that concerned me putting tabs on an SV244, is I knew that the factory Quicksurf tabs that were installed on the 2015/2016 models where not up to par and most owners I talked to or heard about preferred to still list the boat for the surf wave since they did not feel like the wave using the tabs had enough push/power. I believe with a deep V boat, the hull wants to direct the water outwards, not back toward the surf wave, so without the fins on the bottom of the tab which help direct the water coming off the bottom of the hull toward the surf wave, you don’t get surf wave that feels like it has power. I have Ramfill on my boat and since its important for the tabs to be up as far as possible under swim platform when retracted, the best position I found puts the actuator bracket mount behind the Ramfill tanks….so rather than run the actuator wire thru the hole in the bracket, I drilled/chamfered a hole for the wire approx. 3.5” toward the center of the boat & 3.5” higher than the bracket position so I could avoid the Ramfill tanks and get access to the wire. Actuator wire is 5/16” diameter, so I drilled a 3/8” hole (starting with smaller bit and running in reverse till well thru gelcoat), after the 3/8” hole was drilled I then got another drill bit slightly larger and ran it in reverse to chamfer the hole so I could avoid spider cracking and remove sharp edges due to wire running thru that (most people will not run into this and can run the wire thru the extra hole in the actuator bracket). Then I ran the wires thru hull and sealed the holes on both inside/outside of the hull. I then ran and zip tied all the electrical up to the bottom of the top deck along the outer perimeter and ran everything up to the drivers helm carefully concealing the wires and securing them with zip ties. For now, I am just fabricating a temp bracket to mount the switches below the steering wheel for easy access. My Ballast setup on this boat: Ramfill = 1,250 each side for total of 2500lbs. PnP bags in each rear locker at 700lbs each for total of 1400lbs. PnP bag under bow seats is 500lbs. Then I also have 500lbs of lead bags, I place 300lbs under the bow filler cushion and the other 200 lbs to the left of drivers feet on the floor against the built-in cooler. I fill the Ramfill tanks to 100% on both sides and then I DRAIN off the non-surf side Ramfill to 80% to give a slight list to boat. So basically 1250 Ramfill on surf side and 1000 Ramfill on non-surf side which gives a total of 4,650lbs of ballast. In video’s I posted links too above were taken on 04/17, total of 3 guys on boat including the surfer. Speed is 11mph and center trim tab is at 40%. PCM ZR409 engine at 800ft elevation and my rpm was at 3,150. Previously I ran the same ballast set up but used Nauticurl suck gate and with all things the same, my rpm was at 3,400, so using these InfinityWave surf tabs brought the rpm’s down for sure. Love that since its easier on the engine and I will save a little gas money to boot. Extremely happy with my purchase and wanted to post my experience since I know others are looking at these tabs and probably have similar initial hesitation like I did since these tabs are fairly new to market. Combine the performance of these tabs which I can now experience behind my boat with the great price and customer service and you have a winner!

It's great that you are happy with your tabs. I worked hard on the design with a lot of prototypes.

It would depend on the propeller but on average probably around 40mph

I know the prop does work and there is no damage to the hull. He used used it for the past few summers. It does get pretty close to hitting the trailer though. I will try contacting Acme, just from what i have seen so far, no one is running this particular prop for my boat.

We got the wave looking really solid today. More crew (5) so 3 sitting on the surf side, bow bag at 40%, starboard pnp at 60% every thing else full. Then 0,50,85 for tabs and stinger, cats at 5. Videos coming shortly. We captured ourselves on one of the Gorge web cams. Great day! All the best, Hein

Calling all Fi23 owners! With it being such a new boat, how about we get a discussion going to share all mods, tips & tricks related to the Fi23. Here’s some of our fun mods so far to get things started. Cheers!

Looks like a decent wave, just looks like the lip is not as clean as it could be. I assume you tried the CATS at center setting too? My understanding is that on the new boats, its not really needed. I have seen wave lip "dirty" like that when boat is listed slightly to wrong side (not surf side), or not enough weight...but you said non surf side was at 60% full. I have not been on FI enough to know actual settings so I may not be very helpful here, but I can say for sure that the FI23 and FI21 I have ridden behind (90% sure on both of those they were weighted evenly, maybe slight bias to surf side) but both had sizable and excellent wave shape and the lip was clean with a nicely shapped "barrel" at the end giving you push far back. I know on my SV244 with the InfinityWave surf tabs I recently installed, having everything full and then draining off Ramfill on non-surf side to 80% defines the surf wave lip slightly compared to level tho even level its great....lip only gets dirty when I drain off surf side which I did by mistake the 2nd time out with those tabs and it confused me for a few mins till I figured out I had drained off the wrong Ramfill side (course my hull is different than yours, just a comment). The FI does not like bow weight like mine does but that is probably something you already know. Have you posted all the details with bags you ordered with boat? @H20 KING could steer you in the correct direction on what to fill and settings to use. Don't remember tab settings, but think I remember him posting something like all ballast full except only like 30% in bow. BTW, great mod on the camera, your CNC work is impressive! Must be very cool to have that ability at your fingertips. I have been planning to add a camera at back of my boat and wire it to my screen (I have 2 video inputs also and with long enough RCA video cable, should be an easy mod to accomplish) and would give me a 2nd way to watch surfer when driving. My screen is located down and to right of steering wheel, so its not something you see as easy as having it on the dash like you did and I have not made it a priority yet since I have a couple other mods I need to finish first (replacing my bunks/carpet and installing Gatorbak bunk covers is my last bigger project for this year), then just finish up my polish and wax on boat....most everything else I wanted to get done I have already finished. Wish I could find someone local who had the equip for me to suspend the boat off trailer so I could wetsand, compound and polish my hull since my bunk carpet has scratched the hell out of my black hull even tho I never powerload (one main reason I am switching to the composite Gatorbak bunk covers), but dealer cant let me use his due to liability insurance. Hopefully I can figure out a way to get it done this Fall. Beautiful boat!

Let me know how it works out. For sure you can plug into the back of the screen though. The screen has two camera inputs on the back side. It is a split screen so the camera would show up on one side when on and all the adjustments on the other side. Down side is you can't use navigation when the camera is on .

Hello MC Captain I recently faced the same dilemma. I ended up buying a Hewitt 10,000 pound lift. I have a 2017 ri57 and loaded on the trailer with about 800 pounds of lead it’s about 9700 pounds so I assume The boat is close to 8000 which leaves no room for any extra weight on the lift. To be safe I would always want to size a Lift to be hold about 20% more than the weight it’s Carrying. I also assume that there might be one or two people in it when lifting the boat also which replace extra weight I’ve never owned one before so I’m not sure if this is the case but it makes sense to me that would be easier to line up that way.

That is a broad blanket statement, why do you think this? This is what was posted on the Centurion/Supreme FB page about it.... Passive Hydrolock is when water is siphoned through the boat’s exhaust system, enters a cylinder in the engine and results in a non-start. This is possible on any marine vessel powered by a combustible engine with exhaust risers that sit below the water line. Once the boat is run and the engine heated, if it is allowed to sit for over 5-10 minutes of “cool” time without emptying the ballast or while the exhaust risers remain below the water line the potential for Passive Hydrolock exists. When the exhaust risers are allowed to sit below the waterline during the engine cooling process it is possible water can siphon through the exhaust system into an open cylinder causing a non-start. The solution is very simple! Make it a rule that if you are shutting down for over 5-10 minutes to swim and play, empty your rear ballast first. Centurion makes it extremely easy if you own a boat equipped with RAMFILL! Take 90 seconds and drain off the RAMFILL tanks if you are going to sit for over 5-10 minutes. If you are merely swapping out riders it is not necessary to drain your tanks. If your boat is not equipped with RAMFILL and equipped with pumps, simply drain off the rear bags or tanks before shutting down. Don’t let this ruin your day /weekend /vacation ! 👊🏾 Be smart and be educated .

Nice work! Many thanks. BTW they really make your dining room pop! Bet the wife loves them there

Don't know exactly what factory used, but it was sticky for sure and only way I was able to remove the vents was to remove the 3 screws and then gently pry up one end of the vent with plastic scraper, and then use a thin metal scraper to break/cut the tape bond....went around entire perimeter doing that carefully to get them loose without breaking anything or scratching the gelcoat. Needs to be sticky since the 3 small screws dont secure the middle parts. After I installed the 3M tape on the vents, I used a hair dryer to heat it up some and make sure it got a good bond to the vent. When I put them back on the boat, I will do the same thing.

Sorry to hear about your issues. I will be out Friday (also run my ri217 at high elevation) and will let you know what her RPM is when weighted and surfing.

I can't wit for your review of the Camera. I thought about doing that on my boat. I have a camera I installed on my Motorhome and have cameras factory installed on my truck and wife's car. I have glare issues...not sure if it is just my eyes getting old or what. Screens mess with me a bit so I am curious how you will like the mirror/camera in the sunlight. Your installs are top notch.

Hein, you are a beast! Well done, sir! Can't wait to see what's in store next...

Big thanks to NW Boat Sports. I ordered the adapters from them and they threw in the powder coating. Love those guys. They always go the extra mile for us and they put up with my boat OCD LOL NWBS is the bomb. I’m about 200 miles away and has always treated me great. Sure makes a difference!!

Next project on deck. Actually below in this case... Bilge alarm system featuring a float switch mounted to a self-made ABS plate with threaded inserts that will be bonded to the inside of the hull with 3M 5200 adhesive. If the water level comes up to actuate the switch then a 90 decibel alarm will sound. Also shown is a small fuse for the system. I have a friend who almost sank his boat when a hose came loose and they didn't notice it until the engine was almost underwater. This might help to avoid such a scenario. All the best, Hein

If your surf tab is only at 40%, that is too low as well. It would need to be in the 70-80% range. Less stinger would add to the steepness of the wave as well.

I finished the vents last night. They cured pretty well after 24hrs but just as an FYI, if you hold it tightly, it would still leave a fingerprint mark on the clear coat. First I used 1500 grit and wet sanded them to perfectly smooth the finish and remove any orange peel effect on the clear coat. I then polished them.....I tried to use my Makita rotary to polish, but it was too hard to hold them in place and polish, so I ended up doing it by hand. Took a while, but it was worth it since it put a beautiful mirror finish on them. Last, I used my Menzerna polymer sealant for the wax. Then I installed new 3M double sided backing on the vents and then used a hair dryer to heat them up a bit and make sure they have a good bond to the back of the CF vents. Oh yea, the screen had pulled a way in couple areas, so I used a hot glue gun and fixed those areas and then re-inforced the perimeter of the screen so it will be stronger than before (in below pics, I had not yet glued the screens back) Turned out very nice. Last thing I wanna do before re-install, is polish the gelcoat behind the vents. Then I will be sure to clean surface well so the 3M has a good bond and then re-install. 4 pics. 1 shows the products I used. Other 3 are final after pics of the vents.

Hein I don't think you're weighting the Fi25 correctly, IMHO the boat does NOT need more weight than factory to surf, and surf well. I think you need more roll, maybe draining off some of the opposite side of the rider. Maybe post on the Facebook group for best settings, but based on that video the boat is definitely not set up correctly.

If any of you want these for your SV boat I'm starting a new manufacturing run today. Contact me if you're interested: shakarocks@hotmail.com

Yeah mine is starting to do the same thing. I’ll ask while I’m at the dealer today.

We upgrade to Michelin LTX tires (stiffer sidewall) for the truck and will get some Airlift bags to level out the rear while towing. They are due to release a kit for our 2017 Titan in May. Truck actually did very well towing. We have a weigh safe hitch and it showed 700lbs tongue weight. We had NWBS put 400 lbs of lead in the back of the boat to compensate for smaller crew and to reduce tongue weight a little bit. We are planning on a rear view camera instead of mirror for the boat. Hoping to work out that install this weekend. Will start a new thread on upgrades. Can't leave anything stock. It's half the fun. All the best, Hein

Looks awesome. I crawled through that boat before ordering our fi25 congrats and welcome to the NWBS family.

@Hein, She looks fabulous. I've always enjoyed your mods on that old boat but this one right here.... Might not need anything except 1-driver and 1 rider. Maybe you can mod the truck in the meantime. Congrats.

Awesome write up. Looks great. Only thing i would suggest is to round the corner of the black diamond plate. The square corner could hurt. But when I reread your write up you already know that. Great job!

Great hack fort he switch which helps keep the boat stock. I put mine on the armrest by the throttle. I could weight evenly in my SV230 for most riders. However, my favorite was to have slightly less weight on the non-surf side. I could still do transfers that way although the wave wasn't as optimal on the side with less weight.

If you do the stereo options you get a Roswell 12" sub. If all you get are in-boats there is no sub. If you put a sub in you will have to have a hole cut for it. Sometimes they glass in a sealed enclosure to the back of the kick panel and sometimes they do not. There's no way to ensure that they do. I just got the in-boat speakers and mine has the glassed in sub enclosure. I still have to cut the kick panel hole for the sub.

I'm digging it. My thought on my 2014 SV (no Ramfill) is to fill all 4 bags and only fill the surf side Quickfill. I"m not looking for quick transfers but a reasonable time to switch from regular to goofy. Thoughts on this? Excellent write up @InfinitySurf. @Nick213, doing this above... I would loose all storage except for the bow and observer's seat.

23 over 21 but not by much. Resale will be better on the 23 though because not many people are looking for a 21. 23 seems to be the magic number

I figured out how to post videos to youtube so people without FB can see them. Links below, hopefully they will imbed

These pics show the finished install from drivers view. Its just below the touch screen and even tho its set back a couple inches, its still easy to reach and adjust the tabs. (Initially I did not want any exposed bolts like the one you see just to the left of the switches, but realized it was needed to hold it in place due to the way I fabricated this and didn't have time to either buy a black colored bolt to match or paint this one....which probably would peel anyway, so I am gonna call it good and leave as-is for now). After I was done, I realized that I should probably slightly round off the bottom left corner of the diamond plate bracket so I don't accidentally bang my leg against that 90 degree corner and cut myself. Overall tho, its out of the way from where legs would normally be and should not interfere at all. When I ran all my wiring from the transom to the helm, I left some extra wire so if I even want to move the placement, I can do that. (I used 14/2 AWG wire for the runs from actuator wires at transom up to the hull and was able to neatly hide and zip tie up all the wires securely. Pretty happy with how it all turned out.

I was able to fabricate and install a bracket this weekend to hold my control switches for the InfinityWave surf tab system. I wanted to do it in a way that was not permanent, yet looked good and was functional. After laying on my back for an hour staring at the space behind my drivers helm, I finally settled on an idea. I bought a 12"x24" piece of black diamond plate from Lowes thinking it would look good and also be easy to fabricate something since its a softer metal. Once I figured out how I was going to do my install, I cut out a 4" wide X 12" long piece and then traced out the area I wanted to install the switches, then used a dremel cutting bit to cut out the square. Then I fiddled with the placement and bent it into an "L". After some thought, I realized to make the bracket stable enough to push/hold down the switches, I would need a 2nd point to hold the diamond plate bracket in place and found a piece of L channel laying in the garage, cut it too length I needed and then notched the metal so I could bend it like I needed. Both places behind the drivers helm that I secured too are part of the fiberglass and hidden so if I ever change the switches or decide to move them, I can remove the panel and not leave ugly holes/damage. 1st 2 pics are the front and back of the diamond plate bracket I "designed". 3rd pic is what it looked like behind the drivers helm before I did anything. 4th pic is my holding the bracket into place to test fit before I drilled any holes. Pics 5 & 6, show how I mounted the switch panel. I first drilled a hole in the fiberglass in the area to right side of driver (to hold the side with 90 degree bend in it first) and using the center hole I had drilled in the diamond plate, then thru-bolted using a lock nut and stainless hardware so it would secure well and have no rattles. I had drilled 3 holes in my bracket for that side initially, but after drilling/installing the center bolt, it was plenty secure enough to not have to drill any more. Then I drilled one hole in the fiberglass near steering wheel to hold the additional L bracket that I added/modified to keep the switch panel bracket securely in place without any movement when I am pushing buttons or boat is moving around on the lake. I used a 3/4" stainless screw for that spot since I could not access behind it to install a bolt and hold it while lock nut was tightened down.

Our 2008 Enzo has been sold. All the best, Hein

Everything looks great and glad your happy with it @InfinitySurf!!! i gotta say your post has me tempted but since I’d have to fill all my ballast and not have any other storage, I’ll stick with listing my boat.... for now.

Took delivery of our ZS232 a couple weeks ago.

This tower?

Post up pictures of your finished boat garage!I built my 24ft boat a new detached garage when I built my new home recently. I fully insulated and installed a wall unit so I could heat/cool the space. Its done a great job, only thing I did not realize when I bought it was that the lowest heat setting is 61 degrees and there are times when it would be nice to set it too 50 degrees. But its been very efficient since I was careful to insulate well and use a LOT of spray foam and I cannot complain. Moved in Sept 2018....and FINALLY just got the garage set up like I had been planning, just need to properly organize all my tools and boat stuff now. When I designed the garage, I wanted to be able to maximize the space since the boat is roughly 27ft long on the trailer with the tongue folded and swim platform on (I use it to get into boat) and about 9.5ft wide from fender to fender on width. The garage is 32ft long X 16ft wide with 12x12 garage door (ceiling of garage is 13' tall). Since it has 2x6 walls, inside comes to basically 31ft long X 15ft wide.I wanted to be able to bring the boat home from a day on the lake, and from inside the boat, remove everything if I wanted to without having to climb in/out of the boat. Same for loading up, so I can choose what surf boards, kids toys, etc.....that we want on the lake that day without getting out. I usually remove the seats to make sure the boat dries out and I never get any mildew or wet smell....so I built 3 wood racks on the side for the seat, and 2) 4x8 metal racks that hang down from the ceiling 42". This allows me to reach all the main things for the boat by either standing on the gunnels (I installed decking on gunnels for grip), or standing on the rear walk-thru transom. Then I also added as many metal shelving units at rear that I could (have 3 installed so far) those are for tools, boat supplies, oil change equip and all the other fun stuff....and am putting a "Gladiator" wall system up to hang things like rakes, shovels and other misc. On left wall, I still have 8 of those to install which will finish filling up that wall.I got this all done while boat was at the shop over the last 2 weeks...brought her home last night and backed her in for the first time and am pretty happy with how things turned out, everything fits perfectly, tho just barely in some areas. I planned to epoxy the garage floor in the Spring and think that I will put down something (maybe a colored line in the paint), so when I back in, I know to keep my tire on the line since I only have roughly 6" on each side of wiggle room to keep boat where I want it so I still have access to walk down either side of the boat since there will still be some things on the floor. I need to install some kind of "tire stop" as well so I can keep the depth correct.

So the other night we got home late from the lake after being out pretty much all day, the sun was already down and I was beat. I pull up to the house, disconnected the boat from my truck and go to pull away, I hear a clunk and feel a small jerk. I immediately stop. I walk to the back to see this still hanging from my hitch......... Yup, I forgot to disconnect the boat trailer emergency brake cable! Now the way my mind works is a two part process, first, it was a string of curse words that if heard out load would make a sailor blush. Second, I questioned how much money my self inflicting wound just cost me. Luckily through the power of the internet it actually was a very cheap learning experience. You can buy just the cable for around $13 but the catch is its almost $10 for shipping so I just hit up my local boat shop and bought a kit for under $30 which comes with a new cable, clip, and attachment plate. Now, I can only assume most of us are running some type of UFP hitch on our trailers. If you're not sure, they will be labeled just like this. UFP is the make and my particular hitch is model A-84. Google that and all your replacement parts will come up. As you can see this particular cable kit I bought covers multiple models The hitch is actually a pretty simple system. Trailer braking is controlled by the actuator mounted on the tongue of the trailer. When the tow vehicle brakes are applied, the “surge” or “push” of the trailer toward the tow vehicle automatically applies and synchronizes the trailer brakes with the tow vehicle brakes. The coupler slides into the actuator applying force to a piston inside of a master cylinder, which applies the trailer brake.At constant speed, the brake actuator master cylinder piston is in the free (extended) position; and the trailer brakes are not applied. The shock absorber controls random application of the trailer brakes when towing on rough roads. When the tow vehicle slows down, the trailer moves toward the tow vehicle. The actuator slides over the coupler, applying force to the master cylinder piston in direct proportion to how fast the tow vehicle is slowing and how much the trailer weighs. The piston moves into the master cylinder, building pressure to apply the trailer brakes. The shock absorber makes sure the brakes are applied and released smoothly. All actuators must have a way to apply the trailer brakes should the trailer become completely detached from the towing vehicle. The breakaway cable is the third line of defense after trailer separation. Before the breakaway cable is pulled, the coupler must become detached from the hitch ball and then the safety chains must fail. At this time the breakaway cable is pulled which will apply a braking force to the trailer. Note: The breakaway system is not intended to lock up the trailer brakes after tow vehicle separation but rather to apply just enough braking force to keep the trailer from free-wheeling down the road. The breakaway system must be reset manually after it has been activated. So with all that being said its time to get dirty! Before you begin you will need a pair of snap ring (circlips) pliers, without them you will not be able to even start this job. Here is what you're up against..... First order of business is to remove the two snap rings (circlips) from both pins. Once the snap rings are removed you need to pull both roll pins out. Once the pins are pulled you can pull on the hitch receiver mount to separate the inner member from the neck, exposing the internal workings such as the shock absorber, master cylinder and such. Now this little guy is the best thing invented since sliced bread, this is the electronic reversing solenoid, Its sole purpose is to allow you to back up without the brakes locking up. If you've ever tried to back your trailer up without having the plug in your rig then you know what I'm talking about. If you don't have one of these little buggers then you will have to use a lock out key or plug. The purpose of a lock out key is to fit behind the front sliding roll pin to "lock it out" from sliding back and engaging your brakes while reversing. it is also suggested to use even with the reversing solenoid when backing over soft ground or up an incline without the brakes fully engaging. The plug is just that, a plug that goes in your master cylinder reservoir and accomplishes the same results. Once you separate the inner member from the neck you can separate the pushrod assembly from both the master cylinder and the safety release bracket and pull the cable attachment bracket off and replace it with the new one. Yours may or may not be broken or distorted, mine was not but I elected to replace it anyway. After you replace the cable attachment bracket and connect the cable you can start to assemble everything. When inserting the push rod into the push bracket you have to depress press the safety release bracket to allow the push rod to slide in. The correct orientation of the clip is to face it so the cable pulls towards the boat first then loops back around to either stick out the front or side of the trailer hitch. About the only problem I ran into was once I separated the inner member from the neck these plastic spacers became dislodged and was a mother to get back in position when reassembling. They fit in a recessed area on the master cylinder at the rear pin area and are next to impossible to place while sliding the inner member past them. The correct orientation is smaller flange towards the master cylinder. Honestly its not that big or hard of a job. Maybe a touch intimidating because nobody wants to tear into their braking system of their trailer and mess it up, but it seriously took me all of 20 minutes to complete, and 15 of that was trying to line up those plastic spacers!

I run with both rear locker bags full, Ramfill at 100% on surf side, 0% on non-surf side. CATS somewhere between -20 to -30 for goofy; 20 to 30 for regular. Trim tab around 20 to 30. Significantly more trim for goofy if everyone decides to sit on the port side of the boat. I had a bigger crew (4 adults, 3 kids) this past weekend and had to crank the trim past 50 to get it to clean up. I also have 200 lbs of lead in the SB locker, 150 lbs in the port locker. The corner of my rubrail on the surf side is a couple inches under water sitting still. It's about 4-5 inches under water when moving. Wave is very good. I run anywhere from 10.8 to 11.8 depending on who is surfing. My locker bags are not factory. I have a Wakemakers lbs 40"x25"x15" bag on the port side; 50"x25"x15" bag on the SB side. The 50" bag is a little too big. i ordered the boat without the PnP bags so I added all of that gear myself. It works through the touchscreen since it's a 2016 boat. i have QuickSurf but every time I use it, it kills he wave. One day I'll figure it out but my listed wave is really good this year with the lead so there's not much incentive for me to screw with it much.