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Showing most liked content since 09/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    No August or September Pic and Video thread...? Shame on you guys! I just whipped together an edit from my ride last week and wanted to share it with y'all! I know I've been away from here for quite some time, but I still love the Crew! Hope everyone had a great summer!
  2. 2 points
    We are the largest Centurion dealership in the world and haven't had a single customer of ours hydrolock a boat. I have heard it is possible to hydrolock one if you are just running stock ballast, but I imagine we would have seen it if that were the case. Every hydrolock issue I have heard of is from guys running additional weight AND having people sitting at the transom which sinks it even deeper in the water. If you aren't running additional lead you shouldn't have a problem, though I wouldn't let the boat sit for a couple hours fully ballasted. If you are running lead it's simple - just dump Ramfill or PNP at the rear before going swimming and you will be fine. Welcome to the only downside to a boat that can pack 5,000+ lbs of ballast.
  3. 2 points
    Have this boat. Ripped out the hard tanks and replaced with sacks. If you surf goofy do the Asymmetrical wakeplate mod. The SV230 is the original surf boat and still hangs with the new boats.
  4. 2 points
    Moved into my new home about a month ago and built a detached garage for my baby so she now has her own home. Most exciting part....I no longer have to fold the tower! Stays much cleaner now too being fully enclosed since before the front and back has ghetto tarps to keep out the rain, but did not keep out dust, etc. 32ft long X 16ft wide detached (also made entire roof truss system into a 12ft wide X 32ft long storage area). 14ft high ceilings with 12x12 garage door and at last minute, I decided to insulate, finish with drywall/paint....and installed a wall unit that has Heat & A/C. Got this picture yesterday when I came back from surfing. Bought a new Ram 1500 about 2 weeks ago too with 3.92 gears, 5.7 Hemi and the tow package, rated for 11,340lbs towing and 1840 payload (total 17,000 GVWR....so realistically 9k is the most you can "legally tow". Handles my SV244 with easy and is much better feeling than the Chevy I have been using for the last 2 years. Even tho the tow ratings are similar on both trucks, the Ram is more powerful and just handles better and brakes are WAY better when backing down a steeper ramp.
  5. 2 points
    I guess I can add some pictures to this thread.
  6. 1 point
    Typhoon is the larger Avalanche. Typhoon = 23' 100" beam Avalanche = 22' 100" beam Elite V = 21' 93" beam
  7. 1 point
    Did this a few years back on my '03 Avy. I had a heater port and a sub in the footrest. Sawzall around the perimeter. Used styrofoam between the back part of the hump and the steering cables and other junk that was hanging out back there so I didn't cut anything. Built a "bridge" over the hole in the floor with birch that was elevated using some plastic washers so air would flow in there and keep from collecting moisture. Coated the birch in fiberglass resin and think I plastic-dipped in black. Then mounted box with new JL sub onto the "bridge." Later built a section next to it to hold the heater vent. Was very please with the results
  8. 1 point
    schmexy! Good looking set-up; well executed. Even the dog matches the boat/truck combo!!
  9. 1 point
    Thats pretty cool. My buddy got a foil a few months ago, was fun to do something different tho you gotta be pretty careful to not get hurt. I got twisted up on the thing about a month ago, was unable to bail off in time and landed on the metal mast...made a nice gash in my shin, still wearing the scar! Lesson learned tho...when a foil gets squirrely, bail off. You can "force" a foil to come around cause of that mast (least I am not able to yet).
  10. 1 point
    The ski wake on the Fi23 should definitely be superior to the SL. I haven't skied behind the SL but Supra wakes are pretty brutal and if the SL is like any others I'm guessing it is pretty bad. Full disclosure the XT22 does probably produce a superior ski wake, but it will be a significant downgrade surfing compared to your SL, where the Fi23 will be an upgrade. If wakeboarding is a factor at all the XT22 will also be a downgrade from your SL where the Fi23 is probably almost a straight trade - both wakeboard great. Skiing is difficult to determine because it is entirely based on what you are used to skiing behind and how you ski (length, speed, aggresiveness, etc.) along with what ski you are on. As far as V-Drive boats go the Fi23 is pretty good overall and quite good if you are skiing recreationally. If you are skiing at tournament level it isn't great, but then again no V-Drive out there is.
  11. 1 point
    This is a list I had put together and saved on my computer....so I will just copy/paste below. Some you will want to look into, some may not matter to your engine. ***Trick to installing new impeller....I use LOTS of dawn dish soap on the impeller and gently rotate it as you push it in, works like a charm and does not hurt anything. I have heard some people mention using WD-40, but that is not great for rubber, so I would avoid that if possible. NOTE....if you remove the old impeller and there is any damage, or vanes missing. It is VERY important to back-flush the system to get any debris out or you are guaranteed to get an overheat down the road from the debris blocking the system. (since you have to remove the belt anyway to replace the impeller, I always check it out very carefully for any damage. This is one part that I always keep a spare on the boat too. Trick to changing oil filter.... to prevent a mess, use a gallon zip lock bag. I put some paper towels under that area, a couple paper towels at bottom of the zip lock bag just in case and then I pull the zip lock bag up and over the oil filter after I loosen it a little and remove the oil filter INSIDE of the zip lock. All spilled oil stays inside the bag....once done you can just close it up and remove it from the boat with ZERO mess. The paper towels I put under that area will catch any remaining drips of oil. I clean up the oil filter area, make sure that the o-ring from old filter did not stay on the housing....put some fresh oil on the new oil filter gasket and then hand tighten the new filter into place. NOTE....You ALWAYS want to run engine and check oil level after replacing (I also check and double check for leaks around oil filter). Overfilling is worse for the engine than being slightly low....so I put in 1/2 quart less and check it and then add slowly till its perfect. I always check it multiple times on the water as well after replacing to be sure its the right level (not always easy to have boat at right degree when on trailer). You are supposed to let boat sit for 5mins after turning it off to let the oil drain down so level is accurate. Depending on your engine, you may have more than one fuel filter and with today's ethenol fuels especially, this is important IMO. A clogged fuel filter can cause run issues and burn out fuel pumps if not flowing freely. My ZR409 has the spin on fuel/water separator...and then the engine has the FCC fuel filter (always replace gaskets/o-rings at same time which are included with new FCC fuel filter...I also lube them a little oil). Some models have an in-line filter on the gas line between the gas tank and engine. I run only ethenol free fuel and it still looks dirty when I pull it each year for replacement. ( also tend to do the fuel filters in the Spring since you have fresh fuel flowing thru them and new filters wont gunk up during layup....likely they would not anyway, but again, I am OCD about the little things when it comes to my boat). Make sure you add the blue Stabil to your fuel before layup....start engine and let it run 15mins to circulate it thru the system. I also remove all my ballast bags to make sure no mildew under them...and I run a little AF thru ballast pumps to ensure there is no water trapped in the pump. This is also probably a good time to check your thermostat. This is what I do, tho they rarely go bad from what I understand. Of COURSE.....draining all the water out of your engine by removing all the drain plugs (don't forget the hidden one in v-drive). I have a perko flush valve and like to suck up Anti-freeze when done (there is small black adapter hanging off the cap of the Perko, you have to push this into the top before sucking up since that spring loaded valve will not allow it to open unless you have pressure on the line....like from a hose) but have found that sometimes just using a 5 gallon bucket to suck up AF after I drain does not like to work well or quickly....since system has no prime due to water being drained and nothing in impeller it does not like to pull in the AF since its sucking so much air (this will also happen if you have any kind of air leak in the system). So I bought a Harbor Freight transfer pump and use it to "pump" AF into engine since the pump creates its own pressure to push the AF into engine (you still have to start the engine tho to pull it all the way thru properly). I set up the system....turn it on and then instantly start the engine. 5 gallons of AF will go thru system in less than 60 seconds and ususally its coming out of exhaust at around 3.5 gallons.....which is why I do 5 gallons to be sure. Wal-Mart has them for like $3, Lowes is more like $5-$6 each. If your heater is not part of closed cooling system (and you have a heater)....make sure you empty the lines. Mine is part of closed cooling system with the ZR409 so I dont have to worry about it, but have found when draining the water in my engine that if I use a shop vac each time I remove a plug....I am able to get a LOT of extra water out and this can only be a good thing IMO. If I did have to drain the heater, I would use shop vac on the lines and then also blow them out with compressed air to be sure. (course freezing is an issue when water is not able to expand, so cracks something....but I tend to go the extra mile on everything for complete peace of mind). I personally change serpentine belt every 250hrs or 2 yrs. It can last longer, but figure its cheap insurance for $60 since a shredded belt can wreak havoc. My manual does not specify a time period, just says you should check it periodically for cracking, glazing or deterioration and replace if needed. Check all pulleys for any play when belt is off as well. (15mm socket for belt tensioner). NOTE....if you install a new belt, it will almost certainly be too tight to slip over the lip on the pulley for the belt tensioner. The first time I installed a new belt, this frustrated me. Finally realized that you DONT want to pull the belt over the tensioner last, you want to slip it over one of the pulleys that is smooth last and it will go on just fine. On my boat...this took 2 people since the belt tensioner was on one side of the engine and the smooth pulley (I used the one over the impeller pump), was on the other side of engine. Check manual for trans fluid since many engines are different and you NEED to run the correct stuff. Many older engines and some newer (like my 2014), call for the Dex IV trans fluid which is not easy to find anymore, I found some on Amazon. Another thing I think is important at layup is battery maintaining. A smart maintainer will pay for itself quickly since you can double the life of your batteries by keeping the charge topped off. Check water level of batteries before storage, if you need to fill....use distilled water only. Manual says to "remove the batteries" and store them off concrete, in a cool, dry place after checking water level. Guess it depends on if you have power where you store the boat. A TRICK....if you have to remove the batteries, use a zip-tie to tie together all the positive wires together...and negative wires together. I then also label them as battery #1 and #2 (I have 3 batteries since I added a 2nd accessory battery to my boat so removing them is a serious PITA for me...but I also have power and keep boat at my house, so I do not remove them at all. Check ballast impellers too. I find they wear out about every other year depending on use. Once the ballast impellers start to stiffen up, your ballast will lose water thru the impeller. Easy to replace, wakemakers has most of them in stock. SKIDIM has most of the parts for PCM and prices are some of the best I have found, they also offer 10% discount and free shipping over $99, not to mention they are fast to ship. Damp Rid pails in boat....spray down engine with something like "fluid film"...and if possible have some air movement in the boat to prevent mildew during layup. I also like to clean entire interior of boat, 303 all my vinyl really well....remove all my seats and store them inside boat in a way that the vinyl wont get messed up and I also clean exterior of boat and wax for protection....tho Spring is ususally when I do any buffing, etc. (I also leave impeller in during layup since I suck up AF into engine, then I replace in Spring so impeller is fresh....even manual says you do not want to leave it in the engine over layup cause the vanes can take a permanent "set"). Many people remove it anyway tho and tie to steering wheel inside a baggie so it cannot be forgotten and also leave a list with anything else they did....like maybe close the main water intake valve, I never do that tho since its super easy to foget something like that, start up the boat in Spring and realize too late that it was not sucking any water from lake and engine overheats). I leave my impeller in during layup, since I sometimes take boat out during colder months, but we ride thru Thanksgiving and then back out in late March or early April. NOTE....The other reason I change impeller during Spring is cause I like to test it. Some of the new impellers will come with manufacture defect and "spin the hub", which basically means the hub separates from the actual impeller so even tho its all hooked up right, the hub is spinning....but impeller is NOT. This will overheat the boat fast, so I ALWAYS test a new impeller in my driveway before going on lake and make sure to idle the boat for 15mins, or till the boat reaches operating temp and then starts a cooling cycle so I know its working right.
  12. 1 point
    A lot of dealers are not ordering the cats as a lot of buyers are uninformed about cats and it just confuses them. Personally I would never order a centurion without cats and it would stop me from buying a used one without it. Was just reading a thread in another forum about someone complaining of always having to get people to move around to level his boat out while underway. This is one of my favourite features of cats of always having a level boat while cruising and never having to ask people to move. Cleaning up or shaping the wave with it is an added bonus.
  13. 1 point
    I do the same thing and run my pumps with engine off. I only have 3 pumps tho since I have Ramfill. 1 for bow and 2 for rear lockers. I also have 2 banks....and added a 3rd battery on my accessory side but ran the pumps the same way before I added the 3rd battery last summer. Definitely no issue running all the pumps with engine on tho I would think, especially if you are keeping batteries on a smart charger when off the water to keep them topped off so the last (and check the water level in batteries at least once a year, add distilled water if low). Keeping water at right level and the charge topped off, will maximize the life
  14. 1 point
    Hey, thanks for the suggestions and just for an update. The multi-meter told the tale....the ground wire on the bundle at the back of the control head (that I could not see) had worked loose and caused the problem. A little solder and it was good to go. Thanks again Centurion Crew
  15. 1 point
    I missed a August pic, vid thread. Coulda/shoulda started on. I’ll be riding through November and back at it again in February so I’ll be sure to post pic threads this winter.
  16. 1 point
    Hey Man, I got your September rider thread started over here somewhere. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/13209-september-2018-ride-pics/
  17. 1 point
    You’d have to be some kind of “touched” individual to go from a Centurion to a Mastercraft ... lol
  18. 1 point
    Little shout out to my slalom skiers.
  19. 1 point
    The 1847 did the trick on my v226. Surfs great with 4K of ballast.....also will pull a skier or wakeboarder great!
  20. 1 point
    We run the 16 X 13 and are at sea level. Tried other props but the 16X13 works best.
  21. 1 point
    Yes & yes, we run the 16x13 prop on our Fi23 409, same shaft with 500lbs extra lead at 5500ft elevation. Surf Rpms are between 3500-3800 depending on speed and crew, top speed is 32mph wot. I personally think if you’re at low elevation you could run the 16x15, acme just recently came out with one for that shaft size, think it’s a 3337 if I recall correctly. For what it’s worth I personally know 2 other FI owners locally running the same setup all with close to 100 hrs this season and no complaints. Keep in mind that up to a year or 2 ago even the supercharged motors were on 1 1/8th diameter shaft. hope that helps.
  22. 1 point
    Put the covers back on and wrapped/glued the cut off end of a wetsuit sleeve over the top of the guide for further protection and to keep the covers from sliding down. 3M 90 adhesive: Previously added these collars (photo below) so the tubes won't jamb against the welded on bumps. That keeps the tubes from bobbing up. We will make more of these and will list on our ebay store. It's just a snug fitting ring CNC'd out of plastic. All done. Thanks for following along. We do stock the Minicell foam if you can't find it locally. I have some extra ABS pipe so willing to make some of these tube covers for those who would rather buy than DIY. All the best, Hein DIYvan.com 54l 49O 5O98
  23. 1 point
    We've been out riding quite a few times this summer. More hot glassy days on the river this season.
  24. 1 point
    So I have a 2005 Avy and upon laying it up for winter I noticed my strut bushings are going. Since I head to pull the shaft I figured I would freshen up the dripless since I'm right there. After talking to Tim the owner of Glide bearings I have decided I am going with his product. I don't work for him or have any interest in his company other than he was a very nice and helpful guy and I like to support these kinds of people. He did say this was factory equipment offered on many of the current boat models. Anyway I thought I would share my project progress. It is currently torn apart and I am waiting for parts so here is how I got it apart. I first took the back seat off the hinge and got that out of the way. I was then able to reach in and get at the four flange bolts with a 9/16 box wrench on one end and a socket wrench on the other. When you get these undone the coupler will separate into two pieces and you can separate the flanges. Next step was to feel around for the set screw that has an Allen head on it. This thing jams up against your shaft nut making it unable to spin loose. Once this was backed out I climbed out of the boat and put a 2x4 between the prop and the rudder, climbed back in the boat and undid the shaft nut. Now I needed to separate the shaft from the coupler to do this I set a socket on top of the shaft inside the coupler and got some longer bolts out of my bolts bin. With the socket sitting on top of the shaft I bolted the two flanges together with the longer bolts. The socket makes it so that as the two flanges are trying to bolt together all the pressure was on the socket head and after a couple turns it popped. Now back outside the boat. I undid the prop nut and used my homemade prop puller and removed the prop. I also layer a 2x4 on the trailer for the rudder to fall on. Now I climbed back in the boat and pulled the fiberglass exhaust out of the way, I still need to do the impeller and the belt so it's just easier for me but this is probably not necessary to pull the rudder and if your rudder is offset you may get to skip this step. Anyway I undid the bolt through the rudder and it dropped onto my 2x4. Out of the boat again I put a couple 4x4's on top of my floor jack and jacked the boat up enough for my rudder to clear the trailer. Pulled the rudder then lowered the jack. Now I pulled my prop shaft out and inspected it and polished the wear spots...all looks good. I then climbed back in the boat and pulled my existing dripless out. It was dried on and took some coaxing. Im done until I get some parts I'm in it about an hour and a half. Part of that time is because I've never done this before and figuring it out as I go. This project has all been done essentially blind. I can feel what I am doing but can't really see it. This project is not something I would consider fun, tight quarters and difficult reaches etc. but this is not something I would be afraid of if you have decent mechanical skills. I get all the luck, I've only had this boat a year. I ran it twice last year after I bought it and noticed stiff steering so I had the fun of a steering cable, wasn't as bad as people made it seem. Now this year I find this one, again so far not to bad. If I don't do this stuff myself I can't afford a bunch of toys I could only have one so I end up knowing every bolt on everything I've ever owned on a very personal level. If anyone else is tackling this project let me know if you need help. If there is any interest I will update as I put it together and let you know my thoughts on the Glide product and how it works when I run it next year.
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