Nukeproof187

Turns our the light was faulty, and shadow caster is sending out another.

I’ll see what happens. Definitely frustrating, but can’t be too hard of a fix.

I did that, but it always defaults back to all no matter what color I left it on. I messaged them and they told me to call on Monday. Hopefully it’s just a programming issue.

Ok so last night I ran the relay, and thicker wire. Lights come on and stay on, but now the port side automatically diverts to the blue/white while the starboard side defaults to the factory blue setting..

Thank you, I appreciate the info/help.

The only thing that made a difference initially was removing the underwater light option, and re-applying it to the touch screen. Had me scratching my head. The amp draw is 7.8 amps per light per shadow casters series diagram. I plan to run a thicker gauge wire after the relay. Alongside a 20 amp fuse that should be sufficient yes?

The only way they would stay on for longer than literally one second was to toggle the lights to the blue/white fade option. The longest they would stay on was maybe three seconds. The next idea I was thinking was to add a relay from the stock power lead with a 20amp fuse.

Yes they are. Even tried this while the motor was running, and still had the same results.

Managed to get the lights on, but they will turn off after a few seconds.

Hmm. Maybe I am missing something then.

I entered the dealer code to apply the swim deck button to the touch screen. Is there another step I am missing or a lack of fuses for the wiring?

Any insight on why the lights would not be receiving any power when connected to the factory swim deck wiring?

Also the boat is pre wired, and you can go through settings to change the options for lights on the dash.

I went with the scr-24's in white/bimini blue.

spoke with centurion. Figured it out.