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mikeyr114

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Posts posted by mikeyr114

  6. Posted

    As far as the speedometer - could be an issue with your paddlewheel. It is located in my 2010 avalanche right in front of the v-drive unit in a thru-hall fitting. It is about an 1.5" round black plastic piece that will unscrew. You can replace that or rebuild it. Last time I looked rebuild kit was about $35 and the new unit was maybe $120ish? Pretty simple plug and play. 

    You may also want to explore the GPS sensor that is plug and play from www.nauticlaugic.com 

    There are some benefits and drawbacks to each that I am not totally familiar with relating to water current based on usage ( river vs. lake or bay )

    In my 2010 Avy, I have a right hand rotation prop which throws a great surf wake on the "goofy" or drivers (starboard) side with just ballast, but to get a surfable wave on the "normal" or port side I need to add a wakeshaper device. I use the mission delta device and have had great luck in addition to the ballast tanks. This device goes on the opposite side that you are surfing on just below the water line at the rear of the boat. I have also upgraded to bigger bags in the rear two lockers, which is something you will probably want to do. 

  8. Posted

    Hello all - Hope your watersports seasons were good. Upstate Ny here so we typically have a few weeks left, however I blew my transmission last week on my 2010 Centurion Avalanche. Sucks, but good timing as it will spend the winter in the shop now. 

    Question that I have, the boat has the PCM 343 with a PCM transmission Right Hand Rotation Prop. The dealer tells me that I can order the new transmission in left hand, and obviously change the prop. I am running the ACME 1234 which is absolutely great with hole shot, good top speed, and incredible on fuel efficiency, so I would switch to the 1235(LH version).

    My question is this - We mostly wake surf and are mostly all surfing normal side (not goofy) - would this be a good switch for me and does anyone foresee any issues? From all of my research it appears to me that the LH rotation will perform better and clean up my wake lip. 

    Rest of set up - 780 pound bags in both rear lockers, 250 port and starboard under seats and 250 center under floor. Decent crew typically (4-6 minumum). Also I use mission wakeshaper.

    IMG_7637[42639].jpg

  23. Posted

     

    Wiring your new Motorized Ball Valve
    This U.S. Solid motorized ball valve comes with two wires. It is most easily used by wiring directly to a power source or simple on off switch. Because this is an auto-return valve, simply shutting off the power will close the valve. Like most U.S. Solid products, the motorized ball valves come with an guide for getting started. You will not have to agonize over finding appropriate wiring diagrams, because it will all be laid out for you in a covenient information sheet.

  24. Posted

    They kind of contradict in the description whether it needs another voltage shot to close it with this line:

    2 WIRE AUTOMATIC RETURN SETUP- Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed

    I have 5 tanks and 2 ballast puppys currently. All stock setup with stock tanks. I am debating how to add to the system without losing factory functionality. If these valves will work it should substantially reduce my fill times over the sprinkler valve set up with them being full flow. I would then feel comfortable with adding bags to my rear lockers without fearing taking forever to fill with current system. 

     

    I may just order one and see how it functions. If I redo manifold only and keep the two pumps should I crossover them to increase flow? Each puppy would need an inline check valve then?

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