scttmzr

Yeah, that is either gator step or seadek. I'm not sure what material Supreme uses from the factory, but either way they are basically the same. I don't know of any special way to clean this material, but anytime I have had a blood stain on something I have used hydrogen peroxide to get it out. Not sure if it will work on gator step, but you could give it a shot. Maybe try a little in a small non-visible corner first.

Hmmm, maybe I was just unlucky and received a defective part then. I can now say with certainty that the issue was in fact the idle air valve. I installed the new OEM Mercruiser part last night, and it completely resolved the idle issue. Boat runs great now! As a note for anyone else that goes to change their air idle valve, removing the air intake plenum (black cover with the scorpion logo on it) requires you to remove 2 nuts that are hidden beneath towards the rear of the engine. I had figured just the 6 torx bolts on top would do it, and it took me a while to find the other two nuts. They are a pain to get at!

Well, I can report that the Standard Motor Products AC423 did NOT work. It only made the boat run worse. The OEM Mercruiser parts are on order now.

The gasket included with the Standard Motor Products AC423 in case anyone searching in the future stumbles across this.

From what I've read online it seems that my 2005 Enzo SV230 has all the symptoms of a failed Idle Air Valve (IAV). It stumbles around idle coming out of gear quite often and sometimes even dies, and the only way to get the engine to start when its hot is to give it neutral throttle. After some reading online I ordered the Standard Motor Products AC423 Idle Air Control Valve of Amazon for $40 (In comparison to the $178 for the OEM Mercruiser 866326) which is supposed to be a direct replacement. Multiple people on Amazon said it worked perfect on their Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI so I figured it should work on mine! Of course when I received the part and went to install it I found a couple things that I'm not so sure about: The original part I removed (assuming it is OEM) does not appear to have a pin and spring in it that the new replacement part has. Anyone know the function of this, or if it is of any concern? The replacement part came with a small rubber gasket that is definitely not correct for this application; it appears as though it should be used in an application that has a machined groove more like an o-ring would have. After searching for the correct gasket online, all I seem to find pictures of is a simple thin sheet style gasket that is cut to the profile of the valve. The gasket I removed from the boat was pretty thick and is overmolded on a mesh screen material. I'm wondering why this screen would be necessary? Does it keep the foam filter (see question #3) from entering the valve? When I searched for the OEM replacement gasket I found that the original P/N 865168 was superseded by 866326... The notable thing here is that the part description of the gasket also changed from "Gasket, Flame Arrestor" to just plain "Gasket". Did they remove the screen from it for the new part? Once I removed the gasket I found a small foam filter (Mercruiser P/N 865266) in the bottom port of the intake air valve adapter body. Anyone know the function of this filter? Any air that is in the intake manifold has already passed through a much finer air filter so I don't understand it's purpose. I ask all these questions because I'm trying to get the boat water ready in time for the 4th, and I'm struggling to find the OEM gasket readily available.