rrd525

The throttle has a small creep right in the cruise range. If we want to hold at 3800 RPM, it will slowly fall to 4000 RPM. I looked into the Teleflex CH2200ENC throttle manual and it mentions a throttle brake, but I can't find the adjustment screw. Do you remove the chrome bezel and handle? I can't match the location they reference in the diagram on page 2, top right corner.

http://www.marineengine.com/products/technical_information/CH200ENC_side_mount.pdf

I saw you asking about surf speed. Vary between 11.0 to 11.6 mph in most cases. Adjust the speed for length , height and head winds.

We are usually 11.2 to 11.4 mph. RPM sits between 3200 to 3600.

7 hours ago, Odishaw said:

 

Here’s a pic of the rear locker (not completely full) any ideas

 

 

 

Not sure off hand as we run sumo 1000s. Judging by the size of bag in the locker, and that it isn't quite full, they could be Fly High 1100.

7 hours ago, Odishaw said:

And I’m guessing this is the valve to let out the factory hard tanks?

Yes, it is operated by the open/Close switch. Should it fail, you can manually open the valve.

Open fills the tanks, let them sit open for say 2 mins. They will flood full. Close the switch to keep the water in the hard tank.  To drain the hard tank, open the switch for about a minute while driving at 10+ mph. Then close the switch.

Fill both hard tanks 100 percent,  fill both rear POP bags 100 per cent, fill center tank 100 per cent, fill bow bag 50 to 100 per cent. Right or left surf tab all the way down  then maybe a few clicks up. Trim tab usually between 50 to 100 percent, but adjust to your boat and crew size. You can also Bleed a few seconds of water from opposite hard tank to clean the wave if needed.

You will have 4 pumps. One for center, one for bow, one for each rear PNP bag. If the rear bags are still factory, they are too small, go for 850, 1000 or 1100's. Or/ and add some lead weight bags at the rear transom corners.

Change ballast impellers probably once per season. And you may need to stick a rubber cork in your rear POP bag vent hole if they are draining while surfing.

 Have fun out there.

I posted a similar issue last month on our 2016 S238.

A dealer advised to check all fuses, and especially the main fuse there and harness.
We also swapped our water/fuel filter out again after 20 hours of use, and changed the FCC filter.
We always use premium fuel to reduce ethanol content, and use Stabil during winter storage.

*****
Our boat has been reliable, but yesterday threw us for a loop.
Wouldn't get fuel and keep running.
Initially we thought vapour lock but that wasn't it.
Tried the main fuse, batteries off for a reset.
No fuel pump prime noise. Eventually find the fuse panel under the engine cover. There we found the 20amp fuel pump fuse blown and burnt.

Easy, swap it with a new one. Wrong. I have 6 of every fuse size, but not in mini.

Luckily we keep wire, ends and tools onboard and we hobbled together a fix to keep us surfing for the day.

Needless to say we now picked up mini and maxi fuses to add to the arsenal.
Still at a loss as to why the fuse failed.
******

We have Straight line Sumo bags and used their 1" NPT quick flow fittings that connected directly to the stock flowrite fittings. I imagine Ronix has a similar setup.

It literally takes 5 mins to wrap Teflon tape on the fittings, thread them in the bags, and replace the stock ones. 

Just the quick fittings. 4 of them. They screw right into the bag with some Teflon tape on the threads.

If you are buying 850s May as well spend a few extra dollars and just go 1000s. I actually prefer the 1000s. You should reinforce the dividing panel a little, and we are the cup holders in with hose clamps.

Thinking of a spare Prop on our S238 as Wakemakers is running a sale.
We currently have an ACME 1939 with the PCM343. Boat between 370' to 1000' Elevation. It runs between 3200 - 3500 RPM.
Running upwards of 4000+ lbs Ballast.
90% Surf, 10% Wakeboard.
We run a few long lakes, so need to have some speed to get back to the launch reasonably.
Would anyone recommend a 1433 or 1847 as the spare? And which over the other?

Thank you both.
We always turn it 'Off' when put away. Try to plug it in and ensure a full charge after each outing. Doesn't happen every time, but often enough.
My family was all on the boat during the orientation, we all heard run it from 'Combine', and I questioned it. 
Our old boat had the 1 or  2 / or 1+2 Perko and we knew exactly how to run that.

Thanks again.
 

Bringing this one back from the depths of the sea.

Our 238 came with the factory 2 battery, BlueSea Off-On-Combine Switch, BlueSea ACR and Powermania Turbo charger.
Our dealer had told us to always place it in Combine. Doing research yesterday for adding our 2nd amp, it looks like we should only be using the 'ON' position for the switch.  'Combine' will be for emergency start only, as the ACR handles all other charging during operation and floating?

PRV321's reply above seems to follow the theory.  Others say 'Combine' always.
 

What Brand of lead are they stocking? Pop or WakeBallast? 

We're derailing the thread.

We're super close to Alouette, so this is our home lake.
We hit Pitt and Cultus once in awhile, and spend time on Osoyoos  as well. Did you grab your S238 from Extreme?

We have a 2016. I think these were our settings last summer.
Sumo Sac 850's full, Quick Fill Full, Center tank Full, and maybe some Bow bag weight depending on passengers and seating. We also run 335 lbs of lead. 80lbs at the rear of each locker, 25 lbs at the front of each locker, 50 lbs under Port Seat, 75 lbs under Starboard seat.
Quicksurf all the way down, Trim tab 20 - 50% depending on surf side.
Speed 11 to 11.4.
Bleed a little off the non surf side quick-fill to clean the wave.
Full fuel when we start, and on most outings just 2 adults, and 2 teen boys. So 3 of us on the boat during a surf session.
We have plenty of push.

Each rear quick fill tank should be 500lbs, center tank 350 lbs.
Front bow bag 500 lbs.

Can a SupremeCrew cover be added into the deal?

6 minutes ago, DarksideR said:

Hey! Sorry for the late reply. Been busy with the board company and haven't had alot of time to check with the Crew. I had talked to Larry sometime in the middle of the summer about making me a new FAE. Then about a month later I sent him another email asking if it was being made and if I needed to ship the original back first... no response. Another two weeks later I emailed again... no response. So, I do not endorse his product and now I have to resort to having a machine shop hack it up to try to make it work myself. The mudflap thing I strapped to it does the trick, but looks god awful, so I'm trying to do away with that.

On another note. The silent stinger does an ok job at reducing fumes and noise, but the way they have it allowing exhaust to exit the trailing edge of the plate kinda defeats the purpose. On really cold days we still get the "white cloud" coming at you on my buddies Ri and Fi's.

 

cheers fellas!

Thank you for the honest feedback DarksideR.  Maybe I should see Tony, and grab some measurements on an Fi or RI and see if I could make my own Silencer. Just purchase the rubber tubing and clamps then fabricate a Stainless or Aluminum plate with a tapered thru pipe.
Can't wait to get the boat out of storage.

48 minutes ago, h20king said:

Yep think it would be as bolt on as a bolt on comes. It would take some modification but not much. The key to it working is the exhaust tip. If you have a tip that is long enough for the hose to clamp to you should be good. I could have made it work on our 16 238 for sure.  As for what it would do to the wake one could only speculate 

Thank you for the speedy reply. I think I will try and order a setup if they aren't too outrageous.

On ‎05‎/‎01‎/‎2018 at 11:56 AM, h20king said:

You can order the trim plate from your dealer it's 700$+ and make it work if you have the right exhaust tip on your boat 

h20king, now that you have your Fi in hand, do you think the Silent Stinger would have been a direct bolt on to your S238?
Will the shape of the Silent Stinger with the additional wings and small turndowns affect the wave, or offer improvement?
My assumption is you need to ensure the Lenco Ram ears are located at the same point on the Silent Stinger to keep the plate travel the same, then the new Stainless Band clamps for the rubber outlet hose will clamp on the existing Exhaust hull Outlet.  The hinge shape and bolt pattern seems the same, but I am judging all this from photos.

All FAE provided pics with a Stinger.  Don't wan't to drop Canadian pesos if it will spray and wreck the wave.  Some action video from above and behind would be ideal.

1 hour ago, gravity12 said:

Thats what want to build. Where id you find that picture? Do you have any others? Different angles? 

They sent me 2 other pics from the same angle. They just show the stinger in different positions. I can post them later.

 FAE has a new through plate design for those of us with boats with the long stinger plate. You send your plate to them, they cut a hole and ship it back.  Our issue is the boat is in storage until May. We would like to have the setup in hand by mid April.
Does anyone know what Fineline would charge for a new Stinger Plate?  I still think the Centurion Silent Stinger would work well.
If I order or fabricate my own stinger plate, is it worth adding the side wings on a 2016 S238, or it is completely unnecessary on this year?

 

1 hour ago, h20king said:

You can order the trim plate from your dealer it's 700$+ and make it work if you have the right exhaust tip on your boat 

Would it have been a direct fit on your '16?
I came across this DIY design that was done on Wake Garage. Trim plate and FAE in one. Keeps the back end much cleaner.

I saw a Malibu facebook group buy on FAE going on with this code 'NEWYEAR18' for $75 off until January 12th.
 

On ‎03‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 9:19 PM, DarksideR said:

 So far, it's totally sturdy and showing no signs of loosening or anything. I'm going to email Larry and see if we can come up with a better solution. But for now, my mini beaver tail mudflap is doing the trick. Just looks ridiculous. 

Darksider was FAE able to create a solution for you?
My wife has asked me to look into putting an FAE on for this summer and I'm not too keen on it if it is not 100%. That, and with the double edge sword trim tab it will stick out a ways.
Really wish we could buy the RI stinger exhaust plate and tubing. Don't see why that setup wouldn't work. I would gladly pay a few more dollars to Fineline for that setup.  maybe it is as easy as buying the rubber exhaust tube from Fineline, and then fabricating a plate.

I initially pulled our S238 with a 2013 1500 5.3L Silverado.
Locally to the lake 15km each way and around town was fine with the S238. Braking was fine and with the grade braking of the truck there was never a concern stopping.

We live with hills and mountains surrounding us, so it worked in the RPM band. Longer mountain trips you needed to hit a gas station along the way. If you got out of the power band on a steep section due to traffic, you spent the rest of the climb creeping.
It was light on the open highway and you could feel the wind gusts trying to push it with the 238.
The 3500 is just so much nicer to tow with, and like you, I use mine as a commuter, so was very concerned about giving up my 1500.