jago bay baby

maybe you could share a pic of the finished dash since I already know the before. I was thinking of cutting in switches on the right side.

I think we might have the same boat and same colors I am super interested in the dash panels upgrade any pictures would be great. This year I replaced three switches.

I was wondering if anyone has experience setting their own mooring I have 4 20 gallon totes full of concrete with rebar criss crossing and protruding out the sides like a porcupine I have two chains down to heavier chain with two totes on each chain -- will this hold my boat falcon xp br direct drive on clear lake in California ????

30 foot of chain in 18 foot of water from the lake bed to the buoy and going to be 20 ft. of rope to the boat from the buoy and the rope will get shorter as the summer goes and the water goes down

I have a 94 falcon xp open bow it a direct drive so it could be a different set up but I have a 25 gallon tank same motor 351w and I get two full days out of one tank

boat wouldn't start thought it was a bad starter got towed in thankfully by an other falcon got her home and took off the starter and it is fine so I take a look in at the fly wheel / ring gear and it is toast speed freeks have more teeth and the teeth that are there are sharp just got a new tranny at the start of summer how could the fly wheel get chowdered in one summer ???

skibumm we might have close to the same boat - same colors for sure what engine are you running

okay guys I ordered the new fly wheel / ring gear and now I need to figure out what starter to buy so if my prop is a left hand prop does that mean that my engine is a left hand engine? there are two options for starters clock wise and counter clock wise I want to get all the right parts before cracking her open

so the engine is a ford Windsor 351 built by indmar with a velvet drive direct drive in a 93 falcon xp so no v drive its pretty simple.

how can you tell if your motor is rh or lh

holy stereo checkout this over kill http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/boa/5708949429.html

we are currently moored to 30 year old wood poles and one of the poles broke in half because it was rotten we decided to go with mooring buoys instead of pile driving poles because of the cost. We looked up the lake Tahoe specs and they say 1500 lbs per buoy but that seems like a lot. we have three boats to moor a centurion falcon xp , a Calabria v drive and a American skier the Calabria is about 3500lbs and is the heaviest. we have three guys to do the job we were thinking about renting a pontoon to do the work. we need ideas on how to get the weight to the bottom and what it really needs to be. cement weighs 20lbs a gallon and we do not want to put 15 5 gallon buckets in the water .... any help would be appreciated we are on clearlake in cali.

we are super mindful of our lake we will be handing the lake house and the lake to our children when we get to old to walk the stairs

thanks tommy I will post pics we are gathering material and planning right now we have a difficult spot its over 100 stairs to the lake from the road so everything has to be boat delivered so it takes a while to get all the materials on the beach

thanks for all the ideas we are going to make forms pour cement and use a post across the pontoons on a rented pontoon boat as to not damage our own boats we are going to use 1250 lbs per pour I will post pics of the process and results

I never thought about making a form that might be the way to go

the bottom of the lake will not allow for the pressure washer its all rock. we have talked to the pile drivers and they said that will not work they quoted us 6500 a pole

we thought about engine blocks also but don't want draw the attention of the environmental watch dogs we have neighbors who complain about cutting down trees that are leaning toward our houses and getting a hold of three engine blocks and also getting them out in water as far as we need them

are you talking about the trans cooler

where was it stored lake co. ??

checking the trans after first run and there is a pinkish milk shake color to the fluid that means water in fluid just bought the boat and when purchased it had good looking trans fluid could this be a cooler leak bilge is clean and no water any where else what should my next step be?????

I am going to suck out all the fluid and refill it start her up on the fake lake put it in gear once than suck it out again and fill it and repeat until it runs clear and give it a try on the lake also might replace trans cooler ???? what does it cost to rebuild a drive ???

boat has 325 hours on it what should I be looking at to get her ready for the summer on the lake we have a summer house on clearlake and she will sit in the water all summer and be used almost everyday of the season

thanks man we are on the south end of the lake we were rocking a galaxie with a v6 so the new boat will be a upgrade hope to see you on the lake we will be on the water all summer. jago bay,richmond park area