2ndtimearound

Now there's a thought for emergency bilge pump. I've got 3 in my boat, should suck it dry in a hurry.

I have the 2013 v226 with the hard tanks. We found that running the Starboard hard tank full actually gives us better push in addition to the regular setup. So we run center, port and starboard hard tanks full. ~800lbs port rear locker (or as much will fit until the locker is full), 600 lbs under passenger seat and 100lbs under front bow seat. It's usually just my son and I so that's our current setup without extra weight from passengers. Run the tab about 50%.

I had the same problem with my boat lift. I have to make sure the bunks don't land on the Air Mar unit. I went the Nautic Logic route. Super easy install. The stock speed control in my boat isn't all that great in terms of speed variance but I'm trying to find out if it's normal for that stock system. Maybe that's as good as they get. I have Stargazer in another boat and it's far superior at holding speed.

I'm wondering what kind of speed variance you experience with the stock digital speed control. It seems that mine can varies quite a bit +- .6 mph. I upgraded to the Nautic Logic gps puck but it still is not nearly as good as the Stargazer in my other boat. That one sticks within .2 mph. Is this variance standard for the stock speed controls in the Supreme/Centurion line? I have the Indmar engine not the Merc with the smart tow. Is it better to upgrade to PP and/or is mine not normal in controlling speed?

Lake....glass flat, no wind.

If you're just talking about the engine oil, it's basically the same as a car except easier because the remote oil filter is a lot easier to get to. Personally with warm engine I just pull the drain plug on the stern and run the oil drain tube out the drain hole then over the side of the wake plate and into a bucket. 15w-40 is recommended and I won't get into the brand name oil wars, but FWIW I use Rotella.

what's interesting to me, not even close to related to this thread, is that I remember Kevin B from the Malibu Crew from waaaay back. Yep, I'm an old duffer but due to my neighbor riding a v232 and me borrowing it ALL THE TIME for surfing I finally sold the old Bu and bought a V226 so the kids could wakesurf to their hearts content and I no longer needed to borrow the v232. Oh...but to stay on topic my Obrien is the Xvert PRO. LOL Funny thing, my wife still likes to surf it.

Welp! I guess you guys saved me some $$. I'll stick with the downturn exhaust on mine. I've surfed it a bunch lately and I don't notice the exhaust while surfing but it does rattle the trim tab pretty good at idle. I wedged some rubber in the hinge and it's quiet for now.

Has anyone ever come across the ballast switch light come on when you put the switch in the fill position but when you switch it to empty the light doesn't come on? The pump is working and emptying the ballast but the light doesn't come on. Both the center and port ballast switch just started doing this recently. The Starboard switch light works in either the fill or empty position.

I'm not sure which Carling Switches these are but if they are on-off-on with two independent independent lamps it makes sense that I may just have a loose wire issue. I wasn't able to see/reach the backs very well in order to determine if that is what it was.

We have an old Obrien skurfer style from around 1990. It's in great shape. We still like to use it once in a while and I've used it to help some of my sons less athletic friends get up on the water when they have trouble on a wakesurf board. I'll have to dig it out and see what model it is. We like to horse around on it and it's actually fun to try to get super air off the surf wake.

I have a 2013 V226 with hard tanks. Both rear tanks don't seem to have an issue holding water while surfing. We only surf regular and the tanks are low enough that they don't seem to drain out the overflow outlet. The center tank does drain and I'm wondering are there check valves on these boats somewhere between the aerator pump and the tanks, if not is this where it's draining back out? We are heavily listed with 850lb bag on top of the port hard tank and roughly 600lbs under port passenger seat. I guess possibly there could be a leak in the front ballast system as yesterday was the first time I noticed the bilge pump coming on for a few minutes while surfing. We'd been out for an hour before it decided to kick on so not sure if that is an issue yet but will keep monitoring now that I'm aware of it. Not sure if there are known pump or leak issues with this particular year of boats. Any ideas would be great.

Good information. Unfortunately, I suspect the leaking tank is the one up front which is the hardest to get to. I'm installing vented loops this weekend to cure the draining while running and filling while sitting issue. I notice I can drain the tanks but by the time I get to the boat lift both rear tanks are half full again. I'm going to check the shaft seal as well to see if that's where I'm getting some of the water. It's not like she's sinking, it's just annoying.

OK..so I take it there are no known issues for this particular problem. Guess I'll fill the ballast and stick it on the lift and see if it's draining out the intake. I'll check to see if it's draining into the bilge while I'm at it.

On a 2013 V226 is there a submenu for adjustment for the air/water depth display? These gauges look like some kind of basic medallion gauge. Says Medallion on the sticker on the case but I couldn't find one like it searching online. If I cycle through the information I get engine hours 102.5, battery voltage 13.8, air temp 68, what I think is supposed to be engine water temp as it shows 157 F. If I try to find depth there isn't one it just cycles back through the previous items. It's strange because last week in the garage on the trailer I was getting both air and water temperature of 48 degrees which was correct. So I'm curious if maybe its the air mar transducer going bad or is there a super secret sub menu that I have to find to get depth and water temp to show up. I went through my whole Supreme boat owners manual and it didn't tell me anything.

Thanks. Betting the transducer is bad.

I have the Nubstep and it's become my favorite board.

Looks like it won't work anyway since there are very light leads going to the ignition switch and the switch only runs a relay. This boat is a little strange as the leads in and out of the relay are 18g or so- nothing substantial to be running all the options on that dash. I'll run a proper fused line from the battery to the stereo bank with proper gauge wire.

I like the round one. Looks good.

Now that I think about it my Malibu has all the switches hot without the key. I was trying to remember if I wired it that way or if it came like that. It's been a few years and I'm getting old and forgetful. Anyway, I don't think we ever had an issue leaving switches on. Why would you want the key on to run the anchor light, doesn't make sense.

I'll have to dig into it some more. The hot lead goes to the stereo switch first which is second over from the end. I'll have to do some jumping and hook the ignition switched hot lead to one of the other switches and jump to the daisy from there. I forgot about the hot side of the ignition switch. What I get for trying to sort it out with a head cold.

On my V226 the stereo switch is in a bank of switches and they are all daisy chained off the one lead from the switched block. After reading Vikings post I thought I'd just switch the lead to the hot block. Unfortunately, after I crawled under there and looked I only found the switched block and a daisy chain setup. I don't want all the switches hot because it's too easy for somebody to leave the lights or acc on by accident and drain the battery.

They must have dipped the threads in Loctite threadlock because there was so much solid red cement in the threads that it stripped part of the threads. Much easier to trade the boat in than to get those two pieces apart. For anyone else that wants to pull one apart, I found that you had to heat the threaded area with a torch and get it HOT before it would turn. I was basically melting the threadlock as it never would turn at garage temp. The pop up was a super easy fix once I got the bottom end off.

Did you get this figured out? I took mine apart and found that the spring guide rod came loose and the dislodged spring prevented the pylon from seating on the bottom threads.

I called ACME and asked about the minimum prop/hull distance. He said no less than 3/4". I ordered a 1433 which is 14" D to replace the 13.5 that the boat came with. After getting the new prop installed I've got 13/16". I can't imagine running 3/8-1/2" That's really close. My Malibu has over 1 1/2" of room. I'm surprised these run so close.