2ndtimearound

How much clearance do you have now with the 1579?

I thought he was just trying to get it out of the boat not take the actual pylon apart. Probably I misunderstood. Heated mine with a torch as well.

If it were me, I'd marine tex the wound and put the Darkside SS plate on it. Keep an eye on it. I'd probably use marine adhesive as a more permanent fix.

I wired to the constant post back in March. After I remembered my Malibu had all the accessories powered without the key and we never had an issue, I wired the Supreme the same. It's nice to have the ballast pumps available without the key on also.

My son and his buddy's wakeboard behind our 226 but they are intermediate at best. They enjoy it for something different but surfing is #1 now. The wakeboard wake is finicky on the 226. I get wash on one wake or the other and can never get it clean, ramped and with a kick like I'm used to on our old boat. I don't wakeboard anymore other than an odd pass once in a blue moon so I don't really care. The kids don't seem to care as they aren't throwing backrolls, tantrums, raleys or big air grabs. If they make it wake to wake with a 180 thrown in they are happy. As far as the setting up surf on the 226 it's KISS. Keep it simple stupid...list it, trim it and have fun.

X2

what will be the pitch and cup on the "retooled" or rather repitched prop? You can usually move by a pitch of 2 at max so maybe you'll be at 13.25x14 with minimal cup.

If you have the SS plate retrofit I'd go 13.5 x 14.25. Smaller diameter you're looking at an Acme 1643 or maybe a repitched 2227.

Too much prop slippage with that big bite 16" pitch. That's why it's running 500 rpm higher when it should be less at a 16" bite. I used this back when I was working on props. http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-slip-calculator/

Pull it up through the top. You can tap it up on the bottom with a hammer and it won't hurt it.

It's just double sided sticky tape right? Shouldn't be an issue. If you're worried about it pull it off and clean up the glue residue before you take it back to the dealer. Darkside that was a good find.

I've been wondering the same thing. Just Marine Tex the burn spot and put over a thin piece of sheetmetal. The metal should dissipate the heat sufficiently as not to cause an issue with the marine tex. It seems to me they must have changed the dimensions of the propshaft strut which causes the prop to sit closer to the hull. Just changing the motor from Indmar to PCM doesn't change the strut angles. It still needs to run true.

The core has probably split. I had to replace mine before. Easy replacement.

So far we've been the only ones out surfing other than our next door neighbors but we can only see a small end of the lake from where we are at. If he rides down by Eagle point or along the wall we wouldn't see him.

Viking, how's your blood pressure? I think my nearest Supreme dealer is NW Boat Sports which is still 2.5 hrs away.

Bummer, sorry to hear that Viking. Very frustrating for sure. I'm running a 14x14.25 on mine, what did Acme recommend for you?

I used a $7 rope ratchet off amazon and a 5x7 waterproof velcro pad attached to the cover. Took a D ring and used the hook side of the velco to hold the D ring. So far it works well and I didn't need to cut a hole in my cover. It rains a lot around here so the waterproof velcro is a must.

GFO packing replacement on a standard stuffing box not the type you have. One like this is what I'm talking about.

Bad ignition switch or if ignition goes to relay...bad relay?

OH...never mind. I thought you had the PSS shaft seal. I haven't worked on the shaft seal type that you have. Mine looks like this...

Measure the total length of the unit from the bellows end to the rotor end, it should measure between 6-6.125". If it's like mine, the factory never set the pre load. Mine measured the full relaxed length of 6.75" plus they got the bellows crooked so it wasn't running centered on the shaft.

Before the GFO type packing became tried, tested and accepted the PSS seal was the way to go. It still works fine but if you hang out on the cruiser forums, lots of folks have ditched the PSS. From a maintenance standpoint replacing the bellows every 6 years is a PITA or expensive to your pocket. GFO replacement is a 10 minute job at most and adjustment is even simpler plus no scramble to stuff rags into the shaft log when yer boat is sinking due to a bad bellows. :-)

Viking, I like it. The sub looks GREAT! I stuck the gps puck outside the window. It probably doesn't make a difference but on my last boat I had it inside the windshield and I noticed occasionally it took a little while longer grab the satellites.

That DD reverse whine was always a comforting sound. I think I'd freak out if that sound disappeared. I found my trim tab rattles at idle but not in motion. It made one heck of a racket until I figured out what it was and fixed it. One of the drawbacks of downturn exhaust.

I'd much rather have the std stuffing box, (not the model that fineline puts in, which is the model ID Mike has) with some GFO packing than the PSS seal I have in the Supreme. Much easier to maintain and no risk of blow out or gushing water when things go bad. I've got 800hrs on a GFO packing and never have to mess with it. My PSS seal has been problematic. Next project is to get it running right or junk it this winter and go back to a stuffing box with GFO.