LS1_SE7EN

I took mine out today for a few minutes.

Also where are you located? I have a 1996 Sport Bow rider for sale. http://www.centurioncrew.com/1996-Centurio...Bowr-t2045.html

Did you just buy this boat from Idaho?

Boat Hull Enzo SV240 Engine Options 328A - PCM ZR409 6.0L MPI CATANIUM PowerPlus V-Drive 409 hp (3 Year Warranty) 327F - Closed Cooling Kit for PCM 5.0L ProSport & EX343 319 - Engine Flush Kit (Transom Remote Flush and Brass Fittings) Gelcoat and Graphics Options Standard Gelcoat Package [standard Base Color: White] Black Canvas Options 432 - Gladiator Tower Bimini (Black Only) 94 - Bow Tonneau Cover (Black Only) 184 - Cockpit Cover (Black Only) WakeSports Options 440 - Gladiator Tower (White or Black) (Black only Wave) 187 - Center Ballast Bag (Under Storage Locker Lid) 404 - Enzo Bow Ballast Bag System (Upgrade for any Package) 175 - Centurion Wave Board Racks (Black Rubber Coated Forks) 701A - AXIS Swivel Centurion Board Racks Black Pr. (Gladiator & DoubleUp Towers) 429 - S Rack Centurion WakeSurf Board Rack Black Ea. (Blade & Fork Only, requires AXIS Board Rack) 340A - Gladiator Tower Lights 6 Light Set for 2 Pr Speakers (Use existing wetsounds) 343 - The 'Switch Blade' ("Wake Enhancer") (Polished Stainless) (N/A Bennett Trim Tab) 281 - SideSwipe Exhaust (N/A PCM CATANIUM Engines) Speed Control Systems 698B - Centurion DIG Dash w/ Centurion Paddle Wheel/RPM Speed Control 698 - ZeroOff WakeBoard GPS Speed Control (Added to DIG Dash) 698C - Centurion Pro-Vision Dash System w/ Zero/Off GPS Speed Control (exch.) Stereo Options Wetsounds...duh! Comfort / Convenience / Styling Options 383 - Stainless Steel Bling-Bling Package (Polished Steering Wheel & Center Cap, Shifter Knob, Pylon Cap, Gunwale Step Plates, Interior Logo Plates, Horn Cover, Bow Walk-thru Step Plates, Ventilation Covers) 332 - Stainless Steel Daytona Windshield 354 - Padded Vinyl Dash 247 - EZ Rider Seat (w/ Flip Up Bolster) 355 - Retractable Ski Tow Bar 93F - (4) Pull up Cleats 220.00 272 - Stainless Steel Rub Rail 258 - Wind Dam 368 - X-Large Fiberglass Swim Step 359 - Stainless Steel Analog Dash Billet Bezel Kit (exch for brushed plastic) 359A - Stainless Steel Dash Billet Bezel Kit (Required for Pro Vision Dash) 102 - Cockpit Table w/ Removable Mount (Pearl Color) 251 - Heater w/(1) Hot Tube & 2 Outlets 7 - Docking Lights Stainless Steel pr. Bow Hull Mounted 214 - 2nd Battery Package with Control Center 414 - Under Water Transom Light 420 - EU Package (Passenger Hand Rails, SS Muffler Tips, Fuel Shutoff Valve, Fireboy System) 325 - Bow Fill Cushion

Foiler, I did something similar. I Had an extra pair of polk MM 651s that I wasn't using. I took the tweeter off and put it in front of the dash so it would reflect off the windshield. All my speakers are behind the driver as well. I found the only thing missing while cruising, etc were the high notes. It saved me from cutting a hole in the dash. I simply ran it right where the dash "console" meets the fiberglass part of the dash. The wire come through between them and the tweeter is secure using double sided tape mounted on the surface. I ran the signal from my closest in boat speaker from the high frequency side.

Yes. It's 3/16" X 1". The one I used started out at 4 ft long. I cut two pieces out of it and drilled the holes. I do plan on spraying a few coats of black on the bars so I don't have any issues with it down the road.

LOL... In the open...

You have a dual battery switch? off / 1 / 1+2 / 2, etc.? If so, run the ground to the same place as the other battery and then run the positive to the terminal marked "2" on the switch. I ran the ground for my three batteries directly to the engine because It's 0 gauge and the current wiring in my boat is only 2 gauge.

I went with three D31T yellow tops. I ran 0 gauge to the switch and engine. I have one generic advanced auto marine battery for my starting battery. It has 2 gauge on it.

1. First of all there is a "mode" switch for both the Front and Rear channels. The mode options are High Pass (HP), Flat, and Low Pass (LP). I assume I set the Front channel with the 4 polk speakers to HP, and the rear channel with the sub to LP? Is this right? what h20king said. 2. Next there is a "Frequency" adjustment for both the Front and Rear channels. The range on the frequency is from 32Hz to 320Hz. What do I do with this adjustment for both the Front and Rear channels? You'll want to set the rear "sub" frequency to something relatively low. This setting affects what frequencies are sent to the sub. You probably won't want anything over 120 Hz. Depending on what kind of box you have and what it sounds like, adjust between 80-125 Hz while playing a song you are familiar with. If the sub starts to sound bad over a certain frequency, turn it down a little to get rid of the distorted/bad sound. I have mine set just below 100 Hz. 3. Next there is a "Input Level" adjustment for both the front and rear channels. The range on the input level is from 6V to 100 mV. What do I do with this adjustment for both the Front and Rear channels? The input level is the "pre-out" voltage from your head unit. Most sub pre-outs are 2V. A fairly simple way to do this is to turn the volume up to about 75% (gain all the way up as well. you'll turn it back down after setting this.). Then start from the lowest setting and slowly go higher. Once you hear it start to distort, back off just a little bit. This just matches your amp to the voltage your head unit puts out. After, set the gain back where you want it. 4. Last there is a "Bass Boost" adjustment for both the front and rear channels. The range goes from 0 dB to 6 dB. What do I do with this adjustment for both the front and rear channels??? Since you have a 10" sub, I would leave all the low stuff for the sub. I generally set mine about 75% of max for the sub and about 25-40% of max for the full range speakers. This helps keep the full range speakers distortion free at higher volumes. It will also help keep your speakers in tact since less movement of the woofer cone produces less heat which is what kills speakers. In your case I don't think you have to worry about overpowering your speakers.

Shite! I tried it two weeks ago cause I wanted another pair and it said it was expired then. I would have bought another pair if it had worked. hmm.

Thanks. I mounted mine in the same spot originally. I have a monster tower on my boat. It was half in the aisle way though. I ended up mounting it to the top section of the tower and it goes down and forward kind of like some mastercraft (I think) towers I've seen.

Do you have a side shot of it? how far in front of the top of the windshield does it sit?

I have the same one as h20king. Mine is 5 lights only though. Like he said, quality is great.

http://www.rocktheboataudio.com/html/51826.html found this one for $80 and it includes everything.