Hein

There are two relays under the dash that control the pumps and valves. There are some diodes attached to the terminals. I'd start looking there. If there are shorts or stuck pumps then that could create a temporary voltage drop that could effect the gauges.

We had a foil rider join us during our last sessions. He was towed in by the PWC and then rode our wave.

We had a ballast drain pump fail so needed to empty our tank with our backup pump connected to the vent lines. That took some fiddling at the dock. As we drained the tank the boat came up in the water and the cowl bumped the bottom of the dock wrapper. It broke the cowl which is weak enough to not cause any damage to the boat. So I ordered and new 3D printed cowl which arrived in a few days. Back on the water within the week!

Believe your boat has 4 tanks, two fill pumps, four drain pumps and 4 sprinkler valves at the back to control which tank is being filled. My guess is that you might have bad sprinkler valves or a pump that is stuck. Can you hear them run? We have an 08 Enzo and replaced the tanks with 4 bags and removed the sprinkler valves. (ended up reusing one so I could share on fill pump for both under seat bags). You may want to consider replacing the hard tanks with enzo bags and eliminating the sprinkler valves. You can use the existing fill pumps to both fill and drain. -Although we retained the drain pumps for our system. We used the existing wiring and switches. You are welcome to come look at our boat and perhaps some of the wiring is the same. We are in Hood River, OR and own a van up-fit supplies company. My contact info is at DIYvan.com Here's a thread our our boat projects: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/11066-2008-enzo-sv230-projects/ All the best, Hein

My cowl just covers the sideswipe port. You could definitely also put a silencer (I like the ggb inserts) inside the hose.

Put the covers back on and wrapped/glued the cut off end of a wetsuit sleeve over the top of the guide for further protection and to keep the covers from sliding down. 3M 90 adhesive: Previously added these collars (photo below) so the tubes won't jamb against the welded on bumps. That keeps the tubes from bobbing up. We will make more of these and will list on our ebay store. It's just a snug fitting ring CNC'd out of plastic. All done. Thanks for following along. We do stock the Minicell foam if you can't find it locally. I have some extra ABS pipe so willing to make some of these tube covers for those who would rather buy than DIY. All the best, Hein DIYvan.com 54l 49O 5O98

Got a little off kilter when loading the boat on the trailer and snapped one of the guide pole tubes inside the covers. I had previously recovered them with better cushion material so no damage to the boat but had to make a new guide tube. I purchased some new 2" ID ABS pipe and proceeded to cover it with 3/8" thick 2lb. density mini-cell closed cell foam which we also use under plywood floor in vans. Great material for this purpose as well. Photo below is of the old broken tube and some of the materials for making new one. Sprayed ABS tube and mini-cell with 3M 90 contact cement and then wrapped it. The bevel cut edge will let me overlap the end later. more spray glue for the overlap. overlap. Below. Carefully trim excess. Will sand smooth later. making some foam end caps. 2 layers for good protection and this also seals the ends so the tubes will trap air and bob up when the trailer goes into the water. This is important. 2nd layer of foam foam cover trued and cleaned up with some 80 grit: Top end wrapped with some heavy tape for added protection. When things go wrong this is what the hull hits so extra protection here is vital. Ready to go out to the barn, put the cover sleeves back on and install the new guide tube over the steel tubes.

August fun. Alex (soon to be my son-in-law) scoring a 360 on the smokey Columbia. Notice how he doesn't "claim it". Chill dude, Alex.

Ever try tapping/banging on the starter solenoid when it won't turn over? They can get stuck when hot.

Happy wife! Kim taking her turn:

July is almost gone. <sniff>

We've been out riding quite a few times this summer. More hot glassy days on the river this season.

We have the same boat and really like it. Spits out a great wave the way we have it setup. I've removed the hard tanks and put in bags plus have done a bunch of other stuff. Check out my build thread below. I would seriously consider an offer in the mid to upper 40s' for our boat.

Having a great time on the river so far this summer. Little issue is that our hour meter quit. I'm pretty it was not factory because of how and where it was spliced in. -kind of funky. Can anyone share where the OEM hour meter would have been and connected?

carb

installing our new prop. My method is to put on the puller, tighten the nut to put some tension on it and then gently heat the propeller with a propane torch until it expands enough to pop loose. Works great and no need to really crank down on the puller nut or bang on anything with a hammer. New prop was not very well de-burred so I'll clean up the sharp edges with some 200 grit.

Forgot to ask about the holes. I have a lot of projects going. Carefully punch those out to see if they line up. Sorry for all the back an forth. Prefer we continue the conversation via email. Hein at DIYvan . com All the best, Hein

Can you post a photo? Did you check the print out to see if was printed at full scale in both directions?

Glad you got it done without a trip to the ER. I was going to suggest spraying some silicon on the fiberglass part to lube it up. Good idea to check all the band clamps. Hoses compress over time and heat cycles. Preventive maintenance.

For pumps in general, the suction side would normally have the larger port. If you can determine the direction of rotation then put your drill on the shaft, turn it that way and then see which port sucks and which port blows.

Want to try one of my cheap a$$ suck wedges? I've got an extra one I could send out for you to try. Advise given about attaching the suction cups is spot on. I install ours below the waterline and make sure there is no air under the cups. Water is not nearly as compressible as air so creates a very strong suction. It goes right ahead of the sideswipe on our boat. The wedge surface is smaller but it's completely submerged with our ballast system filled. Fits on the middle section of the hull profile in the back. Photo below is of an earlier version. Current design has a smaller wedge plate. We've never lost it but it does float. Suggest painting it yellow. We carry a spare in case it falls off and we can't recover it.

Would like to see an update to this thread with some wave photos and/or video. Same for Shaka's implementation.

Download this file: http://www.impact3d.com/sideswipe_bezel.pdf print at 100% scale, cut out and see how it lines up with your bezel.

Good call to verify. I have the trim plate as an ellipse 5.200 x 7.560 so quite a bit shorter than yours. Can you post a photo? I can modify the model pretty easily but it's still nice to print a paper template to check the fit before printing parts.