Audionly101

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3FIONU?keywords=yellow%20bolster%20boat%20seat&qid=1458352517&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2 I added one of these to my Elite V. Had to get a little creative with the stock seat hardware but it was a pretty straight forward install. The color was not a great match but it was a amazon daily deal one day for $100.

Weight, weight and more weight! I tried making surf gates with some success but the best wave I could get out of my old Elite V was with it slammed. If you want an ok wave and a level boat try to build surf gate style tabs. There is not a whole lot of mounting room with the cut outs to attach much else back there. Do some searching around there are a number of threads with some very good info. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php/topic/10562-2000-elite-v-surf-ballast-setup/?hl=%2Belite+%2Bballast+%2Bsetup

I have used a number of different brands of these. I have started 4 diesels on a -20F morning with one on a single charge. When they work, they work well. I can say they have a very high failure rate. Even if you follow the instructions to disconnect immediately after the vehicle starts, many times they overheat and the battery fails in some cases even melting the battery pack.

A big factor to the Tractor is it's small footprint too. Think about being able to pull that 18ft boat with a smaller / midsize SUV or a compact pickup. You just cut your overhead down by not having to upgrade your tow rig to accompany a new boat as many of us have. And an 18ft boat will fit in most anyone's garage. If they are MSRPing it at 38-40k that is much less than a Supreme. You would have to pay 25% more to get even a bare bones Supreme at 50k new. Again, Is it ugly? Of course, but the function and pricing could out weight that in someone's decision.

The shape of the boat doesn't bother me. But that interior space is going to be hard to work with. I hope they are sucessful and are able to put a little more competition on our markets for these boats that are priced completely out of reach for your average boater. The boats priced into the 130k - 140k range is outrageous. Even the "entry level" boats priced at 60k is unreachable for the average boater. But 38k financed over 10 years with next to nothing down is a $400 a month payment. Now that is doable! Every inboard manufacture should be making something like this. I am sure it would be their best selling boats period.

As the others have said. I would still recommend the 911 prop. It is the most aggressive prop and you will need it even at little to no elevation. As far as the bags go my 2 cents: 750 in port locker 750 on port seat 400 under port seat and at most 400 of the 650 in the bow. Like I have recommended to the others, here was my winning setup. It pushed the limits of freeboard of the elite v and gave it the best wave I have seen.

32 psi probably is fine. I don't know the spec but as a car guy I would be OK with 32psi as a generic pressure.

I have buckets of weights I haven't used if someone was local and wanted to pick them up.

I used good smaller durable craftsman toolbags filled with wheel weights from the automotive shop I work for. The bags are less than $20 each and can hold 75-80 lbs each when packed full. Check with your local tire shop and I bet you can get their wheel weights for little to nothing.

Power jacks for sure! They make loading and unloading painless.

Builtforspeed, if you have the truck and budget to support it get a hard sided camper instead. The ease of not having to pop it up, the noise cancelling, and the extra options you can get in a hard vs soft sided make it well worth it. What kind of truck do you drive?

Yes a decent autoparts store will have a gauge. Some will even rent or loan for free basic special tools. Definitely start with a residual fuel pressure check first. You may have a issue with your fuel system bleeding off somewhere.

Can you specify what you mean by "taking a while to restart"? Is it cranking over at normal speed / or not at all for that time period? How long do you have to crank it before it starts? When it does start is it like you flipped a switch and now it runs great or does it chug and misfire during that time? Checking residual fuel pressure is where I personally would start as a generic test.

Yes just run the pumps about the same amount of time. If possible put your ballast intakes in the bottom of the boat so you can fill / drain on the fly for fine tuning.

Start with a diagnosis not a random part. Go out and buy a fuel pressure gauge and make sure you have good fuel pressure. Check and make sure you have good spark. Check plugs, wires, distributor and the coil. Spend some time to diagnose the problem. You may buy a few tools that will cost you less in the long run then tossing parts at an unknown problem.

For the smaller boat owners the new Colorado duramax is set to have a 7,700 pound towing capacity. And a unloaded fuel mileage over 30 mpg. If I didn't pull a fifth wheel I would definitely think about a new Colorado / Canyon crew cab for a new tow vehicle.

What other successful company quietly sells it's flagship model and then has the owner hide it until it is released. That seams like horrendous marketing to me. "Yeah I went in to the local Apple, Porsche, ..., whatever store. They had a brand new super awesome gizmo and they sold me one but I can't show it to you." Something seems very fishy to me.

It is great until you realize that you have a extra car cluttering up you garage for the next 15 years minimum. And now with a little girl due any day now how do I top a car for her first birthday??? Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

"Hot Rod" is a relative term right? The only project car I have around these days is my Son's first birthday present. It is a 88' VW Scirocco that will be 40 years old when he turns 16 and gets to drive it. We have just over 14 years to wrench on it together and turn it into a fun daily driver for him. As VW technician for many years it was a car that I figured would be fun to drive and very unique in another 15 years.

The time is finally drawing near to say good bye to my old Elite V. I have talked about upgrading for 4 years but it seemed like every time I wanted to upgrade something would come up and back burner it. In my new / newer boat search I am looking at a few V226's. Who can tell me what things have changed over the years between 2011-2014? I am leaning in the direction of a 2012 that fits my budget but don't want to be missing out on a feature or option of a 2014 for slightly more coin that makes it worth it. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Found this over on Facebook. RTIC coolers is taking reservations for their new product battling Yeti on price and function. I am on the list and will let you all know what the product is like as soon as it arrives. I know many others here are looking for a less expensive alternative to Yeti. http://www.rticcoolers.com/compare-rtic-45-to-yeti-tundra-45-cooler.html

You can but will slosh back and forth especially at wakeboard speeds

I had one in my non c4 elite v. It was too much bow weight in my opinion. You are better off with two smaller bags. But it does fit.

The ecm is looking for coinciding signals from the crank and "camshaft" sensors for top dead center and piston position for each cylinder. The camshaft signal is read from the distributor sensor. The camshaft position sensor is sending out incorrect position signals with that wrong wheel and the ecm doesn't know what to believe.

The regular black scorpion cap and rotor are like $35 from the dealer. The rotor you are looking for is $97 and no dealers seem to stocked it. Even after I bent my old hall sensor wheel getting the old rotor off I was able to straighten it out and put it on the way cheaper rotor. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk