wakeupnride

Most Centurions have the Cat Eye Navigation lights so I'm hopin someone here may know this. How do they come out?? They have two external screws, and those come out no problem. It seems as though something on the backside is holding them in. Unfortunatly on my boat I cant reach them from the compartments in the open bow. I don't know if there is a nut on the backside holding the whole thing on or what. I can pull from the exterior on both sides but they will bend if I pull any harder. All this for a burnt out bulb... My cameras shot so I got no pics.

Nice. I've seen similiar baffles on other thru-hull exhaust boats.

It appears that the exhaust tubes on SS are above the floor in the locker trunks. I've never seen one in person. So SS owners do you find they are in the way? Are they boxed in or covered some how? If not do they get hot?

The Tsunami was rad. I heard they only made a handful of those, but if I ever found one in good shape I'd be all over it.

If thats the only hang up I'm sure someone in the offshore powerboat market would have some experience to do some mod. I can't beleive its not made that way to begin with.

I was under the impression SS was like captains choice to go out the side or out the back. I guess that is not the case, but why are they not made that way?

If thats the case I'm in trouble. There is no way to reach them that I can figure. I think I'm going to order a new set so I can see whats on the inside. Maybe that will give me my answer.

I just replaced my water pump a year ago, and my boat is a 97. It had about 475 hours when I changed it. The engine wasnt overheating or anything, but the indicator was the pump was leaking water between it and the block and it started squealing. Also I personally dont change my impeller every year, but I look at it every year. If its in good shape there is no need to change it in my opinion. I always have a spare in the glove box.

Those are sweet.... I got a set of Domed numbers black outline and chrome.

I couldnt do 80° without my boat! Seriously this spring is crazy. It was snowing here all weekend and now Friday is going to be 60°. When I sold my last boat, I went without for 5 monthes- all of it off season and I still almost had to be sent to an institution.

I bought an Avalanche last year and I love mine. Congrats.

I have 3 batteries hooked to a 2 battery switch. My first battery is my starting battery. I keep it isolated from the other 2 which are connected parallel. I don't have any additional alt wires because that is done on the main cable. I usually just run the boat on position 2 so if I run the stereo too long I'm not left stranded. I also don't rely on my alt to charge the entire system so I turn the switch to both and connect to one of the batteries which will charge all of them. I rarely am out M-Thurs, but Friday afternoon I'm all charged up.

smitty, I can tell you with the switch (perko) style there is no extra connection to the alternator. I have three batteries in my boat on a switch and it works great, I'm just not experienced with the "no fuss" type isolater your talking about. In my mind though I can't see that it would be any different. I would think the isolater will charge both batteries continuously.

I don't know about big v drives but I was wakeboarding behind my boat 2 years ago. I looked down and we were going over a sand bar that we didnt know was there. I think it was about 2 feet deep. I quit breathing and I didnt say anything to my driver cause I didnt want him to stop. We made it unscratched thankfully. I started breathing again a few minutes later...

You never know what your gonna get when it comes to law enforcement opinions. I think they look great and they would need to be pretty bored to hassle you for that. That being said I've been hassled for a lot less.

Usually the alternater cable goes directly to the main cable connection by the starter. So adding a battery with a switch requires no other mods. follow your + cable on the floor to the engine you should find the alternator cable.

I did also have a snap on bow cover made this time last year and your right that does make a big difference. I don't think we used the heater at all last year because we had that.

Agree with you there....Beer goes with everything especially fiberglass. Here's a little tip when drilling. Run the drill in reverse until you get through the top layer of gel coat. Then switch it to forward to make your hole. This will prevent you from chiping the gel coat when the bit is cutting. Others like to mask off the area which will also help.

I've used the vinegar water combo for years and I cant stand the smell of that...

Sick board! So when does your new boat come in?

Always been a fan of black and blue. I think the reverse of that would be my pick.

Plumb, drill and screw the channels in the place you want them. The best spot to me would be at the bottom of the windsheild to keep out any extra breeze. Go make a trip to a dealer and look at how they're mounted. It doesnt matter what model it is. Malibu's have them too so check them out if its easier.

your probably out of luck. If you havent already call Fineline at 209-384-0255. If you cant find one build it....

Nate is right anything above the rub rail will get chalky quick if its under the sun all the time.

Universal towers such as the Monster Tower go on very easily. It gets a little trickier when you go to an OEM tower because everything has to be just right. Whatever route you take there is one thing I will caution you about- You do not want to tighten your bolts if the backing plate wont lye flush to the glass underneath. We had a little too much help on a freinds boat and a kid (who eventually became an engineer) overlooked a corner of a square backing plate that should of had the corner rounded off. That corner made a hairline spider crack on the topside when he tightend the bolts. Its just sixteen holes have some fun. I love the smell of freshly drilled fiberglass....