You would need to go into your rider profiles and set the bags to zero so they don’t fill. Or you could go to settings/ballast and adjust the full and drain times down to zero.

Thanks for the feedback.  It just drains the PnP.  I guess I don't understand why I can still have 3000 lbs on board but the PnP makes the difference!  It's not like exhaust comes out of the water.  Also, the engine runs on a closed system, does that make a difference with hydrolock?

If we have the ballasts full and then shut the engine off a message appears on the screen that counts down from 4 minutes until auto drain happens!  Is there anyway to turn that off?  It's annoying to have to fill again before continuing to surf.  

If we have the ballasts full and then shut the engine off a message appears on the screen that counts down from 4 minutes until auto drain happens!  Is there anyway to turn that off?  It's annoying to have to fill again before continuing to surf.  

If we have the ballasts full and then shut the engine off a message appears on the screen that counts down from 4 minutes until auto drain happens!  Is there anyway to turn that off?  It's annoying to have to fill again before continuing to surf.  

The Valterra valves are much better than the Drainmaster.  Much easier to open manually and have been less maintenance IMO.

Finally got rid of my carpet and replaced the old flooring with Gator Step.  Took a little time to get the template right but very pleased with the results.  

I found them up under the rear near the blower motor 

I am trying to find the connection/wires to plug in newly installed underwater lights.  I would think there is a plug or harness somewhere in rear.  Has anyone done this installation or know where to find the wire? 

Mine was leaking at the prop shaft seal.  Apparently I had the old type and they replaced it with a maintenance free one and no issues in the past 5 years.

Sorry i haven't been checking on this thread.  I have the 2012 233.  I got tired of lubricating them several times a season and still would get an issue now and then.  The new valves have been great.  Unfortunately the way my boat is constructed (and with the engine divider) the valves pretty much have to sit upright.  I know the old valves had to sit upright according to their instructions.

I went ahead and changed them out with the Valterra ones.  What an improvement, and something i should have done years ago.  I did have to use the flanges from the drainmaster valves because the ones that came with the Valterra ones were too big.  I also have to make something to protect the valve from pushing against the fat sac in the locker.

I am tired of replacing/maintaining the drainmaster QF valves, although I have got really good at removing and installing them.  Is this the upgraded version?  

Valterra EZ Valve Electric Waste Valve for RV Black Water Tank - 3" Hub to 3" Hub  Item # E

Thanks for the info.  I also found this http://www.ambil-yam.co.il/files/pdf/PCM_Diagnostic_manual.pdf that gives you all the fault codes for PCM.  Seems like the fuel was running too rich.  I changed the spark plugs and took it back out and so far it has corrected the fault.

While using the boat today I got an alarm and engine fault message on the screen... DTC 0175:LTFT 2 Low Limit

Has anyone had this before or knows what it means? I called PCM and they wouldn't help me because I wasn't a dealer.  

The problem sounds like the fill valve is stuck open. Had it happen on my friends Ri237. We would drive down the lake open the drain value and water was pouring out and didn't stop, I said there's no way it holds that much water and the front valve must be stuck open.

There a tab that attaches to the actuator and that tab had popped off. The old versions had the Allen key or the red handle. The fill valves are at the front of the engine compartment, the drain values are at the back. Two on each side. You will have to remove the side wall of the engine compartment to get to them. His were going up and down but the clip had popped off and not actually closing them. Hope that helps or let me know and I can direct you some more.

When one of mine stopped working and they replaced the LEDs themselves. One appears to have moisture in it now so I'm sure it will be on the way out soon.

Found it. The kill switch was corroded. Temporarily by passed it and all is back to normal - new switch on the way. Thanks for the suggestions.

I will check again but there were two I found up under there. 3 near the batteries and the 2 up under the dash. Key turns power on to blower etc so I assume the ignition switch is ok?

Yes I've done all the obvious stuff - I think. Flipped breakers several times and the small stuff comes on, the rpm gauge does its thing but no beep or nothing to touch screen or ignition button.

Just tried it and it didn't solve my issue. I don't even get the beep when I turn the key on.

So the boat ran fine over the weekend. Go to start it today and nothing. Blower, radio, will come on but touch screen and ignition/start are dead. Batteries say they are charged, even tried jumping and charging to make sure. All the fuses/breakers are correct. Kill switch is fine and its in neutral. Totally lost! It was just working the other day. Any ideas?

That is the gladiator tower. We tow our with it up but secure the Bimini in the boot if we are going over 45 mph.

They prevent some of the water from upcoming in, but if you are swinging around water is going to rush over the vents regardless. I like mine but don't buy them if you think they are going to stop water from coming in.

I didnt feel like the tape would hold so I used a few of the screws from the old covers. Just spray painted the heads so they were black. I drilled the holes in the new carbon covers to match the old screw holes so I didn't have to drill into the hull.