Jbuck

Thanks guys. Yah, I made them on a haas mill, then spent a few hours polishing. Not really looking forward to the job of removing the rubber pads though!

Finally finished my plates to replace rubber pads, pretty happy with them!

Anybody know if the centurion logo is trademarked? I know ski centurion is, but couldn't find any info on the helmet or the block style text.

I think it would be simpler to come up with something else but i always like the factory look.

Reason- I am making something for my boat that I am going to put the centurion text on so it matches. I think other people would be intrested in these as well so I was thinking of making more and selling. There are tons of people that have a trademark on the word centurion, everything from defense contractors to auto parts. I remember specifically a vehicle customizer called centurion. My boss, years ago, had a F350 that centurion built. I remeber it having a very similar helmet logo on it. My cousin had a buick centurion. I need to read up on trademarks and duplication.

I put a swivel under my seat, 03 elite same set-up as yours. It took some figuring though! I had to cut two aluminum plates one for top of adjuster and one for base of seat. The swivel has to be quite a ways off center in order for the seat to turn without hitting side of boat. I had the aluminum on hand, the swivel cost me $30-$40. Between the two aluminum plates I had to put a piece of UHMW that helps the swivel stay steady. I've had this set-up on for four years now and works great.

On my boat previous to the one i have now, was getting ready for a big trip and was servicing wheel bearings. When i took one of the drums off one of the linings on the shoe had broken up and torn up the drum. I hate surge brakes so while at the local trailer and axle shop, I discovered for around $340 I could walk out with loaded backing plates and new drums with bearings installed for electric brakes. Installation was super easy, just bolting backing plates and setting wheel bearings. The only thing that too a while was removing surge hitch and running wires. I like electric brake operation, so much smoother. I cant wait until the brakes get bad on my current trailer.

Would anyone post part numbers for the ram's they use factory. I am going to make my own plate but am having a hard time deciding which rams to use.

Most intresting thing I saw last summer was a guys boat that sank being recovered at the ramp. Had the ramp shut for nearly two hours. When i got to the dock the police were giving a sobriety test to the owner and had the entire ramp closed. The story that I got from some other people that were also trying to pull thier boat out was that the guy apparently put his boat in and was having trouble getting/keeping it running. He tied it to the dock when the sheriff was going by and stopped to talk to him(probably because his tags were expired). While the sheriff was talking to him his boat sank and they had to cut it loose from the dock so it didn't sink the dock. The guy got hauled off and all of us had to sit and wait while his boat was being recovered which was quite a show. Divers showed up and hooked a rope to the bow of his boat. The sheriff used his jetboat to pull the boat (still under water) as close to the ramp as possible. Then a towtruck connected to his trailer and backed it into water, connected a winch to boat and pulled it onto trailer. It was quite a show and everybody that had a boat in the water got to meet each other.

I used black 3m weather strip adhesive on mine, haven't had them peel yet. In the next month or so am going to machine some plates similar to the factory bling package though. I have never been happy with the look of the rubber ones.

X2 on the backer plate, That is the first thing I did to my boat as the screws were pulling out. I just cut some plates out of alum, bent them slighty to fit contour of the inside of lid. Sandwiched them between hinge and lid. The plates are much larger than the base of hinge. Epoxied the plates onto the bottom of lid, drilled holes in the original location. good as new.

Just guessing, never actually measured, but probably less than 20 degrees? It isn't what I would call a true adjustment as there is no hinge at transom so it just warps plate.

Pretty much looks like a must have, probably handy for land navigation as well.

just guessing but bad speedo/ no speed on PP sounds like a paddle wheel and or paddle wheel wiring issue. Both speedo and PP rely on paddle wheel for input, unless you have stargazer. My tach only reads correct about half the time, PP has a tach reading and that always reads correct most of the time my tach seems to read about twice what it should be. I have thought about replacing but never look at it anyway. Your paddle wheel should spin freely and smoothly. Most people tape paddle wheel when travelling on a trailer because its only lubrication is water and wind can spin it.

I've always used binding lube on mine

http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/boa/3144332480.html I guess the market is a little different up here, There was a 07 elite for 2700 that looked real clean. Looks like it sold.

x2 on the single 1100, I'm gonna get my 1100 next week and can't wait to try it out.I am going to add the vertical fin on mine as well. Have been really debating on the actuated wake plate though. If I add an actuator, gonna make a bigger wake plate as the one that I have now doesnt seem to make a big enough change to warrant an actuator. Would anyone that has an actuated plate think that adding it is very worthwhile?

x2 on the 119, My nephew was same age and almost identical weight when he started on his 119. He's still riding it at 11. He also learned to wakesurf on same board until we got him an actual surfboard.

Great mod, I'm going to do this asap. Always had a little ATF in bilge and always having to top off tranny. After some searching found this catch can and thought I would share http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170879421793&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Same boat as me, I have 2 750's on either side of motor and about 250 in lead mostly towards bow area. The 750's are way too much for wakeboarding but as far as surfing wish I would have bought an 1100 right out of the gate. As far as wakeboarding I only fill the 750's a quarter of the way and that is plenty. For surfing I fill one 750 on surf side locker and put the other under seats and part way under observers seat. It ends up only being about half full. Another 300 pounds in the rear locker would make a big difference in my opinion. If I could do it over again I would have bought two 250's one for none surfing side rear locker and one under side seats/observer seat and one 1100 for surf side locker. I would only fill this a little when wakeboarding.

Just keep in mind that alternators have a thing called a voltage regulator. When the alternator senses that the battery and electrical system voltage is low the voltage regulator sends power from alternator to electrical system. This is not to be confused with an amperage regulator.

My nephew first wakeboarded when he was five also. I got him the smallest wakeboard that hyperlite had and the bindings covered most of his shin. He first started out on a set of training skis for kids, The rope to the skis is not tied to the boat someone actually has to hold onto a handle as the rope is actually attached to the front of the skis. The trainer skis are sort of a sure thing to get a kid up. The big benifit of them is it builds confidence and gives a feeling of the balance involved. The biggest advice that I would give of starting a kid on a wakeboard is pull soft. My nephew only neded a slight pull to get up and it took me a while to figure out how little throttle was needed. When he got up I remember the speed only needed to be somewhere around 10 to 12 mile an hour. The biggest thing is patience for sure. In no time he will be ripping around.

I installed dual batteries on my boat and used a perko switch as well. I dont like the dual battery position and never use it. My thinking being the boat originally came with only one battery and alternator and wiring was only ever intended to charge more than one battery at a time. I'm sure that if both batteries were fully charged there may never be a problem, but if (worst case scenario) both batteries were nearly dead and boat barely started alternator and wiring that were intended to only charge one battery would be working twice as hard. My idea with the dual batteries in my boat is that I always have a backup to get me started. Every outing I switch from one to the other to keep them charged. just my .02

thanks, cee dee. I am going to build myself one and try some different sizes.

Ceedee, could you post a pic of your fin?