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h2oking since I am in Hawaii at this time I'll phrase it this way: You have way bigger Kahonies than me man. It would kill me to cut into my boat like that. Great mod and I'm sure they will be very useful.

I am considering installing some inline type mufflers on my Centurion Elite Bowrider direct drive. It is just straight pipe from the engine to out the back flappers. I was wondering if anyone else has done this type of modification and could pass on any advise. It looks to be fairly straight forward because due to my boat being a direct drive I have complete access under the floor to the exhaust system. I was just wondering if anyone has done this which product they chose and why. Also any tips on where to buy it from would be great as well.

It is noisey both in and behind the boat. I am going to insulate the motor box for sure to make it a little quieter in the boat. The real noise comes from the back when the exhaust isout of the water. You just really notice after you slow down and the wake catches you how much quieter it is. I just thought if there was a way to deaden the noise a bit when I am doing a slow cruise of 10kts or so. Not a huge deal but would make those relaxing cruises a bit nicer and allow me to hear the tunes.

Kevin It is a 2006 Elite Bowrider Air Warrior and yep that's my engine h2oking Thanks for all your info and help. I guess I don't need to buy mufflers. Tips maybe the way to go, I was even talking to Bill Baker of Bakes at the Seattle show last week.

As I mentioned in an earlier post my boat is deep in storage so I can't just go and check it out. I was looking at some photos I have and wondering if I actually do have built in mufflers. As I loog at the exhaust system in the photo the hose comes off the engine and then enters into a fibre-glass type shroud that flared out with the shape of a muffler. Are they built in and I just see them? I would think that they would be accessible? Call me stupid but is that what it is? It is in the lower left hand corner of the photos. Whoops gotta run the Olympic torch is coming by the house in a few minutes! Thanks again in advance.

WOW, So glad to hear that you are alright.

h2oking Thanks again for the info. I didn't realize that I would have to buy exhaust hose. I figured I would just see where I can fit them in and then cut out a section the hose I already have and place them in. Am I wrong in this thinking?

h2oking Thanks for the info. I am also curious how much heat they give off and if it would be a good idea to wrap in insulation or make sure they are suspended off the bilge and the floor? I am also curious if anyone has installed them and where they found was the best place to locate them.? I sort of imagine they are the diameter of a large 2l or 2 gallon soda bottle. Is this correct? Sure hope this works because it is cheaper than buying a bigger amp to hear the tunes.

Kevin, H20King , BigShow and others I didn't mean to start a fight between us Centurion owners and was just looking for advice on mufflers. I believe that my 2006 Elite Bowrider Air Warrior edition was built in California. It has been a good boat and I have noticed no more little nuances with it than my buddies have had with their Malibus etc. As I looked over my boat I don't believe it has any wood in it etc. Anyhow, it has been a great boat and if it didn't come with mufflers so be it and that is why I am asking now. It would be great if we could get this site back to the mission of supporting and informing our fellow Centurion owners. On that note does anyone know the exhaust pipe / muffler size that my boat with the Merc Black Scorpion 330 would require as my boat is deep in storage and not easy to get to. Thanks for all your input so far. Show I will send you a PM about the mufflers

I am looking at insulating the motor box on my Centurion direct drive. I was wondering if anyone has done this and if they could pass on what type of insulation they used. Any ideas of cheaper places to purchase would also be helpful. I know I can buy the marine stuff, however, it is quite expensive and have heard that other have used different materials. Thanks in advance.

Another good idea may be getting transom savers with Centurioncrew on them. I have one for my boat, however, had to buy it from the local Malibu dealer so it has their logo on it.

Mine was from 07 and it was a bad meter. If you want to test it just take it out and hook to a 12 volt battery and you should see it work. Another common problem is the ground gets loose behind the gauge.

I was at the Seattle Boat Show on Friday and chatting with a factory guy from Centurion. I was mentioning that I love my direct drive because I am more of a skier than wakeboarder. He was telling me that Centurion is in the process of testing a new 3 event ski boat at this time. He also mentioned that is quite a wild looking boat. I was wondering if anyone has seen it or if there are any spy photos out there.

I have seen both the cover that comes from Saskatoon Sask. at our local dealer and Cory's at Evolution. No comparison, Cory's is by far better as it is a very tight fit and great for trailer travel. The other from Sask. looks like just a mooring cover and may cause gel-coat damage if try and trailer with it. Last year was PP, this year I think it will be an Evolution Cover.

I really like these swim grid pads, however, with a teak like mine I guess I'm out of that one. Wake Surfer and boat cover would be my choice.

I was wondering how those of you that fill your engines with anti-freeze do it. I have always just drained my engine and then filled it via the large hose off the water pump. I remember though someone mentioning to me that they disconnect the hose off the top of the thermostat that leads to the riser. They hold it up and pour the anti-freeze through a funnel down this hose until they see some come out the exhaust flapper. I am just wonering if this is a better way to fill up the engine being that the hose entry to the riser is higher than the engine manifold. I have 2 hoses that come off the thermostat, one to the riser the other to the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Am I correct in thinking that the A/F will go down the riser thru the hose on the bottom of the exhaust manifold- thermostat housing - engine manifold and then down into the block and then when it is full it will fill up the rest of the riser and then out the exhaust flapper. Here is a photo of my engine

SVS I did read that thread earlier and tried to make one for my boat, however, with the direct drive, there is not enough room between the intake and the raw water pump. I am still using the Fake-A-Lake until I can come up with a new plan. Yea the snow was great, it was nice to get home to Van where it was +17c. I did catch the Flames game at Flames Central downtown. great place to watch a game. Very passionate fans.

Thanks for the info. I also blew out the heater hoses both directions and filled with A/F. I then as mentioned filled the block via the large water pump/ circulating hose. I am just wondering if doing it that way will get A/F into the engine manifold or if I should fill some more via the hose that goes to the riser. My theory is that when I hold it up it is higher than the top of the engine. I will do it nexy year as you have mentioned above. P.S SVS I was in your fair city yesterday and really enjoyed the snow!

surfthis Wow, what a great set up. I am extremely jealous. My garage is about 18 inches short or else I could put mine in straight. Thought about keeping it in all winter, however, then the cars have to sit outside. Oh well off to staorage it goes. As far as the winterizing goes I would recommend that you do it. The freezing is only a portion of why you winterize, the other is due to the boats inactivity. I would suggest that you fill the engine and heater hoses with an R/V anti-freeze to help prevent corrosion. Even though you drain the engine there is still a chance of some small pockets of water that will start to rust over the winter. I would also consider fogging each cylinder as well to prevent pitting in the cylinders. I just remove each spark plug and spray a bit of fogging spray in each cylinder as some one turns the fly wheel with a wrench. Of course fuel stabalizer does not need explanation. Put it in with final fill up and make sure you run the engine with it in and mixed up. (Drive home from gas station will do this). Again, awesome garage!

I use a transom protector for my boat. They cost about $60. Mine came from a boat dealer near my house, however, I have seen on Malibu Crew that they have done group buys on them. May be a good idea to do the same on Centurion Crew.

I drove by the Langley Costco the other day and they had some Centurions on display in the parking lot. I was confused because I knew that Breakwater and not Galleo Marine had a display there. It makes sense now that they are a new dealer. Good news for us in the Vancouver area.

Since reading this thread I am also thinking about doing something with respect to the noise of my boat. I have a direct drive and am considering either some inline silencers or the silence exhaust tips. I think I am laning toward the inline option due to the ease of installation (with a DD I believe I would have to take out the rear fuel tank to access the exhaust tip connection). I was wondering if anyone has installed the inline type and could comment further. Also curious if anyone knows off hand the size of the 2006 Centurion Elite (330hp) exhaust hoses, 3", 3 1/2", 4"?

Joe B Thanks for posting a link to that thread. I have a direct drive so my setup will a little different. I will have to install a ball valve between my intake and hose adapter though because my 06 Air warrior didn't come with one. I have a great one that is factory installed for my ballast tank intake, however, not the raw water intake. I was wondering if anyone has installed one and if it is very difficult?

I have always used a "Fake-A-Lake", however, I am contemplating rigging up a system like this to make my winterizing easier. I don't have a ball valve at my raw water intake which I think is a good idea anyhow. I was wondering if any other Crewmembers have come up with something similar.

Rope Thrower It is really not that hard. Here is what I do. It is abit of overkill, however, lets me sleep all winter. If it is colder in your area you can use straight anti freeze and just leave the anti freeze in the block and don't drain it after. These are my steps: - Change oil and filter - Warm up boat until thermostat opens. Shut it off and attach the fake a lake to a large ( 5 gallon) bucket with a tap in the bottom with RV Anti freeze which I place above on the swim grid . I then open the tap and start the engine and wait until I see red out exhaust ports and shut the engine off before bucket empty. I built the bucket for my stern drive and it works like a charm. - Drain all the water/anti freeze from the engine via the little blue plugs - Use a funnel and pour R/V anti freeze into heater lines. - Undo ballast intake line and place in R/V anti freeze bottle and pump some into bladder, the pump it all out and anything left should be anti frezze - I then pull each plug one at a time, put a little oil/fogging spray down each cylinder (5-6 drops), then with a wrench turn the flywheel a few times to lube up the cylinders. Replace the plug and move on to the next cylinder. (Much easier with a second person to turn while you spray) - Don't fog the intake if you are EFI as it will screw up the sensors, use the above method. - Lube all the throttle/ gear linkages - I then put a ziploc bag around the air-intake and seal it on with tape to prevent moisture or dust getting in. - Steam clean all carpets I store my boat in a barn all winter. It is dry, however, not heated. Temp rarley gets below freezing, however, it is very damp all winter. Good Luck