peytont

I considered going the custom sac route but the battery and fuel lines would have to be moved. It just seemed easier with two seperate sacs. I'll try the 155 on the swim deck. I might just buy some lead weight and put some up front on the port side, pro vs. cons. of doing this? Seems like I'm pretty well maxed out unless I start putting sacs on the seats which I don't like doing. If you guys ever get down this way look me up. I would love to hear what other say about my typhoon's wake.

Here is what I've done already. I've got 1100lbs in the rear port locker, 370lbs under the port seat and usually fill up the 250lb stock center tank. Where and how can I get more ballast on board that is hidden. Should I plumb another 370lb sac to fit in front of the one that is already installed? I think I should concentrate on getting more weight up near the bow. What sacs work well under the port side bow seats? This is for a 2008 typhoon.

My surf board blew out of it's rack this past weekend and it landed on the back seats and cut two small slits in our new seats. What the best thing to put on the cuts to keep the from getting worse besides duct tape.

I can second that. 1579 prop and IS squirt are the ticket behind the typhoon with 1100lbs in port lockerm 370lbs under port seat and 250 center tank full.

thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot.

The bilge pump on our new boat finally came on over this past weekend and then never shut off. I've looked and can't see any debris clogging it. Anybody have any suggestions?

I'm trying to make my factory ballast puppy reversible and still use the aerorater pump. I bought a 7 pin switch and I'm trying to install it. Anybody have a wiring diagram for the 5 pin so I can figure put what goes where.

Yes, I need a 7 prong switch. My stock 250lb port side hard tank has been replaced with a 1100lb fat sac. Right now I only fill with the stock ballast puppy and empty with the stock aerator. With the new switch and a couple check valves I could use BOTH the stock aerator and "newly wired" reversible ballast puppy to empty the 1100lb fat sac, I think? My drain times would be much faster. To help with the fill times I'm ditching the stock sprinkler valves for a manifold with manual gate valves and eventually at some point adding another reversible pump.

Sorry I don't think I asked the question the correct way. With the new 7 prong switch installed can you also use the same switch to run the aerator pump to empty the ballast also? Stated another way: using the new 7 prong switch will enable me to reverse the ballast puppy and turn on the aerator pump? its confusing, stated one more time: I install the new 7 prong switch, I flick the switch to empty, can I wire said switch to reverse the ballast puppy and turn on the aerator pump connected to a fat sac at the same time?

Duffy if you still have the switches I would like them. Paypal okay? I had no idea you could switch the stock ballast pump to make it reversible that is great news. I love this website. My question for the wiring gurus now is: when you hit "empty" on the switch can you make the pump reverse AND turn on the stock aerator empty pump?

I plan on having a similar ballast set up as cjohnson's. I already have a 1100lb sac which replaced the hard tank in the aft port side. I plan on adding a reversible pump and another sac under the port side seat. How big can I go under the port side seat? 580 or 370? This is for a 2008 typhoon.

I've never even used ours on our typhoon. Why and how should I be using it? We mainly surf and wakeboard. For those uses it makes no sense to have it down at all. What am I missing?

super helpful. I love this website. I will look next time I'm out at the lake. Thank you. My dealer had no idea how to help me! so if I have a short somewhere how do I go about finding it? I have no idea about these things. The power for the bow lights is two wires running up to the bow where they split into a "Y". From the "Y" two wires run to the port side and two to the starboard. Is the short somewhere between the "Y" and starboard light? All the lights work when the bulb for the starboard side is either burned out or removed.

I have two problems both concerning the same boat, its a 2008 typhoon with 15 hrs on it: i) So one of my bow nav lights is out, the green one on the starboard side. I put in a new bulb and it keeps tripping the fuse. All the other lights work fine with the bulb out but I put in a new bulb on the starboard side and it keeps tripping the fuse. I check the connection with my electrical meter and it blows the 250v internal fuse on the meter! I have no idea about anything electrical, what is going on here? ii) My analog speedometer is so far out of calibration even with the adjustment knob turned all the way counterclockwise it still reads 10-15mph to fast. The perfect pass speed registers correctly. Do they run off the same paddle wheel? What should I be looking for to fix the problem. Thanks for the help.

some good ones. keep them coming.