EnzoSurfer

Good times! Weather was great, about 112 to 115 cool degrees, lol 1450lb Enzo sac at 10mph, 4 adults and 5 kids running around, starting to get it dialed in. Now I have to learn how to surf, doh

Hey Kappsized, I have the same setup. The drain pump is at the rear bottom of the bag and the drain line exits higher than the bag. I know the bag is full when water comes out the vent line from the top of the bag. I haven't seen the bag drain out the drain line except when the pump is on, unless you push down on the bag. I bet its coming out the vent line. You can put an inline ball valve on the drain line but be carefull that your pump does not come on with the valve closed, it could lead to a ruptured bag. Hope this helps

Colors are awfull, lol nice ride!

Hey Wildeman, I have an 06 with the same problems. They seem typical as far as I'm concerned. I had to remove all hardware and countersink all the holes, it seems they missed that part of the installation. I have a slight crack on one of my gas fills and they seem to show up around the holes drilled for the screws. The foot steps will show corrosion but they can be cleaned with metal polish. When I had them removed I tried to buff them out thinking they were straight aluminum but they seem to have a brushed chrome plating. Other than that its been a rock solid boat and I wouldn't hesitate to pick it up. Things I would be more concerned with would be the running gear and hull. You can tell if the guy took care of it if there aren't any scratches on the bottom from running it up on the beach......one of my peeves. Throw in an Enzo Sac and you are ready to surf! Good luck.

I don't know, I haven't seen an ugly boat on a trailer here yet! Sweet rides guys.

On the Enzo Sac, You might want to extend the stock wiring on the drain pump. Last trip out the sac filled and pulled the pump wires out of the butt splices. Easy fix but it did blow a 20a fuse. Anyone else using the sac have a problem with bending the plastic engine compartment separator? Mine fills up and wants to shove it towards the engine. I am looking at reinforcing the door. Any ideas?

That sounds like a great trade in value!! A four year old boat, thats got to be close to what you paid for it eh?

Hey Kevin, that's the way the make em due to their tightening system. I did get the zip on skirt that completely covers the rear and the swimstep and can be removed for towing. I am still not big on towing with a cover but this one looks like it will do the job with no damage. The old cover (grey) leaked and pooled water. This one is so tight it should just bead off. Plus you can't forget the cool factor, lol

Hey MANDC, I was having the same problem with the rope right at the rub rail due to the tight fit. After tugging and pulling on it I was able to get the rope to ride under the rail. I also adjusted the rubrail clamps. I moved them more towards the centerline of the cover so the edge of the cover with the rope had more room to grab the rail. This also tightened the cover side to side. Hope that made sense. I will be home Friday to get you those pics, later

Hey PaSmithy, do you have a breakdown of all that was done for the 20/50 hour service? I hear ya ladderrat, that's why I do oil/filters/impellers myself. Gone are the days of working on your motor without a full NASA control center.

Well I just received my Rankin cover after 12 weeks from the group buy from PlanetNatique. This was the first group buy I have been involved in and the wait time was a little long but I guess that's the norm for group buys. All I can say is WOW! This thing fits like a glove. The only problem if you can call it that is the placement of 2 of the rear straps. I only have one small centered grab handle (see pic). I think it will work just fine. Not bad for a cover made 2 states away. Cost was $655, $25 for shipping and $75 for the extra zip on transom cover. Let me know if that helps you out

Hey all, Just tried out the Babe's products and have to say that the Spot Solver for water spots and Boat Bright have to be the best products that I have tried. The Spot Solver even worked on a crusty old window that gets the sprinkler every other day! No more razor blades to the windows...woohoo! Boat Bright went on and off easy and I can't believe the shine, and yes they smell great. On the engine....try Pledge Furniture polish in the spray can. It's like WD40 without the nasty smell and it will keep the water spots away. I used to use it on the floors, stringers and anodized aluminum on my flatbottom and its fast and leaves a great shine. I have even heard of some using on the whole boat but I wouldn't go that far.

Just give it light taps with a hammer to the head of the bolt, re-tighten and tap. But be ready to catch it, it comes off fast! As far as lube, the only thing I would put on there is a very light coat of anti-seize. Careful that stuff gets everywhere. Permatex Anti-Seize

2006 SV230 and it has 2 small drain holes in the rear corners and yes they drain onto the carpet of the storage lockers. If there is enough water then it will make its way back to the large holes for the front slinky vent pipes. Now I have to find some flush mount fittings to connect to the holes for the tubing. If anyone has ideas for fittings let me know and I'll see what I can come up with. Wet towels and moldy carpet are no fun.

How about hooking up two 3/8" hoses from the drain holes back to the 2 large slinky air duct holes in the mid deck/storage area. These hoses would then drain into the center bilge area. The distance is minimal and I dont know why its not a factory install. I was thinking of hooking this up after the same problem Hiflyer is having.

Very clean install, nice job! Looks alot cleaner then the FAE, I know we are talking 2 different animals here. Any drop in mph?

Yep we use it the same way. Put a towel over it to make the ice last longer. Oh and just a note, Rockstars/Monsters will explode in there when its over 100 (end of day, ice is gone). No damage just dirty water, lol

That is one awesome pic canuck! Great looking boat, I like the flake

Thanks Doc, will try it out this week. Should I also fill the stock starboard tank? Move someone to the front port side? Any suggestions/help would be appreciated, thanks

Hey Dizastical, I hear a beep when I am in neutral and unlock the throttle and give it a rev to about 2000 rpm. The vdrive light is on which says not to operate if light stays on over 1200rpm, but this is sitting still. Don't know if this is the same beep you are hearing but this is the only beep I have heard. Let us know what you find out

It would depend on if you ran it dry and if you sucked up anything from the lake. Any change in temperature you should check it. For a 35 dollar part and peace of mind a yearly change would be good.

Just changed out the impeller in my Black Scorpion. Not really too bad. There was more space than I thought. Release the tensioner for the belt. Remove the hoses from the water pump. Remove the fuel filter bracket and lean the the filter assembly to the side. Remove the water pump. Remove the plate on the pump and remove the impeller with puller or 2 flat screw drivers making sure not to gall the housing. (hardest part) Lube the new impeller and shove it in. Reassemble in reverse order. Tips 1. Have a long tool grabber on hand for the spacer you are going to drop from the back of the fuel filter bracket. 2. Have some soft material to kneel on cuz that carpet is like sandpaper after an hour. 3. Get some spare hose clamps for the one that you over tighten and bust. After completing this replacement I realized its probably one of those repairs that the shops can claim to the not so mechanically inclined that "its a real bear to get to" but in fact its a very simple job. It should be on the "I can do this myself list"

It is the same concept as an adjustable cavitation plate on a flatbottom which uses a handle control or foot pedal. Use a straight edge from the bottom of the boat to make sure both sides are aligned equally in case the turnbuckles are slightly different lengths. I would say the most adjustment would be 1/2 to 3/4 inch total from top to bottom. For the flats we would adjust it to set at full speed without porpoise. Full down pedal to take off and then slowly off the pedal to max up plate for the set. My opinion is that the plate on the centurions is for full speed set due to weight variations and not so much for wake control. Set too far down and the bow will be low and decrease speed, set too far up and the boat will porpoise at speed. So you will have to play with it for the best ride with your boat.

Thanks Loc, don't know about all flake, then you would have to put Ranger on the side! lol