atk1721

I thought that it angled toward the back as well but I called wake makers and they said that it doesn't matter with the impeller pumps when used for draining. They said the angle is not severe enough to make a difference. It works for me but someone with more experience with ballast can say which way is better if you are going to redo it all anyway.

Chenige, my pumps are located forward of my bags (toward the bow). I placed my fat sac bags so that the fill/ drain hole is toward the bow end. I originally ordered 90 degree connectors but had to exchange them for straight ones. My bags drain fully because when the water gets near the bottom, the pump pretty much vacuum packs the bags taking all the water and air out. I think what you are saying is that the 90 degree connectors that you have cause a twist at the connection point and when the water gets low it sucks part of the bag which blocks the hose. Hope this helps

Thanks for all the advice. I was planning on installing one reversible impeller pump and connect it to a bosworth Y valve. From the valve to the sacs in each locker. I am currently using a tsunami pump that I throw overboard with 1100 fatsacs. I was hoping to use the drain plug in the center for a quick install. I barely get a chance to surf because we do all the kids stuff first. If I have to drill one hole, I may as well drill two and put one pump for each bag. Thanks again

I have a 2005 Avalanche with just the center stock ballast. I want to add sacs for the rear lockers. I have what I thought was a pre drilled hole in the hull for a ballast pump. A friend of mine told me it is the mid drain plug which is common with centurions. I did not even know it was there and always just remove the rear drain plug. Can I use The mid drain plug for a fill port for setting up rear sacs? Thanks in advance for your help

Thank you very much.

I have been getting lots of conflicting info on various amps and I don't know what the ratings on the box mean. Can someone please help clarify this for me. I had an amp that I need to replace because it stopped working. I need to power one pair of exile sxt65q speakers. They are 4 ohms, 125 rms and 300 peak. I was using an exile sm400.4 which was 50x4 at 4ohms, 70x4 at 2 ohms. It was connected by bridging them. I was told that the amp was way under power and I was only getting 100 watts per speaker. The sales person recommended that I buy an MTX audio TM904-B. The box says 45x4 at 4ohms, 75x 4 at 2ohms and 150x2 bridged at 4 ohms. It seems to me this amp has less power. At another store the sales guy told me both of the above mentioned amps are too weak and he recommended a Rockford fosgate P400x4. The box says 50x4 at 4 ohms, 100x2 at 2ohms and 200x2 at 4 ohms bridged. Aren't all of these about the same power? At 200x2 at 4 ohms bridged is that 200 watts per speaker or does that mean the speakers share 200 and each speaker gets 100 watts? Will either of these amps powerful enough? Thanks for any help.

I'm just ordering my FAE. I have a non adjustable trim tab like Poosie and a fiberglass platform. Is it better to go with the platform mounts or have them make up mounts to attach it to my trim tab? Poosies install looks clean but it's the only one I've seen mounted like that. FAE company said they said can make mounts if I send them pics and measurements. Thanks in advance for your opinions.

True, except the mechanic told me it was not running hot and that it was just a faulty sensor. He even told me to run the boat until the part came in. That's why it was a shocker that they checked the cooling system and did the impeller. Oh well, the boat is running well and the beeps are gone. Thanks for the replies

Last time it was 120.00 in labour to do the impeller. Im just thinking that they did not need to check the whole cooling system

I had a beep beep every minute for about 7 minutes and then it would stop. It was only happening on the first cold start of the day. I read all the posts but I do not have a diagnostic tool to test it or clear the codes. I figured it was the sensor on the top of the engine near the throttle cable like most of you guys said. I have a black scorpion engine. I took it in thinking it was a going to cost somewhere between 100-125.00 for the part plus labour. It ended up being 125.00 for the part and 35.00 for an impeller and 330.00 in labour. They changed that sensor but they also took apart the impeller housing to see if there was any issues in there. They changed my impeller while they had it open. It makes sense to change the impeller if its open, except for the fact that they changed my impeller 4 months ago when I got the boat summer ready. I guess checking the system is being cautious on the part of the mechanics but do you guys think it was necessary. Did I get worked over ?

Hey BigWill Sorry it took so long to reply. I just hooked it up yesterday that way and it works great.

Great thanks Wylie.

The CL-RLC line control came with the following instructions. Connect the yellow 12V power wire to the battery and the red 12V wire to the ignition. Ground the black wire to the battery. I was thinking that I would like it to only be powered up when the stereo is on so that it is not constantly drawing battery power. I also have a switch to turn the stereo on when the boat is not running. So I was wondering if I this would work, ground the black wire to the battery, connect the yellow 12V to the yellow from the head unit which runs to my battery selector switch and then run the red wire to the amp remote line. Also can anyone give advice on where you installed the knob. Thanks in advance