Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Best

  • Rank
    Fresh Fish

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Boat
    Centurion Ri217
  1. http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/12126-engine-stalls/&tab=comments#comment-162273
  2. Hi all! My Centurion Ri237 with a zr409 engine began to stall every time the accelerator was reset from slow to neutral. this often happens when mooring, or when selecting a rider. Usually after that it starts easily. Sometimes you have to twist for a long time to start, as it floods the spark plugs. No power loss or uneven operation is observed. Currently replaced spark plugs, high-voltage wires, throttle. Any thoughts on this topic are welcome, thanks in advance!
  3. Thanks for support. Problem solved. All the fault was incorrectly selected anodes. They were installed too deep into the exhaust manifold and blocked the water passages from cylinders #7 and #8. Because of this, the collectors did not receive local cooling, a vapor lock was created and the water in the collectors began to boil. Installing conventional plugs in place of the anodes solved the problem.
  4. Too bad no one has replied in such a long time. You talked to yourself. You can email me for urgent matters. I'll be happy to advise. Remast @ internet .ru
  5. Hello! Sensors differ in length and seating. You need to measure the length of the working part of the sensor. Go to the website of the spare parts supplier and choose the appropriate option there according to the photo.
  6. Hello! If still relevant for you, describe the problem in more detail. Was there no error notification prior to maintenance? The boat interface does not allow you to diagnose trouble codes?
  7. Unfortunately I can't attach a photo. I have the same brackets, implying the ability to quickly remove or put the platform. Over time, they loosened up due to the constant impact of the waves on the bottom of the platform. I have never taken advantage of the quick platform release feature. I did not complicate the design, and made new brackets from a strip of AISI 304 stainless steel. The brackets are common, as for large bookshelves. For a year of active use, there were no complaints.
  8. It probably doesn't matter to you anymore. In any case, all errors of this kind need to be double-checked. Understand whether the malfunction is one-time or systematic. What you are describing sounds like a limit switch failure on one of the dampers. It is also possible that the damper jams after a long period of inactivity. When parking for a long time, ramfill sashes must be lubricated with a special lubricant that does not destroy rubber. Do not use penetrating sprays such as "WD-40" or oil based lubricants as this will cause the seals to swell and you will not be able to close the damper again after opening.
  9. It is necessary to remove the electrical connector for the power supply of the damper and check whether plus and ground are supplied to it. The opening and closing of the damper is controlled by changing the polarity on the connector. If there is no power and polarity reversal, then you need to check the wiring, control unit and switch. If power is supplied and the polarity is reversed, but the damper still does not work, then you need to remove it, disassemble and check the limit switches inside the housing. If you do not have a voltage indicator at hand, then you can connect wires to this damper from the opposite damper that is working.
  10. No, vaporization is not visible. Everything in the engine compartment is good and dry. The risers are a little warm on the move, but when I walk under load they become a little hot, you can hold your hand for a long time, they don’t burn. The temperature of the water in the unit does not rise above 75°C. Previously, the engine temperature was raised to 80-82°C with two different thermostats. I opened the thermostat forcibly to rule out a malfunction of the two thermostats, but this only delayed the occurrence of the error. If you ride without a thermostat, the error does not occur, but the engine does not warm up above 56 ° C.
  11. I have a PCM ZR409 engine, version without antifreeze (water circulates in the block and manifolds). The problem started two years ago. The symptoms are the same as here: http://www.centurioncrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/11155-fault-codes/ Also errors SPN: 441, 442. This year, after reopening, first these errors were issued even at idle. After replacing the impeller and thermostat, the problem began to appear only on the go under load, as in the past two seasons. When I ride a wakeboard, or when I go with a left wave for a surfer (the load is more), I get errors on overheating of one or two collectors. Occurs after approximately two minutes of wakeboarding or five minutes of surfing. At the time of the error, the emergency mode is activated for a short time, after a few seconds of reset, the power itself is restored. This is enough for the wave to break and the rider to fall. But if the engine is turned off at this moment, the water circuit starts to go crazy: it makes sounds of hissing or gurgling in the area where water enters from the v-drive into the thermostat housing, and pressure drops in the cooling system are felt on all soft hoses, video How soft hoses twitch and shrink for a second. As if the water boils in the hoses for a second, then it does not boil for two seconds, and history repeats itself. After ten seconds of idling - everything is fine until I again give the load. The following work was carried out: replacing the impeller assembly with the housing, replacing the thermostat assembly with the housing, checking all the hoses, flushing the engine and transmission heat exchangers, flushing the manifolds with acid (now they shine like new inside), replacing the emwt sensors, checking the v-drive on object of contamination. Can exhaust risers affect overheating in this way? Has anyone encountered such a problem?
  12. Hello! First you need to get access to the intake flaps, and see if they rise or not. If one of the dampers does not rise, check whether the damper handle and the electric drive lever are engaged. Try to open the damper manually, having previously disconnected it from the electric drive. If everything is in order with the intake flaps, check if the drain flaps are closing. It will be difficult for you to understand what's what without pictures. I recommend looking online for videos of ramfill dampers in operation, then you will have a visual representation of what they look like and how they work. Please post your test results and I'll try to help.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy..