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Found 9 results

  1. Anyone ever use the Sierra 18-8926 impellor in their Centurion? Seems to have good reviews and easy to get, so thought I'd reach out. thanks
  2. I would like to replace the oil filter and impeller on my 2005 Centurion C4 Avalanche V-Drive. Does anyone know how I find the correct part numbers for each? Thanks!
  3. My 2014 SV233 pulled up debris from lake Powell and the impeller quit working. We pulled large amounts of small wood debris out of a heat transfer area on the lower starboard side of the engine. There is no pre-installed water filter on the boat! I had a local dealership change the impeller and put a filter in the intake hose where it is easy to clean. Shouldn't this filter have already been installed? If yours does not have it, consider installing one ASAP. Save your trip before it is ruined.
  4. Hi all, I recently purchased a 2005 Lightning C4. It came with the center ballast. I'm looking at adding another pump & run a y-fitting to both rear bags. For those that models similar to my year/model Centurion, where are your reversible pumps located?
  5. Recently purchased a 2002 centurion eclipse only has 230hours on the motor. boat is in great shape in all aspects but took the boat this past weekend and noticed an unusual overheating issue. Boat ran absolutely great first time I had it out a couple weeks ago. This past weekend I took it on Saturday to a cove where we would have everyone meet up at and camp. I parked the boat for most of Saturday. Sunday morning when the lake was like glass decided to take the boat out, after about 5 minutes out the audible warning started going off, I looked down at the temp gauge and it was all the way past 220. I shut the motor off waited about 5 minutes and restarted the boat, temp had leveled out so I drove it back to the cove very slowly around 5-10mph and the temp maintained well. After a few hours I went out to the boat and turned it on and let it run in the cove for about 15 minutes at idle, I opened up the engine cover made sure there was nothing in there that could be causing issues, couldn't see or feel anything. After 15 minutes boat still maintain good temp, oil PSI was perfect and the boat sounded great. Later on in the day we wanted to do some tubing so we tried taking the boat out, as soon as I gave it some throttle to get up to speed I could see the temp gauge rising rapidly and got almost to audible warning temp again, so I backed off and called it a day. I had to cruise back to the docks which was about 7 miles away, I cruised the boat the entire way at about 10mph and the temp was perfect the whole way there. I have heard of the impeller and thermostat causing similar issues but usually the opposite of my situation as it would overheat at idle but level out with throttle. So trying to see if anyone has a similar experience and can point me in the right direction, I will change the impeller regardless because who knows the last time it was changed. But any other information would greatly be appreciated, as we have another weekend planned and I would like to actually enjoy the boat this time. THANK YOU!!
  6. I was going to order up an impeller for my s226 but need to know the part #. Was hoping to get one without removing the existing to find out?? Anybody know what impeller the Crusader 405 6.0L takes?
  7. All summer, I would hear the loud squeal of a slipping belt. Slight increase in engine temp. If I throttled down then back up, the squealing stopped and temp returned to normal. Somewhat annoying, but didn't occur enough to stop our boating fun. Verified that it was the impeller pulley that was preventing the belt from turning. The other day, the squeal started and did not stop. Alarms sounded for engine overheat as the temp climbed to 220+. this happened several times in a 2 hour outing. read all the posts that I could find on this forum, and they all indicate a bad impeller. Bought a new (Mercruiser, not seirra) impeller and housing, and a new serpentine belt. Installed all parts and tested in the driveway (on a fake-a-lake). Worked fine for a couple of minutes, but then the loud, continued squeal. Took off the belt, and the impeller was stuck again. Was able to turn it by hand (very difficult) then it freed up. It seems that the impeller is getting 'flipped' in the housing - meaning that the fins get curled in the wrong direction and the tension on the belt is not enough to turn the pulley with enough force to 'flip' the fins in the rights direction. Though the belt is on as tight as it should be. Not sure what else to do. Don't want to take it to a shop, because they will just recommend replacing the impeller. Any experience or suggestions are appreciated! '99 Centurion Elite V-Drive, Black Scorpioin
  8. I just wanted to post the information I posted on the old Centurion owners forum. I have been out of the country for the last 2 years and did not know about this site as I was still using the older one. I posted the process for replacing the impeller on the 5.7 Mag MPI motor in my 2004 Avalanche and it included pictures etc. So, here it is. Location: The impeller is located in the rear of the boat just behind and under the fuel pump. Step1: If applicable you will need to remove your hard tank if there is one in this locker, otherwise, it is going to be a PITA (pain in the @ss). Step2: Optional remove the bolts/nuts holding the fuel pump in place, I did not remove or move the fuel pump on mine. Takes a little extra struggle with hoses etc. to get them disconnected, but can be done. Step3: Remove the 2 hoses from the rear of the impeller housing. Step4: Remove the bolts holding the impeller housing from the engine block and bracket. Step5: Now that all bolts are removed you will need to manuever the housing out from the engine compartment. The easiest way for me was to turn the housing as shown in the picture and then slide it into the locker. Step6: Remove the remaining bolts from the housing and then remove the impeller housing cover. Step7: Remove the old impeller, you will need to use some pliers or something to get it out. It is in there tight. Step8: Install new impeller and gasket Reverse all previous steps above and you should be back up and running. The whole process should take no longer than a couple hours and that is if you don't know what you are doing. Otherwise, it is about a 30 -45 minute job once you have done it a time or two.
  9. Hey all, hoping for a little feedback here. I changed my impeller out today just because it had been two seasons since the last one was changed. I'm thinking it had about 80 hrs on it. The old one was still intact, but had some cracks starting to form on the vanes. I followed all of the instructions I've found on this forum to complete the task, and everything went according to plan. Hooked up the fake a lake after completion, and water was coming out the exhaust with no visible leaks around the pump or hoses. So then I take it down to the lake for the first surf of the season, and it overheats at the dock right after put in. Huh, I think. There's no way I put that thing in backwards, I quadruple checked to make sure I put the new impeller in the same way as the old. There shouldn't be any blockages internally since the old one was intact, and the boat ran great last season. Am I missing something? The only thing I can do is pull it out again and actually put it in the other direction. But.....how do I know the right direction unless I just put it back in the other direction, put it all back together, haul it to the lake and try it again. The direction of rotation of the pump looked like counter-clockwise if its sitting on the bench and I'm looking at the impeller. If I put it in backwards the first time, would my fake a lake somehow push enough water past the pump to come out the exhaust? Now that I think about it, the water from the fake a lake seemed to surge a bit.....lots of water coming out, then not as much and so on. I only ran it about 3 or 4 minutes and figured since I was seeing some water at the exhaust I was good to go. Help??
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